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PartSelect Number PS774514
When replacing these fuses the wire harness must be replaced as well. It is located in the control panel. The harness is included with this part now.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Simple task - remove the front door cover to expose the cover for the control panel which is then also removed. Be sure electricity is disconnected from the appliance, then simply remove the old control board (remove the quick-connect wire harness) and slide the replacement board back in. Reconnect wiring harness, replace cover and door panel, then turn-on electricy. NOTE - I suggest you shut off power at the breaker panel vs. disconnected the direct wiring at the appliance. The reason for this is because the new controller board could be damaged in the process of connecting the wires and any sparking that would take place when working with hot wiring.
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First I checked the power supply and noticed the breaker was not tripped. Confirmed the unit was getting power. I then downloaded a parts breakdown from the Kitchen Aid website and noticed there was a fuse mounted in the control section. Using my digital multimeter I confirmed there was no continuity through the fuse. I then ordered the part, installed it and washed a load of dishes:-)
I removed the 6 torx screws that hold the control panel on the top part of the door, from the inside, removed the large plastic cover from the control board, removed the 2 big wires that go to the thermal fuse...tested for continuity and foung the fuse faulty...ordered a new fuse kit, reversed the procedure and it works like new.
Checked main house circuit breaker to ensure not tripped - was OK. Removed dishwasher lower kick panel to access 120 main feed (make sure main circuit breaker is OFF!) to ensure had 120 volts to unit - OK. Removed upper control panel (6 screws) to access main control board and main fuse. Checked fuse for continuity - no continuity, blown fuse. Continue to inspect main "Control Circuit Board". Found burn marks from over heating on main circuit board at 4 pin connector (tan wire that goes to one of the two door switches). Replaced main circuit board and fuse. Ohm checked heating element to ensure within specs (10-30 ohms) - OK. Cleaned up burned connector by removing terminal CARFEFULLY and cleaned with wire brush. Checked continuity/ohm's of both door switches (should be close to 0 ohms) and cleaned terminals at both door switches to ensure good contact. Reassembled unit, restored power at main house breaker, loaded dishwasher and ran unit through normal cycle. All worked like new! TIP - ensure main water feed coming from spigot is minimum 120 degrees, per manufacturer, as this will aid in shorter cycle times and reduce energy consumption. PLEASE USE CAUTION WHEN PERFORMING THIS TASK AS 120 VOLTS IS DANGEROUS!
Replaced electronic control panel first which had an obvious defect (burned terminal). Still no power. Replaced fuse and works fine now. Took lots of reading to find out the dishwasher had a replacable fuse. Even the appliance store didn't know.
Removed leads from fuse and installed jumper wire (while the power was off, then turned back on) to determine that circuit board was still good. Ordered new fuse and installed using existing wire connections. Did not splice in new connectors that came with fuse. Wires were clean and good and did not want to cut and splice.
I had no lights on the console. Found the internal fuse blown, as I was looking around noticed the door latch also broken so I replaced that as well. Items were easy to identify from the bom and repairs completed in about 15-20 minutes. Dishes all clean now.
Very simple. We had to remove the screws holding the metal cover on the inside of the dishwasher to access the electrical panel. Then we disconnected the wires that were connected to the fuse kit, unclipped the kit from the panel, clipped the new one on, and replaced the wires. Then all we had to do was screw the metal cover back onto the inside of the door and it worked just fine.
First I shut off the breaker for the dishwasher. I had to remove the 6 screws that hold the top part of the dishwasher door to find the panel with the fuse. Then following the instructions that came with the new fuse I cut the wires from the old fuse to remove it. Next I installed the new fuse and attached the wires and then replaced the screws. Turned the breaker back on and everything worked great.
Took out the screws--found out what the problem was--ordered part (your people were helpfull--good customer people--received the part within the time I was told--installed according to the instructions--turned it on. . Working fine and guess what--I don't have to do the dishes anymore.
Checked the house circuit breaker, verified AC to the box under the dishwasher, removed the screws around the inside door cover, and removed the cover. Removed the outer circuit board cover. Used a multi-meter to verify AC to the door latch, and to verify the latch switch was working. Verified AC to the thermal fuse above the circuit board when the door latch was closed. Verified no AC on the other side of the thermal fuse. Removed the thermal fuse connections with pliers. Used thin flat blade screw driver to unsnap the thermal fuse assembly. Used multi-meter to verify no continuity through the fuse. Ordered the fuse assembly and replaced. Reconnected the thermal fuse connections. Manually closed door switch and saw lights on the display panel, and dishwasher started. Replaced all covers and works great.
When my dishwasher stopped working I went to the local appliance parts store with the entire button panel. I explained my situation to them, and the response was that I needed a new control panel -$68 and a week wait. So I ordered it. When it came in I noticed it was missing a button for the rinse only cycle. The parts guy said that maybe it was a problem with the parts vendor and ordered another one from their other vendor. In the mean time I installed the new control panel just to see if I would get any lights (no luck). A week later the new control panel came in - still no rinse only button. I got my money back and went home to see what I could find online. I ran across PartSelect - saw several comments describing my exact problem, and ordered a new fuse kit ($15). I put the original control panel back in, put in the new fuse (which took only 2 days to get to me!) and sure enough - problem solved.Thanks PartSelect you have a great site with lots of useful information!Steve in Colorado
first things first. troubleshoot.... unit wont run. no l.e.d.s at all. Opened front panel and first thing I see is a thermal cutout mounted outside of printed circuit board. After using a multimeter to check for continuity, used a set of alligator clips with a common lead, thus bypassing thermal cutout. Viola, she worked. Ordered part after finding site with google search. Part was delivered in two days.
1. Opened inside panel (about 8 screws)2. Checked wires to see if we had power, which led me to the fuse.3. All wires were hot, so I bypassed fuse straight to the motor, which worked.4. Took out the fuse, didn't really know for sure whether it was bad yet, googled the part number and it led me to PartSelect.com!5. Ordered part (it arrived in two days!) and replaced existing fuse and WE ARE WASHING DISHED AGAIN!!
From searching the partselect site, I was able to determine that the fuse was most likely the faulty part, and probing the voltage confirmed it. So I ordered the Fuse Kit.I was very pleased with the level of diagnostic information available on partselect.com. The kit instructions were clear. With power off, I removed the old fuse, clipped the existing wires, stripped them, and reattached to the new wire connector. Then I snapped the new fuse in place and put the cover panel back on. Everything works fine again and my wife was very pleased.
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