Parts That Fix Maytag Refrigerator MZD2766GES Ice maker not making ice
Ice maker not making ice is a commonly reported symptom for the MZD2766GES Maytag Refrigerator, and we have put together a full guide on how to fix this. This advice is based on feedback from people who own this exact appliance. We have listed the most common parts for your MZD2766GES Maytag Refrigerator that will fix Ice maker not making ice. We have included repair instructions, and helpful step-by-step video tutorials. If you are experiencing this issue, not to worry, DIYers just like you have fixed this, and shared their experience to help you!
Fixes Symptom 77% of time
This ice maker (Ice Maker Assembly, Refrigerator Ice Maker) produces ice cubes that are ejected into the storage bucket. It is located in the freezer section of your appliance, mounted on the freezer wall. The ice maker can break from normal wear and accidental damage. If this happens, your refrigerator may no longer make ice cubes, or may not make enough cubes, and the part should be replaced. This model measures approximately 11 inches long and 5 inches wide. It’s constructed of plastic and metal, and comes in black/white/silver. This assembly includes the ice mold and the control device.
$
139.15
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS2121513
Manufacturer Part Number D7824706Q
Replacing your Amana Refrigerator Replacement Ice Maker
Customer Repair Stories
Water overflowed ice maker turnning ice bucket into solid mass of ice
My ice maker has been shedding its non-stick coating for over a year. Within the last month of so, it started pouring water into the ice bucket below, turning it into a solid mass of ice. So I purchased a new ice maker assembly. I encountered two problems not mentioned in the 21 or so do-it-yourselfer repair stories that precede this on
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e. First problem: one of the three screws that hold the ice maker to the refrigerator wall is hidden behind the large (black) end of the ice maker and is difficult to access. Before trying to replace the ice maker, make sure you have the physical dexterity to remove that screw. Second problem: it is not apparent how to remove the wire harness that plugs into the ice maker assembly. BEFORE you can remove the wire harness, you MUST remove the large white cap that covers the black end of the ice maker assembly and then push in a retaining tab to release the wire harness. If you don't do this, the wire harness will not release. Other than those two problems, it was relatively easy to remove three screws, unplug the wire harness, transfer three small, metal parts from the old ice maker to the new, plug in the new wire harness, mount the ice maker assembly so that the water tube is in the proper position, and then re-install the three screws. The ice maker works fine now. (P.S. I was told by an expert that the real problem might be a malfunctioning fill valve. I would have replaced the fill valve if replacing the ice maker assembly had not fixed the problem.)
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Harry from Grand Ledge, MI
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
269 of 364 people
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Icemaker producing few or no cubes and often leaving "kling-ons" on ice tray
Interior surface of ice tray felt rough & flaky (coating deteriorated) so cubes would not release.
Unplug appliance.
Remove timer cover by hand pressure @ edge.
Remove single attachment screw & bracket at lower front of icemaker.
Disconnect wiring harness from socket @ rear of compartment.
Tricky part was determin ... Read more ing what type of connection held the other two attachment points along the long edge of the icemaker. I did not have repair manual or useful drawing but looked @ PartsDirect pic of side brackets & used a small mirror to confirm that mine were also some sort of "snap in" attachment.
Remove icemaker unit by pushing upward and outward on the unit. I takes a good bit of pressure and will pop loose, but be careful not to break attachment bracket from freezer wall.
Scavenge shut off bar and wiring harness from old icemaker once you have it out & attach to new one before installing it back in freezer.
Again, you might find a mirror useful to align those pesky snap-in brackets with the new unit.
Since you probably kept your freezer running while waiting for the part, the plastic snap-ins will be cold and brittle. I warmed them up first by applying a dampened cloth heated in the microwave to make them a little more pliable.
A good push of the new unit towards the snap-ins along with some upward force will get it stable.
Reattach the metal screw in bracket & connect the wiring harness to rear plug... and don't forget to plug the whole thing back in.
It will take awhile for the first batch of cubes dump as the timer may need to cycle completely around to get to the fill cycle... be patient.
Dump the first couple of batches of cubes just to make sure you're free of any residue.
Unplug appliance.
Remove timer cover by hand pressure @ edge.
Remove single attachment screw & bracket at lower front of icemaker.
Disconnect wiring harness from socket @ rear of compartment.
Tricky part was determin ... Read more ing what type of connection held the other two attachment points along the long edge of the icemaker. I did not have repair manual or useful drawing but looked @ PartsDirect pic of side brackets & used a small mirror to confirm that mine were also some sort of "snap in" attachment.
Remove icemaker unit by pushing upward and outward on the unit. I takes a good bit of pressure and will pop loose, but be careful not to break attachment bracket from freezer wall.
Scavenge shut off bar and wiring harness from old icemaker once you have it out & attach to new one before installing it back in freezer.
Again, you might find a mirror useful to align those pesky snap-in brackets with the new unit.
Since you probably kept your freezer running while waiting for the part, the plastic snap-ins will be cold and brittle. I warmed them up first by applying a dampened cloth heated in the microwave to make them a little more pliable.
A good push of the new unit towards the snap-ins along with some upward force will get it stable.
Reattach the metal screw in bracket & connect the wiring harness to rear plug... and don't forget to plug the whole thing back in.
It will take awhile for the first batch of cubes dump as the timer may need to cycle completely around to get to the fill cycle... be patient.
Dump the first couple of batches of cubes just to make sure you're free of any residue.
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Bernie from Diamond Bar, CA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
801 of 885 people
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Fixes Symptom 4% of time
This valve is located behind the refrigerator. It has a 1/4" compression inlet fitting. This part is a solenoid-operated switch that, when activated, releases water from the supply line to the water valve and into the compact icemaker mold.
$
113.99
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS2060970
Manufacturer Part Number 61005626
Replacing your Maytag Refrigerator Double Inlet Water Valve
Customer Repair Stories
Ice maker over flowing
My ice maker was overflowing and i realized that it was the water valve that needed replaced. unscrewed 1 nut, unhooked 3 water lines, unhooked electrical components and re-installed in reverse order. took about 10-15 mins.
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ben from manhattan, KS
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers
13 of 16 people
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Ice Maker had quit due to faulty valve
Repair work was very easy. Water supply was to the icemaker/water dispenser. After removing the outer fiber cover with a screwdriver, the valve was removed by unscrewing one nut. Post removal water lines were removed with a ordinary pair of scissors approximately 1/2" from where it entered the faulty valve. the two electrical connecti
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ons were then removed from the faulty valve. The water lines were then connected to the replacement water valve very easily by just inserting and applying a small amount of pressure. The electrical connections were then connected, replacement valve reattatched to the frame work (fit perfectly). After this I turned on the water and BINGO ice :) Post knowing the replacement valve worked I re-attached the fiber cover and pushed the refrigerator back in it respective location. Again this repair was very easy and the part arrived sooner than expected.
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Brian from Imperial, CA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
65 of 76 people
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Fixes Symptom 4% of time
This refrigerator ice maker fill cup dispenses the water into the ice cube mold during the fill cycle. Replacing the water fill cup is a possible solution if you notice that the ice maker is leaking, or not making/dispensing ice. If you notice the fill cup has been damaged or cracked; replace the part straight away. This water fill cup is a genuine OEM part and will fit most refrigerators, but check the list of compatible brands to make sure yours is included before purchasing.
$
40.40
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11743318
Manufacturer Part Number WP628356
Replacing your Kenmore Refrigerator Water Fill Cup and Bearing
Customer Repair Stories
Icemaker arm was broken
The tiny piece of plastic that holds the wire that shuts off the icemaker, broke early on with our fridge (after just a few months.) We superglued it, but last week it bit the dust for good.
Once I got this part, I removed the freezer door and trays, and pulled the icemaker out by removing 3 flathead screws and unplugging the c ... Read more ables. Laying in the freezer on the floor was a bit unconfortable, but not too bad.
Then I inspected the icemaker. There was no obvious way to remove the part without disassembling the front of the unit (where the motor is) to release the spindle and free the part, so I did that - 3 or 4 nuts was all that held it together. Once that was out, I removed the spindle, swapped out the part, and put it all back together and back in the freezer. Plugged it in and waited.
It took a while to start making ice. Like 5 hours. Now it's going pretty slow (much slower than before.) Haven't had time to look into it, but my suspicion is the rubber hose that feeds water into the icemaker is blocked with ice or kinked. In any case, we have ice now (but not a lot), and the unit shuts itself off properly. However, we went from having too much ice (thing never shut off) to too little (thing makes ice too slow), so I need to shoot for somewhere in the middle ;)
Once I got this part, I removed the freezer door and trays, and pulled the icemaker out by removing 3 flathead screws and unplugging the c ... Read more ables. Laying in the freezer on the floor was a bit unconfortable, but not too bad.
Then I inspected the icemaker. There was no obvious way to remove the part without disassembling the front of the unit (where the motor is) to release the spindle and free the part, so I did that - 3 or 4 nuts was all that held it together. Once that was out, I removed the spindle, swapped out the part, and put it all back together and back in the freezer. Plugged it in and waited.
It took a while to start making ice. Like 5 hours. Now it's going pretty slow (much slower than before.) Haven't had time to look into it, but my suspicion is the rubber hose that feeds water into the icemaker is blocked with ice or kinked. In any case, we have ice now (but not a lot), and the unit shuts itself off properly. However, we went from having too much ice (thing never shut off) to too little (thing makes ice too slow), so I need to shoot for somewhere in the middle ;)
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Jason from Austin, TX
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
32 of 44 people
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The Bearing Cup Assembly was broken and ice would jamb against it during the ice making cycle.
I removed the ice maker from the refrigerator, by removing one screw on the underside bracket and loosening the two screws at the top side, then lifting the ice maker off the loosened screws. I then unplugged the electrical harness that supplies power from the refrigerator to the ice maker. I then disassembled the ice maker by removing
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the front cover which is snapped in place, then removing two recessed screws at the front. I removed the broken part, I then reassembled the ice maker with the new part. I replaced the two recessed screws at the front and snapped on the cover. Then I reinstalled the ice maker in the refrigator by plugging in the harness, slipping the ice maker over the loosened screws in the refrigerator and replacing the screw that was removed from the underside bracket. Tightening all the screws completed the project.
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David from Chester, CA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
107 of 133 people
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Fixes Symptom 4% of time
The ice maker thermostat, also known as the cycling thermostat, controls and regulates the ice maker ejection cycle by monitoring the temperature inside the freezer to determine when to release the ice into the bin and start the ice making cycle again. If your ice maker is making unusual noises, or if the ice maker is not making or dispensing ice, there could be an issue with the thermostat. Before you begin this repair, make sure the power is disconnected from your refrigerator, and that any food that may spoil is safely stored. This is an OEM part and is sourced directly from the manufacturer. This thermostat is sold individually, and comes with two attachment clips.
$
62.09
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11743313
Manufacturer Part Number WP627985
Replacing your Kenmore Refrigerator Cycling thermostat
Customer Repair Stories
ice maker did not make ice
The ice maker was not getting water. I hotwired the water valve by switching the connectors for the water dispenser and ice maker water valves and water flowed into the icemaker when the water dispenser lever was pushed. I wronly assumed the water valve was good. I removed the icemaker and determined that the gear motor was not getting po
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wer in the position the icemaker had stopped.In this position, the thermostat determines when the motor gets power so I replaced the thermostat. The icemaker still would not get water! As it turns out, the water solenoid was sticking due to a deteriorated rubber washer which let the solenoid plunger get too far out of the magnetic field. I replaced the water solenoid assy and all is well. Don't get fooled by hotwiring the valve. If it isn't getting water, the solenoid probably is the culprit.
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DAVID from TINLEY PARK, IL
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
47 of 61 people
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No ice in ice trey
The easiest thing to do was pull the ice make off. After taking the 3 screws out of the wall of the freezer, take a screwdriver (flathead) and push on the tab for the electrical plug and wiggle the cord out. Then you can take 3 screws out for the main cover and another 2 screws on the next cover. There's the part, pop it out and replace h
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olding pins and start the process of putting back together the opposite way you took it apart.
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Wayne from Leesburg, FL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
78 of 100 people
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5 ARM-SHUT
Fixes Symptom 2% of time
This ice level arm, also known as an ice shutoff arm, is designed to detect the level of ice within the ice bin of your ice maker or refrigerator and turn it off when enough ice has been made. When the ice maker is empty, the arm will be down. When the ice maker is full, the arm will be raised, and over time, wear and tear to the level arm can cause the ice maker to stop making ice completely. To replace this arm, unplug your appliance and remove the ice making assembly, then pull the levelling arm out of the assembly and place the new one. Consisting of a long, angled metal arm and a plastic flap, this level arm is a genuine OEM part that is compatible with a wide-range of refrigerators and icemakers and measures at approximately 9-inches by 4.5-inches.
$
46.15
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS12712096
Manufacturer Part Number W11342242
Replacing your Whirlpool Refrigerator ARM-SHUT
Customer Repair Stories
Ice maker was over producing
Technician at ASK suggested replacing ice maker. Ordered new ice maker(prompt delevery)then noticed it came without wire arm and white platic "flag". Ordered arm and "flag", replaced all old with new and seems to be doing well. Perhaps all I needed was the plastic "flag" on the limit arm wire. Will never know. The new icemaker wiring had
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short wires and a connector. Old ice maker had no connector so the short wires were removed and the old wires plugged into the ice maker. Mirror was required in order to see the side wall mounting screws. Very narrow work area, tiny freezer side.
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Gregory from Milford, OH
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
6 of 8 people
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shut off arm broke
open ice maker door, use mirror to view slot in front of ice maker, slip piece in place and done
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Thomas from Va. Beach, VA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
52 of 76 people
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Fixes Symptom 1% of time
This double outlet water valve kit replaces the sometimes problematic plastic "Y" connector.
$
178.31
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS2003420
Manufacturer Part Number 12001892
Customer Repair Stories
Valve Leaking
The valve on the frig cracked when the frig was in freezing temps during a move.
The part was slightly different than the picture on the parts website due to a design change that eliminated the Y in the water line created only one connection on the valve where there used to be two. I found this out reading on other websites.
T ... Read more his design change also resulted in a part number change, but because this website had such good pics and views, I was able to determine the part was right. We received the part within 3 days and installation was easy. We eliminated the Y in the line and attached the fittings.
The part was slightly different than the picture on the parts website due to a design change that eliminated the Y in the water line created only one connection on the valve where there used to be two. I found this out reading on other websites.
T ... Read more his design change also resulted in a part number change, but because this website had such good pics and views, I was able to determine the part was right. We received the part within 3 days and installation was easy. We eliminated the Y in the line and attached the fittings.
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Betsy from Zimmerman, MN
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Wrench set
6 of 7 people
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Water dispenser and ice maker wouldn't work (bought the fridge u$ed)
I bought the following parts:
PS109042 Double Outlet Water Valve
PS46363 Dual Outlet Water Valve Kit
When I bought the fridge, the part that PS109042 replaces was cracked and leaking water badly. When I ordered the replacement part, I got confused and ordered PS46363 by mistake. The original parts look similar ... Read more even when side by side, but the replacement parts are revised drastically.
PS46363 is for the line that is between the water source and the water filter. The original lines from the filter are split (the original part has two inlets) and pipe to one inlet. You'll have to cut your hose right before it forks. The directions that come with the part are very straight-forward.
PS109042 actually distributes the filtered water to the water dispenser and icemaker. The old part had plastic fittings that held the water hosing to the part. The new part has no plastic fittings, yet holds the hosing to the part tightly. The directions that come with the part are very short and concise.
I also replaced the factory water filter with a Brita replacement (they are cheaper and I've used Brita filters before...they are solid).
All in all, I spent less than $100 on fixing a $500 used fridge that works as good as new. My wife was initially doubtful but fairly satisfied with the cost of the parts and the simplicity of installing them.
PS109042 Double Outlet Water Valve
PS46363 Dual Outlet Water Valve Kit
When I bought the fridge, the part that PS109042 replaces was cracked and leaking water badly. When I ordered the replacement part, I got confused and ordered PS46363 by mistake. The original parts look similar ... Read more even when side by side, but the replacement parts are revised drastically.
PS46363 is for the line that is between the water source and the water filter. The original lines from the filter are split (the original part has two inlets) and pipe to one inlet. You'll have to cut your hose right before it forks. The directions that come with the part are very straight-forward.
PS109042 actually distributes the filtered water to the water dispenser and icemaker. The old part had plastic fittings that held the water hosing to the part. The new part has no plastic fittings, yet holds the hosing to the part tightly. The directions that come with the part are very short and concise.
I also replaced the factory water filter with a Brita replacement (they are cheaper and I've used Brita filters before...they are solid).
All in all, I spent less than $100 on fixing a $500 used fridge that works as good as new. My wife was initially doubtful but fairly satisfied with the cost of the parts and the simplicity of installing them.
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Ronald from Gainesville, VA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
12 of 14 people
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Fixes Symptom 1% of time
In addition to the solenoid (115V), this kit also comes with a door strike and an ice door assembly. Please be advised the spring and roll pin are not included with this kit.
$
158.73
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS2003478
Manufacturer Part Number 12001991
Replacing your Maytag Refrigerator Ice Dispenser Solenoid and Door Kit
Customer Repair Stories
Ice Door Would Not Open
Jenn-air jcd-2389gtw refridgerator/freezer side by side ice door would not open to dispense ice from the ice dispensor I did an online order for the repair kit #ps2003478 (115v) ice dispenser solenoid and door kit to fix the problem with the ice door not opening. As I had deduced, the “solenoid” had gone bad, and the kit held most all
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the items required to make the repair. The only additional item the kit needs to have is the “fountain door return spring”. Be careful not to loose the spring when disassembling the unit. You might want to order an additional spring just in case you loose or break the original. The instruction sheet was pretty thorough, except for being small and the pictures hard to see. My refrigerator/freezer has decorative panels that had to be removed before I was actually able to get the escutcheon off of the unit, and this configuration wasn’t addressed in the instructions. After figuring out that I had to remove all the trim from the door of the freezer before I could start the repair, the job wasn’t that difficult, but you have to have patience and take your time to make sure you don’t damage the electrical components of the ice dispenser. Make sure you note the position and location of the fountain door return spring before you remove the ice door!! This is important so that you can get the correct “tension” when reinstalling the mechanism. If there isn’t enough tension on the spring, the door will not seal properly, and the dispenser will freeze up. Also, when it comes time to disconnect the “electrical edge connector” from the control panel, be sure to make note of it’s position. It isn’t difficult to pull off, but could be easily broken if you are not careful. The rest of the repair and installation is straight forward and simple. Just take your time and it goes back together pretty easily. Tools you will need are; needle nose pliers, phillips screwdriver with a small and medium bit, and a “torx” tool set to remove the torx screws from the escutcheon and fountain bracket.
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Stanley from Southlake, TX
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
21 of 22 people
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Ice Dispenser "round chute" broken side tab, ice/water fountain not working
I could see that a tab was broken from the round chute that opens for ice dispensing and closes to seal off freezer ice chute when not in use. With the tab broken, the round door would not shut to seal the freezer chute and dispensing water would spatter everywhere. I looked for just the round door part, but is only sold in the "Ice disp
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enser solenoid and door kit" I only had to use the round chute/flap from the kit. The instructions were easy to follow and I had the fridge back working in about 10 minutes. It took me longer to find the right star headed screwdriver that I needed to remove the Maytag star screws (5) total. Because I didn't have to replace the solenoid or the spring mechanism, this was especially easy, and now I have those parts on hand if one day I need them!!
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Scott from Walker, LA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
119 of 129 people
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Fixes Symptom 1% of time
This is the part that holds the ice bin and houses the auger motor which is sold separately.
$
137.94
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS2060964
Manufacturer Part Number 61005619
Customer Repair Stories
The motor that drives the ice auger, broke out of the plastic
I won't repeat the removale process, straight forward. The issue is removing the U shaped driver on the motor. You have to trun it clockwise (looking at it from the front) to remove it from the drive shaft in order to install the motor on the new shelf. The problem is the motor wants to turn as well. I used skinny plyers to hold the
... Read more
shaft but still could not get enought presure to stop the shaft from truning. Finally decided to have my wife hold the plyers and I tapped the auger blade with a small hammer. Success. Reinstallation was simple enought.
One important key: You are not done. Once it is all reinstalled, be sure empty out the ice bin, dry all the parts as best you can, and activate the dispenser every 15 min or so for the first hour. Otherwise it will freeze up and you will think it is broken again.
One important key: You are not done. Once it is all reinstalled, be sure empty out the ice bin, dry all the parts as best you can, and activate the dispenser every 15 min or so for the first hour. Otherwise it will freeze up and you will think it is broken again.
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Bill from Statesville, NC
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
23 of 25 people
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Plastic broke where motor mounts to dispense ice so motor was just lying on the back of the enclosure.
Removed Enclosure, removed solenoid, removed yoke from motor, installed motor and installed solenoid. Then re installed enclosure.
The difficulty was removing yoke from motor shaft, left hand threads that were hard to identify. No place to hold shaft so it turned when trying to remove yoke.
Some minor difficulty re ... Read more attaching electrical harness for motor and solenoid as I had to do it by feel. Removal was easy as the motor was just hanging and I removed the solenoid before removing the enclosure.
The difficulty was removing yoke from motor shaft, left hand threads that were hard to identify. No place to hold shaft so it turned when trying to remove yoke.
Some minor difficulty re ... Read more attaching electrical harness for motor and solenoid as I had to do it by feel. Removal was easy as the motor was just hanging and I removed the solenoid before removing the enclosure.
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Thomas from Chandler, AZ
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
35 of 40 people
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Fixes Symptom 1% of time
This is an authentic appliance part that is sourced directly from the genuine manufacturer. This ice stripper functions by stripping the ice maker mold of ice during the ejection cycle, after the water has frozen into cubes. The ice stripper rotates to push the cubes into the ice bucket and prevents the ice from falling back into the mold. You may need to replace the ice stripper if your ice maker is no longer making ice. This part is approximately 9 inches long and is sold individually.
$
63.68
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11739041
Manufacturer Part Number WP2182124
Customer Repair Stories
The ice stripper cracked from freezing.
There was three screws to remove to unmout the ice maker, and unplug the wire harness,then two to remove to slip in new stripper. All took about 20 mins.
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David from Discovery Bay, CA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
3 of 8 people
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Ice stripper broken on ice maker
I unplugged the fridge. Loosened the 2 top screws on the ice maker and removed the lower screw. I disconnected the wiring harness and removed the Ice maker. I removed the plastic timer cover in front. I then loosened the screws on the face of the ice maker and removed the broken ice stripper and replaced it with a new one. Re-tightened th
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e screws on the face, installed the timer cover, plugged in the wiring harness, re-attached the ice maker. Plugged the fridge back in and walla, it was making ice in 30 minutes!
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Kenneth from New Braunfels, TX
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
17 of 24 people
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Fixes Symptom 1% of time
This plug comes with a black rubber seal ring.
No Longer Available
PartSelect Number PS2059370
Manufacturer Part Number 61003791
Customer Repair Stories
No water in door or icemaker
From the beginning I have never had good water flow in the door and ice cubes turned out funky. I tried replacing the filter once with hardly noticeable change. The change I did see was $35 less in my pocket. So I bought a filter bypass plug and it now works like a champ. I have well water so I trust its quality and I am very satisfied
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. I would describe how I did the repair but if you don't no how to change out the filter you probably shouldn't be trying it.
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Eric from Menan, ID
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
15 of 21 people
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Hollow Ice Cubes, Stuck Icemaker & no more cubes
We have a Reverse Osmosis water filter supplying the fridge, so the internal water filter only served to reduce the water pressure inside the unit. I installed the bypass plug by simply twisting and removing the internal water filter and then twisting the plug up into the same hole. Done in 5 min.
Longest part of this was cl ... Read more earing the top shelf to reach back there... Oh, and figuring out that this part exists and that it could help with the problems we were having with the unit. The water filter is relatively new, less than six months, but it still contributed to the problem enough to cause the failure.
[Thank you Partselect.com for having this web database set up that gets EXACTLY the right part!].
Now about the hollow cubes: Do a web search and you'll find a lot of discussion about it. This is specific to the Whirlpool (Maytag, and others) newer style front to back icemakers that create "half moon" shaped icecubes. For a Shop Manual to a web search for 4316835.pdf for this series.
No doubt my old unit's icemaker solenoid valve on the back isn't passing as much pressure as it did new, but by itself it isn't fatal just yet. You can tell if you are vulnerable to this if the water spigot on the front only delivers a very slow trickle of water; if it takes a l o n g t i m e to fill a glass.
But here is the rest of the story: There is a fundamental design flaw in the way the icemaker unit was created that makes it malfuntion if the water pressure is too low - they chose to put the thermocouple (TC) that senses the temperature of the freezing cube on the opposite end (front) of the water tray from the water fill tube which fills from the rear. This was probably a manufacturing trade off for simplicity of assembly and it saved them half a cent's worth of copper wiring and a couple of screws. And maybe a safty concern about wiring under an open water channel, but that is a lousy excuse; there are other solutions, and the power "harness" goes right by there within a couple of inches anyway...
There are a number of reasons for low pressure:
- Bad supply inlet valve, or not open all the way, crimped tubing
- Bad Frige icemaker solenoid valve
- Clogged internal water filter (even just a little)
- Frozen ice plug in the fill tube, in the very back top of the unit against the back (use a hair dryer to defrost)
- Etc. Do some more web research for more details.
Of course the icemaker timers do fail as well, so this discussion assumes the icemaker is still functioning as "normally" as it can, given its design limitations.
The interaction with water pressure (design flaw!) is this: if the unit doesn't get enough water due to low pressure, then the final cube position to fill doesn't get any water in it (the front one by the motor). This is the one that the TC is next to as well, so it cools of really quickly and the TC thinks the tray is completely frozen, when in fact it isn't. The TC fires the cycling motor which turns on the heater and then spins the ejector shaft which has tabs that push the half moon shaped cubes around and out. However, since the cubes weren't fully frozen, only their outer shell gets pushed out - the water in the middle drains out leaving a hollow cube set. That liquid water hits the cold ejector bars and some of it immediately freezes, making little stalactite fingers that catch on the tabs and side of the tray, thus jamming the ejector shaft and pausing the cycle in place indefinitely.
The net is that you get a few hollow cubes and then no more ice until you reach in and crack off the ice fingers so shaft tabs can pass and the motor can finsh the cycle and properly stop in its home position. You can also tell by checking whether the front cube location has water in it just after it fills by reaching around and dipping your finger in it. If it comes up dry, then you have this problem.
So, in my case, putting the bypass plug in increased my flow t
Longest part of this was cl ... Read more earing the top shelf to reach back there... Oh, and figuring out that this part exists and that it could help with the problems we were having with the unit. The water filter is relatively new, less than six months, but it still contributed to the problem enough to cause the failure.
[Thank you Partselect.com for having this web database set up that gets EXACTLY the right part!].
Now about the hollow cubes: Do a web search and you'll find a lot of discussion about it. This is specific to the Whirlpool (Maytag, and others) newer style front to back icemakers that create "half moon" shaped icecubes. For a Shop Manual to a web search for 4316835.pdf for this series.
No doubt my old unit's icemaker solenoid valve on the back isn't passing as much pressure as it did new, but by itself it isn't fatal just yet. You can tell if you are vulnerable to this if the water spigot on the front only delivers a very slow trickle of water; if it takes a l o n g t i m e to fill a glass.
But here is the rest of the story: There is a fundamental design flaw in the way the icemaker unit was created that makes it malfuntion if the water pressure is too low - they chose to put the thermocouple (TC) that senses the temperature of the freezing cube on the opposite end (front) of the water tray from the water fill tube which fills from the rear. This was probably a manufacturing trade off for simplicity of assembly and it saved them half a cent's worth of copper wiring and a couple of screws. And maybe a safty concern about wiring under an open water channel, but that is a lousy excuse; there are other solutions, and the power "harness" goes right by there within a couple of inches anyway...
There are a number of reasons for low pressure:
- Bad supply inlet valve, or not open all the way, crimped tubing
- Bad Frige icemaker solenoid valve
- Clogged internal water filter (even just a little)
- Frozen ice plug in the fill tube, in the very back top of the unit against the back (use a hair dryer to defrost)
- Etc. Do some more web research for more details.
Of course the icemaker timers do fail as well, so this discussion assumes the icemaker is still functioning as "normally" as it can, given its design limitations.
The interaction with water pressure (design flaw!) is this: if the unit doesn't get enough water due to low pressure, then the final cube position to fill doesn't get any water in it (the front one by the motor). This is the one that the TC is next to as well, so it cools of really quickly and the TC thinks the tray is completely frozen, when in fact it isn't. The TC fires the cycling motor which turns on the heater and then spins the ejector shaft which has tabs that push the half moon shaped cubes around and out. However, since the cubes weren't fully frozen, only their outer shell gets pushed out - the water in the middle drains out leaving a hollow cube set. That liquid water hits the cold ejector bars and some of it immediately freezes, making little stalactite fingers that catch on the tabs and side of the tray, thus jamming the ejector shaft and pausing the cycle in place indefinitely.
The net is that you get a few hollow cubes and then no more ice until you reach in and crack off the ice fingers so shaft tabs can pass and the motor can finsh the cycle and properly stop in its home position. You can also tell by checking whether the front cube location has water in it just after it fills by reaching around and dipping your finger in it. If it comes up dry, then you have this problem.
So, in my case, putting the bypass plug in increased my flow t
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Jonathan from Scottsdale, AZ
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
23 of 27 people
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11 Door Switch
Fixes Symptom 1% of time
This light switch may also be known as a refrigerator door switch or a light switch kit, and is compatible with your refrigerator. The function of the refrigerator door switch is to turn on the light when your fridge door is open, and to make sure it is off when your refrigerator door is closed. The reason you would need to replace this part is if your light is not turning on when your door is open. For this repair, you will need a putty knife, and a small flat-blade screwdriver.
$
27.65
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS12731166
Manufacturer Part Number W11396033
Replacing your Maytag Refrigerator Door Switch
Customer Repair Stories
broken light switch
followed the instructions provided and that's it!
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Richard from West Warwick, RI
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
10 of 13 people
found this instruction helpful.
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while closing the door, the light switch fouled, resulting in the switch breaking
I used a flat screwdriver and released the lock tab on the bottom of the light switch, and pried the switch out, being careful to not damage the plastic around the mounting place of the switch, unplugged wiring from old switch, plugged in the new one and pushed the new switch into place. Job finished light switch now working.
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Kevin from Beckley, WV
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
59 of 88 people
found this instruction helpful.
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12 Water Filter
Fixes Symptom 1% of time
This is the replacement water filter for your refrigerator. It is white in color with a red cap and is approximately 3 inches wide and 6 inches tall. The water filter reduces contaminants and improves taste in your refrigerator water supply. It is recommended to replace the water filter every six months to maintain effectiveness. You will find the water filter at the back, top portion of your fresh food compartment. To remove the filter, simply twist it to the left until it can be removed. Then, remove the cap on the new filter, line up the arrow with the indentation, and twist to the right until it is secure. You may want to put a towel down below the filter when completing this repair, to catch any spills or drips. When you replace the water filter, hold down the dispenser trigger for a few minutes so that all the air is purged from the water lines, and the water tank fills up. This is an OEM part and is sold individually.
No Longer Available
PartSelect Number PS11722137
Manufacturer Part Number EDR7D1
Replacing your Maytag Refrigerator Water Filter
Customer Repair Stories
Needed to replace filter
1/4 turn of old filter. it popped out. Inserted new filter, 1/4 turn and it clicked in. Piece of cake. I'm a freakin' genius.
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Phyllis from University Place, WA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
7 of 9 people
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Refrigerator Filter needed replacing
Turn counter clockwise, following the remove arrow on the filter, until it stops. Wiggle and pull down on the filter until it comes off. Put date sticker on new filter to remember when it was replaced. Align the lines on the filter and push it up where the old one was and turn it clockwise until it stops, following the install arrow.
... Read more
Close the door and push both the light and lock button together to reset the replace filter light. Run the water through the door for a couple minutes to get all of the air out of the system. Very easy and quick. Most time spent flushing out the air.
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Bruce from Alfred Station, NY
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
92 of 104 people
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Fixes Symptom 1% of time
The compression nut is used as a connection between the water supply line and other components in your refrigerator such as your ice maker and your water dispenser. Tools required for this repair include a pair of pliers and a socket set. Before installing this part you should take all perishable foods out of your refrigerator and store them somewhere cool, unplug the refrigerator from the power source, and shut off the water supply. This repair may require you to wear work gloves to protect your hands, and is considered an easy do-it-yourself fix.
$
13.13
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11743305
Manufacturer Part Number WP627018
Fixes Symptom 1% of time
This drive ring is three inches in diameter. It is all white in color and is made of plastic. This ring is used with a refrigeraor's icemaker assembly.
$
47.77
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11743163
Manufacturer Part Number WP61003336
Customer Repair Stories
Old plastic ring was damaged due to leaking icemaker causing door to open when ice dispensed.
No tool required! Pulled out tray, emptied ice into large bowl for reuse. Pushed in and pulled from inside the coil springed auger until could get old plastic ring off and put new one on. Useing care not to apply too much pressure to ice dispensing end so as not to break housing. Have to turn auger assembly at an angle to compress enough
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and get old ring off. Needs a little physical strenth & care not to force plastic housing to breaking point. Worked great reused saved ice. Took less than 10 minutes
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Matthew from Menifee, CA
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
4 of 5 people
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The plastic ring that is the connection between the drive motor at the back of the freezer compartment to the auger in the ice bin shattered when my wife was dispensing crushed ice.
Part selects cataglog for parts selection was very easy to use and the online service and delivery was great.
When I got the part, it was not apparent on how to remove the auger so that I could insert the new connector. There were about about 8 visible screws, with star drive heads that I fortunately had a screwdriver that fit, and ... Read more I could not tell if I had to remove all of them or only a couple.
I ended up removing all, but still could not separate the dispenser portion which held the front of the auger from the back of the ice bin. I finally figured out that the dispenser door trip lever had to be disconnected and I almost lost it when I removed the metal clip that attached it to the outside of the ice bin when the spring loaded lever tried to unwind. I managed to hold it in place, separate the dispenser holding the auger from the rest of the ice bin and replace the connector. I them got the pieces back in place and was able to refasten the spring loaded lever and then replace the screws.
If the spring loaded lever had unloaded, it would have been tricky to try to replicate the amount of turns (load) on the spring tension.
When I got the part, it was not apparent on how to remove the auger so that I could insert the new connector. There were about about 8 visible screws, with star drive heads that I fortunately had a screwdriver that fit, and ... Read more I could not tell if I had to remove all of them or only a couple.
I ended up removing all, but still could not separate the dispenser portion which held the front of the auger from the back of the ice bin. I finally figured out that the dispenser door trip lever had to be disconnected and I almost lost it when I removed the metal clip that attached it to the outside of the ice bin when the spring loaded lever tried to unwind. I managed to hold it in place, separate the dispenser holding the auger from the rest of the ice bin and replace the connector. I them got the pieces back in place and was able to refasten the spring loaded lever and then replace the screws.
If the spring loaded lever had unloaded, it would have been tricky to try to replicate the amount of turns (load) on the spring tension.
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Larry from Anchorage, AK
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
7 of 8 people
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Fixes Symptom less than 1% of time
This valve is to supply water to your refrigerator for the ice maker or the water dispenser. It's also useful for filtering your water as it comes through the line.
$
172.40
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11743240
Manufacturer Part Number WP61005627