10644322400 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

removed the shaft that had worn end-replaced with new one- ok now

pulled out inverter box, opened up and located burned components in circuit board. rolled the dice bought new one and installed. the terminal leading from inverter didn't match the terminal coming from the compressor . cut both off and supplied my own junction terminal.

I took out the ice collection box and auger to get access to the three screws holding the ice maker assembly against the left wall of the freezer. You can use a screwdriver or a nut driver. I then unpluged the assembly and wiggled it loose from the water fill tube. I assumed that unplugging the unit would disable the water valve but I put a plastic tub under the fill tube just in case. I studied the assembly on the kitchen table for a few minutes before I disasembled it. After removing a snapon plastick cover I removed three or four screws on the gearbox and was able to pull and wiggle the parts apart. The heater contacts have rubber O rings so you have to be firm pulling the mould out of and into the gearbox mount. Make sure it is fully seated. On reassembly note that the ice kicking arm is notched so it fits into the gearbox only one way and it helps to have it in position when you screw the gearbox back on. I also found the plastic ice guide that fits on top of the mold a little awkward in snaping back together. Make sure its fingers space evenly with the ice kicking arms.

I removed the ice maker assembly from the freezer compartment (four nuts/ nut driver) and unplugged the wire harness. I discovered the nature of the problem and I went on the Internet to look for replacement parts expecting I'd have to buy the entire ice maker. When I found PartSelect.com I looked through the pictures of the parts available for my ice maker. I found the correct part quickly and easily. And having an acurate photo on the site, I was able to match all the key features of the mold I had with the one on the screen. I ordered the part, and installed it the day it arrived with just a Phillips screwdriver and a nut driver. It functions perfectly.

Snap out - snap in.

The tiny piece of plastic that holds the wire that shuts off the icemaker, broke early on with our fridge (after just a few months.) We superglued it, but last week it bit the dust for good.

Once I got this part, I removed the freezer door and trays, and pulled the icemaker out by removing 3 flathead screws and unplugging the cables. Laying in the freezer on the floor was a bit unconfortable, but not too bad.

Then I inspected the icemaker. There was no obvious way to remove the part without disassembling the front of the unit (where the motor is) to release the spindle and free the part, so I did that - 3 or 4 nuts was all that held it together. Once that was out, I removed the spindle, swapped out the part, and put it all back together and back in the freezer. Plugged it in and waited.

It took a while to start making ice. Like 5 hours. Now it's going pretty slow (much slower than before.) Haven't had time to look into it, but my suspicion is the rubber hose that feeds water into the icemaker is blocked with ice or kinked. In any case, we have ice now (but not a lot), and the unit shuts itself off properly. However, we went from having too much ice (thing never shut off) to too little (thing makes ice too slow), so I need to shoot for somewhere in the middle ;)

Once I saw the replacement part I understood how to pry out the switch with a small screwdriver. Then just unplug the old one, plug in the new one and pop it into place.

The PartSelect site made it easy to correctly identify the correct part, it was inexpensive, and the shipping was fast.

I'm very pleased!

I looked at some online diagnostics info and the owner's manual. The "error code" blinking red light on the receiver unit (located adjacent to the ice bucket) indicated that the emitter/receiver units were faulty. I located the parts on the PartSelect website (their price was less than half of what they wanted on the Sears website) and ordered them. I didn't pay for the expedited shipping and still received the parts within two days of ordering. Powered down the refrigerator, three simple screws to remove each cover for the emitter and receiver, unplug the old units and pop in the new units, replace the covers for each unit, repowered the fridge and, voila, you've got ice. I completed the repairs in less than 10 minutes. Couldn't be happier with the price, the diagnostics links/info or the prompt service. Next time I have an appliance issue, my first stop will be this website.

I unplugged the refrigerator, then I taped ice shield up to top of refrigerator and taped the little flap on the left side of the refrigerator to side wall then I unscrewed one screw on the right side that holds the plug cover, which was then removed. I then updid the little latches on the icemaker and pulled the old ice maker out far enough to unplug the connector, which was not easy, but did unplug. I then unscrewed the three screws with the nutdriver and attached the bottom cover to the new ice maker. I then slid the new icemaker far enough to connect the electrical connector, then slid the new icemaker in until it latched. I replaced the connector cover and untaped the two items that had been taped and pluged the refrigerator into the wall socket. The new icemaker has produced ice every since.

The slides fit into the slots of the self metal, but couldn't be pushed forward to lock into place! At first I tried to put the slider in by hand, but it wouldn't snap in place no matter how hard I tried. A friend also tried to get the slider into the slots and push forward to lock in place in the metal part of the shelf. No go! It took a while, but I figured if I used a hammer to tap the slider into place that might work. It did. It would have been helpful to have some instructions on inserting the slider, such as "use a hammer tap the slider so it locks the slider into place". You just can't do it by hand! Other than that, it went really well and replacement then only took 1 minute. . .instead of the 30 minutes it took to try to lock the sliders.

I first verified that the icemaker unit itself was functioning. I did this by opening the frezzer door and pushing the light switch in, and lifting the cover to "watch" the icemaker. After a few minutes, the icemaker cycled---by that I mean the the plastic "forks' which "push" the cubes out, rotated. This, to me indicated that the gears and motor of the icemaker was working. Upon inspection, however, there no water was being dispensed into the "ice tray". Other sites indicated that the water tube can and do ice up, preventing water from being introduced to the tray. I saw no evidence of this---which indicated to me a bad water inlet valve (which is solenoid operated). The valve is located in the bottom rear of the refrigerator, behind a removable panel. Replacement is straight forward---remove an replace old unit, and your back in business!

I removed the ice bucket,the gear is located under the ice bucket and engages when ice bucket sits on it and turns the tray for ice to fall in the shute,2 screws to remove and the gear comes off and I put the new one on and put the screws back,very easy to do, total time 5 minutes,repair man wanted to charge $114 for the part and $100 for labor,I did it all for $25 thru this site,I love this site,it gsaved me alot of money,thanks partselect.,

I removed the Ice door front cover on freezer door. Found door pivot was broken. I installed door pivot bracket, and dashpot in kit. I used most of the kit to repair it. The door now works like new. Thanks for the right parts Frank

removed the three screw holding the broken unit - pulled off the old module.

Before I could install new module I had to loosen some fasteners on ice maker so I could turn shaft to align with new module.

Then push on new unit and three screws. Had tumbling ice in about an hour. My wife thinks I'm a hero. (I am)

Replaced upper cam piece on bottom hinge and also replaced pivot thimble on upper hinge.
No problems, except pivot thimble glued in place. Had to cut up and pull out with pliers. Everything works like new now.