993287-1-S-Whirlpool-8577274           -Internal-Bias Thermistor
993287-1-S-Whirlpool-8577274           -Internal-Bias Thermistor 993287-2-S-Whirlpool-8577274           -Internal-Bias Thermistor http://www.partselect.com/Schematics/Maytag/Maytag_Thumb/4LNNCW1Q.gif

Internal-Bias Thermistor

PartSelect Number PS993287

Part may differ in appearance, but functions the same as original part. This part controls the temperature of the inside of the dryer drum and prevents the dryer from overheating.

This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.

This part fixes the following symptoms:

  • No heat or not enough heat.
  • Shuts off too soon.
  • Will Not Start.
  • Too hot.
  • Takes too long to dry.
  • Will not tumble.
  • Compare At

    $24.25
  • You Save

    $4.04
  • Your Price

    $20.21
In Stock
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Videos For installing this part.

Installation Instructions Provided by PartSelect customers like you.

Average Repair Rating: 3.5 / 5.0, 11 reviews What's this?
1-5 of 11
 

202 of 229 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyA Bit Difficult

Time to do repair:More than 2 hours

ToolsNutdriver, Socket set

CustomerSteven from East Norriton, PA

Dryer overheated, blew out thermal fuse

I started to repair this and got busy and ended up calling a repair service -- that was the first time. They repaired it for over $200 and said the cause was bad venting. I fixed the vent before using the fixed dryer but it blew again. So I ordered these parts and replaced them myself for a lot of savings. However, the dryer still overheated. Through lots of testing I found the root cause the repairman missed: The heating element had gotten so hot that the assembly holding it warped, hitting the element and shorting it. So a new element is on order. I still needed the parts I ordered here but the overall repair ended up more complicated and expensive. I was disappointed a paid repair person left without further diagnosis. If he had unplugged the vent and checked the heat on the exhaust vent (as I ended up doing) it would have been obvious more than a new thermal fuse/thermistor was necessary. Instead I wasted over $200 on his visit. So my advice is if you're at all handy, repair this yourself. The dryer has a service manual inside the front toe board that walks you through most diagnostics and tests. However, it took a little more than that for me to discover the heating element problem. This was a very dangerous situation that could have easily led to a fire, yet not found by a trained technician!

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18 of 23 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

  • Internal-Bias Thermistor

Level of DifficultyA Bit Difficult

Time to do repair:15 - 30 mins

ToolsNutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set

CustomerJim from Tucson, AZ

Unit would shut down in the middle of cycle and flash e1 trouble code

Had to remove the back of unit to access the area of subject part by removeing 12 to 14 screws also the gas line had to be removed. Two screws held the part in place. Unit now runs normal.Saved alot on repair costs!!!!!

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14 of 17 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyReally Easy

Time to do repair:30 - 60 mins

ToolsNutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set

Customerprem from brandon, FL

Dryer dial when set and turn on it turn off in about 2 minute.

dryer remove bottom panel and r&r thermistor very easy to do. your self diagnose help I could not have done it

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11 of 12 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

  • Internal-Bias Thermistor

Level of DifficultyEasy

Time to do repair:30 - 60 mins

ToolsNutdriver

CustomerDixon from Santa Fe, NM

Dryer turns off after 1-2 minutes

I tried to follow directions followed by others on this site after diagnosing the problem via suggestions provided by users. I have a Whirlpool Duet dryer from 2002. We've had problems since moving about 3 years ago. I removed the front panel (lower) by unscrewing the two bottom screws (1/4" sheet metal screws). Then I took out the lint screen and the metal tube/contraption immediately beneath to get access to the area where thermistor is located. See the drawing/chart to help you locate this. It's really easier than it seems. Make sure you have the chart/drawing for your model - it makes difference! The thermistor came out pretty easily with a nutdriver that has a swivel offset shaft. Ask your hardware store tool dept. about that one. Put everything back in reverse order of course and test either with/without the front panel re-attached. In my case it fixed at least part of the problem. I was able to get clothes almost dry with most settings but I have yet to install the moisture sensor to see if that helps in addition to the internal-bias thermistor. I am the kind of person that does one thing at a time so at least I now know the thermistor was bad. Good luck and hang in there with your own repair. It's a lot cheaper even if it takes you longer to do than a pro.

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4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

  • Internal-Bias Thermistor

Level of DifficultyReally Easy

Time to do repair:15 - 30 mins

ToolsScrew drivers

CustomerJoyce from Holbrook, NY

When using the dryer the cycle would stop and display e1 as the reason

Unscrewed the bottom panelof the dryer and located the thermistor through the schematic for my machine. Removed the old one and put the new one in the same way. No more E1 problems and all cycles now complete themselves.

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