10650032000 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

I removed the ice maker assembly from the freezer compartment (four nuts/ nut driver) and unplugged the wire harness. I discovered the nature of the problem and I went on the Internet to look for replacement parts expecting I'd have to buy the entire ice maker. When I found PartSelect.com I looked through the pictures of the parts available for my ice maker. I found the correct part quickly and easily. And having an acurate photo on the site, I was able to match all the key features of the mold I had with the one on the screen. I ordered the part, and installed it the day it arrived with just a Phillips screwdriver and a nut driver. It functions perfectly.

Switched Electric breaker to off. Removed all food and ice cube tray from freezer. Remove 4 screws on soleniod cover in rear of freezer. Removed two screws, two elec connectors from old soleniod and removed. Installed new soleniod. Reinstalled elec connectors and screws, ice cube tray and food. Turned breaker on . Ice maker worked properly.

I assumed the motor had burned out. I removed the 4 hex-head screws to remove the bracket holding the motor. I had to squeeze the electrical fitting to the motor located in the right rear of the compartment in order to electrically disconnect the motor, since the lower part of the fitting has a latch that prevents its easy removal. Then I could insert a vice grips on the shaft and on the coupling in order to (reverse) unscrew the coupling from the motor. I initially received the wrong replacement motor, but when the correct one arrived, it installed on the mounting bracket easily and I reinstalled the bracket with motor easily. It turns out a new motor did NOT fix the problem, so I'm not sure what to do now.

First I turned off my refrigerator, called for service, and had the problem diagnosed as a bad start relay. The repairman checked the compressor to see if it too was bad. The compressor was fine so I ordered the part I needed from PartSelect. After receiving the new start relay and overload from PartSelect, I unplugged the refrigerator, pulled it out and removed the screws from the lower back panel with the socket set and screwdriver. I removed the white self contained start relay box from the compressor by gently prying it off with a flat edge screw driver. I carefully disconnected the red and white wires from the broken start relay with pliers and followed the step by step directions that came with the replacement parts (the start relay and overload were separate components, not inside a self contained box like the original part). I proceeded to attach each part to the compressor, reconnect the red and white wires, and attach the new cover. I vacuumed out the area around the compressor and the condensor coils, plugged in the refrigerator, and turned it on. It worked immediately. I screwed the back cover on and pushed it back in place. Within 24 hours the ice maker was nearly full and I saved $225 by doing it myself.

The tiny piece of plastic that holds the wire that shuts off the icemaker, broke early on with our fridge (after just a few months.) We superglued it, but last week it bit the dust for good.

Once I got this part, I removed the freezer door and trays, and pulled the icemaker out by removing 3 flathead screws and unplugging the cables. Laying in the freezer on the floor was a bit unconfortable, but not too bad.

Then I inspected the icemaker. There was no obvious way to remove the part without disassembling the front of the unit (where the motor is) to release the spindle and free the part, so I did that - 3 or 4 nuts was all that held it together. Once that was out, I removed the spindle, swapped out the part, and put it all back together and back in the freezer. Plugged it in and waited.

It took a while to start making ice. Like 5 hours. Now it's going pretty slow (much slower than before.) Haven't had time to look into it, but my suspicion is the rubber hose that feeds water into the icemaker is blocked with ice or kinked. In any case, we have ice now (but not a lot), and the unit shuts itself off properly. However, we went from having too much ice (thing never shut off) to too little (thing makes ice too slow), so I need to shoot for somewhere in the middle ;)

Found the control bracket housing had broken and micro switch for the water pump was not making contact with mechanical link. (In other words when you put a cup under the dispenser and push water did NOT come out.)

I removed the faceplate and switches, removed all the switches and installed them in the new control bracket. Installed new control bracket into fridge and tested. Works! Reinstalled faceplate and switches and drained system for a few minutes. Man I forgot how good filtered water tasted!

a simple replacement

Removed four screws from ice maker motor/light support.Then unplugged electrical plug from side of freezer.Used two slip joint pliers to remove coupler from motor shaft. installed new coupler to shaft hand tight as will tighten as motor is run.Then reversed tear down order.
Ice dispenser works better than when we first got the refrigerator

The design of this refrigerator door (it's a side-by-side) is somewhat unbelievable. The door is designed to hold things, yet when you do the weight of the door wears out the lower door cams. The cams are designed to "complete the door closing", i.e. when you gently push on the door the cam mechanism takes over. When the cams wear, the door fails to close. Note to others - you may mistakenly think that the failure of the door to close is related to the seal; it is not.

The repair is quite easy; remove the upper cover, using a not driver (socket), then remove the upper door bracket. Make sure you hold the door or have someone else hold it. After the fasteners are removed gently lift up on the door and remove it from the lower cam assembly. You will see two plastic cam pieces; one on the lower bracket and one on the door. Both need to be changed to effectively "renew" the door closing mechanism. Once the cams are replaced the door can be reassembled to the refrigerator.

Turn off the fridge and unplug the power. Inside the refrigerator unit, remove two plastic panels extending from the front to the rear cooling vent by unscrewing two screws. Gently unhook the thermostat tube from the rear vent.

On the control panel, gently pry off the two control knobs and the front control panel. Remove four screws to drop down the control assembly. Unplug the left electrical connector and unscrew the lever control arm being careful not to bend it. Disconnect the right side electrical connector and you can now remove the control unit to a table to easily work on it.

Undo two screws to remove the thermostat bracket. Undo two more screws to remove the thermostat assembly. Install the new thermostat and reverse the process just described. It takes about 15 minutes if you know what to do ahead of time. You will have to reuse the plastic tube that covers the thermostat sensing tube.

The plastic lower door closing cam was worn down. Replacing it was very simple: remove the top door hinge by unscrewing three nuts; lift the door off the lower hinge; unscrew and remove the lower door hinge; screw the new plastic lower door closing cam on to the new door hinge; screw the new lower door hinge; lift the door back on to the lower door hinge; screw the top door hinge.

I removed the Ice door front cover on freezer door. Found door pivot was broken. I installed door pivot bracket, and dashpot in kit. I used most of the kit to repair it. The door now works like new. Thanks for the right parts Frank

removed the three screw holding the broken unit - pulled off the old module.

Before I could install new module I had to loosen some fasteners on ice maker so I could turn shaft to align with new module.

Then push on new unit and three screws. Had tumbling ice in about an hour. My wife thinks I'm a hero. (I am)

Replaced upper cam piece on bottom hinge and also replaced pivot thimble on upper hinge.
No problems, except pivot thimble glued in place. Had to cut up and pull out with pliers. Everything works like new now.

Removed the lower back panel (10 small screws)Found the condenser motor froze up and not moving air across the cooling coils.So I got a small table fan and set it behind the fridge and it kept the fridge cooling for 3 days till the new fan motor arrived. Removed 3 small screws holding the fan motor in the bracket and unpluged the wiring harness.Removed the fan from old motor and used it on the new motor.Replaced the fan in the bracket and plugged the wiring harness back in. Worked great. Very easy.Did not have to empty fridge because table fan kept coils cool. Ordering part was easy and shipping fast.Great job guys!!