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10461-3 General Electric Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the 10461-3
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Oven tempature was approximately 150 degrees to low
This repair is EASY if you know how to use an ohm meter. If not, seek help for this step.

SYMPTOM:
The oven (JKP27WOP3WG or JKP27WP3WG and many ovens like it ) was not getting hot enough. Verifying the cooking temperature with an typical oven thermometer, I was able to determine that the oven was cooking temperature was about 150 degrees to low.

FAILURE POINTS:
There are two logical failure points (1) The oven sensor ( WB21X5301 about $75), or the (2) the controller board (PS238233 about $252). In my case it was the controller board. When replaced the oven worked beautifully.

REPAIR:
As with any repair, you MUST DISCONNECT POWER TO THE UNIT BEFORE SERVICING!!!

Pull oven from the wall:
- Disconnect power by flipping the circuit breaker to the OFF position.
- Remove the top flange / cowling from the top of the oven (it just pulls off)
- Remove two screws under the top flange / cowling
- The whole unit easily slides out, but it is highly recommended that you use two people to place the oven on the floor.

As a diagnostic between these two parts, if the oven sensors measure approximately 1.1K ohms of resistance at room temperature, then it is probably not the sensor. The oven sensor wires are connected to two white wires that run up to the controller board. You need to disconnect the oven sensor to make the measurement. You may either completely remove the oven sensor by cutting the wire (be sure to allow yourself enough slack so that they may be safely reconnected) where it connects to the white wires, OR, (preferred method) if leaving the oven sensor partially installed,
- Remove the top sheet metal cover (10 screws)
- Remove the service connect cover (2 screws - this is where the main Power cord comes into the unit)
- Disconnect the white wires from the controller board (this connector which also includes other circuits is on the left side when looking at the controller board).
- Remove two screws from oven sensor but just let in dangle down so that you can put the sensor in the ice water / boiling water.

Measure the resistance under the following conditions. Your ohm meter should read APPROXIMATELY...
- 1.02K ohms in ice water
- 1.09K ohms at room temperature
- 1.36K ohms in boiling water.
If you get approximately these readings, then it is NOT the oven sensor. If that checks out then re-install the sensor AND the connector.

If it is NOT the sensor, replace the controller board.
- Take a moment to write down the color of the wire to the LETTERING (N, L, G, C / COM,,,) on the controller board. The connectors are in different locations on the new controller board so the wire color to the letter designation is significant.
- Carefully remove the wires one at a time
- VERY carefully remove the keypad ribbon cable from the right side of the controller board.
-- The ribbon cable will disconnect by releasing some little pressure clips on the side of the connector.
- Remove the controller board (4 screws)
- Install new controller board (4 screws)
- VERY carefully connect the keypad ribbon cable on the right side.
-- Make sure that the connector is in the OPEN position first, then,
-- Slide in the cable ensuring that all parts of the ribbon made it into the connector, then
-- Press down on the connector locking tabs.
- Reconnect each wire to the correctly lettering on the board.
-- Again, the connectors MAY BE in a different order on the replacement controller board. Match color to letter.
- Reconnect the (5 wire?) connector that includes the white oven sensor wires.
- Make sure everything looks normal, (i.e. no wires are pinched, remove tools from top of oven area, etc.)
- Re-install top cover.
- Re-install service connect cover.

You can test the unit while it is out of the cabinet,
- Make SURE that all sheet metal covers are in place.
- Flip power breaker to "On".
- Test that oven gets to the desired temp.
Parts Used:
Oven Sensor
  • James from Austin, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
218 of 250 people found this instruction helpful.
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Oven would not heat to the correct temperature
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires
Parts Used:
Oven Sensor
  • Michael from Lawrenceville, GA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
37 of 60 people found this instruction helpful.
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F2 error message on my GE oven indicated need for new heat sensor
After unscrewing the old heat sensor from inside the oven, I pulled the range away from the wall, got behind it and removed the small panel over the heat sensor. Naturally, the plastic clips connecting the heat sensor to the range wiring wouldn't come apart, so I eventually had to simply pry them apart with two pliers. Then, naturally, the new plastic connector clip on the replacement part didn't match the clip from the range, so I had to cut off both receptacles and strip the wires, then used the provided wire nuts to make the connections. After that, it was easy, just secured the heat sensor inside the oven and replaced the panel. I didn't push the range back against the wall until I tested the repair. It worked fine!
Parts Used:
Oven Sensor
  • Joseph from Brick, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers
23 of 25 people found this instruction helpful.
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oven shut down code F3
As has been said shut down unit,Breaker fuse.If you do not have install info.Get a copy on line. If you have another set of hands it would not hurt.! this has been stated before. Remove door, Remove 4 screws , to slide unit out,I used a saw horse with some cribing secured to the horse to get height, Pull the oven out so that the two front supports are on the saw horse,and the back two are up to the edge runner.I used about a 1 ft stool for working height. Remove the top elec. cover sheet metal 2 screws. You will see were the wireing runs down the back. Get a small mirror,and flash light. Look down the wire opening in the back, you see the sensor connection ,I made a hook out of a coat hanger to grab it with. Pull it up before you disconnect it ,tie a piece of string to the sensor side of the connector , use 2 Ft. then disconnect remove two screws from inside the oven. And remove,sensor tie string on to new sensor connector pull through and connect.on top.Then replace everything cck every thing Twice!Doing this i didn"t have to pull the unit all the way out! LATER GOOD LUCK!
Parts Used:
Oven Sensor
  • Richard from Jupiter, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
17 of 24 people found this instruction helpful.
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oven would not cook over 325 degrees and sometimes would burn your food.
I removed the unit from the wall,removed the back panel to access the wires to the sensor,cut the plug off of the new sensor and strip the wires back,used the wire nuts to attach the new sensor,put all back together and slid back into the wall and works excellent.
Parts Used:
Oven Sensor
  • phil from forney, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
14 of 17 people found this instruction helpful.
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Oven not heating
It was very easy I removed two screws unpluged the sensor and wire spliced it together and also replaced the modual on the top of the stove and it was that easy.
Parts Used:
Oven Sensor
  • Joseph from Stuart, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
13 of 19 people found this instruction helpful.
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Oven would not maintain set temperature
No problem installing oven sensor, but I diagnose the problem wrong, I need to change(ERC-11)control p/n wb27k5140
Parts Used:
Oven Sensor
  • Leonel from Biddeford, ME
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
11 of 15 people found this instruction helpful.
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replaced more for cosmetic reasons
Your support team helped tremendously in ordering the parts. Parts arrived in only 2 days. Upon taking the door off the oven we had to remove several screws, then more screws. Was able to take it almost fully apart, replace old broken parts with new. Putting it back together was like a puzzle. We did it though and saved money! Thanks
Parts Used:
Bottom Trim - White TRIM VENT & CLIP White
  • Glenda from Port Richey, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
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old drip pans rusted
I unplugged the burner, lifted the old drip pan out, put new drip pan in, plugged burner in. The stove looks brand new and it took less than 2 minutes.
Parts Used:
Burner Bowl - 8 Inch Burner Bowl - 6 Inch
  • noreen from torrington, CT
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
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rusted trim strip
remove screws, re-install screws
Parts Used:
Bottom Trim - White
  • Larry from Sarasota, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Socket set
3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
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bottom trim had rusted, so we needed new piece
Removed oven door (made sure hinges were locked open and stayed open). Remove part on top of trim, removed rusted trim and replaced with new trim. Replaced part on top of trim and screwed all back together. Put oven door back on and unlocked hinges. It was easier than the trial run (when I hadn't realized that the hinges weren't locked open!)
Parts Used:
Bottom Trim - White
  • Robin from Apple Valley, MN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Socket set
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
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replaced broken oven door handle
On a 18 year old electric GE range: amazing not the exact handle but it does fit perfectly and looks great. If your somewhat handy this is very easy and can be completed in less than a half hour. Save the screws from the old handle, they can be used again.
Parts Used:
Door Handle
  • John from BOCA RATON, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
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just needed new GE burner bowls
Only instructions I have has nothing to do with installation. But I'd like to suggest that you find a better shipping method. Placed my order on Feb. 7, received message later same day that it'd shipped. I didn't receive it until Feb. 16th -- very poor delivery service.
Parts Used:
Burner Bowl - 8 Inch Burner Bowl - 6 Inch
  • Jacqueline from E WENATCHEE, WA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
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Old burner bowl needed to be replaced
Took out the old & put in the new one-Done!
Parts Used:
Burner Bowl - 8 Inch
  • bonnie from N KINGSTOWN, RI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
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aged burner bowls
I just removed the range elements and old bowls, placed the new bowls into the range top, and inserted the heating elements. What surprised me was the quickness in filling the order. I had the new parts the next day! Great!
Parts Used:
Burner Bowl - 8 Inch Burner Bowl - 6 Inch
  • Louis from Sandwich, MA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
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All Instructions for the 10461-3
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