Crosley Dryer Seals and Gaskets

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Popular Crosley Dryer Seals and Gaskets

Your Price
$57.53
  On Order
Rear Drum Felt Seal
★★★★★
★★★★★
(28)
PartSelect Number PS8691753
Manufacturer Part Number W10612022
This seals Includes adhesive. This part helps seal the drum to prevent hot air from escaping.
Fixes these symptoms
  • Marks left on clothes
  • No heat or not enough heat
  • Noisy
  • See more...
Installation Instructions
Paul from Monmouth, IL
intermittant heat
First I shut off the gas supply and disconnected the dryer vent and unpluged the unit so you can access the rear of the dryer. Then I removed the rear cover. This is where you will find your thermostats and fuses. Holding the new part next to the one to be replaced I transfer the wires one at a time so as not to get them mixed up, then unscrew the old part and install the new one. Insert a flat blade screwdriver under the top cover in the 2 front corners to unsnap it from it's clips, also at this time you need to remove the 2 screws that hold the upper part of the lint filter tube to the lid, then lift the lid to expose the drum ( I tilted the dryer back as far as the flex gas line would allow me to and rested the top lid against the wall without removing it, to many wires). Behind the front cover in the top right corner is the plug for the door switch,un-plug it and also there are 2 screws one in each corner. After that lift the front cover straight up and pull it away from the cabinet ( it has clips at the bottom to hold it in place). Reaching under the drum on the right side pull down on the belt tensioner and release the belt from the motor then you can remove the drum. Laying the drum down on it's front edge I removed the rear felt seal and took a piece of sand paper to rough up th old glue and clean off some of the felt that was still stuck to the drum. Following the directions from the seal package I put the glue around the edge of the drum and re-installed the new felt. This is a good time to clean out your dryer, while the glue sets up. A shop vac works the best, but be carefull not to suck up the money, it will help pay for the repair ( I found over a dollar in change ). At this time I also changed the coils on the gas valve, remove the 2 screws that hold the clamp and replace them one at a time. Re-install the drum with the belt on it, fold it and push it through the tensioner and put it on the motor pulley. rotate the drum to make sure that the felt is not kinked under itself, re-install the front cover bottom clips first, then the 2 screws and the plug for the door switch, pull down the lid and snap it in place, before installing the rear cover this is a good time to remove the rear cover to the lint chute and clean in there also ( it's easy to see why there are so many dryer fires). Re- install that cover and the rear cover and vent tube, turn your gas back on and check it for leaks ( even if you didn't disconnect it) plug your dryer back in and get busy catching up on the laundry that you haven't had a chance to do because your dryer broke, then smile and think about all the money you saved by doing this simple repair your self. Thanks Parts Select Read more...
Your Price
$7.09
  In Stock
Lint Trap Housing Seal
★★★★★
★★★★★
(8)
PartSelect Number PS11741506
Manufacturer Part Number WP339956
This is foam seal for your dryer. It forms a seal to prevent air from escaping the rear of the dryer drum and the lint duct. This model comes with adhesive backing and is located in between the lint chute and the bulkhead of your appliance. This foam seal is just over 28 inches long and under 1 inch wide. You may need to replace this part if your clothing is taking too long to dry, or if your dryer is not generating enough heat or no heat at all.
Fixes these symptoms
  • No heat or not enough heat
  • Noisy
  • Takes too long to dry
  • See more...
Installation Instructions
Eric from Fort Dodge, IA
dryer drum not turning and no air circulating
replaced motor and drum rear seal as well as idler wheels, the old rear drum seal was completly worn out, since I had it all apart, I replaced lint chute and trap seals and belt and tensioner. I spent less money on parts than if I would have bought a new dryer. The motor was the main problem as the bearings were shot. Read more...
Your Price
$45.62
  In Stock
Door Gasket
★★★★★
★★★★★
(11)
PartSelect Number PS11731610
Manufacturer Part Number W10861521
This door seal does not include the adhesive glue.
Fixes these symptoms
  • No heat or not enough heat
  • Takes too long to dry
  • See more...
Installation Instructions
Manolak from MURFREESBORO, TN
Door Gasket tore out
Put high temperature glue on first, then put door gasket over the high temperature glue and then let it set for 24 hours. It worked fine.... Read more...
Your Price
$23.94
  In Stock
Lower Front Felt Seal with Adhesive
★★★★★
★★★★★
(5)
PartSelect Number PS832645
Manufacturer Part Number 5303937183
The lower front felt seal with adhesive, also known as a drum felt seal, is used in dyers and allows the drum to easily glide on the front panel. For this repair project, you will need the following tools: #2 Phillips screw driver, #2 square head screw driver, putty knife, and wire bush. If your dryer will not tumble, or makes a squeaking noise when running, replacing this part could solve the problem. Remember to unplug your appliance from the power source for safety before you begin this installation project. Refer to the manual provided by the manufacturer for further installation instructions.
Fixes these symptoms
  • Marks left on clothes
  • Noisy
  • Takes too long to dry
  • See more...
Installation Instructions
Timothy from Pensacola, FL
Felt pulling apart and glide not secured
For the glide, I want to advise people that to replace the entire glide you need to order two front drum glide parts as each is only half.

First, unplug the dryer. Then, open the top so that you can get access to the work area. On each side of the inside front, there is a screw that connects the front panel to the side panels. Unscrew those screws and pull the front panel until it disconnects from the side panels. Be careful as there are wires that are secured to the bottom of the top inside lip of the front panel. One set of wires goes to the light bulb in the dryer door. You don't need to disconnect the wires, but be sure you don't damage the wires by pulling the front panel too far away from the dryer.

Once you have the front panel out of the way, you can see the front drum glide. In my case, one half was loose as the plastic plugs that pop into recesses to hold the glide in place had broken off. Remove the damaged glide section and replace it with the new section, popping the plastic plugs into the recesses. Don't be afraid to slap the glide to lock the plugs in place.

For the felt, I cut the part of the old felt that was pulling away from the front panel. I then used a flat-head screwdriver and wire brush to remove as much of the old adhesive as I could. Then, using the high-heat adhesive that came with the new felt, I put a generous amount on the front panel where the felt needed to go. I used a toothpick to spread the adhesive to get maximum area coverage. I let it set for a minute or two, and then placed the new felt. I used small clamps to keep the felt in place until the adhesive had time to bond. I only kept the clamps in place for 10 minutes.

Once I removed the clamps, I let the felt continue to adhere to the front panel for 24 hours before reassembling the dryer. Again, be careful of the wires connected to the front panel as it appears very easy for them to be pinched or cut when putting the front panel back in place.

When the dryer was reassembled, I plugged it back in and have had no more troubles.
Read more...
Your Price
$44.41
  In Stock
Dryer Drum Seal with Adhesive
★★★★★
★★★★★
(12)
PartSelect Number PS970088
Manufacturer Part Number 280114
This drum seal with a silicone rubber adhesive is used in dryers. This part seals the drum to make sure air does not escape from the dryer. If your dryer is making loud noises, is not producing enough heat, or no heat at all, or there are marks left on your clothes, replacing the seal on your dryer can solve the problem. The tools needed for this installation project are: 1/4 inch nut driver, Phillips screwdriver, small flat blade screwdriver, and putty knife. Remember to unplug your dryer from the power source before beginning this installation project. Refer to the manual provided by the manufacturer for installation instructions.
Fixes these symptoms
  • Marks left on clothes
  • No heat or not enough heat
  • Noisy
  • See more...
Installation Instructions
Jerry from Everett, WA
Rear tub seal failure
I removed the top cover and then the back cover, released the belt tensioner and removed the drive belt. Then slid the tub out of the unit and onto the back dack. Sanded the remnents of the old seal off. Wiped the tub lip with laquer thinner and applied the "fast" drying glue supplied with the kit. Installed the seal and re-assembled the unit...works fine Read more...
Your Price
$15.85
  In Stock
GASKET
★★★★★
★★★★★
(8)
PartSelect Number PS8689127
Manufacturer Part Number 137553402
This is a gasket, but you may also know it as a door seal, for your dryer. This part prevents heat loss during a drying cycle by keeping the area around the door sealed. This gasket is all black, and is made of extremely flexible material. The surface of this part is roughly half an inch wide, and a quarter inch thick. One side of the material is smooth, while the other side has clips to make your installation easier.
Fixes these symptoms
Installation Instructions
Sandra from DULUTH, MN
Door seal/gasket coming off of dryer door. Could not make it stay as designed.
This was the easiest repair ever done. Pulled out old seal/gasket and popped in new one. Took about 2 minutes. Be sure to mark where ends of new door seal (gasket) starts and ends when removing the old one. Read more...
Your Price
$18.66
  In Stock
Dryer Drum Felt Seal
★★★★★
★★★★★
(3)
PartSelect Number PS11741074
Manufacturer Part Number WP33001807
This is a drum felt seal for your dryer. It creates an airtight seal between the dryer rear panel and the back of the drum. It is important that this seal be flexible so it does not interfere with the function of the appliance. This model may be used for the front or the rear of your appliance. Take note that the adhesive is not included. The most common reason for needing to repair this part is if your dryer will not tumble, or there is not enough heat to properly dry your clothing.
Fixes these symptoms
  • Marks left on clothes
  • No heat or not enough heat
  • Noisy
  • See more...
Installation Instructions
Edward from Pike Road, AL
The dryer was making a terrible noise that sounded like bearings squealing.
I've never even opened this dryer before so I looked at one of the installation videos PartSelect has. I found one using my model, which made it really easy. I removed the front panel and door, then lifted the top of the dryer up on it's hinges: that's a great feature because you need the top out of the way to remove the drum. I took the belt off the drum, lifted it up and pulled it straight out. I did buy a pair of snap ring pliers to remove the snap ring off the drum support shaft. I think you really must have those to remove and replace the rings. Be careful when removing the snap rings. I shot the first one across the room like it was a rubber band. We had a good laugh. I used a wrench to hold the nut on the backside of the roller shaft and unscrewed it. I screwed the new roller shafts on, slipped the drum rollers on them, then carefully used the snap ring pliers to place the rings on the front of the shaft to hold the rollers on. While I had the unit opened up, I figured I should go ahead and replace the multi rib belt. I put the ribbed side on the drum and sat the drum on the rollers . The tricky part is now getting down on the ground, reaching under the drum for the belt. Make sure the belt isn't twisted anywhere on the drum or in your hands while you pull the belt under the idler pulley. Hold the belt ribbed sides together while feeding the belt under the pulley. It takes a good deal of strength to move the pulley over so you can hook the end of the belt on the shaft. Once you've gotten that attached, put your hand inside the drum and rotate it a few times to make sure you connected it properly and that you placed the belt in the right spot on the drum. It was easy to see the black stripe around the drum where I'd taken off the old one. Read more...
Your Price
$31.87
  In Stock
Cylinder Felt Seal
★★★★★
★★★★★
(9)
PartSelect Number PS11741917
Manufacturer Part Number WP37001132
This cylinder felt seal is used in dryers and is located between the back of the drum and the rear dryer panel. If your dryer is experiencing any of these symptoms, replacing the felt seal could solve your problem: squealing or banging noise, clothes are getting stuck between tub and felt pad, takes too long to dry, not heating enough or not heat at all, or does not tumble. The tools needed for this installation are a 5/16 nut driver and a putty knife. Make sure to unplug the dryer from the power source before beginning this project. Refer to the manual provided by the manufacturer for further instructions.
Fixes these symptoms
  • Marks left on clothes
  • No heat or not enough heat
  • Noisy
  • See more...
Installation Instructions
Tim from South Glens Falls, NY
The Felt Gasket between drum and door ripped, vent manifold from Dryer to fan and lint screen broken
I pulled the bottom panel and the door panel to replace the manifold and felt gasket around the drum. I removed old gasket very easily, it peeled right off. I use brake cleaning fluid (Spray Can from Auto Zone about $1.45) to remove old glue. Used spray contact cement (Elmer's about 4.50 at Ace) and sprayed the panel and gasket surfaces and let dry. I then applied a 2nd coat and let get "tacky" and installed the gasket. You will need an extra set of hands to hold the gasket in place while you stretch it over the the panel. The vent manifold is held in place with 3 phillips screws and was installed in about 10 minutes. The only gripe I had was in the Parts-Select illustrated breakdown they don't tell you the lint screen comes with the manifold assembly, so I bought one of them too. Now have an extra lint screen Read more...
Your Price
$51.66
  In Stock
SEAL-DOOR
★★★★★
★★★★★
(3)
PartSelect Number PS11766744
Manufacturer Part Number W10906683
Fixes these symptoms
Installation Instructions
alice from wickliffe, OH
seal came of dryer door
romoved from pkg. and fit it to the door. no tools needed. best of all the part came in 24 hrs and was fixed with out delay of waiting from a store that was out of our area. great costumer service!!!!! Read more...
Your Price
$44.88
  In Stock
Seal and Bearing
★★★★★
★★★★★
(4)
PartSelect Number PS11773177
Manufacturer Part Number W11035878
This front panel seal kit doesn't include the plastic retainers, reuse the old retainers. No glue is needed, the seal stretches to fit.
Fixes these symptoms
  • Marks left on clothes
  • Noisy
  • Takes too long to dry
  • See more...
Installation Instructions
Stephen from Springfield, MA
Dryer making loud squealing noise when running
The (front) bearing and seal are not metal parts but a fabric and and mesh like material. It is somewhat like a fabric belt made to hold up a pair of trousers. The belt sits in a channel that goes around the door on the inside of the front panel. To get to the combination bearing/seal you remove two screws that are located under the cover of the lint trap. These have to be removed to lift the top. Then using a putty knife or screw driver you must pop the top (which snaps down on plastic clips) at the front corners. The top lifts up and folds back on hinges. The front is attached to the sides by one screw on each side near the top. A nut driver will remove then easily. Once the 2 screws are removed lift the front panel about 2 inches to disengage the front panel from the clips that hold the front attached to the sides near the bottom. When you remove the front panel the dryer drum will literally fall out so you want to get hold of it before pulling the front panel away so it isn't damaged and and doesn't damage the gas burner assembly which is under the drum to the left side. The drum is very light. I supported it with an empty shoe box while the front was off.
Once the front is off you'll see the bearing/seal on the inside of the front panel and it will be obvious how to remove the old one and place the new one. There are three pegs on the front panel that receive the three holes in the fabric bearing/seal. The seal will stay in place while you remove the shoe box and put the front cover back on. The drum fits over the seal like a lid on a jar and just slides on the fabric when the drum rotates. Low tech but the drums slides easily on the bearing material and seems to last a long time.

I also did the rear dryer seal. This is similar to the front. To do this you follow the procedure above but to get to the real seal you will have to remove the drum. It will fall out on its own if the front panel is removed. The drive belt goes around the drum. It is about 3/8th of and wide and just wraps around the drum without any teeth or channels or anything. Let the belt fall to the bottom as you lift the drum forward and out of the cabinet. The drum is light. Just put it on the floor and strip off the old rear seal which is glued on. It too is fabric. Clean up the drum a little and fit the new seal on the drum. Once the seal is on the drum you can lift the edge of the fabric seal and glue the fabric flange to the drum. This becomes pretty obvious once you have the seal on the drum. If you put the glue on the drum first you will make a mess. Put the seal on properly and the lift the edge to apply the adhesive all the way around. The adhesive sets enough in a hour or so. Put the drum back in and replace the front panel. Don't forget the drive belt. It goes around the drive motor that is located on the bottom of the dryer on the right, around or over an idler pulley (my older model does not have a idler wheel but rather a bracket with a "slide" that the belt runs over that keeps sufficient tension on the belt to drive the drum. If your belt falls off the motor and the idler pulley falls out it may be confusing how the belt goes in. My idler bracket is held in slots on the bottom of the cabinet merely by the tension of the belt - no screws or anything. I suggest that you put the belt around the drum first, then the drive motor. You will have slack in the belt and it becomes a little more obvious how the idler pulley (which is mounted on spring steel) goes in and takes up that slack and keeps modest tension on the belt. The rubber side of the belt goes against the drum, the leathery side is the outside.
Read more...

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