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PartSelect Number PS901314
This valve comes with 1/4" compression inlet.
NOTE: This part comes with new quick connections. To install - cut retaining nuts off of existing plastic water lines and gently push them into new valve. To remove - depress ring that the tube slides into.
This part works with the following brands: GE, Hotpoint & Kenmore.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
The valve I got was slightly bent up. I spent the first 10 minutes or so bending it back with my muscles. once that was done, I took off the backing of the fridge with the screwdriver, undid the single bolt holding the valve on, and unplugged it all (fridge was already unplugged). Just like everyone says, the tubing connecter is different, so I took off the old compression fittings, and pushed the tubes in. THen I hooked up the wiring... I realized that that the wiring adapter was needed but there wasn't enough room for it as is.. so I have to bend the tabs so the wiring would angle down. Everything has worked perfect since... I got Ice and no leaks! woo hoo!
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shut the water supply to the refridgerator unscrewed valve mount removed removed valve supply line with half inch wrench loosened and removed plastic nuts on outlet by hand unplugged both valve actuator cables. loosened two phillips screws from reservior removed inlet and outlet hoses replaced with new parts very simple repair
Removed three screws, water input line, two water output lines. The new valve had push on fittings instead of screw on, so had to cut the old fittings off. Connecte input and output lines Replaced three screws holding valve in place. Turned water back on. Finished.
First I removed the incoming water line from the valve. I then removed the screw that hold the valve in place. Then I pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two connector wires. Next I cut the plastic hoses from the old valve.To install the new valve, I inserted the two plastic hoses into the new valve. (hoses are different diameters so it is next to impossible to insert them incorrectly.) I replaced the electrical connectors (This was the only glitch since the one connector on the refrigerator is larger then the pins on the new valve, A little electrical tape held the connector in place.) I then tightened the screw that holds the valve on the refirgerator and reconnected the household water to line to the valve.The entire job took less time then it has taken me to type the procedure.
Pulled the fridge out from the wall, disconnected the power cord,turned off the water supply,removed the backing that covers the fan/motor and the two way water valve. Removed one screw that holds water valve to back of fridge,removed two water lines. Installed the new water valve , connected water lines and screw, installed back dust cover, plugged in the 110 cord, turned on the water valve. Within 30 minutes a new tray of ice cubes was ejected into the ice holding box. Mission completed.
Basically I looked online for some research thru google and found this great site.. A few other folks had the same problem as I had with mine and I figured that I would start with replacing the double outlet water valve.. So I ordered it from this site and in two days wow that's fast shipping.. This repair took less than 15 minutes to complete and talk about a big savings $ 45.00 for this repair job.... I'm really happy now.... It's pretty easy though.. simply unplug frig first... then remove screw holding the valve.. remove clips and have a bowl near by when remoing the two hoses... replace valve.. its all colored coded just match the colors and then the two hoses they are different sizes one for each hole... reclip the clips and then replace the screw and finally plug the frig back in.. and then turn on the water to check for leaks.. if no leaks you are done...
After hunting around I found that the inlet water valve was leaking. I turned off the water and ordered a new part from Part Select. It came and I put it in. I had to disconnected the three water lines (one in, two out) and the electrical connections. Keep track of what came from where. I plugged everything back into the new valve. Piece of cake.
Changing the valve was easy, remove and replace. The problem came afterwards. After shuting off the water and waiting for the replacement valve, the water line coming in to the icemaker froze solid causing water to spray into the freezer, causing a major leak. After thawing out the line, it still leaked because the water in the freezer had frozen up the freezer drain again causing another leak.Bottom line, after replaceing the valve, take a few extra minutes to check or replace the water line coming to the icemaker. That will save a headache later.
Pulled unit away from wall. Removed lower panel. Turned off water and electricity. Removed two nuts holding valve. Disconnected electrial wiring. Cut water lines going into old valve close to the valve so the lines could be reused with new unit. Installed new valve by pressing lines into valve, reconnected electricity. Put two screws back in. Turned on water and electricity. Works great. No leaks. Results of leaks required hardwood floor to be repaired (sanded and refinished). Stayed away from kitchen for nine (9) days. Need to check for leaks everytime you clean under the refrigerator.
Rolled out the frigerator from the wall. Removed the electrical plug from the wall. Turned off the water valve; disconnected the inlet water line at the frigerator. Detached the dual valve assembly from the frigerator; identified and disconnected the outlet water lines and the four electrical lines from the old valve and installed them on to the new valve. Remounted the dual valve assembly on to the frigerator. Turned on the water and checked for leaks. Re-plugged the electric cord in the wall outlet; pushed the refgrigerator back into position. Total elapsed time was about 15 minutes, not counting the time I directed my wife to get me various tools from my work bench and the time it took me remove my 88 year old body from the kitchen floor, back to an upright position. Peeked into the freezer several times over several hours to be certain there were no leaks.
removed backing from the refrigerator then unscrewed the pump from refrigerator unhooked the electrial connections. Then hooked up new pump by connectioning the elctrical then putting water connections back on with the quick connects then plugged refrigetator back in the reinstalled back of refrigerator and slide back into place as simple as 123
It was very easy replacement. I was sent a different style that allowed for the water tubes to be pushed in compression wise instead of havinf to screw them on. The water was going ok to the cold water in the door but was not functioning for the ice maker. I had already replaced the ice maker unit due to a couple of missing teeth in the turn wheel but still could not get the water to fill. The original problem was created by the missing teeth creating a steady flow of water ultimately all over the floor. It took booth units to fix the problem and now the ice maker works as it should. The valve came with the proper connectors and the toughest part of the job was pulling out the frig. Nice to have something work as described and fit perfectly. A simple nut driver or socket was all that was needed for the entire job.
Turned off water, ordered part based on photo and partial appliance model number (my model number was not listed); removed old part using hand wrench and nutdriver: slid existing retaining nuts up waterlines(left on for furture reuse if needed) and slid lines into "Pex" type connectors and remounted (one screw) valve to refrigerator and turned on water.Note: From Part ordered to received was less than 36 hours!
Consulted with a service tech and he said there is no way you can put the water valve in incorrectly since all three fittings are of different size. Followed the normal disassembly procedure shutting off the water, electricity, and took unit off the ref. The main confusion is attaching the plastic lines of different size back into the valve. THERE ARE NO INSTRUCTIONS THAT COME WITH THE VALVE Instead of screwing the diff size lines back into the unit, you have to cut the line (not too much) which removes the nuts, and plug them straight back into the unit. SOUNDS TOO GOOD TO BE TRUE FOR A WATER CONNECTION. The tech emphasized the cut has to be STRAIGHT/FLUSH witht the inlet and continuous or it will leak.Tested it for three days with no leaks and put it back in reverse order How come all water connections can't be that easy?
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