Kelvinator Air Conditioner Parts
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Popular Kelvinator Air Conditioner Parts
Your Price
$19.25
In Stock
Light Bulb
PartSelect Number PS12751166
Manufacturer Part Number 316538904
This OEM 40 watt appliance light bulb is used for some ranges, refrigerators, freezers, and microwaves. Simply locate the existing bulb, unscrew it from its socket, and replace with new light bulb. If the existing bulb is broken in the socket, disconnect the power to the refrigerator and use a pair of needle nose pliers to grip the internal fragments of the bulb to unscrew. Replace with the new bulb and reconnect the power to the refrigerator. These bulbs are sold individually and are a commonly replaced part; consider ordering a spare.
Installation Instructions
Colin from Hollis, NY
Ice-Maker and Water Dispenser not working.
First I disconnected the power cord, then removed the screws that held the bracket that holds the base for the water-filer in place. I then disconnected the water lines(intake and outflow). Next I removed the screws that held the water-filter's base in place. I then disconnected the release lock mechanism for the filter and finally removed the water-filter base. I did the reverse to install the new water-filter base. Previously I had tested the intake water line and noticed the water was flowing with enough pressure upto the water-filter's base but no water was exiting thru the outflow line, which leads to the Ice-Maker and Dispenser. I had tried changing the filter but that didn't solve the problem it was then I had realized that the Base was the problem. The actual problem was the spring-loaded valves for both the intake and outflow lines, which had a plastic prong that protrudes out of the base that is triggered by the filter when installed. The two prongs were worn-down so the filter wasn't activating the spring-loaded release valve to let the water thru. As for the light, I just unscrewed it.
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Your Price
$12.28
In Stock
Drip Bowl - 8"
I was extremely pleased with the easy ordering and prompt delivery of parts that actually fit as they should! Read more...
PartSelect Number PS437595
Manufacturer Part Number 316048413
This chrome drip bowl is designed for use with electric cooktops and ranges. This drip bowl is sold individually. At the widest point this part has a diameter of approximately 10 inches. It sits beneath the surface burner element. It catches any drips or spills coming from the cookware on your burner. Because the cooktop is a high-traffic area of the kitchen, these bowls often get damaged, or get so dirty they can no longer be adequately cleaned. When replacing this part you need to remove the burner element. While you have it out we recommend inspecting the terminals and the element for any corrosion, arcing, or discoloration. Any of those things could be a sign of a bigger problem, and it indicates that the element and terminal block should be replaced.
Fixes these symptoms
- Element will not heat
- See more...
Installation Instructions
John from Nisswa, MN
Old pans/bowls were corroded
Very easy---simply unplug the burners, remove the old pans and replace with the new onesI was extremely pleased with the easy ordering and prompt delivery of parts that actually fit as they should! Read more...
Your Price
$9.45
In Stock
Chrome Drip Bowl - 6"
I was extremely pleased with the easy ordering and prompt delivery of parts that actually fit as they should! Read more...
PartSelect Number PS437596
Manufacturer Part Number 316048414
The drip bowl catches grease and spills that come from cooking on your stove top. They are located under the heating elements. Drip bowls are often neglected and can become rusted and cracked. If your drip bowl is damaged, it could allow grease, food, or other spills to drip inside your range. This could become a fire hazard. This 6 inch chrome drip bowl fits most electric ranges. Before you replace your damaged drip bowl, make sure the element is turned off and cool to the touch. To replace the drip bowl, remove the element, replace the current drip bowl, and reattach the element. This part is sold individually.
Fixes these symptoms
- Element will not heat
- See more...
Installation Instructions
John from Nisswa, MN
Old pans/bowls were corroded
Very easy---simply unplug the burners, remove the old pans and replace with the new onesI was extremely pleased with the easy ordering and prompt delivery of parts that actually fit as they should! Read more...
Your Price
$9.73
In Stock
Terminal Block Kit
As far as the drawer glides they just snap into place Read more...
PartSelect Number PS470125
Manufacturer Part Number 5303935058
This part connects the wire harness to the surface element and is used for ranges. The kit includes interchangeable mounting brackets, ceramic wire nuts, heat shrink protective tubing, and wires. If your range/oven is having symptoms such as burner not heating, heating elements not working, burning smell, or if the oven is making a buzzing noise then this could be the solution. The tools needed to replace the kit are wire strippers, a heat gun or hair dryer, and #1 square heard screw driver. Refer to the installation/instructional video for further guidance to accurately replace the element.
Fixes these symptoms
- Element will not heat
- Oven not heating evenly
- Will Not Start
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Steven from Taylors, SC
rental property stove only had 2 working burners and bottom drawer off track
first i took out burners then i took out the screws of the termnal block bracket. i then raised the lid on the stoveand clipped the wires on all 4 of the terminal block kits.i then slipped the shrink wrap on wires and used the wire nuts to connect wires together then heated the shrink wrap. I then put screws back in terminal block brackets. I then put the burners on while looking under lid so i would know they were making good connections as this is a bad design from factory. if you pull out burners to clean them and they are not put back in right you dont have a good connection and that causes the terminal blocks to get hot and melt. thats what happened in my case. As far as the drawer glides they just snap into place Read more...
Your Price
$37.70
In Stock
Defrost Timer - 60Hz 120V
Pulled plug.
Had to remove bottom drawers then used nut driver to remove screws closest to back wall in drawer runners. Once the back screws were removed the runners could be swung up or down out of way so back cover could be removed.
Once back cover was removed thermostat was located attached to top pipe going into coil using a spring clamp.
Cut the wires just outside the crimp connectors going into thermostat. Released the spring clamp buy squeezing botton together.
Removed old badly corroded thermostat.
I wish I had attached the crimp connectors to the new thermostat wires before mounting it. Reaching way in the back, while turning shoulders verticly and trying to get the wire connectors set from both sides was awkward and uncomfortable...The biggest PIA of the whole task.
Once connected I let the fridge (thermostat) cool for 10 min. Turned the dial defrost timer to get it into defrost mode. Stupidly touched the heating element to see if it was getting warm...it was very hot.
Coils steamed...every looked like it was working. Unplugged, put back cover back on and retattached drawer mounts.
Plugged back in and everying is working great! Read more...
PartSelect Number PS423801
Manufacturer Part Number 215846602
This Defrost Timer works like a clock by switching on the defrost heater circuit after a predetermined amount of compressor run time. This allows the defrost circuit to clear the evaporator of ice or frost to maintain proper airflow. The defrost timer is located in the control housing which is in the refrigerator section of your appliance. If this part is not working, it can lead to temperature increases in your refrigerator. If the compressor circuit fails, no cooling will take place; if the defrost circuit isn't activated, ice will quickly build up on the evaporator coils and reduce airflow and efficiency. If the timer doesn't advance or if the contacts have no continuity, the timer will need to be replaced. This timer measures approximately 3 inches long and 2.5 inches wide, and is constructed of plastic and metal. It comes in black/white/silver and is sold individually. This replacement part features 1 defrost timer.
Fixes these symptoms
- Freezer not defrosting
- Freezer section too warm
- Freezer too cold
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Stephen from Warrington, PA
Fridge got warm and freezer coils were frosted
Fridge is a side by side. The freezer is pretty narrow for a guy with wide shoulders. Pulled plug.
Had to remove bottom drawers then used nut driver to remove screws closest to back wall in drawer runners. Once the back screws were removed the runners could be swung up or down out of way so back cover could be removed.
Once back cover was removed thermostat was located attached to top pipe going into coil using a spring clamp.
Cut the wires just outside the crimp connectors going into thermostat. Released the spring clamp buy squeezing botton together.
Removed old badly corroded thermostat.
I wish I had attached the crimp connectors to the new thermostat wires before mounting it. Reaching way in the back, while turning shoulders verticly and trying to get the wire connectors set from both sides was awkward and uncomfortable...The biggest PIA of the whole task.
Once connected I let the fridge (thermostat) cool for 10 min. Turned the dial defrost timer to get it into defrost mode. Stupidly touched the heating element to see if it was getting warm...it was very hot.
Coils steamed...every looked like it was working. Unplugged, put back cover back on and retattached drawer mounts.
Plugged back in and everying is working great! Read more...
Your Price
$46.66
In Stock
Evaporator Fan Blade
2. Remove the back panel. The evaporator motor and fan are located above the coils.
3. Unplug the wiring harness.
4. Remove the two gold mounting screws holding the motor and fan in place.
5. Remove the motor and fan including the brackets.
6. Install the new motor and fan onto the mounting bracket.
6a. Attach the green ground to the mounting bracket.
7. Screw the two gold screws back into the freezer.
8. Attach the new wiring harness. Note, the old harness had a mounting hole/space for it to connect to the wiring harness of the freezer. The new motor's harness was not long enough for this, so it is connected freely to the freezer harness.
9. Use the hair dryer to melt any ice that may have formed on the coils and hole where the fan goes.
10. Turn the freezer on to see if the fan turns on.
11. Reinstall the back panel.
All done! Read more...
PartSelect Number PS473177
Manufacturer Part Number 5308000010
This evaporator fan blade is a genuine OEM part that is sourced directly from the manufacturer. The evaporator fan blade circulates air through the refrigerator to control the amount of cold air goes that goes to internal compartments of the unit. It may need to be replaced if the fridge is noisy or not cold enough. This part is made of plastic and is sold individually. It will be necessary to disconnect power to the refrigerator and empty the freezer compartment of the refrigerator. The tools needed to complete this repair are a 1/4 inch nut driver and a pair of needle nose pliers.
Fixes these symptoms
- Fridge too warm
- Noisy
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Jordan from Maumee, OH
Noisy fan
1. Removed the 7 nuts using the nut driver from the freezer back panel inside the freezer.2. Remove the back panel. The evaporator motor and fan are located above the coils.
3. Unplug the wiring harness.
4. Remove the two gold mounting screws holding the motor and fan in place.
5. Remove the motor and fan including the brackets.
6. Install the new motor and fan onto the mounting bracket.
6a. Attach the green ground to the mounting bracket.
7. Screw the two gold screws back into the freezer.
8. Attach the new wiring harness. Note, the old harness had a mounting hole/space for it to connect to the wiring harness of the freezer. The new motor's harness was not long enough for this, so it is connected freely to the freezer harness.
9. Use the hair dryer to melt any ice that may have formed on the coils and hole where the fan goes.
10. Turn the freezer on to see if the fan turns on.
11. Reinstall the back panel.
All done! Read more...
Your Price
$42.79
In Stock
Rear Drum Bearing Kit
1. Removed the cover from the back of the dryer (held in place via two phillip head screws)
2. Pushed down on the idler assy and removed the idler spring to release the drum belt.
3. Inserted flat tip screwdriver between the top panel and the dryer main body in the front of the dryer to pry the top loose from the two retaining clips.
4. used phillips screwdriver to remove the two retaining screws (one left, one right) that hold the front panel to the main body of the dryer. (about a foot down from the top of the dryer).
5. disconnected the wiring plug on the top right hand side at the top of the dryer.
6. lifted the front panel slightly removing it from the main body and placed it to the side.
7. lifted the rear of the drum to release it from the bearing bracket and removed the drum belt.
8. Pulled the drum through the front of the dryer body and moved it to an open work area.
9. Reached into the Dryer and loosened the two
bearing bracket screws with a nut driver. Here's where another pair of hands would have come in handy. Holding the ground bar on the back of the drum with on hand, reached into the dryer and finished removing the bracket screws somehow managing not to drop the tiny grounding ball (size of a BB) Removed the badly damaged plastic bracket, grounding bar, and grounding ball and set
them aside to be discarded later.
10. Used impact driver with phillips attachment to remove two of the three screws that hold the bearing to the back of the drum (these are on the inside) The third screw's head stripped out and I had a very difficult time removing it. Had it not been for that, the job would have taken less than an hour.
11. I had my wife hold the bearing in place while I started the three retaining screws.
12. My wife also got behing the dryer and held the grounding bar in place while I installed the new bearing bracket . (this kept me from loosing the grounding ball)
I just reversed the rest of the procedures to install the drum belt, drum, front panel, etc.
The dryer works like new now, doesn't squeal.
Also replaced the on/off switch knob (just pulled the old one from the stem and slid the new one on. Read more...
PartSelect Number PS459829
Manufacturer Part Number 5303281153
This rear drum bearing kit is designed for use with dryers. It supports the rear of the drum in your appliance as it tumbles your clothes during the drying cycle. If your drum will not tumble, or if it is making a lot of noise, it could be an issue with this part. This is a ball-and-socket style bearing. You will need to replace this if the bushing has worn out, or if the ball support is damaged. This kit includes one bearing, one ball shaft, one ball bearing, one ball bearing retainer, a small tube of high temperature lubricant and installation screws. Unplug your dryer before you begin this repair.
Fixes these symptoms
- Marks left on clothes
- Noisy
- See more...
Installation Instructions
charles from new holland, OH
Dryer squealed like a pig and at times the drum stopped rotating
First thought the problem was a stretched drum belt or bad idler pulley. Ordered a new belt and idler assy plus spring. Replaced those items with relative ease following suggestions obtained at this site.However, problem persisted and I now suspected a bad drum bearing. Odered the bearing kit and replaced same using the following procedure.1. Removed the cover from the back of the dryer (held in place via two phillip head screws)
2. Pushed down on the idler assy and removed the idler spring to release the drum belt.
3. Inserted flat tip screwdriver between the top panel and the dryer main body in the front of the dryer to pry the top loose from the two retaining clips.
4. used phillips screwdriver to remove the two retaining screws (one left, one right) that hold the front panel to the main body of the dryer. (about a foot down from the top of the dryer).
5. disconnected the wiring plug on the top right hand side at the top of the dryer.
6. lifted the front panel slightly removing it from the main body and placed it to the side.
7. lifted the rear of the drum to release it from the bearing bracket and removed the drum belt.
8. Pulled the drum through the front of the dryer body and moved it to an open work area.
9. Reached into the Dryer and loosened the two
bearing bracket screws with a nut driver. Here's where another pair of hands would have come in handy. Holding the ground bar on the back of the drum with on hand, reached into the dryer and finished removing the bracket screws somehow managing not to drop the tiny grounding ball (size of a BB) Removed the badly damaged plastic bracket, grounding bar, and grounding ball and set
them aside to be discarded later.
10. Used impact driver with phillips attachment to remove two of the three screws that hold the bearing to the back of the drum (these are on the inside) The third screw's head stripped out and I had a very difficult time removing it. Had it not been for that, the job would have taken less than an hour.
11. I had my wife hold the bearing in place while I started the three retaining screws.
12. My wife also got behing the dryer and held the grounding bar in place while I installed the new bearing bracket . (this kept me from loosing the grounding ball)
I just reversed the rest of the procedures to install the drum belt, drum, front panel, etc.
The dryer works like new now, doesn't squeal.
Also replaced the on/off switch knob (just pulled the old one from the stem and slid the new one on. Read more...
Your Price
$47.59
In Stock
Oven Bake Element
2. Ordered the part from partselect.com
3. Disconnected element, connected the new one, and screwed it back in. Read more...
PartSelect Number PS438018
Manufacturer Part Number 316075103
The Oven Bake Element is a black, metal part which supplies heat to the oven. This element is 19-1/2" wide x 18-1/2" long and has 3-1/2" inserts. It is rated as "Easy" to install by users, and attaches to the bottom of the oven. If you notice visible damage, or that your oven is not receiving heat properly then it may be a problem with this part. Check your model number and user manual to see if this is the right part for you. It is important for you to disconnect your appliance from the power source before performing this repair. After disconnecting your appliance, remove the two screws/nuts connecting the old element, pull it out, and discard if faulty. Simply connect the new element prongs where the old element fit, and screw it back in. You may need a flashlight when making this repair.
Fixes these symptoms
- Element will not heat
- Little to no heat when baking
- Little to no heat when broiling
- See more...
Installation Instructions
David from Shawnee, KS
Oven woudn't heat
1. Removed two screws, pulled out the element, voltage tested the element and determined it was an open circuit (bad element).2. Ordered the part from partselect.com
3. Disconnected element, connected the new one, and screwed it back in. Read more...
Your Price
$15.27
In Stock
Main Terminal Block Kit
PartSelect Number PS471605
Manufacturer Part Number 5304409888
Terminal block kits are also known as terminal boards, or terminal strips, and they are found in a wide variety of household appliances. Most often in ranges, wall ovens, and dryers. This kit attaches the power cord to the inner wiring of your appliance. If the terminal block is faulty, your appliance will not get the power it needs to operate properly. When removing the old block pay close attention to the wire placement, this will make installing your new part much easier. If you notice any of the wires or wire terminals are corroded or damaged they will also need to be replaced.
Fixes these symptoms
- Element will not heat
- Little to no heat when baking
- Little to no heat when broiling
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Timothy from Spring Valley, AL
Cord was not tightened enough by delivery crew.
PF alarm appeared on display. Noticed clicking when cord was moved. Had arced for some time and melted original block. New part slightly different. Only has 3 lugs, old one had six. Stack using washers provided. Take note of colors before disassembly. Use caution while working through access opening. The edges are sharp. Only tools needed are phillips screwdriver, deep socket for lug nuts. Nut driver optional. Hope this is helpful.
Read more...
Your Price
$10.96
In Stock
Freezer Door Key
PartSelect Number PS1991481
Manufacturer Part Number 297147700
This freezer door key is designed for use with most upright and chest freezers. It is an authentic OEM replacement part. Your appliance has a lid or door that locks and unlocks, this key controls that function. If your key is lost or damaged this is the replacement you need. Be sure to store this key someplace safe, we also recommend that you store it away from the freezer. This part is made of plastic, is white in color, and it is sold individually.
Fixes these symptoms
- Frost buildup
- See more...
Installation Instructions
CHARLOTTE from SEDALIA, MO
replacement freezer keys
I accidently threw away both freezer keys to our upright Gibson and G.E. Freezers!!!! I had no luck finding replacements locally, so I got on the internet and came across PartSelect.com. I called them on the telephone; and after giving the model numbers of my freezers, the keys were on their way!! I received the keys very quickly and both worked perfectly. I would highly recommend Partselect.com. Charlotte M. Bishop
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Appliance Type
- Kelvinator Dehumidifier Parts
- Kelvinator Dishwasher Parts
- Kelvinator Dryer Parts
- Kelvinator Freezer Parts
- Kelvinator Parts
- Kelvinator Range Parts
- Kelvinator Refrigerator Parts
- Kelvinator Washer Parts
Popular Kelvinator Air Conditioner Models
Below are the most popular Kelvinator Air Conditioner models we have. Enter your model number in the search box to find your model.
