10644559401 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

the prices you had were great, now I see there was an increase in the parts.
thank you

Buy a new crisper pan,slide out old one ,slide in new one

Remove the top hinge cover. Removed the top hinge support. Lifted the door from the bottom support. Old door cams were worn completly flat. Replaced the lower door cam and closing cam use a little vasalene for lubricant on the cam surfaces. Placed the door back on the lower hinge support. Replaced the top hinge support. Door is closing great now.
Thanks for the quick part deliver.

I knew the chances of all the freon leaking out was unlikely so I looked at the wiring to the compressor and there was a capacitor and a starter/overload so i figured I would start there. I went on line and found the parts at this site and they were less than the minimum service call charge for a service tech so I figured what the heck let's give her a shot so I did give it a shot. I ordered the parts and they were there in less time than a service tech could come out and i installed the parts and guess what for 90.00 in parts and 15 minutes in time I repaired my refrigerator. Thanks guys, It took less time to order the parts than it did to make the repair so thanks, your website rocks and is very well designed so my hat is off to you guys!

Simply pulled out old drawer and replaced with new one. This broken drawer really bothered my wife so this simple repair earned me alot of points at home. Lord knows i can use all the extra points i can get. Thanks for the quick shipment of the part. 2 days from time of call to part on my door step. Thanks again

Compressor Start Divice kit, I took off back lower panel with the 1/4 inch nut driver, on the compressor their was a wire hook that held the starter in place used my plyers to unhook, pulled the unit off plug the new unit in reappled the clip it was so easy I had to exame it severl to time to make sure that was all their was to it. put the cover back on and turn the refrigerator on and it has work great, I did not install the Bi-Metal Defrost Thermostat it was not needed.

The process to repair was very simple, I removed the back of the refrigerator to expose the motor area. I then removed three screws that held the condenser motor in place. once it was loose I detactched the electrical harness and removed the old motor. I then placed the new motor in place and secured it with the screws and reattached the new electrical harness that came with the new part. Once completed I reviewed it to make sure I didn't miss anything. I then replaced the cover over the motor area and enjoyed my success in repairing my own appliance with no added cost for labor, which would have been expensive I'm sure. The part purchased came with clear and consice instructions very easy to follow.

I diagnosed the problem as a bad relay. I detached the two sets of wires leading to the relay and compressor, then pulled the relay off the compressor. It rattled and small bits of detritus fell out from inside of the relay. The new relay came the next day. It did not rattle. It was identical and I simply did the reverse to reinstall.

WARNING: REPLACING THIS PART REQUIRES CUTTING AND SPLICING ELECTRICAL WIRES. RISK OF ELECTRICAL SHOCK OR FIRE. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS REPAIR IF YOU ARE NOT EXPERIENCED WITH ELECTRICAL WIRING.

Part Info:
The bi-metal strip is clipped onto the evaporator coils and is designed to regulate the defrost coil temperature. If it is not functioning properly you may notice ice buildup preventing air flow (and preventing proper refrigeration), or more rarely the freezer side may get too warm during the defrost cycle.

Materials:
* Replacement bi-metal strip
* Wire cutters
* Wire strippers
* Wire nuts
* Electrical tape
* 10MM socket

Steps:

1: UNPLUG THE FRIDGE! If there is ice buildup, wait until the ice has melted. A box fan blowing at the ice will help melt it more quickly.

2: Remove the panel covering the evaporator coils. It's located inside the fridge, on the freezer side.

3: Un-clip the bi-metal strip from the evaporator coils.

4: Unplug the wires from the evaporator fan, defrost coil and bi-metal strip, then disconnect the main connector that is plugged into the rear wall.

5: Clip both wires to the old ( bad ) bi-metal strip. Cut close to the casing of the bi-metal strip so there are long wires to splice onto.

6: Strip 1/4 to 1/2 inches of insulation off of the ends of the wires ( depending on the size of the wire-nuts you use). Twist the bare wires slightly to prevent fraying.

7: Do the same for the ends of the wires on the (new) bi-metal strip.

8: Take the ends of the wires belonging to the (new) bi-metal strip and the wires coming from the main plug. Take the like-colored wires, and twist the bare metal ends together.

9: Twist on wire nuts, for both sets of wires. Make sure they are snug, with no bare wire showing.

10: Tape over the wire nuts with electrical tape. Tape over the wires nuts in a spiral fashion, completely covering the nut and both wires that are now spliced together. This will prevent accidental shorting.

11: Plug the main plug back into the rear wall of the fridge. Also re-connect the connectors to the evaporator fan and defrost coil. Make sure the clips on the connectors are snug to ensure a good connection.

12: Clip the new bi-metal strip onto the coils, in the same spot as before. ( Usually just after the small incoming copper tubing that connects to the coils, known as the expansion valve. That is usually the coldest spot on the coils during operation).

13: Replace the panel that covers the coils.

14: Plug the fridge back in... Now you fridge should defrost correctly. If it does not, your defrost coil could be burned out, or the control board could be faulty.

Door quit closing on it's own......

** Order the following from www.partselect.com

Lower Door Closing Cam -- Part Number: PS323495

Upper Door Closing Cam -- Part Number: PS327641




1. 1/4 drive socket and standard socket
2. On top of door .... remove black plastic bracket cover on top of hinge
3. Have someone hold the frige door in place
4. On top of door .... remove 3 screws that hold the hinge onto the frige..... at this time, door will be loose
5. Lift door up and off the bottom hinge.
6. sit door on the ground. Tilt door at an angle for access to the "cam"
7. On frige, at the bottom, use socket to remove one screw that holds the old "bottom" cam in place..... then replace with new one.
8. While door is tilted, use socket to remove one screw that holds the "top" cam in place.
9. You will need to gently pull this cam out.... shouldn't take too much effort though.
10. Replace with new cam.
11. put door back on hinge
12. At top of frige, reinstall 3 screws
13. Reinstall plastic cover.
14. Voila, you're done

Thanks PartSelect !

1) removed the face plate that runs 3/4 way up the back of the freezer side. a total of 8 screws. (6")
2) disconnected the three electrical connections.(30sec)
3) removed the fan of the the old evaporator fan motor (5sec)
3) removed the fan motor (1")
4) put in the new fan motor (1")
5) put on the old fan on the new fan motor(5sec)
6) reconnected the three electrical connections (30sec)
7) replaced the face plate on the back of the freezer (6")
Had re-frozen meat within 1 hour.

I used a flat-head screwdriver to pop out the old light rocker switch. Then, I unplugged the wires, plugged them into the new light rocker switch, and then popped the new switch into the hole. That's it! Lights began working again.

First I opened the fridge and removed the broken drawer. I then removed the new drawer from its shipping container and placed it on the tracks in the fridge. I then closed the fridge. Perfect!

I first opened a beer to gain some liquid courage. The crowd (dog and 2yr old) were anxiously watching while I first grabbed hold of the refrigerator door. The door swung open with a mighty roar exposing the huge gaping whole where the previous crisper pan once shelved itself in glory. I took aim, and slid that new crisper pan in like it was meant to be. The crowd went nuts...but probably because the tv commercial was over and Sesame Street was back on. Thanks partselect!

Remove the front panel strip where the temperature adjustment lights show, use a thin screw driver to pot the strip out along the top. Use a nut driver to remove the control panel which contains the light, two bolts on the under side, two bolts on the front after the panel strip was removed. The control panel will hang down enough with the wires attached to allow access to the thermostat. Use a Phillips screw driver to remove the side cover where the temperature probe runs along the left hand side to the unit, one screw. You will find the temperature probe inside plastic tubing running to the back of the unit where it is wrapped around a Styrofoam holder with three plastic retainer clips on the top and bottom. Unplug the thermostat from its electrical connection. You may want to unplug the unit’s wall plus as this is 110 volt connection. Remove the two screws holding the thermostat to the plastic control panel; remove the fiber optic connection to the light strip that runs across the top of the thermostat. Remove the temperature probe from the 6 clips and pull the entire unit out. Remove the plastic tube from the old temperature probe and slide it over the probe from the new thermostat. The probe is approximately 26 inches long and you must take care not to crimp it as you slide it in the plastic tubing(warm the plastic tube with a hair dryer to reduce stiffness at the bend). Plug the wires into the new thermostat and reassemble.