Dual Inlet Water Valve

First I removed the incoming water line from the valve. I then removed the screw that hold the valve in place. Then I pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two connector wires. Next I cut the plastic hoses from the old valve.
To install the new valve, I inserted the two plastic hoses into the new valve. (hoses are different diameters so it is next to impossible to insert them incorrectly.) I replaced the electrical connectors (This was the only glitch since the one connector on the refrigerator is larger then the pins on the new valve, A little electrical tape held the connector in place.) I then tightened the screw that holds the valve on the refirgerator and reconnected the household water to line to the valve.
The entire job took less time then it has taken me to type the procedure.

Removed the hoses and the old valve; numbered the electrical and hose connections on the old wires and valve with a marker to make connection easier;

Had to cut the hose fittings, since the new valve was a simple hose insertion and the old had screw-on fittings.

Installed the new valve. The ice maker works fine. However, the dispenser does not work; apparently there is no signal from the switches to the devices. But at least I have ice.

After hunting around I found that the inlet water valve was leaking. I turned off the water and ordered a new part from Part Select. It came and I put it in. I had to disconnected the three water lines (one in, two out) and the electrical connections. Keep track of what came from where. I plugged everything back into the new valve. Piece of cake.

Changing the valve was easy, remove and replace. The problem came afterwards. After shuting off the water and waiting for the replacement valve, the water line coming in to the icemaker froze solid causing water to spray into the freezer, causing a major leak. After thawing out the line, it still leaked because the water in the freezer had frozen up the freezer drain again causing another leak.Bottom line, after replaceing the valve, take a few extra minutes to check or replace the water line coming to the icemaker. That will save a headache later.

Pulled unit away from wall. Removed lower panel. Turned off water and electricity. Removed two nuts holding valve. Disconnected electrial wiring. Cut water lines going into old valve close to the valve so the lines could be reused with new unit. Installed new valve by pressing lines into valve, reconnected electricity. Put two screws back in. Turned on water and electricity. Works great. No leaks. Results of leaks required hardwood floor to be repaired (sanded and refinished). Stayed away from kitchen for nine (9) days. Need to check for leaks everytime you clean under the refrigerator.

Rolled out the frigerator from the wall. Removed the electrical plug from the wall. Turned off the water valve; disconnected the inlet water line at the frigerator. Detached the dual valve assembly from the frigerator; identified and disconnected the outlet water lines and the four electrical lines from the old valve and installed them on to the new valve. Remounted the dual valve assembly on to the frigerator. Turned on the water and checked for leaks. Re-plugged the electric cord in the wall outlet; pushed the refgrigerator back into position. Total elapsed time was about 15 minutes, not counting the time I directed my wife to get me various tools from my work bench and the time it took me remove my 88 year old body from the kitchen floor, back to an upright position. Peeked into the freezer several times over several hours to be certain there were no leaks.

replaced solenoid

Followed the directions on the web site and did everything that was instructed to do and had no problems with installing the new dual water Valve. Has been in now for a week and no more over filling or freezing water in the storage box. Lots of clean ice, now!

Well I Googled the problem to the dual inlet water valve. Luckily I found PartSelect for the correct part and the installation was simple. I now have both the cubes and water working properly from the dispense.

removed backing from the refrigerator then unscrewed the pump from refrigerator unhooked the electrial connections. Then hooked up new pump by connectioning the elctrical then putting water connections back on with the quick connects then plugged refrigetator back in the reinstalled back of refrigerator and slide back into place as simple as 123

It was very easy replacement. I was sent a different style that allowed for the water tubes to be pushed in compression wise instead of havinf to screw them on. The water was going ok to the cold water in the door but was not functioning for the ice maker. I had already replaced the ice maker unit due to a couple of missing teeth in the turn wheel but still could not get the water to fill. The original problem was created by the missing teeth creating a steady flow of water ultimately all over the floor. It took booth units to fix the problem and now the ice maker works as it should. The valve came with the proper connectors and the toughest part of the job was pulling out the frig. Nice to have something work as described and fit perfectly. A simple nut driver or socket was all that was needed for the entire job.

Turned off water, ordered part based on photo and partial appliance model number (my model number was not listed); removed old part using hand wrench and nutdriver: slid existing retaining nuts up waterlines(left on for furture reuse if needed) and slid lines into "Pex" type connectors and remounted (one screw) valve to refrigerator and turned on water.

Note: From Part ordered to received was less than 36 hours!

Consulted with a service tech and he said there is no way you can put the water valve in incorrectly since all three fittings are of different size. Followed the normal disassembly procedure shutting off the water, electricity, and took unit off the ref. The main confusion is attaching the plastic lines of different size back into the valve. THERE ARE NO INSTRUCTIONS THAT COME WITH THE VALVE Instead of screwing the diff size lines back into the unit, you have to cut the line (not too much) which removes the nuts, and plug them straight back into the unit. SOUNDS TOO GOOD TO BE TRUE FOR A WATER CONNECTION. The tech emphasized the cut has to be STRAIGHT/FLUSH witht the inlet and continuous or it will leak.

Tested it for three days with no leaks and put it back in reverse order How come all water connections can't be that easy?

We pulled out our refrigerator and found the leak coming from a valve that controlled the purified water and ice machine. We shut of the water source at our filter system and then removed the part. Looked online and found the part we needed at a great price. Ordered it and installed it when it arrived 3 days later. Easy install and we now have water and ice coming from our refrigerator again- not to mention a clean floor underneath too.

Plastic lines were cracked open right at valve and leaking water onto floor. Bad design on GE's part, plastic lines where heat was produced by compressor.

Turned off water supply.

Removed cardboard panel at rear bottom of refrigerator.

Unscrewed copper fill tube clamp.

Took copper fill tube off of valve using 1/2 inch (I think) open end wrench. This used compression fitting.

Removed solenoid by unscrewing one hex-head screws.

Pulled off two electrical connectors.

Trimmed ends of plastic tubes (they were hardened by heat, and will likely leak again.)

Pushed tubed into new solenoid valves (original connection was via some plastic nut and fitting.)

Reattached electrical connectors, using lug adapters (included in package) on one to make up for slightly narrower terminal on new valve.

Reattached copper fill line to valve using original compression fitting. **Had to bend line to make it fit between new lower valve inlet and screw clamp on refrigerator housing.** That was only slightly tricky part of job.

Reattached valve to refrigerator and replaced cardboard panel.

Turned water on and everything worked, and no leaks.

Will likely need to do this again when old stiff lines crack again.