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PartSelect Number PS972325
This kit includes 2 door balance links and 2 door balance mounts with wheels.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Shut off elec. and water. remove bottom plate and 2 screws holding the unit to the counter top.disconect elec wires to unit and remove water line.Pull unit out from counter and replace cable to spring the same way as the unbroken side.Slide unit back and reverse hookup. My only problem was that the part they sent me was about a 1/2" shorter the the original and the door is hard to open.
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Removed the bottom cover plates.Removed the screws holding in the dishwasher.Removed old single moving roller and replaced with newly designed double rollers. Installed link(string).Replaced other side rollers and link.Reinstalled dishwaser.
The repair itself was relatively easy. I basically only had to remove the two screws that were securing the diswasher to the cabinetry, disconnected the water line and extended the diswasher out approximately 10 inches. I then replaced the part by hooking the new cable assembly to the spring and using pliers expanded the spring so I could snake the other end of the cable through the pulleys and attach it to the door. The otherside was my guide. This part should be modified to replace the two plastic ends with metal counterparts. This would allow the part to have a longer life especially in my case since the plastic end broke and not the cable itself.
First we removed the two screws up under the countertop that secured the dishwasher in place. Next we pulled the d/w out from under the counter, having to unplug the power cord and feeding the drain hose into the d/w cavity from under the kitchen sink to allow this. On each side, attached to a metal spring was a nylon cord with plastic attachments that ran through two plastic pullies/wheels. The plastic piece on one of the nylon cords had broken...only on one side, so we were able to just look at the 'good' side to see how to attach and string the repair part through again. We pushed the d/w back in, made sure the drain hose under the kitchen sink wasn't kinked by pulling it back under the sink from the d/w cavity, plugged it in, replaced the two securing screws and were done. The old cord running through the pullies had always creaked when the door was opened, so while the d/w was out, we coated it w/ WD40. Piece-of-cake!
For some reason I wasn't able to pull the dishwasher all the way out. Had my wife with a smaller hands and arms reached in and attached the spring with the link end onto the dishwaster anchor point. I then put on both nylon rollers. The link anchor point and rope went over the upper roller first. I then struggled and managed, with lots of pulling, to get the rope over the lower nylon roller. All went well with reattaching the water and drain lines. Plumbing in tight spaces is made for small people. This old body does not bend like it use too..
I've had to do this repair at least twice before over the last few years so I stand by my original assertion that the door "balance link kit" reflects very poor design. Well, maybe the design would be okay if the materials were not prone to breakage. However, a simpler spring-only mechanism would have been more reliable. The current design uses string embedded in plastic that latches to a hook area for both sides of the door (frame). The string is threaded around a hub and then to a spring that is in turn connected to the chassis at a rather distant point which also adds to the difficulty due to requiring greater access to the dishwasher sides. It would be much better if the repair could be done without necessitating removal of the entire unit from the cabinet cavity first. I noted that this time around there's been a redesign so that the hub is no longer a round fixed knob but now includes a rotatable wheel. So perhaps there'll now be less wear on the strings that with the prior design! -- D.A.D
Remove power. Remove drain line from sink. Remove hot water line at connection. Remove 2 screws that hold dishwasher to countertop (on top). Pull dishwasher out. Find spring as it has shot to the back when the nylon cord link broke. Hook Spring back in. Attach cord loop end (hard plastic) to spring. Attach other end to door hook. Now stretch spring to loosen cord and slip around pully system. Push dishwasher back in and rehook all connections.
Remove two screws on retainer clips holding dishwasher to counter and pulled out dishwasher. Slide new nylon cord mounting clip into slot where old part is located, rethread the cord around pulleys and attach end to spring. Need pliers to pull and stretch spring. This was the hardest part of the job but not very difficult. Push dishwasher back into counter and replace the two screws into the hold down clips under counter top. Whole job took 20 minutes.
First I removed the two screws holding the dishwasher in place. Then I pulled the dishwasher forward from under the counter about 2 feet, attached the new part to the spring and pulley, then pushed the dishwasher back into place and installed screws.PartSelect was awesome! UPS delivered to the wrong address and Partselect took care of it IMMEDIATELY! I have ordered more parts from them and no problems. I would DEFINATELY recomend them!
Once the cord broke, the stainless steel door became very heavy (eventhough the other side cord/spring combo was intact). My order came within days. The repair kit came with two complete sets (left and right sides). The repair was simple. I used the unbroken side as a guide to fix the broken side. I used all parts from the kit. The part of the repair that required time was to disconnect the electric, plumbing and drain lines. In order to pull the diswasher from the cabinet. Just remember to turn the water back on when you are finished!
I first replaced the door balance kit. I had to unhook the water supply to pull the unit out. I replaced the door balance kit first. The pieces were slightly different than my old parts, but fairly easy to figure out. Also, the spring was off on one side so had to confirm where to reconnect it. That took about 30 minutes. I then took out the racks and installed the chopper. The old one came out easily, but it took about 20 minutes to seat the new chopper properly and then reassemble the lower arm. This part of the repair was about another 30 minutes total. Lastly, I replaced the upper rack adjusters, which had broken a while ago and I had pulled together with nylon straps. The new adjusters have metal screws which should be more durable than the plastic clips used in the original equipment. This part of the job took about another 20 minutes, but was easy to complete. The dishwasher door works like new and the top rack is easier to load with the adjusters working properly again.
I removed the 2 screws that held the dishwasher under the counter. Pulled the dishwasher out and easily replaced the replacement link. I slid the dishwasher back under the counter and replaced the 2 screws. Everything now works as it should
This kit repaired the loud squeeking immediately. Worth the money because with this kit both wheels turn, so that the loud squeeking door noise wont come back. Dont waste money on the OEM kit.
Followed instructions on the web video and the paper that came with the part. The spring was very difficult to stretch to hook the cord. Skinned my knuckles and required a helper to get it together.
Pulled the dishwasher out of the cabinet, set the rope with the plastic ends on the spring and lever for the door and pulled the spring into it's holder and returned the washer into the cabinet. I ordered the part on the 27 in the morning and it got here on the 28th in the afternoon. Local part store wanted $40.00 for the same kit and I got it from you at less than 25.00. I also got to skip the service fee which would probably be about 65 dollars.
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