901314-1-S-GE-WR57X10051        -Dual Inlet Water Valve
901314-1-S-GE-WR57X10051        -Dual Inlet Water Valve 901314-2-S-GE-WR57X10051        -Dual Inlet Water Valve 901314-3-S-GE-WR57X10051        -Dual Inlet Water Valve http://www.partselect.com/Schematics/GE/00006646i01.gif

Dual Inlet Water Valve

PartSelect Number PS901314

Manufacturer Part Number WR57X10051
Manufactured by GE

This valve comes with 1/4" compression inlet. NOTE: This part comes with new quick connections. To install - cut retaining nuts off of existing plastic water lines and gently push them into new valve. To remove - depress ring that the tube slides into.

This part works with the following brands: GE, Hotpoint & Kenmore.

This part fixes the following symptoms:

  • Leaking.
  • Ice maker not making ice.
  • Not dispensing water.
  • Ice maker won’t dispense ice.
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    $46.12
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    $38.43
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Videos For installing this part.

Installation Instructions Provided by PartSelect customers like you.

Average Repair Rating: 3.8 / 5.0, 82 reviews What's this?
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231 of 248 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Dual Inlet Water Valve
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Customer: anthony from thornton, CO

Cracked housing on the vaave

1. Turn off water supply, and electrical ( unplug it) to fridge.
2. Remove water line to valve. Watch for water to pour out of the line. Have a towel handy.
3. Remove the cardboard cover on the bottom of the fridge.
4. Remove the screws that hold the valve in place.
5. Remove the valve, be careful the waterlines are still attached.
6. Place a towel under valve to catch any water that leaks out from water lines.
7. Remove electrical lines, make sure to mark which went where. One is for the ice, and one is for the water. Make sure the power is off, there is 120 volts present at those connections.
- now my waterlines attached using a compression type fitting. The new valve I got used just a push in type of attachment. But, easy enough I just removed the pieces for the compression and the waterlines pushed right in and worked fine.
- the mounting harness for the valve was alittle different but the parts I need were in the right location and she fit in fine.
8. Attach water lines. They are different sizes so you can't get those mixed up.
9. Attach electrical lines.
- the new valve came with adaptors for my electrical connection. Just snapped them on and kept on going.
10. turn on watersupply for fridge. Plug it back in.
11. Test for leaks, and proper operation. ie. When you push the water does the water valve open?
12. Unplug fridge
13. Now is a good time to clean out any dust or dirt that has accumallated in under around your fridge.
14. reassemble, valve, then cover. move fridge back into place.
15. Plug fridge back in.
16. Take a clean glass.
17. Fill with water from the front.
18. Take full glass of water and go watch tv. You've earned it, and saved yourself probably $100.00 in labor costs. Good Job.

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75 of 85 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set
Customer: Stephen from Raleigh, NC

The icemaker was leaking water into the freezer, causing the freezer to be covered inside with ice.

The actual repair was a snap. However, be sure you check to make sure all of the parts are there. The two electrical adapter/connectors were missing from the water valve package, so I could not complete the job until a new valve could be shipped. The two adapters are essential to proper operation of the water valve. New ones arrived in 3 days.

DISASSEMBLY:

1. Unplug the refrigerator.
2. Shut off the water supply to the icemaker.
3. Remove the screws holding the cardboard cover onto the lower back side of the refrigerator, using a nut driver.
4. Disconnect the water supply line from the top of the water valve.
5. Remove the screw holding the water valve bracket onto the back of the refrigerator.
6. Unscrew the two water feed tubes from the water valve (one goes to the icemaker and one to the cold water dispenser).
7. Pull the two electrical connectors straight out of the back of the water valve. They are color-coded, but it won't hurt to label them with a small piece of masking tape.

NOTE:

Since I wanted this to be fixed and to not have to deal with it for years to come, I also replaced the plastic tubing running up the back of the refrigerator, the grommet that goes through the back of the refrigerator into the freezer compartment, and the water tube the pours water into the icemaker's tray - and it was well worth the few extra dollars and 10 extra minutes of work. To do this part:

1. Inside the freezer section, loosen the two screws holding the icemaker to the back of the freezer (you do not need to remove the screws, but it won't hurt anything if you do remove them).
2. Slide the icemaker upward until it clears the two screws enough that you can set the icemaker out of the way.
3. Grasp the 1/2-inch plastic tube that points toward the front of the freezer and pull it toward you until it comes out.
4. At the back of the refrigerator, pull out the plastic grommet that held the tube you just removed, near the top of the refrigerator.
5. Remove the thin water tube that runs from the water valve up the back of the refrigerator to the grommet.

ASSEMBLY:

1. Basically, reverse the order of disassembly.

CONCLUSION:

It took longer to type the instructions than it would have taken to do the job. If only the elctrical connectors had been there the first time.

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46 of 55 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
Time to do repair: 1- 2 hours
Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set
Customer: James from Richfield, WI

Leaking water

Plastic lines to ice maker and water dispenser cracked from heat. Replaced Icemaker line by removeing 2 screws holding Icemaker then two more holding icemaker mount, Pulled large plastic tube that water runs down. From back of unit removed grommet that goes thru refrigerator back, then bent open clamp and pulled out 1/4 " line. Reversed process to install.
After doing this I believe it could all be done from the back with out removing the icemaker. Just pry open the clamp on the grommet and pull the 1/4" icemaker line out of the grommet.

The water supply tube was a a little challenge. The 5/16 tube comes thru at the bottom of the fridge under the meat bin. Remove the meat bin and the next bin up to gain access. I cut the tube off with a side cutters about 1/2 of the way between the floor of the fridge and the water tank. Then I took the new line and attached the old line to the new line with a bolt of the correct od with the head cut off so I could tie the two lines together. Then I pulled the old line out from the back of the fridge while pushing the new line in. Attached the line from the tank to the new line with the Water tube union then cut the line off in the back and installed a new Dual inlet valve and the icemaker, drinking water line and supply line to it. Let it sit over night making ice and made sure no leaks before pushing back.

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38 of 44 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set
Customer: Mark from Mars, PA

Icemaker stopped working.

Replaced water valve. Removed cardboard rear cover, disconnected one copper waterline in, two plastic waterlines out, two electrical connectors and one mounting screw. Reverse to install replacement valve except plastic water lines connect to new valve by inserting into the valve instead of threading onto the fitting. Slide the plastic fittings further onto the water line and insert the ends into the valve. FYI .......water in the door functions independent of icemaker, I had water but no ice.
Working well now, actuator pad and dispenser grill were replaced due to wear [cosmetic] and had nothing to due with the icemaker malfunctioning.

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23 of 29 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Pliers
Customer: Laura from Zanesville, OH

Water was leaking from back of fridge. Not able to use icemaker

This problem had already occurred in 2008. Repairman replaced dual water valve. Cost $190.00. We decided to do it ourselves this time. The repairs were actually made in three phases. First, when I pulled the fridge out from the wall, unplugged it, and turned the water valve back on I discovered that the plastic tubing from water supply into the fridge had long cracks in it and water was spraying out everywhere. I turned water off, went to Lowe's and bought the kit for that repair. Of course I didn't have to use all of the parts in the kit because the water supply was already there from the valve that came up through the floor. After turning the water back on and plugging the fridge back in, my husband and I tested it by trying the water dispenser. We found that water was leaking from somewhere inside the fridge, but didn't know where. After UNPLUGGING it, and turning the water off again, I took the metal back off at the bottom. It was leaking from the bigger plastic tubing (5/16"). It was just hanging, not connected into the dual water valve. Figured it had just broken. So I thought I just needed 5/16" tubing. I went on the GE website and it was very hard to get answers to my problem because I couldn't find the plastic tubing that it looked like. I ended up ordering the plastic tubing that goes up that back of the fridge to the icemaker. They sent me two of those, not one for the freezer and the bigger clear one (5/16") that I thought I needed. Then, I found this website! This PartSelect website is great!! After reading about other consumer repairs, I knew how to disconnect the dual water valve and found out that the smaller plastic tubing that goes up the back of the fridge to the icemaker had been pinched where it connects to the dual water value, barley hanging on. Just quick disconnected it from the valve by pushing up on the outside where the tubing comes out while pulling on the tubing. It came out, and I had to use needle nose pliers to pull some of it out where it had broken off inside. Then, pushed the new tubing into the valve and ran it up the back of the fridge, unscrewed the plate that goes over the clamp that holds the tubing, loosened the clamp a little, pulled the old tubing out, pushed the new tubing in, (the clamp was still tight enough) put the metal plate back on and replaced the screws. Then I re-connected the dual water valve to the electric clips, connected the 5/16" tubing to the right side of the valve. (The black tubing that goes up the back of the fridge goes into the left side of the valve.) put it back into place and screwed it back against the body of the fridge where it goes, put the back on and plugged it back in. We tested it again, and water was leaking, but not from where I made my first repair. I reversed everything again, and discovered that where the 5/16" tubing goes into the dual water value, it seemed more loose than it should have been. That is where the water was leaking from! I ordered the dual water valve, the 5/16" plastic tubing and the water tube union. I replaced the dual water valve-very easy! MAKE SURE YOU UNPLUG THE FRIDGE, turn the water supply off, disconnect the small tubing from the dual water valve, disconnect the electric connections to the valve, and reverse the process. What I did was replace the 5/16" tubing the comes out of valve & goes up into the storage tank behind crisper drawer. Used union there. Put everything back together and it works!!

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