This manufacturer-certified drip bowl is also known as a drip pan, and it is designed for use with cooktops and ranges. It sits below 8-inch burner elements and catches drips and spills from the cookw...
$7.67
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This an authentic OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb, used in a number of household appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, which is why these replacement bulbs are mos...
$11.73
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The surface burner plug-in block kit features a newer-style terminal block. This kit is designed for use with ranges and cooktops. This terminal block is how the coil element on your stove connects to...
$13.42
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This light bulb is a 120 volt, 25 watt incandescent appliance light bulb with a small base screw-in that fits in a variety of appliances such as microwaves, refrigerators, freezers, cooktops, or stove...
$17.11
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This electric range economy Y-frame surface element measures eight inches and has five turns. It carries 2100 watts and is used on some electric ranges. The center medallion is chrome.
$107.20
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This hex nut is an authentic Whirlpool part that is sourced directly from the original equipment manufacturer, and will fit a variety of appliances including ovens, microwaves, refrigerators, air cond...
$9.56
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This electric range economy Y-frame surface element measures six inches and has three turns. It carries 1250 watts and is used on some electric ranges. The center medallion is chrome.
$58.47
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I unplugged the stove from the outlet, then removed the two burners I was going to be working on and the drip pans. Then I raised the top part of the stove and removed the screws holding the plug-in blocks to the stove. Then I cut the two wires going to the old plug-in block and stripped the wires back to match the new wire parts. Then I
... Read moreplaced the sleeves over the new wires, then I placed the new wire beside the wire I stripped on the stove and screw on the wire cap making sure it was tight. I repeated this three more times, once I had all four wires connected I then placed the sleeves over the connections and heated them up until they were formed around the connection. Once I had all the connections done I placed one wire at a time into the plug-in block until it locked into place ( I looked at my old plug-in blocks first to make sure I placed the new wires in the correct way ).I then used the metal mounting bracket that matched my old ones and snapped the correct one onto each plug-in block. Before mounting them onto the stove I compared them to my old ones to make sure they were correct. Then I used the new screws to mount them to the stove. I took a second look at everything I had done before closing the top cover of my stove. After lowering the cover back into place I put both the drip covers in place and then installed the burners.I then plugged the stove back into the outlet and tried the burners. This was very simple and the video on the web site shows this very well which made my job very simple.
1 - Turned off electricity to the cook top. 2 - Removed the range top from the cutout in the counter. 3 - Removed the smooth top by removing the screws around the perimiter of the smooth top. 4 - Removed the screws securing the corner closest to the dead switch. 5 - Removed the screws holding the channel, onto which th
... Read moree infinite switched were attached, to the frame of the cooktop base. 6 - Removed the dead switch by removing the screws that hold it to the channel. 7 - One by one move the wires from the old switch to the new one. 8 - Reversed the process, 6 - 5 - 4 - 3 - 2 - 1, to put the cook top back together.
All in all the part was an exact replacement and the repair went really well.
