The washing machine would only fill with cold water. This could be a problem with the controls, the wiring or the valve where the external hoses connect. Various tests, which only those with the proper skills & equipment should perform, revealed that the water valve hot side was not opening. UNPLUG the washing machine before doing any work and especially before opening any access panels. NOTE: Label all fasteners & other connections you remove so you know where they should go back. WITH the Washing Machine UNPLUGGED from the wall outlet, I unscrewed the external hot & cold hoses (make sure the water is turned off first!). I unscrewed the panel that holds the valve in a recess in the back of the machine. On this machine, the panel pulls out of the back with the valve attached to it. So I pulled the panel/valve assembly out of the recess and disconnected its electrical connectors (double-check the washing machine is unplugged before doing this). I also disconnected the internal hose that leads from the valve. Finally, I detached the valve from the panel. Installation is the reverse of removal, although it is a good idea to use a new spring clip or hose clamp, whichever you have, to attach the internal hose to your new valve. Once the valve assembly is properly installed, connect your external hoses, double-checking for hot & cold sides carefully, turn the water on and check for leaks. When all that is ok, plug the washer in and test it.

Turned off water supply and disconnected hoses. Removed rear cover where water valve was located. Marked and unplugged wires to valve along with interior hose connected to valve. Unscrewed two screws holding valve to rear cover. Installed new valve with all the above procedures in reverse. Very easy repair that saved us slot of money in service call fees!

First closed hot & cold water faucets feeding the two washer water hoses, then turned the machine on fill momentarily to bleed off water pressure in hoses, and unplugged power cord. Used pliers to help break seal on brass hose ends, removed old hoses. Removed 1/4 & 5/16 sheet metal screws, replaced leaky valves. New assembly was EATON Made in USA, high quality. Replaced rusted outlet hose spring clamp with "IDEAL" stainless screw clamp. Replaced unit in machine, installed new hoses, runs fine.

We were having some very cold weather and some element of the washing machine was making the fuse blow; probably, I realized, because something had frozen. I thawed it out, replaced the fuse, and all good. But, it started to blow fuses again. Their was no way to tell if it was the motor or some other device. I found the wiring diagram taped to the inside of the cabinet. I noticed that the motor seemed to have thermal protection of its own, and that the only other device connected to the fuse was the Water Inlet Valve. I ordered a new one, put that, and a new fuse, in, and did my laundry.

Turned off water. Disconnected hoses. Removed screw holding bracket. Pulled out bracket with valve assy. Disconnected 4 wires and slid back hose clamp. Removed hose. Removed 2 screws holding valve to bracket. Reversed order for installation.

After replacing the parts the machine is back to normal water flow.

Briefly,..never opened or worked on a washer before. But alittle searching on the net revealed an easy repair job. Ordered the part from this website, and installed it successfully. Time from beginning of problem to repair.....3 days only cost me the part...about 43 bucks