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CCE3530B
CCE3530B Jenn-Air Cooktop - Overview
Sections of the CCE3530B
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Screw, 8/18 x 3/8
PartSelect #: PS11746840
Manufacturer #: WP90767
This screw is sold individually.
$5.42
In Stock
Surface Burner Switch
PartSelect #: PS12070671
Manufacturer #: W11088181
This is the replacement surface burner switch for your range. It measures approximately 1.5 inches by 1.5 inches, with a shaft that is approximately 1 inch long. The surface burner switch turns the su...
$83.91
In Stock
Dual Surface Burner Switch Kit
PartSelect #: PS2003583
Manufacturer #: 12002125
This switch is used to operate the dual surface burner.
$89.03
In Stock
Infinite Knob
PartSelect #: PS11757486
Manufacturer #: WPY04100366
This infinite knob is black in color and is two inches in diameter. It is only an inch high and it has a gray indicator dot.
$26.29
In Stock
6 Inch Element with Limiter
PartSelect #: PS11764912
Manufacturer #: W10823704
This element can be used for the left front or right rear.
$268.43
In Stock
Screw - 6-32 x 5/16
PartSelect #: PS11744050
Manufacturer #: WP74004005
This screw is well under an inch long, and is made of metal.
$5.36
Special Order
Dual Burner Element with Limiter
PartSelect #: PS11764904
Manufacturer #: W10823694
$212.59
In Stock
Questions And Answers for CCE3530B
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Common Symptoms of the CCE3530B
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Outer element of dual element burner didn't work
Remove Ceran Galss top by removing hex screws below the rim. Also remove the two opposing screws in the center of the downdraft opening. Ceran top comes off easily now.
The instructions with the new switch were very poorly written, so here is how I got the new switch to work:
Attach the black wire(s) from the old switch (termi ... Read more nal 2) to the new switch terminal P1. Also attach the jumper cable to P1 and "jump" it to S1.
Attach the orange wire (old switch terminal 5) to S2
Attach the yellow wire (old switch terminal 4) to 4a
Attach the tan/(white?) wire (old switch terminal 3) to terminal 4 on the new switch
Attach the single red wire from the right front element to terminal 2 on the new switch.
Attach the 'compound' red wires (the ones that come from the left rear/outlet connection and is also attached to the right rear switch) to terminal P2 on the new switch.
There is no need to seperate the compound red wires as the instructions might lead you to believe.
Good Luck
The instructions with the new switch were very poorly written, so here is how I got the new switch to work:
Attach the black wire(s) from the old switch (termi ... Read more nal 2) to the new switch terminal P1. Also attach the jumper cable to P1 and "jump" it to S1.
Attach the orange wire (old switch terminal 5) to S2
Attach the yellow wire (old switch terminal 4) to 4a
Attach the tan/(white?) wire (old switch terminal 3) to terminal 4 on the new switch
Attach the single red wire from the right front element to terminal 2 on the new switch.
Attach the 'compound' red wires (the ones that come from the left rear/outlet connection and is also attached to the right rear switch) to terminal P2 on the new switch.
There is no need to seperate the compound red wires as the instructions might lead you to believe.
Good Luck
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Parts Used:
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Michael from Collierville, TN
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set
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The repair itself was very easy. “How to connect” was very hard to get.
The repair itself was very easy. “How to connect” was very hard to get.
To get access to the switch, unscrew 2 screws from each side of front panel and then 4 screws from the bottom of it (open the door first). Have a box or a small table about 30” high to use it as support for the front panel.
The end result ... Read more (colors for the Right Front- R.F.- burner) : Old label -> New label
1. Double RED: N -> P2 (incoming power, Line 1)
2. Single RED: N -> 2 (to Inner AND Outer heating elements common wire)
3. Single BLK: L1 -> P1 (incoming power, Line 2)
4. Single TAN: H1 -> 4 (to the Inner heating element)
5. Single YEL: H2-> 4a (to the Inner heating element)
6. Single BLK: P -> S2 (to the R.F. indicator control light)
7. Attach jumper black wire (included with new switch) from P1 (P1 has two connectors close together) to S1.
Done.
To get access to the switch, unscrew 2 screws from each side of front panel and then 4 screws from the bottom of it (open the door first). Have a box or a small table about 30” high to use it as support for the front panel.
The end result ... Read more (colors for the Right Front- R.F.- burner) : Old label -> New label
1. Double RED: N -> P2 (incoming power, Line 1)
2. Single RED: N -> 2 (to Inner AND Outer heating elements common wire)
3. Single BLK: L1 -> P1 (incoming power, Line 2)
4. Single TAN: H1 -> 4 (to the Inner heating element)
5. Single YEL: H2-> 4a (to the Inner heating element)
6. Single BLK: P -> S2 (to the R.F. indicator control light)
7. Attach jumper black wire (included with new switch) from P1 (P1 has two connectors close together) to S1.
Done.
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Parts Used:
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Igor from Campbell, CA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
51 of 60 people
found this instruction helpful.
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old switch had shorted and burned out
This was a range top. i removed the 12 hex machine scews holding on the top, then removed the two star screws holding the old switch. there were fore wire that had fitted on tabs. Hooked them to the new swtch and reassembeld. Easy repair since i could lift the unit out without disconnecting main cables. Replacement range would have
... Read more
been oveer $1000. Psrt was under $40 and delivered in a matter of days.
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Parts Used:
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Larry from Hampton Cove, AL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
37 of 50 people
found this instruction helpful.
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