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PartSelect Number PS884734
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
Used nutdriver to remove screws holding cover over oven light socket, unclipped electrical connectors, removed socket by hand, then reversed the foregoing. Easy.
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just added new parts after clean up
The hardest part was taking out original light bulb because screws on shield where hard to unscrew after all this years . The old bulb vent out leaving neck in socket. It took narrow electrical pliers to get neck out .The generic appliance bulb did not fit and had aluminum neck ,not recommended for brass sockets in ovens.Putting new light bulb in was not the problem.
After figuring I'd have to buy a new oven, I figured out that it was the lower baking element. When I received the new part, I removed the two screws holding the element on. Gently pulled the element off the back oven wall and removed the wire connectors. Put the new element in place - rehooked the wire connectors and it works like new. The light bulb replacement was as simple as screwing in the new light bulb. Thanks, saved me alot of money.....
Very easy to replace. The hardest part was the removal of the power cable connector. Had to use a screwdriver to pry the connector from the unit;. Took less than 10 min. to complete the repair.Had ice cubes in less than 2 hrs.
1. Unscrewed glass cover on bulb2. Removed old bulb3. Screwed in new bulb4. Replaced glass cover5. Mixed drink & baked cupcakes
I'll tell you.......PartSelect said the items would take from 3-5 days.....I got them in 48 hrs. I turned the breaker to the oven off. I unscrewd two screws from the back of the oven and pulled the element out and took it off of two connectors. Repeated the same with the broiler element. Job done saved $200.00...Job was quoted at $259.00
Pulled back off of stove to access control panel. Four screws help panel in place. Moved each wire to the corresponding terminal.
Removed bake element by taking out the screws of the element plate at the back of the oven. Pulled out the bake element and disconnected the two electrical wires attached to the element by screws. Screwed on the new element and reattached the back plate. The light bulbs (upper and lower oven) were replaced by pulling up on the wire holding the light bulb protective glass enclosure in place, removing the enclosure and then unscrewing the light bulb. Then screwing in the new bulb and re-attaching the glass enclosure.
After doing some reading on the internet, someone had mentioned that the drain hole in the freezer might be clogged. Of course, I did not know where to look exactly. I heard the buzzing sound one day and opened the fridge. I placed my hand right under the area that was concealed and isolated roughly (by touch) where the noise was coming from. I started to pull off the cover where the water filter was and started unscrewing with a nutdriver and screwdriver about 5 to 6 screws until I loosened things enough to get the cover off partially. I felt a part and also found a diagram of the fridge. The part felt hot to the touch. After looking at the diagram, I realized that it was the adaptive defrost timer making the noise. I decided to order the part because it was worth it to try fixing and while everything was open, I figured I'd change all the light bulbs as well. Luckily, I have another fridge in my basement and moved all food to that fridge. I unplugged the troublesome fridge and let it defrost. I also removed all the shelves from the freezer and fridge so they could be cleaned. I did not take any pictures, so it took me a while to put them back when it was time. I also located the evaporator in the freezer section. I had to unscrew the back cover to get to it. I noticed that that area behind the cover was also iced up, so I found the source. Sure enough, the drain plug was clogged and water started to accumulate. I unscrewed the evaporator from the top and sheet metal pan from the bottom and removed the pan. I opened up the bottom rear of the fridge so I could located the drain hose and drip tray it fed into. I noticed the pan was totally dry. I removed the hose from the drain plug and stuck an awl from the bottom of the plug going into the freezer and finally dislodged whatever dust and grime was in there and the water started coming through. I then took a can of compressed air and shot it into the drain plug. I also shot compressed air onto the condenser and fan to clean things up a bit (make it a little easier for the condenser to release its heat). I reinstalled the drain hose and ran some white vinegar from the inside. It flowed nicely into the pan. I dried everything up. I also decided that this was the perfect time to clean the fridge and all of its components on the inside (it is a side by side - so both the freezer and fridge area). This took some time, especially disassembling the drawers. At the end, after replacing all bulbs except the 2 small ones by the control area, I removed the old adaptive defrost timer and it took me a good 15 minutes to line up the new one. The new one is bigger than the old one and also encased. I had a hard time getting the plug on since it was hard to see. I was putting this in while the control section was hanging down at a 35 degree slant. Room was limited. I managed to connect the plug and then had to position the ADT so it would fit in its spot perfectly. Only then was I able to put the screws that hold it there. It needed to sit perfectly in there, which it did. I changed the 2 bulbs and put everything back together. Of course, in the middle of all this, I had a video on your site explaining how to remove the control panel and install the ADT. Pretty funny stuff. Pretty much did it the same way. Getting the cover off is a little difficult because the back left corner gets caught even when you pull down on it. It took me a while to realize where the cover was getting stuck. Nevertheless, I finished the repair and the fridge seems to be working great for now. I am keeping my I on it. I haven't heard any buzzing noises and no ice has built up on the bottom of the freezer yet. In fact, this is the quitest my fridge had been for a long time. Hopefully, it was last a few more years. Knock on wood.
7 minutes to turn off the breaker - unscrew the old element, pull out the old element attach the new element and rescrew. 10 minutes to replace the broken bulb since the base was left without the glass bulb to turn.
The lens cover was easy to replace, but the bulb could not be extracted from the hole where the lens cover was (although it was indicated on the Internet that we could). We needed to get inside the dryer, but did not know how. I checked out a book from the library which told how to open the top dryer panel, but that way did not work. After a little more searching on the Internet, I was able to find a website that had FREE appliance repair manuals: http://www.appliancerepair.net/clothes-dryer-repair-5.html and that worked. It told us how to remove the FRONT panel. After removing the FRONT panel, not the TOP, I was able to replace the bulb easily. I was pleased to have been able to do this without calling a technician.
My handyman removed the old burnt our element by removing two screws and disconnected two wires and reconnected wire and screwed the unit into the oven wall. This repair was a breeze! Thanks for making my life easier!
Turned off the breaker at panel box.Removed racks and unscrewed element at lower part of oven.Used a screwdriver to remove element wiring (noticing that one part of the element was broken off).Used new screws to secure each side of the new element, making sure element was "right-side up".Secured element to back of stove. ( I also replaced oven light at this time.)Reset breaker and tested oven by turning on temperature control.EVERYTHING WORKED!
Incredibly easy - just make sure you have ordered the correct part. My GE oven is over 20 years old and I entered an incorrect model number into the order screen. A part that "looked" correct came up, I wisely called the customer service number where the rep pointed out my entry did not match so I carefully looked at the number again and discovered I left off a letter (plate was greased & tough to read). That then gave me the correct part number which arrived next business day. Old element easy to remove with right size nut driver taking care of the screws that were in for over 20 years. Replacing was very easy but remember the self taping screws WILL take some effort to start on the element, no sweat on the mounting plate which had slightly tilted slots which made re-attachment EASY!!
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