10654536400 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Motor from Part Select was 185W instead of 260W that came out of unit. After a bit of searching online, I found out the 260W had been obsoleted for lack of torque when harvesting ice.

Removal instructions: Unplugged fridge. Then I removed the screw on the bottom right rear of the unit. Then removed the plastic cover that covered the power connector. Pulled out the icemaker by pushing in the tab on the bottom left middle of the icemaker unit and pulling unit toward me. Unplugged the connector on the back right hand side. Removed the cover on the left side covering motor. Took out 3 philips screws and removed old motor with broken axle that spun freely (the source of the clicking noise). Put new motor in aligning harvest arm (the thing with the fingers) and did reverse of removal. Then plugged fridge back in and it started a harvest and the next morning I had a half tub of ice.

The easiest thing to do was pull the ice make off. After taking the 3 screws out of the wall of the freezer, take a screwdriver (flathead) and push on the tab for the electrical plug and wiggle the cord out. Then you can take 3 screws out for the main cover and another 2 screws on the next cover. There's the part, pop it out and replace holding pins and start the process of putting back together the opposite way you took it apart.

Was very confused when the part sent out looked nothing like the one it would replace. There was a note in the package saying that this would replace it but I was doubtful. Suggest that it be made very clear that this is an upgraded part to replace a bad design.Had not problem once i checked the website and found this to be correct replacement part. I didn't have any problem with the order of the crusher blades as once I removed the shaft nut I slid all of the parts in order onto the awl. Then it was a simple matter of sliding them off of the awl onto the auger shaft. The new metal auger works much better than the plastic one it replaces.

Unplug the refrigerator. Snap off the ring surrounding the dispenser from the bottom. There are two slots on the bottom. This is the toughest part of the repair because my refigerator is older and the part stuck. Then unscrew the two hex screws and unsnap the parts, then reassemble with the new parts. Snap the ring back on and you're all set. Pretty easy.

I first opened a beer to gain some liquid courage. The crowd (dog and 2yr old) were anxiously watching while I first grabbed hold of the refrigerator door. The door swung open with a mighty roar exposing the huge gaping whole where the previous crisper pan once shelved itself in glory. I took aim, and slid that new crisper pan in like it was meant to be. The crowd went nuts...but probably because the tv commercial was over and Sesame Street was back on. Thanks partselect!

Trouble shot the electrical circuit per the electrical schematic and zeroed in when I noted the Defrost Timer circuit was open. When I tapped on the bottom of the timer it began functioning normally (for a few days). Ordered a new Defrost Timer Kit and along with the installation instruction, I watched the on-line video. It was very helpful!!
After installation was complete, I plugged the Refrigerator into the electrical outlet and.......nothing happened! Hmmm!

Removed the Defrost Time Kit and inspected it for any damage and found none. Then I placed a flathead screwdriver to the manual advance knob and slightly rotate the gear mechanism. I heard a distance "click”. I believe the Timer was in the ‘defrost’ mode when received.

I reinstalled the timer, verified the wiring connections and this time plugged the Refrigerator into the electrical outlet and ….. it worked!!!

I unplugged the refrigerator, finished the installation per the instructions, plugged the unit in and monitored it for a few hours (just in case). That was a week ago and the Refrigerator is working like new.

The instructions were written in a manner which required re-reading a few times as they could be a bit vague. The video was what really helped and I appreciate PartSelect adding it to the instructions.

My troubleshooting narrowed down the problem to either the control assembly or the thermostat, so I bought both just in case. The motor assembly fixed the problem and I didn't need to install the thermostat.

The main thing I want to tell others who are doing this repair, however, relates to the thermostat. If you do indeed need to replace the thermostat (#PS380941) there is something you will need that is not included with the part or mentioned anywhere on this site. The instructions with the thermostat indicate you need to apply something called "Aluminastic" to the thermostat when installing it. I don't know about you, but that isn't something I have around the house, so be sure to order a tube of it when you get the thermostat so you don't have to take a trip to the store to get it to finish the repair.

Remove the front panel strip where the temperature adjustment lights show, use a thin screw driver to pot the strip out along the top. Use a nut driver to remove the control panel which contains the light, two bolts on the under side, two bolts on the front after the panel strip was removed. The control panel will hang down enough with the wires attached to allow access to the thermostat. Use a Phillips screw driver to remove the side cover where the temperature probe runs along the left hand side to the unit, one screw. You will find the temperature probe inside plastic tubing running to the back of the unit where it is wrapped around a Styrofoam holder with three plastic retainer clips on the top and bottom. Unplug the thermostat from its electrical connection. You may want to unplug the unit’s wall plus as this is 110 volt connection. Remove the two screws holding the thermostat to the plastic control panel; remove the fiber optic connection to the light strip that runs across the top of the thermostat. Remove the temperature probe from the 6 clips and pull the entire unit out. Remove the plastic tube from the old temperature probe and slide it over the probe from the new thermostat. The probe is approximately 26 inches long and you must take care not to crimp it as you slide it in the plastic tubing(warm the plastic tube with a hair dryer to reduce stiffness at the bend). Plug the wires into the new thermostat and reassemble.

I removed the cardboard backer board at the bottom rear of the refrigerator. I had to remove two screws to free the old inlet valve from the frame. The old water tube fittings were compression (screw on) type, so I cut the ends off cleanly with a sharp blade. They inserted into the valve holes easily - just needed a good push to lock them in solidly. The tubes are different sizes, so it was easy to know which one goes in which hole - the electric connectors were easy to transfer from old to new... screwed the new valve back onto the frame, re-installed the cardboard backer, flushed the system -- and no more leaks!!

De-iced the refrigerator. Removed two screws from the thermostat panel on the upper refrigerator section. Tilted it down, removed two speed nuts holding the timer, unplugged the timer plug. Determined from the instruction sheet (easy to follow) what time delay function is used, based on wire colors, placed the jumper on the correct terminal on the new timer. Plugged it in, replaced the speed nuts and screws. The timer fit perfect, works just like it is supposed to, quick easy job.

removed the Ice Tray, removed the cover that the motor is attached to, The biggest problem I had was getting the coupler off the drive shaft. It would not tightyen up and would not turn auger. I had to remove the unit and take a hack saw to cut the coupler off
The other problem I could not get the wireing harness unpluged from the refigrator, and had to remove each individual wire from its contact. I had to remove the whole motor unit inorder to get the old coupler off.

First I removed the old lightbulb from the socket and replaced it with a new one to confirm that the bulb was not the problem. I then pryed the socket out with a flat-head screwdriver. I could tell that the socket was anchored in its hole with clips so it was relatively easy to pry it out. Once the socket was out, I disconnected the lead wires and ordered a replacement socket kit from Partselect. When the new one arrived, I reconnected the lead wires to it, snapped it back into its hole, screwed in a new lightbulb, and presto!! The light was back on with no further problem. Thank you, Partselect!! A $15.00 part saved me what probably would have been at least a $100. service call and heaven knows what the technician would have told me I needed!!!

Took all the screws out of the plastic shroud that encloses the switch .There only four that I needed to remove, were the two in front where the switches that go,they go in horizontally and two in the back with large washers on them that hold the back to the top of the box that go in vertically.The switch was a snap ( make that two snaps ) the wiring is almost self explanatory. then it gos back to the way you took it off. OH! and don't forget to turn the light bulb all the way back in to the socket , so the light will work after you take the time to install it yourself.I had the water supply line from under the box to the water dispenser in the door and the total bill on that was one hundred thirty seven and a hand full of change.Don't be afraid to do it yourself the savings is enough on one one item to make several months payments on a new one Randy the "Handy Man'

I noticed the fan was running but not the compressor, they are wired in series meaning the compressor should also have power and you should hear the compressor. Could not hear compressor coming on, removed the white relay attached to the side of the compressor and could hear loose pieces shaking in relay. Ordered new relay and plugged it in, took less than five minutes. Very Easy. Thank you Partsselect

The repair was actually easy; however I have an ice dispencer/crusher attached and the which the diagram supplied with the part did not include. I had to make several calls before I was e-mailed the diagram.
Suggestions: note that the screw at the end of the auger goes in the reverse direction (this took me about 20 minutes to figure out even though it was shown in the diagram). Also, be sure to keep the ice crusher parts in order and be sure the white plastic tab on the crusher fits into a depression in the housing. I did not notice this and had to take it all apart and redo the install. It works great!!!