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95-1522-23-00
95-1522-23-00 Tappan Refrigerator - Overview
Sections of the 95-1522-23-00
[Viewing 5 of 5]
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Defrost Timer - 60Hz 120V
PartSelect #: PS423801
Manufacturer #: 215846602
This Defrost Timer works like a clock by switching on the defrost heater circuit after a predetermined amount of compressor run time. This allows the defrost circuit to clear the evaporator of ice or ...
$38.64
In Stock
Door Shelf End Cap - Right Side
PartSelect #: PS447375
Manufacturer #: 3206150
This white end cap is a little over two inches long. It is used for the right side of either the refrigerator of the freezer door shelf.
No Longer Available
Door Shelf End Cap - Left Side
PartSelect #: PS467739
Manufacturer #: 5303324302
This is the door shelf end cap for your refrigerator. It connects to the refrigerator door and keeps the door bar in place. Your refrigerator will have two shelf end caps, one for the right side and o...
No Longer Available
Light Bulb
PartSelect #: PS12751166
Manufacturer #: 316538904
This OEM 40 watt appliance light bulb is used for some ranges, refrigerators, freezers, and microwaves. Simply locate the existing bulb, unscrew it from its socket, and replace with new light bulb. If...
$19.73
In Stock
Defrost Thermostat
PartSelect #: PS469269
Manufacturer #: 5303917954
This limiter thermostat cuts out when the temperature inside your refrigerator reaches 55 degrees Fahrenheit and kicks back in when the internal temperature drops to 20 degrees Fahrenheit. If you disc...
$22.68
In Stock
Door Shelf End Cap - Right Side
PartSelect #: PS447389
Manufacturer #: 3206165
This is the door shelf end cap for your refrigerator. It connects to the refrigerator door and keeps the door bar in place. Your refrigerator will have two shelf end caps, one for the right side and o...
$15.04
In Stock
Door Shelf End Cap - Left Side
PartSelect #: PS447390
Manufacturer #: 3206166
This is the door shelf end cap for your refrigerator. It connects to the refrigerator door and keeps the door bar in place. Your refrigerator will have two shelf end caps, one for the right side and o...
$9.91
In Stock
Evaporator Fan Motor Kit
PartSelect #: PS450319
Manufacturer #: 5300158289
The evaporator fan motor kit is specifically made for your refrigerator to run the evaporator fan in your refrigerator. It is mounted on the center hub and has three lead wire terminals; its shaft has...
$101.85
In Stock
Evaporator Fan Blade
PartSelect #: PS473177
Manufacturer #: 5308000010
This evaporator fan blade is a genuine OEM part that is sourced directly from the manufacturer. The evaporator fan blade circulates air through the refrigerator to control the amount of cold air goes ...
$47.83
In Stock
Light Socket
PartSelect #: PS3655096
Manufacturer #: 218906802
The light socket on your refrigerator houses the light bulb and connects it to the power source. If you notice that your refrigerator light does not come on when you open the door, you may need to rep...
$21.98
In Stock
Fresh Food Door Gasket
PartSelect #: PS428566
Manufacturer #: 218730603
This white gasket is used to seal the refrigerator door when closed to keep the cool air inside and the room air out.
$121.79
In Stock
Hexagonal Screw
PartSelect #: PS1526503
Manufacturer #: 241710601
Sold individually.
$11.21
In Stock
Questions And Answers for 95-1522-23-00
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Common Symptoms of the 95-1522-23-00
[Viewing 15 of 15]Fridge too warm
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Freezer not defrosting
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Freezer section too warm
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Noisy
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Light not working
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Leaking
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Fridge runs too long
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Will Not Start
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Fridge and Freezer are too warm
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Fridge too cold
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Freezer too cold
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Door Sweating
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Frost buildup
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Too warm
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Won’t start
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Fridge got warm and freezer coils were frosted
Fridge is a side by side. The freezer is pretty narrow for a guy with wide shoulders.
Pulled plug.
Had to remove bottom drawers then used nut driver to remove screws closest to back wall in drawer runners. Once the back screws were removed the runners could be swung up or down out of way so back cover could be re ... Read more moved.
Once back cover was removed thermostat was located attached to top pipe going into coil using a spring clamp.
Cut the wires just outside the crimp connectors going into thermostat. Released the spring clamp buy squeezing botton together.
Removed old badly corroded thermostat.
I wish I had attached the crimp connectors to the new thermostat wires before mounting it. Reaching way in the back, while turning shoulders verticly and trying to get the wire connectors set from both sides was awkward and uncomfortable...The biggest PIA of the whole task.
Once connected I let the fridge (thermostat) cool for 10 min. Turned the dial defrost timer to get it into defrost mode. Stupidly touched the heating element to see if it was getting warm...it was very hot.
Coils steamed...every looked like it was working. Unplugged, put back cover back on and retattached drawer mounts.
Plugged back in and everying is working great!
Pulled plug.
Had to remove bottom drawers then used nut driver to remove screws closest to back wall in drawer runners. Once the back screws were removed the runners could be swung up or down out of way so back cover could be re ... Read more moved.
Once back cover was removed thermostat was located attached to top pipe going into coil using a spring clamp.
Cut the wires just outside the crimp connectors going into thermostat. Released the spring clamp buy squeezing botton together.
Removed old badly corroded thermostat.
I wish I had attached the crimp connectors to the new thermostat wires before mounting it. Reaching way in the back, while turning shoulders verticly and trying to get the wire connectors set from both sides was awkward and uncomfortable...The biggest PIA of the whole task.
Once connected I let the fridge (thermostat) cool for 10 min. Turned the dial defrost timer to get it into defrost mode. Stupidly touched the heating element to see if it was getting warm...it was very hot.
Coils steamed...every looked like it was working. Unplugged, put back cover back on and retattached drawer mounts.
Plugged back in and everying is working great!
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Parts Used:
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Stephen from Warrington, PA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
336 of 400 people
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Noisy fan
1. Removed the 7 nuts using the nut driver from the freezer back panel inside the freezer.
2. Remove the back panel. The evaporator motor and fan are located above the coils.
3. Unplug the wiring harness.
4. Remove the two gold mounting screws holding the motor and fan in place.
5. Remove the motor and fan including th ... Read more e brackets.
6. Install the new motor and fan onto the mounting bracket.
6a. Attach the green ground to the mounting bracket.
7. Screw the two gold screws back into the freezer.
8. Attach the new wiring harness. Note, the old harness had a mounting hole/space for it to connect to the wiring harness of the freezer. The new motor's harness was not long enough for this, so it is connected freely to the freezer harness.
9. Use the hair dryer to melt any ice that may have formed on the coils and hole where the fan goes.
10. Turn the freezer on to see if the fan turns on.
11. Reinstall the back panel.
All done!
2. Remove the back panel. The evaporator motor and fan are located above the coils.
3. Unplug the wiring harness.
4. Remove the two gold mounting screws holding the motor and fan in place.
5. Remove the motor and fan including th ... Read more e brackets.
6. Install the new motor and fan onto the mounting bracket.
6a. Attach the green ground to the mounting bracket.
7. Screw the two gold screws back into the freezer.
8. Attach the new wiring harness. Note, the old harness had a mounting hole/space for it to connect to the wiring harness of the freezer. The new motor's harness was not long enough for this, so it is connected freely to the freezer harness.
9. Use the hair dryer to melt any ice that may have formed on the coils and hole where the fan goes.
10. Turn the freezer on to see if the fan turns on.
11. Reinstall the back panel.
All done!
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Parts Used:
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Jordan from Maumee, OH
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver
152 of 178 people
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Light socket melted around bulb
After unsuccessfully trying to change the blown light bulb I discovered that the plastic light socket had gotten so hot that it melted and permanently fused with the blown bulb. After my new socket arrived in the mail I just popped the temp control assembly out with a screw driver and removed the old socket and placed the new one in.
... Read more
Whole operation to 5 minutes.
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Parts Used:
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William from Alexandria, VA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
65 of 107 people
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