10651252102 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

The fridge side would freeze everything regardless of setting. First, unplug the unit. Remove control knobs and pry off the face plate which is snapped on. Remove the four nuts holding the control box to the top of the fridge. Note there is a mettle rod and the thermostat sensor lead inside a clear plastic tube leading from the control box to the back left corner of the fridge. Remove their cover (one screw). Under this cover in the back is the vent assembly screw. Remove it. On the freezer side, you also have to remove the light cover (snap on) and the vent cover behind it (one screw). This allows access to remove the vent on the fridge side. Squeeze the tabs on the vent(freezer side) that lock the vent in place and push it through to the fridge side. Now disconnect all wire connectors between the control box and the fridge. They have locking tabs that have to be pried out to release. Remove the two screws holding the thermostat to the control box, and one at a time transfer the wires from the old stat to the new one and mount the new one in place. Snap the old thermostat sensor lead out of the vent assembly, straighten it out and pull the plastic tube off. Put a lubricant on the new stat lead to ease in inserting it into the tube. Do not kink the lead. Re assemble in reverse order, plug up the fridge.

It was pretty easy to install. The most difficult part was trying to get my hands into the small area to work. I had to use both hands, one to push the release in and the other to pull the tube out. Once I did that, inserting the tube was easy and everything worked perfectly.

I discovered that the freezer was not defrosting automatically and the condenser coil was freezing up blocking the flow of cold air to the refrigerator side. I first replaced the thermostat thinking that it would be an easy fix but needless to say it didn't work. My indicator that it was not a successful repair was the continuing blinking of the filter change light on the control panel. Ultimately I had to replace the control board assembly to solve the issue.

Put new drawer in fridge.

The refrigerator would not come back on after the defrost cycle unless I smacked the housing around the controls. Since it would come back on after stricking the housing I knew it must be a sticking relay. I used the exploded drawings from Parts Select to determine how to disassemble the housing. Once the part arrived I swapped it out in about 10-14 minutes. The drawings made the job simple. Thanks Parts Select!!! -neal

First off, if you have the stainless steel panel inserts on your refrigerator you'll need to remove those to do this repair. I kept looking for the access holes on the underside of the dispenser panel that you're supposed to insert a screwdriver into to pry it off. It wasn't until I removed the freezer door handle, slid the lower stainless panel insert out, and removed the rail just beneath the dispenser that I could see and access these holes. I also removed the upper stainless panel and rail just above the dispenser to allow enough movement get the dispenser cover off and out. The rest of the repair is pretty straightforward. The old ice door was beaten up and not closing completely, this was letting warm air into the freezer which was melting and re-freezing. This kit fixed the problem.

Removed 2 screws holding housing to frame. Pulled housing out 10 inches. Removed water lines. Attached water lines to new housing. Pushed back into place. Secured to frame with 2 screws. Put in new filter. DONE!

I just removed a few screews and took the cover out of the ice box. Put my voltage meter to the refrigeator and realized the the unit was not defrosting...I then got the part number and entered it in on your web site. A few days later my part arrived. I put the part on and in just about 20 minutes I was up an running again...Thank you Part Select for fast and great service. I own 35 rental properties and having a online appliance parts store really saves me a lot of time and money.

Thank you
Curtis Hall

The wife found if we tapped the knob for the cold control the appliance would turn on. Upon further inspection I found what looked to be carbon particles under the part. I found the part easily with partselect.com, ordered it, installed it and its like we have a new appliance.

The light cover was missing so the shelf allowed for anything that was pushed back to hit the light, so the light socket broke out of the rear wall. I used expanding foam behind the light socket to glue it back into position, held really good. Then replaced the missing light cover. Another company told me the light cover was discontinued and no known supplies but Parts Select had it in stock no problems!

After replacing the defrost timer, I thought that the problem was solved, but it cam back. I finally realized it was the evaporator motor when the motor started turning after I tapped the cover (inside freezer). I knew it should be running because I turned the timer manually with a screwdriver through the defrost segment. Tips to the replacement are: 1. unplug the unit. 2. Take out the bulb cover and bulb. 3. remove the tray guides at the bottom of the freezer (2 screws each). Note these screws are longer that the others. 4. remove the shelf supports on the right hand side by sliding them directly upwards. 5. remove the 6 screws from the cover. 7. slide cover up to clear the alignment tabs, then manuver it out. 8. remove fan blades with pliers. 9. disconnect wire terminals from motor. 10. remove support clips and remove motor. 11. remove rubber motor mounts from old motor and put on new motor. 12. install in reverse order. Note extreme caution should be used when removing the cover and working around evaporator coil fins. The fins are extremely delicate (and sharp).

I ran all the ice maker module tests that I could find online, I tried cleaning the contacts inside the ice maker control module, nothing worked...so I finally decided to purchase a new control module. I had already had the module out and taken apart a few times, so the new one was very easy to install. Just removed the entire icemaker from the fridge, removed a few screws, took off the old module, put on the new one, replaced the screws, re-installed the icemaker in the fridge (it just slides in and out similar to a shelf). And 30 minutes later I heard the first batch of ice cubes drop! And by morning the bucket was nearly full. After two weeks of no ice and trying to fix it myself - the family was glad to have ice again (it was July in NC!). In retrospect, I should have followed the advice I found online and ordered the new part sooner and saved all of those frustrating hours of trying to "fix" the part myself.

The repair was incredibly easy -
1. Turn off the water at the water line for the fridge
2. Disconnect the pressure fittings for both lines running to the resevoir.
3. Remove the old resevoir
4. Install the new resevoir and run the lines back to the orginal fittings.
5. Reconnect the fittings, turn on water.
6. Drink water!

Removed cardboard back from refrig. Found source of smell/burn. Removed part. Ordered several replacement parts as the diagram was not clear as to which part would be needed. New parts arrived, matched with old. Cleaned carbon from contacts, installed new part. Cleaned dust from refrigeration coils, installed back. Returned unused parts.

The hardest part was getting the front cover plate off. I used two kitchen knifes one in each slot on the bottom of the plate and pried it off and unplug it. I removed one screw to release arm. I then used long nose pliers to remove the pin on door arm assemble. Then unplug door heater. New door has no heater. The heater had cooked the plastic arm, which caused the arm to fail. Then reassemble in reverse order.