Models
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F8558W0
F8558W0 Roper Range - Overview
Sections of the F8558W0
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Surface Burner Plug-In Block Kit
PartSelect #: PS340571
Manufacturer #: 330031
The surface burner plug-in block kit features a newer-style terminal block. This kit is designed for use with ranges and cooktops. This terminal block is how the coil element on your stove connects to...
$13.42
In Stock
Round Carborundum Oven Igniter
PartSelect #: PS360921
Manufacturer #: 4342528
This round style gas oven igniter, or also known as a broil or bake igniter, has an amperage range between 2.5 and 3.0. It glows white hot to ignite the gas for the oven. The igniter does this by attr...
$51.37
In Stock
Hex Nut
PartSelect #: PS11738304
Manufacturer #: WP112432
This 10-32-inch hex nut works with multiple appliances in your home as a fastener. This specific model is sold individually. Hex nuts usually have 6 even sides and together they are used with bolts an...
$8.04
In Stock
Questions And Answers for F8558W0
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Common Symptoms of the F8558W0
[Viewing 4 of 4]Element will not heat
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Will Not Start
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Little to no heat when baking
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Gas igniter glows, but will not light
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The lower burner would not ignite.
First I removed the oven racks. Then I loosened the two screws in the back of the oven floor and figured out how to remove it. Then I loosened the two screws at the front of the diverter and, with some pushing and pulling and twisting, was able to get that to come out, too. Then I tried lighting the oven and noticed that the igniter wa
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s not glowing. When I saw that the upper (broiler) burner was working fine, I hoped that the problem was the lower igniter itself. I checked the wires and they seemed fine. I saw that two bolts held the igniter onto its bracket, so with a socket wrench (which size I got right on the first guess!) I removed those bolts and the igniter came loose. I found the connecter for the wires when I removed the drawer under the oven and was able to pull it apart easily. The igniter came out completely. There was nothing unusual about it, but I decided to take a chance and order a new one, hoping that replacing it would solve the problem. I put the rest of the oven together and waited. About three days later the part arrived (it was sent on a holiday; FedEx is soooo much better than USPS). I retraced the steps of taking the oven apart, put the two bolts into the new igniter to attach it to the bracket, and went back underneath behind the drawer to connect the wires. Then came the moment of truth: I tried turing on the oven. I held the button down to keep the light off, and after a few seconds I saw it: IT GLOWED!! It worked!! After yelling a satisfying "YEAH!!," I turned it off, put back the drawer, the diverter (more pulling and pushing and twisting), and the oven floor. Now it's all working perfectly and it took a very short time to fix. And a little luck that the problem was with such a simple part.
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Parts Used:
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Mark from Rego Park, NY
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
80 of 86 people
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One burner didn't work all the time the other would go red hot
I unplugged the stove from the outlet, then removed the two burners I was going to be working on and the drip pans. Then I raised the top part of the stove and removed the screws holding the plug-in blocks to the stove. Then I cut the two wires going to the old plug-in block and stripped the wires back to match the new wire parts. Then I
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placed the sleeves over the new wires, then I placed the new wire beside the wire I stripped on the stove and screw on the wire cap making sure it was tight. I repeated this three more times, once I had all four wires connected I then placed the sleeves over the connections and heated them up until they were formed around the connection. Once I had all the connections done I placed one wire at a time into the plug-in block until it locked into place ( I looked at my old plug-in blocks first to make sure I placed the new wires in the correct way ).I then used the metal mounting bracket that matched my old ones and snapped the correct one onto each plug-in block. Before mounting them onto the stove I compared them to my old ones to make sure they were correct. Then I used the new screws to mount them to the stove. I took a second look at everything I had done before closing the top cover of my stove. After lowering the cover back into place I put both the drip covers in place and then installed the burners.I then plugged the stove back into the outlet and tried the burners. This was very simple and the video on the web site shows this very well which made my job very simple.
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Parts Used:
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Phillip from Pekin, IL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
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Oven wouldn't light (gas)
Removed racks and floor in oven, exposing ignitor assembly. Disconnected 2 wires at electrical connector plug. Removed 2 screws holding ignitor in place, removed bad ignitor, installed new ignitor in reverse order. Tested for ignition, all worked fine.
Parts Used:
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David from El Paso, TX
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Wrench set
12 of 14 people
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