Models > LSQ8543JQ0 > Symptoms > Will not drain

Parts That Fix Whirlpool Washer LSQ8543JQ0 Will not drain

Will not drain is a commonly reported symptom for the LSQ8543JQ0 Whirlpool Washer, and we have put together a full guide on how to fix this. This advice is based on feedback from people who own this exact appliance. We have listed the most common parts for your LSQ8543JQ0 Whirlpool Washer that will fix Will not drain. We have included repair instructions, and helpful step-by-step video tutorials. If you are experiencing this issue, not to worry, DIYers just like you have fixed this, and shared their experience to help you!

Fixes Symptom 44% of time
★★★★★
★★★★★
98 Reviews

Rated by 219 customers 

  

Easy 

30 - 60 mins 

Ratings submitted by customers like you who bought this part.   

The direct drive drain pump (Whirlpool Direct Drive Washer Pump, Drain Pump, Washer Drain Pump, Water Pump) removes water from the washer during the drain cycle without the use of a belt. The pump is supposed to drain the water from the washer; if the water isn’t draining or if there is a leak, you may have a problem with your pump. You must replace this part if there is a blockage or clog. Although the symptoms may point to a malfunctioning drain pump, there could actually be a problem with one of the connecting hoses. This pump connected directly to the motor, and comes in white plastic. This replacement part features 1 direct drive water pump with 2 ports for water to pass through: a large one and a smaller one.

$ 48.76
  In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11741239
Manufacturer Part Number WP3363394

Replacing your Whirlpool Washer Direct Drive Water Pump

Replacing your Direct Drive Water Pump

Customer Repair Stories

bad water pump

We received the part we needed in a timely manner. First we took the back off the washer and found out later we didn't have to, because you can access the pump from the bottom of the Whirlpool washer and when we turned it on it's back a brass colored pin about 2" long fell out and we have no idea where it goes.Looking around the bottom frame we saw another pin in a plastic little cup mounted to the frame and another empty cup .So we changed the pump easy,put the pin in the empty cup and the washer runs great! That's our story.Still don't know what the pin is for,it's not on the parts schematic.
  • carrie from magna, UT
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
50 of 57 people found this instruction helpful.
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Water leaking on floor

I removed the two spring clips that hold the pump and two wire spring clips that hold the hoses. Then I had to pry the pump off the shaft (it was frozen with rust). Then I cleaned the shaft with sandpaper and installed the new pump (which, by the way, came the next day, thank you very much) which made my wife very happy, and I thank you for that , too.
  • Stanley from Warwick, RI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
103 of 112 people found this instruction helpful.
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Fixes Symptom 28% of time
★★★★★
★★★★★
85 Reviews

Rated by 14 customers 

  

Really Easy 

30 - 60 mins 

Ratings submitted by customers like you who bought this part.   

This switch (Lid Switch Assembly With Leads, Washer Lid Switch, Lid Switch Assembly, Washer Lid Switch) tells the washing machine that the lid is closed, which allows the wash cycle to begin. The lid switch mounts to the underside of the cabinet top panel. The plastic on the actuator can become brittle with age and break when the lid is closed roughly. It can also break from the movement of an unbalanced load causing parts of the washer to strike it. This part must be replaced if it is broken and no longer being activated by closing the lid (indicated by the washer not agitating properly, or the machine not detecting the lid is closed). This switch is black plastic with wire leads. It is sold individually.

$ 52.86
  In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11722098
Manufacturer Part Number 3949247V

Replacing your Whirlpool Washer Lid Switch

Replacing your Lid Switch

Customer Repair Stories

lid switch failure

Pretty much like shown in the video tutorial however I didn't disconnect the water hoses. I unplugged the machine and pulled it forward 6 inches. Took it apart like in the video but because of space restrictions I took the cabinet into another room to replace the switch and then re-assembled. The hardest part was getting the cabinet to re-seat as before. It took several attempts but it's all done and the machine is working like a champ. I listed a magnet because I use them to keep the nuts and screws from getting lost
  • David from BREEDING, KY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
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The washer would fill with water and wash,but would not drain and spinn out .

Followed direction that was sent to my e-mail. My washer timer would not advance. I' am so happy for the directions sent to me from this site and being able to get the part that I, needed from this site. I, didn't have and business doing the job myself, because I'm a ill 66 year old female. There's no special instructions that I, have to add. !! Thanks !! Lewis
  • Susie from BRANDON, MS
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
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Fixes Symptom 15% of time
★★★★★
★★★★★
160 Reviews

Rated by 251 customers 

  

Easy 

30 - 60 mins 

Ratings submitted by customers like you who bought this part.   

This direct drive motor coupling (Direct Drive Washer Motor Coupling, Motor Coupling, Washer Motor Coupling, Coupling Kit) provides a cushioned connection between the transmission and the motor shaft. It attaches to the direct-drive transmission and the motor shaft. If this part is defective it will affect the agitator in your washer because of its direct connection with the motor. Your washer may not agitate, spin slowly, or not spin at all. The coupling must be replaced when there is no longer a consistent connection between the transmission and the motor shaft. The coupling can wear over time because of its location between two major parts of the dryer. It is subject to material fatigue over time from normal use, or breakage caused by frequent overloading. The part measures approximately 2 inches in diameter, and is constructed of plastic and metal. This model comes in black/white.

$ 27.87
  In Stock
PartSelect Number PS1485646
Manufacturer Part Number 285753A

Replacing your Whirlpool Washer Direct Drive Motor Coupling

Replacing your Direct Drive Motor Coupling

Customer Repair Stories

Broken Coupling

Very easy -
1. Removed hoses from the pump
2. Removed Wiring harness from the motor
3. Unscrewed saftey screws from both clamps which hold the motor against the motor bracket.
4. Using a screw driver I easily removed/pryed the clamps from the motor.
5. I then removed the broken plastic coupler from the motor shaft and installed the new one coupler.
6. I did the same thing on the clutch side.
7. I set the Rubber coupler in clutch side.
8. Put motor back on until couplers joined together.
9. Placed Brackets back on Motor (patience here).
10. screwed back saftey screws on clamps.
11. connected hoses back.

Thats it... 45 minutes at most .. Save me from having to buy a new easher. I was convinced I was going to have too until I peeked underneatch the washer and saw the rubber coupler on the ground...
  • Hugo from Frisco, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
217 of 230 people found this instruction helpful.
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No movement from Basket & agitator

The job looked intimidating but turned out to be very easy.
First take off the water pump by removing the two clips that hold it in place. Place a shallow pan under the pump to catch the water that is in the pump and hoses. Open the hose clamps with a pair of pliers or channel locks (better) and slide the hoses off of the water pump.
The motor comes off next. Unplug the electrical connector from the motor and two wires from the capacitor. Remove the two screws holding the clamps in place and then pop off the two clamps. You will need to hold up the motor with one hand while you remove the clamps or it will fall to the floor once the clamps are removed.
One piece of the coupling assemble will be attached to the motor and the other will be attached to the gearcase drive shaft. If you want to clean up the mess created by the shredded rubber center piece of the coupling assembly you will have to take off the motor mounting plate. It is held on by two bolts and removing it makes installing the coupling easier but probably not necessary.
Push the back half of the coupling on to the gearcase drive shaft until the shaft is flush with the face of the coupling. Install the new rubber center piece on to the coupling then re-install the motor mounting plate. Install the other half of the coupling on to the motor shaft and lift the motor up to the coupling. You have to rotate the motor shaft by spinning the fan blades until the coupling lines up so you can slide it into the other half of the coupling. Then just reattach the motor, connectors and water pump in the reverse order of disassembly.
  • Jeff from Wayne, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
1089 of 1169 people found this instruction helpful.
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Fixes Symptom 5% of time
★★★★★
★★★★★
78 Reviews

Rated by 69 customers 

  

Easy 

1- 2 hours 

Ratings submitted by customers like you who bought this part.   

A clutch assembly (Clutch, Washer Clutch) is found in your washing machine and is responsible for spinning the basket during the spin cycle. The clutch lining can wear over time. If the clutch lining is worn out, the clutch assembly will not rotate properly to release the brake. If you notice a burning smell, or the machine shaking and moving more than normal, this could indicate there is an issue with your clutch. If the washer spins when the washer basket is empty but not when it’s full, or if the assembly begins to turn blue, you may need to replace the clutch assembly. This assembly includes a brake cam driver, blue springs for large capacity washers, a black spring for compact washers, and the installation instructions. It’s constructed of plastic and metal, and comes in beige/silver.

$ 27.58
  In Stock
PartSelect Number PS334641
Manufacturer Part Number 285785

Replacing your Whirlpool Washer Clutch Assembly

Replacing your Clutch Assembly

Customer Repair Stories

Clothes washer would not spin with more than a couple socks in it. It would barely spin when empty.

Diagnosing the problem was the toughest part. I originally called a repair man - described to him the problem and he said it was most likely the transmission (gearbox)... of course that is one of the most expensive parts! I asked him if it was maybe the clutch... he said there was no clutch.. only a brake... I knew he was wrong after researching. The fact that the washer would agitate fine and spin very light loads but not spin anything heavy told me it was NOT the gearbox.. or the brake.. it was the clutch.. it had to be... so I called the repair man and canceled the appointment I had made then ordered the clutch assembly. Showed up very quickly. Now to the repair. I realized that I did not have to take apart the cabinet section of the washer.. I only needed access to the bottom. My washer - a 5 year old Whirlpool Gold Ultimate Care II had just a piece of foam blocking off the bottom of the washer... Easy access... I disconnected the hot and cold water and the drain tube. I removed the hot and cold water tubes from the back of the washer also so they would not get crushed when I laid the machine on its back. I unplugged the washer also. The drain tube I left connected to the washer.. I was afaid of it getting crushed while on its back, so I bunched up a large towel put it on the floor and tilted the washer slowly back onto it... the towel was enough of a spacer to keep the drain hose from getting crushed. I used a couple pieces of Duct Tape to hold the lid shut while on its back. I then removed the foam insert on the bottom. Then I unplugged the wiring harness. and a single wire that had a spade connector in the same area. I then removed the clips from the plastic water pump and slid it off the motor (I used Duct Tape again to suspend the water pump up and out of my way while I proceeded) I did NOT have to remove the motor from the gearbox. I used a socket wrench and unbolted the 3 gearbox bolts. I was able to take the whole unit, gearbox and motor out in one piece.. it slid right out (you will have to unscrew the the bolt in the top of the agitator/dispenser shaft - then the gearbox unit with the shaft will slide right out, I did this before I put the washer on it's back) Once it was slid out, I removed the clutch then reinstalled the same way I took it off. The only hard part was the circular wire retainer install for the clutch. It CAN all be done .. I ended up using 2 screwdrivers to put the new retaining ring into the new clutch assembly.. One screwdriver would hold down part of the retaining ring and the other I used to continue pushing the ring into place.. don't give up! You will get it in.. even with normal tools (This was the hardest part of the whole install) It took me 5 minutes with some force and fiddling. I also swapped in the new plastic piece that came with the clutch assembly... you will see where it goes... the old plastic piece looked fine, but I changed it out anyways - it hooks the clutch to the brake system it looks like. After the new clutch assembly was installed I just put it all back together the way I took it apart. One thing I will add was I was not sure if the clutch had to be lined up when I slid the shaft back into the washer.. It does not have to be.. It will align itself automatically. You know when you hear that click/pop when the washer is about to spin?.. well that is that plastic piece engaging with the clutch... there was a piece or two that fell off the shaft when I had removed it.. While sliding the shaft back into the washer I had to just put the pieces back on the shaft before I put the bolt back into the top of the agitator/shaft...

Summary:
Get the washer on its back - unplugged!
remove wire(s) Harness from motor
remove water pump
unbolt 3 bolts holding the gearbox
slide gearbox and motor out as one piece ( a bit heavy)
remove and replace clutch assembly (pay attention to how things are removed)

Done! put it all back together... hope that helps. It worked perfect for me.. and m
  • Shawn from Longmont, CO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
250 of 258 people found this instruction helpful.
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spin cycle did not engage

researched potential causes, found cluch dust under the washer and determined that it wouldn't engage because clutch was too worn. ordered the assembly, removed agitator from inside the tub as it is connected to the gear shaft, turned washer on it's back for access to motor, unattached the direct drive water pump from the motor drive, unbolted the 3 gearcase mounting bolts and took the entire gearcase, shaft, motor, etc... together, out from under the washtub. the clutch slides off the gearshaft with a little fidgeting and the new assembly is easily installed where the previous was. put everything back together... then... spin spin! worked perfectly
  • Andrew from SLC, UT
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set
487 of 520 people found this instruction helpful.
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Fixes Symptom 3% of time
★★★★★
★★★★★
7 Reviews

Rated by 5 customers 

  

Easy 

30 - 60 mins 

Ratings submitted by customers like you who bought this part.   

This part is used to activate the lid switch when the lid opens/closes.

$ 11.06
  In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11741871
Manufacturer Part Number WP358684

Replacing your Whirlpool Washer Lid Strike

Replacing your Lid Strike
Fixes Symptom 1% of time
★★★★★
★★★★★
356 Reviews

Rated by 276 customers 

  

Really Easy 

15 - 30 mins 

Ratings submitted by customers like you who bought this part.   

This kit is used for replacing the agitator directional cogs (Agitator Dogs, Agitator Repair Kit, Washer Agitator Dogs, Agitator Dog Ears). The agitator is what creates the thrusting motion in your washer to tumble your clothes during the washer cycle. Your agitator will rotate one way, and not the other. The agitator dogs are what prevent the agitator from rotating in both directions, while allowing it to rotate in one direction. Your agitator cogs may be malfunctioning if you can manually rotate the agitator in both directions. If broken they will need to be replaced. Cogs can be found by simply removing the softener dispenser and then removing the agitator cap. The are attached to the agitator. This replacement part features 4 agitator directional cogs. There are 4 cogs per package that are made up of high-quality plastic. This part comes in white/beige.

$ 4.39
  In Stock
PartSelect Number PS388034
Manufacturer Part Number 80040

Replacing your Whirlpool Washer Agitator Directional Cogs

Replacing your Agitator Directional Cogs

Customer Repair Stories

top half of agitator did not move during wash cycle

pull off softner dispenser, pop off agitator cap by inserting straight screw driver into small slot, remove bolt inside agitator with socket wrench and long extension, pull agitator straight up off shaft, place agitator on floor, with feet holding bottom half pull top half apart from bottom half by pulling straight up, note direction of old cogs remove and replace with new, reassemble
  • dennis from new stanton, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Socket set
276 of 319 people found this instruction helpful.
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washer wouldn't agitate

First pry off the cap of the agitator. Then using a socket remove the bolt that holds the plastic cup in place. Remove this cup by prying it loose from the two tabs that hold it in place. Once this cup is removed you can get to the broken cogs.
Slip the new cogs into the underside of the cup, and slide the cup back down in the agitator housing using the slots on the side for a guide. (You may want to remove the entire agitator and assemble everything upside down, then flip it all back over to mount, so the cogs don't fall out).
Tighten the bolt, snap the cap back in place on top of the agitator and your'e done. Easy repair.
  • mike from Kent, WA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
931 of 1007 people found this instruction helpful.
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7 Timer
Fixes Symptom 1% of time
★★★★★
★★★★★
2 Reviews

Rated by 4 customers 

  

Easy 

30 - 60 mins 

Ratings submitted by customers like you who bought this part.   

The timer controls most of the operations of the washer: water level, tub filling and emptying, length of cycles, and cycle setting sequences. Use with direct drive appliances.

$ 225.73
  In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11742069
Manufacturer Part Number WP3953321

Customer Repair Stories

Timer not advancing dial

Followed video instructions. Simple
  • Walter from MANASQUAN, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
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timer bad no spin

design was on my side. the washer was structured that when you removed the screws that held down the upper timer cover, it would pivot rearward and you could gain access to the switch. you would carfully remove the knob set pin. remove knob, remove retaining screw. Slide timer sideways out of the engagement groove. remove wire connector. and with the new timer, do in reverse order. awesome site which was the ONLY site I actually found my model number for such an old washer. It even had the schematic that helped identify the assembly process. I will do business now the parts select for all my appliance needs for parts.
  • Albert from Clarkston, MI
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
81 of 104 people found this instruction helpful.
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Fixes Symptom 1% of time
★★★★★
★★★★★
8 Reviews

Rated by 25 customers 

  

Really Easy 

15 - 30 mins 

Ratings submitted by customers like you who bought this part.   

Use this dispenser for your direct drive washing machine.

$ 25.70
  In Stock
PartSelect Number PS381197
Manufacturer Part Number 63580

Replacing your Whirlpool Washer Fabric Softener Dispenser

Replacing your Fabric Softener Dispenser

Customer Repair Stories

Washer model didn't come with softener dispenser

Just bought my washer and dryer from Home Depot, but bought an Admiral model that didn't come with a fabric softener dispenser. Ordered the part from PartSelect and after rocket fast shipping installed it in seconds. The installation required no tools as the dispenser just snapped right in. My clothes are now soft and free of static cling. Thank you PartSelect!!
  • Liz from Winchester, KS
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
12 of 15 people found this instruction helpful.
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No fabric softener dispenser

Pop the center cap off the agitator and snap the dispenser in. Easy as 1-2-3.
  • Dennis from Port Orchard, WA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
51 of 69 people found this instruction helpful.
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Fixes Symptom 1% of time
★★★★★
★★★★★
2 Reviews

Rated by 13 customers 

  

Really Easy 

30 - 60 mins 

Ratings submitted by customers like you who bought this part.   

Sold Individually.

$ 10.98
  In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11746362
Manufacturer Part Number WP8546127

Replacing your Whirlpool Washer Pump Retainer

Replacing your Pump Retainer

Customer Repair Stories

Pump requires 2 retainers. I had 1 good retainer on the top and little tension on the bottom.

Pull the washer out away from the wall and tip back.
I used a small metal ammo box to hold up the washer.
The bottom pump retainer is easy reach and remove with a flat screwdriver. I was able to pry off with my hand.
Replace retainer insert into slots on drive motor and twist.
I used a pair of Channellock pliers to lift retainer while pressing along the
side till it snaped into place.
Remove the support box and put washer back.
Then tip washer forward to reset self-leveling mechanism.
  • Frank from ROSWELL, NM
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
1 person found this instruction helpful.
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Retainer clip for the pump missing, caused pump to fail

Pulled hoses off, unclipped the remaining retainer clip, slid old pump off. Slid new pump on replaced the old retainer clip and put the new one on, replaced the 2 hoses, done. It took mabey 10 min.
The part got there in less that 24 hours from the time I placed the order, with standard shipping! I was impressed.
  • Matt from Roca, NE
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
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Fixes Symptom 1% of time
★★★★★
★★★★★
7 Reviews

Rated by 7 customers 

  

Really Easy 

1- 2 hours 

Ratings submitted by customers like you who bought this part.   

This is a 2-speed drive motor for your washing machine. The motor rotates the spin basket when the washing machine is in spin or tumbling mode. You will likely need to replace the motor if you are experiencing burning smells or your washer will not start. The tools you will need to make this repair include a number two Phillips screwdriver, a flat-blade screwdriver, and a 5/16 nut driver.

$ 216.94
  In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11743427
Manufacturer Part Number WP661600

Replacing your Whirlpool Washer 2-Speed Drive Motor - 60Hz 120V

Replacing your 2-Speed Drive Motor - 60Hz 120V

Customer Repair Stories

washer motor burned out

1. Watch a video on installation, there are many on the internet.
(unplug the washer)
2. remove the screws on the back of the control panel to lift the control panel out of the way.
3. use a flat head screwdriver to remove the clips that hold the cabinet to the back panel.
4. disconnect the lid switch from the control panel by removing the clip that connects them at the top of the cabinet.
5. tilt the cabinet forward to remove it.
6. use a flat head screw driver to remove the two clips that hold the water pump to the motor and swing the water pump out of the way.
7. use a nut driver to remove the shipping screw that holds the clips on to the motor.
8. disconnect the wiring harness from the motor
9. remove the two clips from the motor with a flat head screwdriver and remove the motor
remove the three prong coupler and rubber gasket from the old motor and put them on the shaft of the new motor
10. remove the 4 rubber pads from the old motor and slide them onto the new motor.
11. insert the new motor into the washer aligning the prongs of the coupler.
12 reassemble the washer in reverse order of disassembly
(the shipping screw does not need to be reinserted into the spring clip that holds the motor)
  • Joseph from SANFORD, NC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
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I smelled smoke and then it quit working

First unplug the electrical chord and disconnect the water supply after you have turned it off. Drain all water you can by putting the drain hose into a bucket or water container lower then the drain hose. Remove the two screws at base of the front panel. Then go to the back side of the machine remove the two screws at the top of the back panel, this allow you to remove the top switch panel. Remove the two screws at the bottom outside corners of the back panel and then you can lift the panel up and away from the base. I leaned the back against my dryer because I did not have a helper. Go to the front of the machine, lift the lid and grasp with one hand the machine's sheet metal lift and pull it off the base. There are two metal clips attaching the pump to the motor. The pump slides off and I did not have to remove the hoses. Unclip the electrical connectors from the motor and capacitor. The motor is mounted with two clips with a screw secure it in place. Unscrew and unclip and the motor should slide out. Be sure to inspect the direct drive coupler, the parts not too expensive. I had replaced mine just 4 months ago so I was good to go. Reverse the procedure and you should be in business.
  • Paul from Lakewood, WA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
43 of 48 people found this instruction helpful.
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