Kelvinator Air Conditioner Parts

Kelvinator Appliance Parts
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Popular Kelvinator Air Conditioner Parts

Your Price 6.79
  On Order
Drip Bowl - 8"
★★★★★
★★★★★
(89)
PartSelect Number PS437595
Manufacturer Part Number 316048413
This chrome drip bowl is designed for use with electric cooktops and ranges. This drip bowl is sold individually. At the widest point this part has a diameter of approximately 10 inches. It sits beneath the surface burner element. It catches any drips or spills coming from the cookware on your burner. Because the cooktop is a high-traffic area of the kitchen, these bowls often get damaged, or get so dirty they can no longer be adequately cleaned. When replacing this part you need to remove the burner element. While you have it out we recommend inspecting the terminals and the element for any corrosion, arcing, or discoloration. Any of those things could be a sign of a bigger problem, and it indicates that the element and terminal block should be replaced.
Fixes these symptoms
Installation Instructions
John from Nisswa, MN
Old pans/bowls were corroded
Very easy---simply unplug the burners, remove the old pans and replace with the new ones

I was extremely pleased with the easy ordering and prompt delivery of parts that actually fit as they should!
Read more...
Your Price 5.15
  In Stock
Chrome Drip Bowl - 6"
★★★★★
★★★★★
(41)
PartSelect Number PS437596
Manufacturer Part Number 316048414
The drip bowl catches grease and spills that come from cooking on your stove top. They are located under the heating elements. Drip bowls are often neglected and can become rusted and cracked. If your drip bowl is damaged, it could allow grease, food, or other spills to drip inside your range. This could become a fire hazard. This 6 inch chrome drip bowl fits most electric ranges. Before you replace your damaged drip bowl, make sure the element is turned off and cool to the touch. To replace the drip bowl, remove the element, replace the current drip bowl, and reattach the element. This part is sold individually.
Fixes these symptoms
Installation Instructions
John from Nisswa, MN
Old pans/bowls were corroded
Very easy---simply unplug the burners, remove the old pans and replace with the new ones

I was extremely pleased with the easy ordering and prompt delivery of parts that actually fit as they should!
Read more...
Your Price 16.02
  Special Order
Defrost Timer - 60Hz 120V
★★★★★
★★★★★
(34)
PartSelect Number PS423801
Manufacturer Part Number 215846602
Defrost timers are part of the defrost circuit in your refrigerator and freezer. This timer cycles the defrost heater on and off. For every eight hours, the appliance timer will cycle for 30 minutes. The defrost heater is what melts the frost buildup on the evaporator coils, and it can prevent your freezer from frosting up. If your timer fails, the heater will not get the energy it needs to run, and frost will continue to build up. Test the defrost thermostat and the defrost heater with a multi-meter. If they are in working order it is likely that the defrost timer is the faulty component of the circuit and needs to be replaced. Before you begin this repair make sure the appliance has been unplugged.
Fixes these symptoms
  • Freezer not defrosting
  • Freezer section too warm
  • Freezer too cold
  • See more...
Installation Instructions
Stephen from Warrington, PA
Fridge got warm and freezer coils were frosted
Fridge is a side by side. The freezer is pretty narrow for a guy with wide shoulders.

Pulled plug.

Had to remove bottom drawers then used nut driver to remove screws closest to back wall in drawer runners. Once the back screws were removed the runners could be swung up or down out of way so back cover could be removed.

Once back cover was removed thermostat was located attached to top pipe going into coil using a spring clamp.

Cut the wires just outside the crimp connectors going into thermostat. Released the spring clamp buy squeezing botton together.

Removed old badly corroded thermostat.

I wish I had attached the crimp connectors to the new thermostat wires before mounting it. Reaching way in the back, while turning shoulders verticly and trying to get the wire connectors set from both sides was awkward and uncomfortable...The biggest PIA of the whole task.

Once connected I let the fridge (thermostat) cool for 10 min. Turned the dial defrost timer to get it into defrost mode. Stupidly touched the heating element to see if it was getting warm...it was very hot.

Coils steamed...every looked like it was working. Unplugged, put back cover back on and retattached drawer mounts.

Plugged back in and everying is working great!
Read more...
Your Price 7.61
  In Stock
Terminal Block Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(21)
PartSelect Number PS470125
Manufacturer Part Number 5303935058
This part connects the wire harness to the surface element and is used for ranges. The kit includes interchangeable mounting brackets, ceramic wire nuts, heat shrink protective tubing, and wires. If your range/oven is having symptoms such as burner not heating, heating elements not working, burning smell, or if the oven is making a buzzing noise then this could be the solution. The tools needed to replace the kit are wire strippers, a heat gun or hair dryer, and #1 square heard screw driver. Refer to the installation/instructional video for further guidance to accurately replace the element.
Fixes these symptoms
Installation Instructions
Steven from Taylors, SC
rental property stove only had 2 working burners and bottom drawer off track
first i took out burners then i took out the screws of the termnal block bracket. i then raised the lid on the stoveand clipped the wires on all 4 of the terminal block kits.i then slipped the shrink wrap on wires and used the wire nuts to connect wires together then heated the shrink wrap. I then put screws back in terminal block brackets. I then put the burners on while looking under lid so i would know they were making good connections as this is a bad design from factory. if you pull out burners to clean them and they are not put back in right you dont have a good connection and that causes the terminal blocks to get hot and melt. thats what happened in my case.
As far as the drawer glides they just snap into place
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Your Price 5.13
  In Stock
Lamp, Oven Light
★★★★★
★★★★★
(8)
PartSelect Number PS12751166
Manufacturer Part Number 316538904
Fixes these symptoms
Installation Instructions
Jay from Franklin, WI
No Ice or water through the door
Shut water off, removed back cardboard panel from fridge, disconnect water supply to valve, disconnect electrical plugs to water valve, removed defective valve, cut flexible copper supply tubing as connector was different, connect electrical plugs to new valve, install supplied compression nut & ring onto cut flexible copper supply tubing & re-connect water supply to new inlet valve, attach water inlet valve to fridge frame with supplied screw and added additional self tapping screw through second mounting hole into fridge frame to keep valve from shifting. Read more...
Your Price 32.85
  In Stock
Evaporator Fan Blade
★★★★★
★★★★★
(5)
PartSelect Number PS473177
Manufacturer Part Number 5308000010
This evaporator fan blade is a genuine OEM part that is sourced directly from the manufacturer. The evaporator fan blade circulates air through the refrigerator to control the amount of cold air goes that goes to internal compartments of the unit. It may need to be replaced if the fridge is noisy or not cold enough. This part is made of plastic and is sold individually. It will be necessary to disconnect power to the refrigerator and empty the freezer compartment of the refrigerator. The tools needed to complete this repair are a 1/4 inch nut driver and a pair of needle nose pliers.
Fixes these symptoms
Installation Instructions
Jordan from Maumee, OH
Noisy fan
1. Removed the 7 nuts using the nut driver from the freezer back panel inside the freezer.
2. Remove the back panel. The evaporator motor and fan are located above the coils.
3. Unplug the wiring harness.
4. Remove the two gold mounting screws holding the motor and fan in place.
5. Remove the motor and fan including the brackets.
6. Install the new motor and fan onto the mounting bracket.
6a. Attach the green ground to the mounting bracket.
7. Screw the two gold screws back into the freezer.
8. Attach the new wiring harness. Note, the old harness had a mounting hole/space for it to connect to the wiring harness of the freezer. The new motor's harness was not long enough for this, so it is connected freely to the freezer harness.
9. Use the hair dryer to melt any ice that may have formed on the coils and hole where the fan goes.
10. Turn the freezer on to see if the fan turns on.
11. Reinstall the back panel.
All done!
Read more...
Your Price 20.28
  In Stock
Rear Drum Bearing Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(87)
PartSelect Number PS459829
Manufacturer Part Number 5303281153
This rear drum bearing kit is designed for use with dryers. It supports the rear of the drum in your appliance as it tumbles your clothes during the drying cycle. If your drum will not tumble, or if it is making a lot of noise, it could be an issue with this part. This is a ball-and-socket style bearing. You will need to replace this if the bushing has worn out, or if the ball support is damaged. This kit includes one bearing, one ball shaft, one ball bearing, one ball bearing retainer, a small tube of high temperature lubricant and installation screws. Unplug your dryer before you begin this repair.
Fixes these symptoms
  • Marks left on clothes
  • No heat or not enough heat
  • Noisy
  • See more...
Installation Instructions
charles from new holland, OH
Dryer squealed like a pig and at times the drum stopped rotating
First thought the problem was a stretched drum belt or bad idler pulley. Ordered a new belt and idler assy plus spring. Replaced those items with relative ease following suggestions obtained at this site.However, problem persisted and I now suspected a bad drum bearing. Odered the bearing kit and replaced same using the following procedure.
1. Removed the cover from the back of the dryer (held in place via two phillip head screws)
2. Pushed down on the idler assy and removed the idler spring to release the drum belt.
3. Inserted flat tip screwdriver between the top panel and the dryer main body in the front of the dryer to pry the top loose from the two retaining clips.
4. used phillips screwdriver to remove the two retaining screws (one left, one right) that hold the front panel to the main body of the dryer. (about a foot down from the top of the dryer).
5. disconnected the wiring plug on the top right hand side at the top of the dryer.
6. lifted the front panel slightly removing it from the main body and placed it to the side.
7. lifted the rear of the drum to release it from the bearing bracket and removed the drum belt.
8. Pulled the drum through the front of the dryer body and moved it to an open work area.
9. Reached into the Dryer and loosened the two
bearing bracket screws with a nut driver. Here's where another pair of hands would have come in handy. Holding the ground bar on the back of the drum with on hand, reached into the dryer and finished removing the bracket screws somehow managing not to drop the tiny grounding ball (size of a BB) Removed the badly damaged plastic bracket, grounding bar, and grounding ball and set
them aside to be discarded later.
10. Used impact driver with phillips attachment to remove two of the three screws that hold the bearing to the back of the drum (these are on the inside) The third screw's head stripped out and I had a very difficult time removing it. Had it not been for that, the job would have taken less than an hour.
11. I had my wife hold the bearing in place while I started the three retaining screws.
12. My wife also got behing the dryer and held the grounding bar in place while I installed the new bearing bracket . (this kept me from loosing the grounding ball)
I just reversed the rest of the procedures to install the drum belt, drum, front panel, etc.
The dryer works like new now, doesn't squeal.
Also replaced the on/off switch knob (just pulled the old one from the stem and slid the new one on.
Read more...
Your Price 7.69
  In Stock
Freezer Door Key
★★★★★
★★★★★
(17)
PartSelect Number PS1991481
Manufacturer Part Number 297147700
This freezer door key is designed for use with most upright and chest freezers. It is an authentic OEM replacement part. Your appliance has a lid or door that locks and unlocks, this key controls that function. If your key is lost or damaged this is the replacement you need. Be sure to store this key someplace safe, we also recommend that you store it away from the freezer. This part is made of plastic, is white in color, and it is sold individually.
Fixes these symptoms
Installation Instructions
CHARLOTTE from SEDALIA, MO
replacement freezer keys
I accidently threw away both freezer keys to our upright Gibson and G.E. Freezers!!!! I had no luck finding replacements locally, so I got on the internet and came across PartSelect.com. I called them on the telephone; and after giving the model numbers of my freezers, the keys were on their way!! I received the keys very quickly and both worked perfectly. I would highly recommend Partselect.com. Charlotte M. Bishop Read more...
Your Price 22.02
  On Order
Bake Element - 240V
★★★★★
★★★★★
(30)
PartSelect Number PS453960
Manufacturer Part Number 5303051519
This heating element, used in any range/oven, is an open-style bake element. It is placed at the bottom of the oven and supplies heat. If your baking element does not supply consistent heat or is burnt out, then replacing the element is the solution to this problem. This heating element is a 19-1/4 inches wide by 15 inches long. The push-on male spade terminals are 13-3/4 inches apart. The tools needed for this replacement are: a screwdriver and needle-nose pliers. The first step in is to unplug the range or shut off the house circuit breaker before starting. Unscrew the back of the oven cavity to pull out wires from the defective element. Reconnect wires to the new element and screw it back.
Fixes these symptoms
  • Element will not heat
  • Little to no heat when baking
  • Oven is too hot
  • See more...
Installation Instructions
Christopher from North Salt Lake, UT
Baking Heating Element Burned Up
Used a screw driver with a socket head to remove the two hex head screws holding the old element. Pulled the old element forward until the two wire attachements were visable. The wires were attached with a simple tab connector. Removed the wires from the element. Attached wires to new element slide the element and wires back into wall of oven and replaced screws. Done! Read more...
Your Price 15.99
  In Stock
Drum Belt
★★★★★
★★★★★
(41)
PartSelect Number PS1148434
Manufacturer Part Number 134503600
This drum belt, often referred to as a drive belt, is used in the assembly of dryers. It goes around the drum, the idler pulley, and the motor pulley. As the armature on the motor spins, this belt is what rotates the drum and tumbles your clothes during the dry cycle. If you can hear the motor running but the drum is not moving, that is a sign your belt is broken, stretched, or damaged, and can no longer grip the drum. This belt is 88 3/4 inches long, and is 1/4 inch wide. Because it is made of rubber it is common for this part to become brittle and need to be replaced. This is an authentic OEM replacement part, and it is sold individually. Remember to unplug your dryer before you begin this repair.
Fixes these symptoms
  • Marks left on clothes
  • No heat or not enough heat
  • Noisy
  • See more...
Installation Instructions
Cynthia from Lexington, SC
Squealing noise
We followed the instructions for the drum glide replacement and changed the belt and drum support bearing piece, cleaned it out too. Works like a charm. Thanks for saving us a bundle. Read more...

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