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PartSelect Number PS901314
This valve comes with 1/4" compression inlet.
NOTE: This part comes with new quick connections. To install - cut retaining nuts off of existing plastic water lines and gently push them into new valve. To remove - depress ring that the tube slides into.
This part works with the following brands: GE, Hotpoint & Kenmore.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
1. Turn off water supply, and electrical ( unplug it) to fridge.2. Remove water line to valve. Watch for water to pour out of the line. Have a towel handy.3. Remove the cardboard cover on the bottom of the fridge.4. Remove the screws that hold the valve in place.5. Remove the valve, be careful the waterlines are still attached.6. Place a towel under valve to catch any water that leaks out from water lines.7. Remove electrical lines, make sure to mark which went where. One is for the ice, and one is for the water. Make sure the power is off, there is 120 volts present at those connections. - now my waterlines attached using a compression type fitting. The new valve I got used just a push in type of attachment. But, easy enough I just removed the pieces for the compression and the waterlines pushed right in and worked fine.- the mounting harness for the valve was alittle different but the parts I need were in the right location and she fit in fine.8. Attach water lines. They are different sizes so you can't get those mixed up.9. Attach electrical lines.- the new valve came with adaptors for my electrical connection. Just snapped them on and kept on going.10. turn on watersupply for fridge. Plug it back in.11. Test for leaks, and proper operation. ie. When you push the water does the water valve open?12. Unplug fridge13. Now is a good time to clean out any dust or dirt that has accumallated in under around your fridge.14. reassemble, valve, then cover. move fridge back into place.15. Plug fridge back in.16. Take a clean glass.17. Fill with water from the front.18. Take full glass of water and go watch tv. You've earned it, and saved yourself probably $100.00 in labor costs. Good Job.
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The actual repair was a snap. However, be sure you check to make sure all of the parts are there. The two electrical adapter/connectors were missing from the water valve package, so I could not complete the job until a new valve could be shipped. The two adapters are essential to proper operation of the water valve. New ones arrived in 3 days.DISASSEMBLY:1. Unplug the refrigerator.2. Shut off the water supply to the icemaker.3. Remove the screws holding the cardboard cover onto the lower back side of the refrigerator, using a nut driver.4. Disconnect the water supply line from the top of the water valve.5. Remove the screw holding the water valve bracket onto the back of the refrigerator.6. Unscrew the two water feed tubes from the water valve (one goes to the icemaker and one to the cold water dispenser).7. Pull the two electrical connectors straight out of the back of the water valve. They are color-coded, but it won't hurt to label them with a small piece of masking tape.NOTE:Since I wanted this to be fixed and to not have to deal with it for years to come, I also replaced the plastic tubing running up the back of the refrigerator, the grommet that goes through the back of the refrigerator into the freezer compartment, and the water tube the pours water into the icemaker's tray - and it was well worth the few extra dollars and 10 extra minutes of work. To do this part:1. Inside the freezer section, loosen the two screws holding the icemaker to the back of the freezer (you do not need to remove the screws, but it won't hurt anything if you do remove them).2. Slide the icemaker upward until it clears the two screws enough that you can set the icemaker out of the way.3. Grasp the 1/2-inch plastic tube that points toward the front of the freezer and pull it toward you until it comes out.4. At the back of the refrigerator, pull out the plastic grommet that held the tube you just removed, near the top of the refrigerator.5. Remove the thin water tube that runs from the water valve up the back of the refrigerator to the grommet.ASSEMBLY:1. Basically, reverse the order of disassembly.CONCLUSION:It took longer to type the instructions than it would have taken to do the job. If only the elctrical connectors had been there the first time.
Plastic lines to ice maker and water dispenser cracked from heat. Replaced Icemaker line by removeing 2 screws holding Icemaker then two more holding icemaker mount, Pulled large plastic tube that water runs down. From back of unit removed grommet that goes thru refrigerator back, then bent open clamp and pulled out 1/4 " line. Reversed process to install. After doing this I believe it could all be done from the back with out removing the icemaker. Just pry open the clamp on the grommet and pull the 1/4" icemaker line out of the grommet. The water supply tube was a a little challenge. The 5/16 tube comes thru at the bottom of the fridge under the meat bin. Remove the meat bin and the next bin up to gain access. I cut the tube off with a side cutters about 1/2 of the way between the floor of the fridge and the water tank. Then I took the new line and attached the old line to the new line with a bolt of the correct od with the head cut off so I could tie the two lines together. Then I pulled the old line out from the back of the fridge while pushing the new line in. Attached the line from the tank to the new line with the Water tube union then cut the line off in the back and installed a new Dual inlet valve and the icemaker, drinking water line and supply line to it. Let it sit over night making ice and made sure no leaks before pushing back.
Replaced water valve. Removed cardboard rear cover, disconnected one copper waterline in, two plastic waterlines out, two electrical connectors and one mounting screw. Reverse to install replacement valve except plastic water lines connect to new valve by inserting into the valve instead of threading onto the fitting. Slide the plastic fittings further onto the water line and insert the ends into the valve. FYI .......water in the door functions independent of icemaker, I had water but no ice.Working well now, actuator pad and dispenser grill were replaced due to wear [cosmetic] and had nothing to due with the icemaker malfunctioning.
This problem had already occurred in 2008. Repairman replaced dual water valve. Cost $190.00. We decided to do it ourselves this time. The repairs were actually made in three phases. First, when I pulled the fridge out from the wall, unplugged it, and turned the water valve back on I discovered that the plastic tubing from water supply into the fridge had long cracks in it and water was spraying out everywhere. I turned water off, went to Lowe's and bought the kit for that repair. Of course I didn't have to use all of the parts in the kit because the water supply was already there from the valve that came up through the floor. After turning the water back on and plugging the fridge back in, my husband and I tested it by trying the water dispenser. We found that water was leaking from somewhere inside the fridge, but didn't know where. After UNPLUGGING it, and turning the water off again, I took the metal back off at the bottom. It was leaking from the bigger plastic tubing (5/16"). It was just hanging, not connected into the dual water valve. Figured it had just broken. So I thought I just needed 5/16" tubing. I went on the GE website and it was very hard to get answers to my problem because I couldn't find the plastic tubing that it looked like. I ended up ordering the plastic tubing that goes up that back of the fridge to the icemaker. They sent me two of those, not one for the freezer and the bigger clear one (5/16") that I thought I needed. Then, I found this website! This PartSelect website is great!! After reading about other consumer repairs, I knew how to disconnect the dual water valve and found out that the smaller plastic tubing that goes up the back of the fridge to the icemaker had been pinched where it connects to the dual water value, barley hanging on. Just quick disconnected it from the valve by pushing up on the outside where the tubing comes out while pulling on the tubing. It came out, and I had to use needle nose pliers to pull some of it out where it had broken off inside. Then, pushed the new tubing into the valve and ran it up the back of the fridge, unscrewed the plate that goes over the clamp that holds the tubing, loosened the clamp a little, pulled the old tubing out, pushed the new tubing in, (the clamp was still tight enough) put the metal plate back on and replaced the screws. Then I re-connected the dual water valve to the electric clips, connected the 5/16" tubing to the right side of the valve. (The black tubing that goes up the back of the fridge goes into the left side of the valve.) put it back into place and screwed it back against the body of the fridge where it goes, put the back on and plugged it back in. We tested it again, and water was leaking, but not from where I made my first repair. I reversed everything again, and discovered that where the 5/16" tubing goes into the dual water value, it seemed more loose than it should have been. That is where the water was leaking from! I ordered the dual water valve, the 5/16" plastic tubing and the water tube union. I replaced the dual water valve-very easy! MAKE SURE YOU UNPLUG THE FRIDGE, turn the water supply off, disconnect the small tubing from the dual water valve, disconnect the electric connections to the valve, and reverse the process. What I did was replace the 5/16" tubing the comes out of valve & goes up into the storage tank behind crisper drawer. Used union there. Put everything back together and it works!!
The icemaker's valve is easy to inspect and test. First, gently pull the refrigerator away from the wall, and unplug it. Turn off the water supply to the icemaker by closing the shut-off valve in the copper waterline leading to the valve. Use a screwdriver or nutdriver to remove the rear lower access panel from the refrigerator's back. Next, remove the fill tubing from the water valve. Use a wrench to loosen the flare nut on the brass fitting on the inlet side of the valve (above). Place a container or towel under the valve to catch the small amount of water that will spill from the valve and tubing. Now use a screwdriver or a nutdriver to remove the screw holding the valve's mounting bracket to the refrigerator cabinet. Pull the valve out of the compartment and remove the tube (or tubes if both water dispenser & ice maker) on the valve's outlet. If plastic tubes don't come out with pliers and assuming there is enough extra tubing, then cut the plastic tubing with a even straight cut edge razor. Then, remove the solenoid's electrical contacts.Push the plastic water and ice tubes int he appropriate holes in the new valve outlet, reconnect solenoids and remount new water valve.Before installing the back panel on the refrigerator cabinet, test run the icemaker. Look for leaks, and tighten any leaky connections. If necessary, use Teflon tape or a similar product to ensure tight connections. Discard the first ice cubes that are produced because they are likely to have sediment in them.
Replace the old water valve (wr57x11) with the new one (wr57x10051: make sure you unplug the 110 ac power . And close the water come to the refrig. First 1. Open the paper panel on the back with screw driver. 2 Use a small adj. Wrench to take the old valve of. 3. Label the connector and its terminals in a proper number to identify their connector. 4. Unscrew 2 water hoses - one to the drinking one to the ice maker. They are in diff. Sizes - make sure to mark where the hoses connected in case you need to use it again. 5. Cut of the thread section on the hose end - you do not need thread any more on the new water valve. 6. Make sure the new valve is in the same position as the old one. Then plug the water hoses to the valve - and connector terminals. There are 2 new terminal adapter in your new package. These new adapter will be fit to the old hardness for connecting to the new valve. 7. Secure the valve onto the refig frame then plug in the water hose to make sure no leak at the valve. The new valve has new type of self-lock plug ( not thread ) to the 2 water hoses. Make sure to press hard so the hoses are fit in to these new water . Valves. Turn on the water and power on on the refrig. That's all. Very simple save $300 for hiring the service man. Good luck to all.
Shut water off to frig...remove cover from back...remove one screw holding solenoid valve. Remove color coded clip on wiring from valve...noting each for replacement. Remove ice machine quick connect water tube, then water dispenser quick connect water tube...the two tubes are different size...so no confusion. Then simply reverse procedure for new installlation.
Unplug the electrical power to the refridgerator, remove old valve, marking which electrical wire set goes to which solenoid valve. Cut the nut fasteners from the ice maker and front door water tubes. Leave the nut fastener on the supply line.New valve - remove plastic shipping protection guard, remove rubber cap from supply connection, bend mounting bracket to a 90 degree bend, attach electrical wire reducers to the small wattage solenoid wires then to the solenoid, attach large wattage solenoid wires to the large solenoid, push ice maker tube into the small quick-connection(no nut fastener needed), push the front door water into the large quick-connection, finally mount valve asembly using same holes in frame as held the old valve assembly. Plug in the power. Solenoid valves may take an hour or so to operate.
I removed the back cover on the refrigerator. Unbolted the unit. First of all I unpluged the refrigerator. Took off the two electrical connections and removed the input and output water lines. I then reversed this process when I installed the new part. It was real easy.
This Valve Has 2 Different Size Water Lines Going In To It And They Are Different Diameters.Each Has Its Own Collar That Locks The Lines Into It. Make Sure That You Put The Right Size Collar Over The Line Before You Insert It Into The Valve, Because Once You Put The Line In You Cant Pull It Back Out Without Messing Up The Valve. Make Sure It Is Right Because You Only Get One Shot At It.
Simple. UNPLUG THE FRIDGE. Remove set screw holding valve to frame, switch hoses one at a time into new valve, switch wires one set at a time from old to new, re-attach the new valve, turn on water , plug in fridge, check for leaks. 2-minute job.
Pulled out the fridge, took off the cardboard back. Get a nut driver instead of screwdriver (easier). TURN OFF WATER NOW. UNPLUG FRIDGE NOW. Removed one screw holding valve. Pulled off electrical connectors. Use two small adjustable wrenches to remove water lines. Tag the plastic tubes (I marked RED and BLUE). Grab the new valve and try to stuff it into the same space. Whoops ! Dang plastic housing protecting the electrical from the water is in the way. Have to cut most of it out to make it fit. By the way, DONT follow the instructions about take the bracket off the OLD solenoid. You don't need it. Just throw it away. Connect the wires (remember to use the adapters sent with the new solenoid) Mount the new solenoid (now that the plastic is out of the way) with the one screw (nut driver). Hook up the supply water line (wrenches). Hook up the plastic tubes (aren't you glad you marked them ?). The tubes just push into the new solenoid, no more threads. I just left the plastic nuts on the tubing. TURN ON THE WATER. Check your connections for leaking. Do this before plugging in the fridge. If OK, plug in the fridge. Run some water on the door, look in about an hour to see if cubes are making now. Put cardboard back on fridge. Push fridge back against wall. CONGRATULATE YOURSELF ON A JOB WELL DONE.
I first tested to make sure the solenoid was receiving power. Every time the arm on the ice maker cycled, the meter would go up to 120v for about 10-15 seconds, and then back to almost 0, so I knew the electical control and timer was working as it should. The valve was easy to change - took about 20 minutes total (including pulling the fridge out and pushing it back in). I just turned the water off, removed the valve assembly from the fridge, and took all of the lines off of the old one. I then hooked up the supply line to the new valve assembly. The lines to the water and ice had compression fittings on them, but the new vavle has a "push-in" connector. So, I cut the old water and ice lines squarely, just past the fitting, then pushed them in firmly. Plugged the connectors in, re-attached the vavle assembly to the fridge, turned the water back on, and viola - I had ice in about an hour! Gravy! :)
Disregard previous.1. Turn off water supply.2. Unplug power cord.3. Remove bottom Panel to access the Solenoid valve.4. Remove the water lines from the Valve.5. Remove the Valve from the refrigerator.6. Remove the electrical connectors from the valve.(make sure the new valve has the connector adaptors included) you will need them during installation.7.Bend the new valve bracket inward about 45 degrees to clear the compressor coolant line.8.Use a pair of pliers to braek away the plastic on the new valve for clearance.9.If needed remove the compression fitings from the old water line installation as the new valve comes with the push and lock feature.10.Install the bottom 2 water lines they are different sizes11.Mount the new valve to refrigerator and tighten.12.Install the ice maker water line to the top fitting on the valve.13.Plug the power cord in & turn on the water supply,check for leaks and proper operation on the valve.
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