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Heater Element and Electronic Control

PartSelect Number PS985207

This dishwasher heating element is not designed to heat the water that enters it, but is designed to maintain the heat of the water that enters the dishwasher. It is located on the bottom of the dishwasher. This part is for stainless steel tubs.

This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.

This part fixes the following symptoms:

  • Not drying dishes properly.
  • Not cleaning dishes properly.
  • Compare At

    $244.33
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    $40.72
  • Your Price

    $203.61
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Installation Instructions Provided by PartSelect customers like you.

Average Repair Rating: 3.0 / 5.0, 7 reviews What's this?
1-5 of 7
 

34 of 40 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

  • Heater Element and Electronic Control

Level of DifficultyA Bit Difficult

Time to do repair:1- 2 hours

ToolsNutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set

CustomerLuis from Laguna Hills, CA

Dishwasher heating element wouldn't heat

Replacing the heating element was very easy. Simply required 1) disconnecting water and power, 2) unfastening the dishwasher from the cabinet, 3) removing the big, white plastic bolts from the back, underside of the dishwasher, 4) disconnecting the electrical leads, 5) dropping in the new element from the inside of the washing chamber, 6) reconnecting the bolts and leads.

Replacing the electronic control unit was more difficult. The first challenge was figuring out where the old box was installed. There are no instructions to indicate that it is in the front door assembly. The replacement required 1) removing the 8 (or 10) torx screws from the door 2) removing the 2 torx screws that attached the front door cover 3) disconnecting the 5+ connections to the electrical control box, 4) removing the electrical control box, 5) replacing everything in reverse.

Some of the electrical connections were a little challenging to disconnect (a small set of needle nose pliers helped here). Removing the electrical control box was also a little tricky to do without damaging the plastic tabs.

In all, the electrical control box replacement took me about 60 minutes because I had to figure it out from scratch.

i hope this helps others because, in all, I am very happy that I chose to do this repair myself instead of paying for the service call.

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16 of 23 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

  • Heater Element and Electronic Control

Level of DifficultyReally Easy

Time to do repair:Less than 15 mins

ToolsNutdriver, Screw drivers

CustomerGreg from St. Peters, MO

No heat in wash/dry cycles

Heating element came with a new control board that modified the power and some cycle timing. Replacing the board required removing 6 torx screws and half a dozen connectors. Replacing the heating element was likewise very simple, requiring on the removal of two spade connectors and two retaining nuts. Start-to-finish was only 15 minutes.

As usual, Parts Select sent the correct parts, and they arrived very quickly!

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10 of 11 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

  • Heater Element and Electronic Control

Level of DifficultyEasy

Time to do repair:1- 2 hours

ToolsNutdriver, Screw drivers

Customerdean from wake forest, NC

Heater element burned through

When the dishwasher is pulled out from the cabinet the nuts that hold the element in place are readily accessible. Pull wires off spade terminals, unscrew nuts, remove and replace element. I tightened the (plastic) nuts 3/4 to 1 turn, and used a little silicone gasket maker on the rubber gaskets provided with the new element.
The electronic module is easily replaced by removing the upper part of the dorr panel (top 6 screws). Transfer the wires to it and snap it in place of the old one. This Whirlpool repair set fit perfectly in this Sears dishwasher, and works as it should.

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4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

  • Heater Element and Electronic Control

Level of DifficultyReally Easy

Time to do repair:15 - 30 mins

ToolsPliers, Screw drivers

CustomerJeffrey from Floresville, TX

Dishwasher would leave spots on the dishes, would not clean

Turned off water to unit. Removed 2 screws holding the dishwasher to the counter top. Pulled unit out and disconnected water and drain line to pull the unit completely out in the open. Disconnected electrical plug from outlet. Using help I tilted the unit foward to gain access to the underside of the unit. Disconnected the two wires from the heating element. Removed the two plastic keeper nuts that hold the element in place. Opened the front door, removed the heater element from the unit, had to work it around the spray bar. Installed new element the reverse of the removal. Then I removed the screws from the door panel to open up the top of the door to gain access to the control panel. Removed the heating element controller, no tools for this it just pops out. Removed the resistor and ceramic block from the old controller and installed it on the new one. Installed the new controller in the door, and reinstalled the panel cover and screws. Pushed unit back near opening, reconnected the electrical connector, pushed further back and reconnected the drain and water lines. Pushed all the way in, re-leveled the unit and installed the two screws back in the cabinet. Loaded the dishwasher and ran the unit to check for leaks. Everything worked great.

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3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

  • Heater Element and Electronic Control

Level of DifficultyA Bit Difficult

Time to do repair:15 - 30 mins

ToolsPliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set

CustomerJason from Clarkesville, GA

Wet dishes at end of cycle

After turning off the breaker, disconnecting the water supply, disconnecting the drain line, and taking out the two screws that fasten to the bottom of the counter top, the unit slid right out. Once the unit was out I disconnected the two leads going to the element ends and used a 3/4 ratchet to take the large plastic nuts off. The unit came out very easy and the new one slid right back in. In revers order I had the unit mounted back under the sink in just minutes. I then removed the six torx head screws that allowed the front door unit to come free. The control board was a 4 connector plugs and 1 ribbon cable. No screws on this just move over the plastic tabs and pop the board out. Ran a cycle that night and I'm back in business. Thanks PartSelect.

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