Door Balance Link Kit

First remove the front kick panel by removing 2 philips screws. Turn off the water supply, and then disconnect the supply line if not of the flexible kind. Mine was copper. Remove 2 screws holding dishwasher to counter top and pull machine out. Open door and attach replacement link by hooking the plastic end to the hinge hook on the door side and then place the string portion round the plastic pulleys and then attach the other end of the link to the end of the spring attached to the rear of the machine along the bottom side. Push dishwasher back into position, reattach supply line and re-install both screws attaching the machine to the counter top. Turn on the water supply and check for leaks. Place the kick plate into postion and secure using the 2 philips screws that were removed.

I turned off the circuit breaker for the dishwasher.
I also shut off the water inlet valve to the feed line.
Disconnected the electrical and conduit. Disconnected the drain line and the water feed line to the inlet valve. I made sure I had old towels under the unit to catch any water flowing out of the pipes once disconnected.
I removed two screws holding the dishwasher up under the counter edge.
Then the dishwasher rolled out of from under the counter, I rolled it over to an area where I had laid down a moving blanket.
I noticed the new counterbalance "ropes and pulleys" were a bit different design than the originals so I made sure the new style pulleys would fit and they did. I replaced both sides pulleys and link ropes, then I connected the spring to the rope and pulled the spring back to connect to the rear of the frame of the dishwasher. Door fixed!
The inlet valve is a piece of cake, just removed one screw and the electrical connector and replaced, reversing the process.
I cleaned up under the counter where the dishwasher mounts and also shot some "Foam" into some areas where I think sounds might have been leaking into the living room on the back side of the counter, I figured it could not hurt to seal off those areas to prevent as much sound as possible from entering the other living space. I reversed the process installing the dishwasher and then ran a cycle making sure that no water was leaking from the inlet or the drain lines.
It all seems to be working now.
While the dishwasher was out I wanted to figure out what this "Clunk" was every time you opened the door was, turned out it was something to do with the door catching the front edge of the bottom pan of the dishwashers and then it would clunk as it sprung back. I just used my hands and kinda bent the front edge of the bottom pan of the dishwasher back in and now they don't touch and the clunk is gone. So for about $60.00 in parts and 1.5 hours of my time the dishwasher is back in operation.

Attached new link, then stretched the spring with pliers and routed link over the pulley. Replaced both links.

Turned off water supply and electricity, removed the front kick panel on the dishwasher. Disconnected the water supply line, removed the two screws above the door securing the dishwasher to the underside of the countertop. Pulled the dishwasher out from under the counter, replaced the spring and balance link for each side. I found that the new balance link kit that I purchased was better engineered that the origanal equipment.

Pulled the dishwasher out and took the two door balance links off and put the new ones on and attached to the spring. It was very quick and easy

It was very easy.

Unplug Dishwasher
Open Dishwasher door
remove all internal racks
cover drain area with towels
Slide dishwasher out from under counter.

1.) fixing door falling open.
Assess the good side rope path and replicate in mirror image on the broken side.
Replace the other side while in there.
This was an easy fix

2.) fixing dishwasher not starting
a.) remove screws which attach front panel. Support panel while doing this as it will fall off. punch screws into scrap carboard panel in the order / position they come out so you can easily get them back where they belong.

b.) remove upper screws which hold on black plastic control panel.

c.) remove panel, take pictures / make notes of wire positions and colors, this can be tough to get correct if you do not do this. Once all wire positions are documented, disconnect wiring harness. THIS IS THE MOST CRITICAL PART.

d.) pry out old button panel, be careful to not break the mounting tabs.

e.) connect new button panel to wiring, snap into place.

f.) reconnect all wires based on pictures notes.

g.) reattach all screws in the order they came out.

Pulled out dishwasher to access the sides. Removed onld lines and then unscrewed pulley from frame using socket / nutdriver. Replaced pulleys with new units supplied in the kit and then threaded new lines onto door and springs. Repair complete in less than 5 minutes.

Hardest part of job was sliding dishwasher out. Put in wood floors so limited free space. Had to lower fron foot pegs first, then remove 2 screws from top that held unit steady. Once dishwasher was out a good 16" cords were easy to replace. Did not replace bracket that came with kit. Cords attach to heavy duty spring.

Pulled dishwasher from under the counter and replaced the plastic part with the new part and attached the new cord to the door spring and to the replacement plastic part. replaced the dishwasher under the counter and replaced the kick plate. All Done.

My 2 yr old sat on the dishwasher door while it was open. It snapped both the links on the door causing the dishwasher door to drop every time it was ajar. It was a real danger to the kids or to anyone else unaware of the door given its weight.

I ordered the part from Part Select based model and some of the posts that it was something you can do yourself. Park Select was outstanding as got the part next day and got direction from others (thank you). I did not have either side of the door working so no real gauge but finally understood how it worked once I did a search online for a picture.

Recommendation: if both links (rope) are broken, you will need to hunt down the springs on side/back of machine. The part with small hole connects to the spring, the other to the door. Make a reverse S with the rope through the pully system for tention. I did not initially do the reverse S and the part popped of the door once I closed it. Otherwise, easy thing to do and certainly do not need a repair person.....if you need picture, do a search on dishwasher door pully system

I pulled the dishwasher out just over half way to access the spring area. Unscrewed the old assembly and screwed the new one in it's place. Attached the string line to the spring, wrapped it around the assembly and attached it to the door hook. Repeated procedure on other side. Problem solved.

Very easy. I removed the two screws on the base plate, then the two screws that attach the washer to the cabinet, and pulled the washer out of its slot. I installed the broken side and closely checked the other side and felt it didn't need repairing. I put it back together and the door works very well.

Thanks,
Ted K.

Fairly easy. Undid the two screws on the kick plate. Then used pliers to undo the leveling legs and pulled the dishwasher out from under the cabinet. The dishwasher is hard-wired with extra electric cable. The drainage tube is flexible and there is extra so I did not have to worry about disconnecting anything. I then attached the new door cable link to the spring. Using the Needle-nosed Vise Grips I pulled the cable so I had enough to make the connection on the door piece. Done. Then I put everything back.

1st pull dishwasher out. attach the new cable to the spring. reinstall the spring on the frame. Use pliers to pull slack in the cable to attach the cable to the door. The hardest thing about the install was putting the screws in the side of the dishwasher to the cabinets.