General Electric Washer Drums and Tubs
Popular General Electric Washer Drums and Tubs
Your Price
$14.40
Special Order
General Electric Washer Drum Bearing Slide - Green (Sold individually)
PartSelect Number PS6447706
Manufacturer Part Number WE1M1067
This original equipment manufacturer Drum Bearing Slide is a plastic, green, easy-to-install part for your dryer. It replaces the dryer's front drum slide to allow for easier movement. You'll know if this part is an issue if your dryer is unable to tumble properly or is very noisy. Damage can come from regular use. As the slides start to break down it may cause your dryer to make noise or not dry clothes in the usual amount of time. You will need to purchase two for both sides of your dryer. They attach to the outer-most sides of the bearing. The manufacturer recommends replacing both slides at the same time. Take this opportunity to clean out the lint and dust in the dryer, to keep it running smoothly. This is a genuine replacement part that comes directly from the manufacturer. This item is sold individually. The part attaches to the outermost side of the bearing. Although this part is denoted as being "Green" in its title, many users and technicians have noted that its true colour is closer to a dark gray or black.
Fixes these symptoms
- Marks left on clothes
- Noisy
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Installation Instructions
Matthew from Plainfield, IL
Due to over loading of the dryer the drum ruined the slides and was making a bad noise due to plastic rubbing plastic
It was pretty easy. After already taking apart the dryer to install a new belt I knew exactly my plan of action. I removed the two screws that hold the top panel of the dryer to the front panel. I then removed the top panel and removed the screws that hold the front to each side panel. I than pulled the front away from the cabinet and drum. I put the new slides in place and installed a new felt strip. I put it back together and that was that. Very easy.
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Your Price
$18.57
In Stock
General Electric Washer Drum Bearing Slide - White (Sold individually)
PartSelect Number PS755842
Manufacturer Part Number WE1M504
This authentic, white Drum Bearing Slide, also known as the bearing drum slide, glide, or pad, is a plastic, easy-to-install part for your dryer. It replaces the dryer's front drum slide to allow for easier movement. You'll know if this part is an issue if your dryer is unable to tumble properly or is very noisy. Damage can come from regular use. The part attaches to the outermost side of the bearing. Check both slides for signs of wear, because they often wear at the same rate, and should be replaced at the same time; there are 2 of these particular slides per dryer. This part is sold individually, so you'll need to purchase multiple parts if replacing both at the same time.
Fixes these symptoms
- Marks left on clothes
- Noisy
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Matthew from Plainfield, IL
Due to over loading of the dryer the drum ruined the slides and was making a bad noise due to plastic rubbing plastic
It was pretty easy. After already taking apart the dryer to install a new belt I knew exactly my plan of action. I removed the two screws that hold the top panel of the dryer to the front panel. I then removed the top panel and removed the screws that hold the front to each side panel. I than pulled the front away from the cabinet and drum. I put the new slides in place and installed a new felt strip. I put it back together and that was that. Very easy.
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Your Price
$34.77
In Stock
General Electric Washer Upper Drum Glide
What I would add to previous reviews is to pull the front off or the little acces grill in back and check to see what kind of belt you have. According to the model #, It showed the wide flat belt when in fact I had the smaller ribbed belt. Glad I checked before ordering.
A few things that will make your life easier is once you have the old upper guide/seal removed, put down the glue then use several med sized plastic spring clamps to hold the seal in place while the glue sets up, (@ 20-30 min). Their cheap and you should have some around anyway. When replacing the seals I would go ahead and replace the belt too. It's cheap and if your machine is 5+ yrs old probably is worn. Total cost of repair was about $60 (inc shipping). Took about 1 hr 20 min total time. Most of that time was scrapping the old seal material/ glue off the dryer front. Actual disassembly and repair maybe 1/2 hour. Other little tip is the clips for the lid of dryer is to use a flat screwdriver and gently push straight in until it's compressed enough to release the lid, it will pop up when pushed in far enough. That one took me a while to figure out.
Thanks to Part Select for such a helpful site. My dryer is like new again. Read more...
PartSelect Number PS470317
Manufacturer Part Number 5303937139
The upper drum glide is attached to the front panel of your dryer, you can locate it by removing the top portion of your dryer. The drum glide allows the drum to rotate with ease and little sound. The front upper felt glide pad with three nylon glides also includes adhesive, essential for mounting accurately. For this project you will need a putty knife, Phillips screwdriver, and a wire brush. This repair is meant to fix issues such as an abnormal amount of noise or the dryer not tumbling as it should. Consider replacing your belt at the same time if you have a dryer more than 5 years old, as it is likely worn.
Fixes these symptoms
- Marks left on clothes
- Noisy
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Installation Instructions
Matthew from Portland, OR
Clothes getting scorch marks, drum noise
First and foremost, I read the repair reviews here at parts source and found that a) Other people had the same symptoms, b)following their repair tips made it super easy.What I would add to previous reviews is to pull the front off or the little acces grill in back and check to see what kind of belt you have. According to the model #, It showed the wide flat belt when in fact I had the smaller ribbed belt. Glad I checked before ordering.
A few things that will make your life easier is once you have the old upper guide/seal removed, put down the glue then use several med sized plastic spring clamps to hold the seal in place while the glue sets up, (@ 20-30 min). Their cheap and you should have some around anyway. When replacing the seals I would go ahead and replace the belt too. It's cheap and if your machine is 5+ yrs old probably is worn. Total cost of repair was about $60 (inc shipping). Took about 1 hr 20 min total time. Most of that time was scrapping the old seal material/ glue off the dryer front. Actual disassembly and repair maybe 1/2 hour. Other little tip is the clips for the lid of dryer is to use a flat screwdriver and gently push straight in until it's compressed enough to release the lid, it will pop up when pushed in far enough. That one took me a while to figure out.
Thanks to Part Select for such a helpful site. My dryer is like new again. Read more...
Your Price
$90.68
In Stock
General Electric Washer Inner Tub Base Hub
PartSelect Number PS273296
Manufacturer Part Number WH45X10027
This part is the replacement inner tub base hub for your washer. It is made of metal and is approximately 15 inches in diameter. The inner tub base hub fits between the wash tub and the spin basket, and it holds the spin basket on the gear case shaft. The main reason you would want to replace the hub, is if the washer will not agitate, or if you notice excessive noise or shaking when the washer is in use. Be sure to disconnect the washer from the water and power sources before you begin this repair. This part is sold individually and is and OEM part from the manufacturer.
Fixes these symptoms
- Will not agitate
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Installation Instructions
Joe from Lucedale, MS
The Hub Under the Spinner basket broken/ Deteriorated
Removed front cover, Control panel, top Cover, slasher unit, all very smiple stuff. the hub was broken and the spinner basket came right out. One half Hub attached to Spinner, Other half attached to Hub drive shaft. removing the Hub nut was the hard part. tried impack & socket, No luck. in removal. Had to usr Hammer & Chisel and bust Old Alum. Nut off. Clean up and replace parts. OK. Had to remove water pump and clear debree that went in pump when spinner Hub broke off . the spinner also bursted a crack in the outer poly tube when it cam apart.. Sanded the dmage area and Patched with a good coat of JB Weld. machine is working Like new. The parts all worked Great. the break down Chart was a great Help to get the right parts needed. Thanks
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Your Price
$106.80
Special Order
General Electric Washer Outer Tub
PartSelect Number PS9493102
Manufacturer Part Number WH45X20473
This part holds the water during the wash cycle and houses the spin basket.
Fixes these symptoms
- Leaking
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Installation Instructions
John from Shady Point, OK
washer was leaking (noticed during spin cycle)
Took complete tub assembly out of washer and inspected it. Did not find an obvious cause of leak but all 8 screws on inner tub hub were loose. As both tub nut and split ring were corroded, replaced them and the outer tub seal. Did a lot of cleaning!! As I was putting the trans assy back on the outer tub, I noticed a crack around the drain spout. At 1st, it looked like it belonged there but a closer look proved it didn't. I ordered a new outer tub (which came in 2 days) and I put the whole thing back together. Reassembly was far easier than disassembly was and I learned a whole lot about washers. YouTube is a great source of information.
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General Electric Washer RING BALANCE Assembly
Parts select was very helpful. Sent me instructions to repair the washer and replaced defective parts from shipping within 2 days. VERY GOOD EXPERIENCE Read more...
PartSelect Number PS8757351
Manufacturer Part Number WH45X10138
Installation Instructions
Regis from SAN MARTIN, CA
TUB OUT OF BALANCE
Replaced the balance ring on the tub but the main tub was cracked and could not be repaired.Parts select was very helpful. Sent me instructions to repair the washer and replaced defective parts from shipping within 2 days. VERY GOOD EXPERIENCE Read more...
General Electric Washer TRUNNION
2. Using my fingers, I released the tabs that connect the tub cover to the tub. It took some effort to remove the cap("Mechanism") over the bolt connecting the agitator to the agitator drive block because I didn't want to break the tab. Once removed, I removed the bolt and the agitator. I then removed the two bolts that clamp the Trunnion to the agitator shaft.
3. It took a little more effort to remove the tub because of corrosion, however, by rocking the tub back and forth I was able to work it free and remove it. I then removed the bolts connecting the Trunnion to the tub. It took a hammer to remove the Trunnion from the tub, once again because of corrosion.
4. After removing the tub, the seal assembly was next and it was easy to remove. I cleaned the agitator shaft with steel wool before beginning the reassembly to remove the corrosion. Before installing the new seal, I lubricated the agitator shaft and the inside of the seal with a silicone grease that is normally used for water faucets. The seal installed easily although care was required to insure that the seal did not twist out of place when sliding it down the agitator shaft.
5. The rest of the reassembly went easily. Since my old filter on the bottom of the tub was clogged, I replaced it with a new one. It took a little time to get every tab on the filter aligned properly so that it could be rotated into place, but it went easily. Everything else reassembled with no problems.
6. It took considerable time to figure out how to replace the drive belt idler arm assembly because I could not figure out how to remove the pin that the idler arm pivots on. I finally reviewed the parts list on-line again and determined that there is a small C-clip that holds it together. Once I knew that. I was able to see the clip and remove it. From that point on, it was very easy to remove the old assembly and reinstall the new one. If I had to do it over again, I would have changed the sleeve at the same time that I changed the idler assembly because the assembly still wobbles on the pin more than I would like. However, it works fine so I won't worry about it until other repairs are needed.
The parts that I ordered from Parts Select were exact matches for the parts that I removed. They were in stock and were shipped the next business day. I would rate the repair as very easy. Read more...
PartSelect Number PS418105
Manufacturer Part Number 131545101
This part helps with the spinning and agitating cycles.
Fixes these symptoms
- Leaking
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Rick from Walkerton, IN
The primary problem was that the tub seal assembly was leaking.
1. I began by removing the two screws that hold the front panel in place. I then lifted the top free of the front panel and tilted it back to get it out of the way.2. Using my fingers, I released the tabs that connect the tub cover to the tub. It took some effort to remove the cap("Mechanism") over the bolt connecting the agitator to the agitator drive block because I didn't want to break the tab. Once removed, I removed the bolt and the agitator. I then removed the two bolts that clamp the Trunnion to the agitator shaft.
3. It took a little more effort to remove the tub because of corrosion, however, by rocking the tub back and forth I was able to work it free and remove it. I then removed the bolts connecting the Trunnion to the tub. It took a hammer to remove the Trunnion from the tub, once again because of corrosion.
4. After removing the tub, the seal assembly was next and it was easy to remove. I cleaned the agitator shaft with steel wool before beginning the reassembly to remove the corrosion. Before installing the new seal, I lubricated the agitator shaft and the inside of the seal with a silicone grease that is normally used for water faucets. The seal installed easily although care was required to insure that the seal did not twist out of place when sliding it down the agitator shaft.
5. The rest of the reassembly went easily. Since my old filter on the bottom of the tub was clogged, I replaced it with a new one. It took a little time to get every tab on the filter aligned properly so that it could be rotated into place, but it went easily. Everything else reassembled with no problems.
6. It took considerable time to figure out how to replace the drive belt idler arm assembly because I could not figure out how to remove the pin that the idler arm pivots on. I finally reviewed the parts list on-line again and determined that there is a small C-clip that holds it together. Once I knew that. I was able to see the clip and remove it. From that point on, it was very easy to remove the old assembly and reinstall the new one. If I had to do it over again, I would have changed the sleeve at the same time that I changed the idler assembly because the assembly still wobbles on the pin more than I would like. However, it works fine so I won't worry about it until other repairs are needed.
The parts that I ordered from Parts Select were exact matches for the parts that I removed. They were in stock and were shipped the next business day. I would rate the repair as very easy. Read more...
General Electric Washer BASKET Assembly
PartSelect Number PS3493690
Manufacturer Part Number WH45X10090
General Electric Washer COVER TUB Assembly
PartSelect Number PS3652851
Manufacturer Part Number WH45X10134
General Electric Washer Tub Cover - White
PartSelect Number PS10055837
Manufacturer Part Number WH49X21274
This cover goes on top of the balance ring that is located on top of the basket.
Installation Instructions
David from Rancho Cucamonga, CA
Broken Support Tab
Removed front cover, lifted lid. Unnapped the broken tub cover pulling the tub forward to allow the old cover to clear the rear of the housing/top. Installed the new tub cover by once again doing the same thing and carefully snapping it into place. Reconnected the rubber sping offloads, lowered the top and reinstalled the front cover..ready to run.
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