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PartSelect Number PS972325
This part is a door balance link kit, also sometimes known as door cable or door spring cable kit, that helps support the door as it opens and closes by connecting to the dishwashers door hinges. The kit includes two door balance links and two door balance mounts with wheels, which will replace both the left and right sides. The only tool needed is a 5/16 nut driver. Before removing the existing kit, take note of how the door balance link kit is assembled for a smooth replacement process. It is recommended to check the door springs in case they need to be replaced as well.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Replacing the float switch was fairly easy and straight forward. removed old using adjustable wrench and replaced.Replacing the door links was not difficult except I needed to pull the dishwasher out and had to disconnect the water line.reconnecting the water line was the time consuming and frustrating part. Once that was hooked up and tested, i pushed the dishwasher back in place and all is good again.
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First, I bought the door balance link to replace the broken links that connect to the springs.Because I didn't have enough slack to simply pull out the dishwasher far enough to reach the springs, I had to disconnect the water line and electrical wiring. The only reason my repair took as long as it did was because there was so little room underneath the dishwasher for disconnecting the water line. I had to buy a shorter adjustable wrench. Also, I had leaks after reconnecting the water line. I had to tighten the compression nut as far as it would go. The nut wrapped around a white substance that had been applied to the threads (I believe this is called pipe tape), which did the trick for sealing the leak.The repair was a complete success! The parts arrived fast and the information from other customers on the the PartsSelect website was invaluable.
Removed 2 screws that fasten dishwasher to underside of countertop. Pulled dishwasher out from under the countertop for access to sides. Hooked link on door, threaded cord around 2 wheels, hooked spring to back of dishwasher, stretched spring and hooked to eye on end of link cord. I found it very difficult to hook spring to link then try and stretch spring to hole at back of dishwasher. Easier to pull spring and link towards each other and connect. Note: This link was actually different from the original. The plastic end that connects to the door actually hits the first wheel when door is closed but it doesn't seem to prevent the door from locking properly (old design was better). However, I shaved this plastic end to provide better clearance.
We watched the PartSelect U tube video. Watching the PartSelect video ensured us that the door balance and rope to rear springs were installed properly. The door balance link kit was installed. The strike plate was easy to install. The door was aligned, strike plate installed. The dishwasher is operating perfectly and quiet too.
Remove 2 screws on lower baseplate. Remove 2 screws that hold dishwasher inside cabinet( may be attached to counter top or side cabinets). Turn off water supply to dishwasher. Remove any connections such as water supply, electrical connection, or waste water line that prevent dishwasher from being pulled out about 3/4 of the way. With the dishwasher door closed, remove broken parts and replace with new parts. Pull on spring to make final connection of nylon cable. Reverse the above instructions for re-installing the machine.
I turned off the circuit breaker for the dishwasher. I also shut off the water inlet valve to the feed line.Disconnected the electrical and conduit. Disconnected the drain line and the water feed line to the inlet valve. I made sure I had old towels under the unit to catch any water flowing out of the pipes once disconnected.I removed two screws holding the dishwasher up under the counter edge.Then the dishwasher rolled out of from under the counter, I rolled it over to an area where I had laid down a moving blanket. I noticed the new counterbalance "ropes and pulleys" were a bit different design than the originals so I made sure the new style pulleys would fit and they did. I replaced both sides pulleys and link ropes, then I connected the spring to the rope and pulled the spring back to connect to the rear of the frame of the dishwasher. Door fixed!The inlet valve is a piece of cake, just removed one screw and the electrical connector and replaced, reversing the process.I cleaned up under the counter where the dishwasher mounts and also shot some "Foam" into some areas where I think sounds might have been leaking into the living room on the back side of the counter, I figured it could not hurt to seal off those areas to prevent as much sound as possible from entering the other living space. I reversed the process installing the dishwasher and then ran a cycle making sure that no water was leaking from the inlet or the drain lines.It all seems to be working now.While the dishwasher was out I wanted to figure out what this "Clunk" was every time you opened the door was, turned out it was something to do with the door catching the front edge of the bottom pan of the dishwashers and then it would clunk as it sprung back. I just used my hands and kinda bent the front edge of the bottom pan of the dishwasher back in and now they don't touch and the clunk is gone. So for about $60.00 in parts and 1.5 hours of my time the dishwasher is back in operation.
First remove the front kick panel by removing 2 philips screws. Turn off the water supply, and then disconnect the supply line if not of the flexible kind. Mine was copper. Remove 2 screws holding dishwasher to counter top and pull machine out. Open door and attach replacement link by hooking the plastic end to the hinge hook on the door side and then place the string portion round the plastic pulleys and then attach the other end of the link to the end of the spring attached to the rear of the machine along the bottom side. Push dishwasher back into position, reattach supply line and re-install both screws attaching the machine to the counter top. Turn on the water supply and check for leaks. Place the kick plate into postion and secure using the 2 philips screws that were removed.
1) Pull out dishwasher from under counter. 2) Disconnect spring located at the bottom on each side of dishwasher. 3) Using socket remove pulley wheels from each side at bottom. 4) Install new pulleys on each side. 5) Wind pulley cord around both wheels and attach to one end of the spring on each side. 6) Using pliers extend other spring end to lower frame of dishwasher on each side. 7) Open and close dishwasher door to test. 8) Replacement complete
Very easy. I removed the two screws on the base plate, then the two screws that attach the washer to the cabinet, and pulled the washer out of its slot. I installed the broken side and closely checked the other side and felt it didn't need repairing. I put it back together and the door works very well.Thanks,Ted K.
Attached new link, then stretched the spring with pliers and routed link over the pulley. Replaced both links.
Pulled the dishwasher out and took the two door balance links off and put the new ones on and attached to the spring. It was very quick and easy
It was very easy.
Unplug DishwasherOpen Dishwasher doorremove all internal rackscover drain area with towelsSlide dishwasher out from under counter.1.) fixing door falling open.Assess the good side rope path and replicate in mirror image on the broken side.Replace the other side while in there.This was an easy fix2.) fixing dishwasher not startinga.) remove screws which attach front panel. Support panel while doing this as it will fall off. punch screws into scrap carboard panel in the order / position they come out so you can easily get them back where they belong.b.) remove upper screws which hold on black plastic control panel.c.) remove panel, take pictures / make notes of wire positions and colors, this can be tough to get correct if you do not do this. Once all wire positions are documented, disconnect wiring harness. THIS IS THE MOST CRITICAL PART.d.) pry out old button panel, be careful to not break the mounting tabs.e.) connect new button panel to wiring, snap into place.f.) reconnect all wires based on pictures notes.g.) reattach all screws in the order they came out.
Started the rope onto the top holder, threaded the rope around the rollers and using the pilers pulled the spring forward to attach the other end of the rope.
Using Phillips screw driver, removed 2 screws at top of unit, slid it out from under counter. Removed and replaced both sides. The hardest part was to keep the blanket on the unit which I solved with duct tape. Slid the unit back in place and works fine. The repair man wanted $29 to come out and $150. To repair
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