10641263802 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

First I installed a defrost timer, (the old timer had burnt out contacts in it) It seemed to work for a few days, then went back to not comng out of defrost cycle, I then installed a defrost thermostat. It seems to be working better than before. I found out that maybe I wasn't running it cold enough. So I turned it up colder. Now it works ok for 2 - 3 days, then I check the Temp in the freezer and its up to 6o. So I manually reset the timer and it works for 2 - 3 days. Don't know what to do now to fix it.

I removed the glides under the edges of the meat pan, remove the old pan, put the new pan in and replaced the glides. I was very pleased with PartSelect. I ordered my part, and it arrived the very next day. I will definitely order my next replacement part thru PartSelect.

Unplugged the starter from compresser and put the new part in and all worked. Great service and I like the OEM parts not aftermarket. Will definately do service with you again. Thanks for making my life easier.

simply slid out old damaged/taped up shelves and slid in the new ones i ordered,

simply removed wires from the old motor and gently lifted it out by by the metal clips - put the old bracket on the new motor, snapped on the new fan, replaced the wires, reinstalled the shield. All done in about 15 min.

This company is WONDERFUL! I ordered the wrong drawer the first time, but their return process was a snap and the correct drawer arrived the next day. It's great to know that there is someone out there with just about every part you'll need for about any appliance that is truly customer friendly.

Excellent fit and installation. The door bins slid right in and created the extra space needed on the shelves.

Same as everybody else on this post. Real easy. Actually, I just wish I would have done it sooner.

remove shelves in freezer compartment incl.holders(slide up to remove)
Remove lamp/shield
Remove panel (six phillips screws)
disconnect motor
pull off fan blade
squeeze bracket holding motor to remove
remove motor.
Re-assemble (in reverse)

Removed upper hinge cover and hinge, lifted door from lower hinge socket, removed lower cam from 'frig hinge, and replaced with new. I had a helper hold the 'frig door while I removed old upper cam, and replaced with new. Piece of cake and works like new! This must be a design problem..

New part slipped right into the studs and fit perfectly

Water leaking from under refrigerator. Initially believed leak was from filter assembly. Removed filter and shut off water supply but leak appeared at different intervals again. Large puddle of water coming out from under refrigerator. Removed back lower panel and checked for leak, but didn't find any. My wife was also checking for leak and found a crack in drip tray. Only way we could get the drip tray out was to first remove front lower panel, disconnect and remove wiring harness in front of drip tray, unbolt water filter assembly, and unbolt water solenoid unit at rear of refrigerator. Their water lines connect to filter assembly. My wife controlled the water solenoid unit to give me play as I pulled the filter assembly out as much as I could from the front. I could now wiggle the cracked drip tray out from under the filter unit. Replaced drip tray and reinstalled wiring harness, water filter unit w/new filter, and re-bolted water solenoid unit at back of refrigerator. Replaced back lower panel after turning water back on and checking for leaks. Replaced front lower panel.

The reason still had leak after initially turning off water supply was because the drip tray is used to catch the water when refrigerator goes into the defrost cycle. Since the original drip tray had cracked, water only appeared on floor after defrost cycle.

First, verified power supply. I have power at wall outlet, no power at compressor. Also noticed no condenser fan operation. Searched YouTube and watched a few diagnostic videos of how to test for proper operation of my model. Dropped the control panel down to reveal the thermostat switch and control board. Wiggled thermostat knob and compressor would work intermittently. Thermostat bad internally. Removed wiring connections, removed cover over temp.probe. slowly removed capillary tube. Removed plastic sheath from tube. Take your time installing new capillary tube into plastic sheath as not to kink and damage tube. Route the new tube back into position that the old one was in. Reinstall covers. NOTE: My wiring terminals on the new switch were in different locations but the switch was the same dimensions. I used a multi-meter to determine the correct wire locations on new switch and installed. Reconnected power and all works well now.

From the time I started to finish I worked 3 hours, this included installing the new ice maker, cutting into the cold water line in the basement and installing a t with a 6inch piece of pipe with a compression valve to connect to the small cooper tube, this is worth your time to do it this way, its a lot better connection than the small pierce valves that come with the kit, they will leak over time. I installed the filter in the waterline in the basement for easy access

I called a repair man from a pretty large name to come out and take a look. He found out in about 10 minutes that it was a bad capacitor. The quote he gave me was $75 for the part and $175 labor. I tried my best not to laugh and tell him no thank you. He did have to charge me for him to show up, which was only $98.
So I used what he told(minus the "scrap it") and opened it back up. Although he had left wires everywhere and the broken pieces laying inside, I thought it was enough for me to order the part. PartSelect was very easy to navigate and ordering was a breeze. Took about 4 days to get the part and I ordered in the X-mas craze. Fixed it in about 15 minutes.