10641269801 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Took the old one out and put the new one in. No problem.

Removed the old cam and put books under the door to hold it up. Follows instructions and really easy

remoove all the food and shelves out from the freezer section, remoove the light bulb lens ( 1 phillips screw) remoove light bulb, take out 6 srews on the back panel then slide out through the top with a slight bending curve motion, the bimetal thermostat will be clamped to the evaporator inlet, ( just after the cap tube) snap it off, then cut the wires about 2 inches from the stat, strip the ends about a quarter inch with wire strippers, same on the new stat, then use 16 or 18 gauge butt splices and crimp them , then reassemble in reverse order.

unplug the refrigerator, remove all the items on top shelf, remove the face plate with small screw driver, pry only at the top; remove the screw for the trough and the screw on the louver housing the remove these parts; remove the face plate with small screw driver, pry only at the top and remove;use a 1/4 nut driver and remove the 2 screws in the rear top and the 2 in the front of the panel then unplug the connector at the top left by squeezing the tabs, at this point take 2 pieces of wire and put in the front screw holes to let the control assembly hang down about 4 inches, this will be adequate to prevent damage to the louver linkage assembly; then reach in to the styrofoam louver housing and remove the section of thermostat bulb tube , it is held on by 6 clips, and release the 2 clips inside the control housing to free the sensor tube on the old thermostat, remove the 2 small screws that hold the thermostat with a short phillips screw driver , pull out slightly and remove the 3 wires with needle nose plyers, noting the colors, at this point the thermostat is completly free; straiten the old thermostat tube out for easy removal of the plastic tube, staighten the new tube for easy installation of the tube noting that the bulb is about 1/2/inch from the end of the end of the tube at this point instalation is reverse of removal , be carefull not to put any sharp bends in the tube upon installation or this may damage the effectivness of operation.

I unloaded the door, removed the cap covering the screws at the top hinge. I removed the screws then lifted the door off the pin. Next I removed the screws holding the door cams in place. Replaced both cams and screws, set the door back on the pin then reinstalled the three screws at the top. Snapped back on the cover and I was done. Door works perfectly.

disconnected el. power to fridge. pried out broken switch with small screwdriner and pulled out w/water pump pliers. installed new switch and pressed into opening.

It was so easy. This is the second Ice maker we have put in this fridge. Thank you very much.

I tried to just replace the cover rather than the whole unit but it was impossible - the cover would not go/stay on. I tried to remove the old unit completely but it would not unplug it was practically fused to the back of the fridge and the liner was cracking. I ended up breaking the cover and jerry rigging it over the bulb to prevent items in the fridge from being able to touch. Bad solution.

Took old one out put new one in and its like new! Costs for a simple drawer was $75! Expensive but the transaction was simple!

Replacing the door closing cams, starts with emptying the door of all foodstuffs. Remove upper hinge cover. While supporting the door, remove three upper hinge screws with the nutdriver. Lift upper hinge from top and lift door off lower hinge pin. Remove the cam retaining screws on both the bottom of the door and the lower hinge pin. Pry (if needed) the worn cams from their position. Install new cams making sure to line up the screw holes. Re-install screws, tightening just snug. Lift door back onto lower hinge pin. Set upper hinge back in place with screws loosely installed. Check door gap, top to bottom to ensure proper alignment. Tighten upper hinge screws and re-install hinge cover. Check door for proper function.

I've replaced the door cams in the past, but they didn't last very long. I finally realized on my own that both parts need to be replaced at the same time. One piece is on the case-side of the bottom hinge and the mate is on the door-side of the bottom hinge. They both have a ramp shape, with door ramp riding up the hinge ramp as you open the door. The ramp shape makes the door want to slide back down the ramp to close automatically. These are plastic parts that wear out over time. If you don't replace both at the same time, the ramp shapes don't match and they wear out quickly. They are inexpensive parts, so always replace both at the same time. I added a thin layer of petroleum jelly to help them glide better. Hopefully this fix will last a long time. It's extremely easy. First take off the top hinge of the door. Then lift the whole door off the bottom hinge. You can set it on a chair with the bottom hinge hanging over the edge of the chair. Replace the two parts, one on the door bottom hinge and one on the refrigerator case bottom hinge. Easy as pie. The only tool needed is a nut driver. You need a helper to help lift and balance the door while you work on it.

took out the old one and replaced with new. PERFECT FIT.

First I used some glue to stop the crack from spreading, and that worked for a while, but then I deceided to get a new replacement part. What I got was better than the original one as it had a white protective piece over the end of the drawer and I believe that will give more protection to the drawer. My kids did not always close the drawer all the ways and that is how the crack started. So now the refrigerator looks like new again.

Per instructions

I completed the ice maker installation but the bracket the automatic water valve was attached to in no way would fit my Whirlpool fridge. The one showed in instructions sent with the ice maker was different than the one Partselect sent me. I had to grind both sides of the bracket off and just hot glued it to the spot where it was supposed to go. I can see how this could be a real issue for some.