Drum Bearing Slide - White

Basically, I followed the same steps a prior person posted.
1.Removed the two screws inside the door, on the top part of the opening.
2.Lifted up and removed the top.
3.Removed two screws holding the front panel in place.
4.Held up the drum while removing the front panel. I carefully turned the panel so I could get at the drum bearing without pulling the wires connecting it to the front panel. The wires are not very long, so I had to be careful not to pull on them.
5.Carefully pried off the old drum bearing, using just my hands. It was fairly tight, and popped out just as I started to worry if I was putting too much pressure on it.
6.Checked to see how the old felt was installed, then I pulled out the old felt.
7.Inserted the new felt, being careful to insert one end into a slot the same way the original was installed.
8.Inserted the new slides into the new drum bearing. The gray slides went in at the eleven and one o'clock positions, the white slides went in at ten and two o'clock.
9.Removed a surplus plastic piece from the new drum bearing (where the light comes through).
10.Inserted the new drum bearing, putting the bottom tabs in first, then pivoting it into place. I squeezed it into place to make sure it was tight.
11.Lifted up the drum and put the front panel back on.
12.Screwed the front panel back on, using the two screws.
13.Carefully put the top back on.
14.Screwed in the two screws inside the front door to fasten down the top.
That was it! I started up the dryer and it worked fine. No more squeaking.
About the only thing odd about the repair is why PartSelect sells each slide separately (i.e., I had to order 2 white slides and 2 gray slides). I can't imagine replacing just one, so why not package them in pairs, or maybe even all four in one package.
At any rate, the repair was easy, and a lot cheaper than having someone come out to fix it.

(1) open dryer door (2) remove screws holding door on and put door aside. Probably doesn't have to be done but I think its easier and safer so you don't accidently bend the hinges. (3) remove 2 screws holding top onto front. of dryer located in recess that door sits in (3) pull up on top and remove (from slots by the control panel) (4) remove final 2 screws holding front onto frame of dryer. You can disconnect the connectors from the front panel back to the dryer to make the job easier or work with it without disconnecting. I'd take your time and clean any lint dust, etc. (5) the Drum Bearing removes fairly easy as it is just snapped into 2 slots. insert slids into slots.... make sure you order all 4. Mine were all beat!. (6) replace with new Drum Bearing. (7) I did the lower felt seal as well. Pay attention to how you took the old one off and replace the same way. Remember it stretches to fit into the slots. Put all back together. Remember to front panel has to sit correctly into bottom slots before you screw the top screws back in. All in all.... a simple project, and no more noise!!!!! Great to have websites like this. Easy ordering, quick shipping, great diagrams.

1. Removed top cap on lid by removing the 3 - phillips screws.
2. removed front digital display panel from PC board.
3. removed bolts with nut-driver on the top of the front panel, removed bottom screws with #2 square bit.
4. removed "snap-in" plastic top bearing ( paying attention to where wiring is routed within this frame.
5. cleaned all areas of plastic and felt debris, installed new bearing, felt, and glides.
6. Re-installed all wiring and panels.

*** make sure to order all of the glides, there should be a total of 4 for the top assembly.

First I unplugged the dryer and turned off the gas

Second I opened the door and unscrewed the two screws that go up into the top panel and hold it in place (you will need to get down and look under the top of the door jam to see the screws).

Third I lifted the front of the top enough to remove the two screws holding the front panel on (Use a magnetic screwdriver if you have one you do not want to lose the screws taking them out or putting them back in)

Fourth positioned a chair to lean front panel against so it would not fall over or strain the electrical wires that run to the switch in the door (slide the front panel off slowly supporting the drum with your hand so it doe not drop hard on the motor wires or burners)

Sixth determined the parts I needed and ordered parts from pars select and got them in two days

Seventh when new parts arrived I unclipped the old DRUM BEARING removed the felt gasket, put the felt in the new Drum bearing and clipped it in place

Eighth clipped in the 2 new Dryer Drum Slides and 2new SLIDE WH slides

Ninth Vacuumed out dryer and vent pipe completely

Tenth reassembled dryer being careful to make sure drum was properly aligned as I put the front panel in place and the belt was in the proper place on drum and all the screws were back in place.

Ninth turned gas back on and plugged in dryer

Ten turned on dryer to test squeak was gone

Hints as soon as you hear a squeak look into it and you will probably not have to replace the DRUM BEARING. But if any of the Slides are bad replace them all. Check your belt and felt gaskets to see if they are in good shape. If everything up front is in good shape and it is not the motor squeaking it could be the back drum bearing. Take your time keep your old dryer running for a few more years and save the $40 dollar service call. Do not forget to clean out all the old lint and dust out of your dryer and vent pipes not only will you reduce the risk of fire you will be allowing air to pass through the dryer more easily drying your clothes in shorter time.

Repair was easy, following the disassembly instructions from the video on your site. What I did not know is that it takes 2 pieces of plastic slides from each kind to replace (makes a total of 4). I was lucky in that one of the white ones was still okay and that I accidentally ordered a second one from the greenish kind, so I was set. This was also a great opportunity to clean out the dryer which must have been a bucket full of lint. So far no more complaints. Given that this problem seems to reappear once in a while I'll order a new set soon.

First I really had to hunt for the proper way to get my dryer drum accessible for the repair. With my model it was as simple as removing two screws to take off the top panel (located by opening the dryer door), and then removing two other screws inside the front panel at the top. The front will then be able to swing to the left side (the door switch wires are on this side for this model). Simply remove the drum bearing by gently pulling it off. My slides were in such poor shape for less than 4 years old!! One of them had completely disintegrated! These slides have a small whole on one end which attaches to a small nub at the edge of a slot while the other side just slid into a slot at the other end. No need to even take out the drum!!
The hardest part of the job was to get into the dryer!

First, let me say that my repairman said the bearing and slides would cost between $150-200, and the total repair would be pushing $400, so we should just get a new dryer. Well, the total cost for the parts was less than $50.

The installation was easy.
1. Remove the two bottom screws of the door hinges, loosen the two top screws, and remove the door.
2. Unscrew the two screws, under the upper lip of the door opening, that secure the front panel to the top panel.
3. Pull the front of the top panel up, and then pull the panel off.
4. Remove the bulb from the front panel.
5. Unscrew the two screws, from inside the dryer, that secure the front panel to the frame.
6. Pull the front panel away from the drum and frame. Had to lift the drum slightly to do this. The electrical connection wire was still attached to the front panel.
7. Slide off the old drum bearing from the inside of the front panel.
8. Insert 4 new slides onto the new bearing.
9. Slide the new bearing onto the rim of the opening in the front panel.
10. Reset the front panel back into the slots at the bottom front of the frame, with the bearing fitting into the drum. Again, had to lift the drum slightly to do this, and make sure the wire was not caught between the front panel and frame.
11. Re-secured the front panel to the frame with the two screws.
12. Replaced the bulb in the front panel.
13. Replaced the top, and re-secured it with the two screws.
13. Put the door back on.
Quiet dryer once again! And saved the $800, including installation, a new gas dryer would have cost us!

Pulled the front of the dyer off, snapped old bearing off, snapped new drum bearing in, affixed 2 new slides and 2 new other widgets (5 pieces total). Vacuumed/cleaned out various bits and pieces before i closed her up.

No squeaking.

Called a priest, but he died. Now i just do whatever the demon says, but i do it with quietly dried clothes.

I followed the instruction of the first posting for this category and it worked perfectly...thanks for the nice detail...

- Upon receipt from PartSelect, placed new slides in Drum Bearing (this does not come together or as a kit - must order 4 slides AND Bearing separately for this dryer model)
- Loosened Top panel screws (2) from inside door area
- Slid top of dryer off - PAY attention to HOW the top comes out (tabs at the back and slots on the sides) or replacing the top could prove frustrating)
- Loosened Front panel screws (2) and GENTLY leaned the panel forward to access Drum Bearing - no need to REMOVE the front panel but be aware of the switch wires when leaning and the weight of the door if you did not remove that
- Removed old Drum Bearing
- Vacuumend interior of dryer cabinet (especially area leading down to vent)
- Snapped new Drum Bearing into place
- Re-secured Front panel paying attention to drum position to make sure everything still rotated properly and freely
- Reset Top panel - align back tabs first, gently pull forward just a bit until Top slips down over side tabs, then slide back into place and re-secure

Worked like a charm - took about 20 minutes...

The weight of the front section of the drum in the dryer rides on 4 slim pieces of plastic. remove the screws that hold down the top of the dryer are in the front door at the top at each corner. remove the top, then remove 2 screws that hold down the front of the control panel to the cabinet at the base. remove the 2 screws at the of the front corners of the cabinet to separate the front door section from the rest of the dryer.Watch out for the wires the connect the door to the rest of the dryer. if you replace the bearing at the back of the dryer you need to take two screws out at the base of the cabinet one from each corner to let the sides of the cabinet to spread out and let the drum pass though the front of the dryer cabinet. the belt has to come off the motor by lifting it up an sticking your hand in under the drum and working it off the end of the motor. replaced the parts ad the dryer works like new.

I removed the two screws that hold the front panel to the top panel. I removed two more screws that hold the front panel to the side panels. I separated the front panel from the side panels and removed the drum.

I could see on the front panel the drum slides were badly worn. One was gone.

The new parts installed easily using no tools at all. Everything snaps in place. The new foam gaskets press and stick to seal the duct work. The felt strip pressed into place.

I replace all the panels in reverse order and plug it in. It operates fine, but the motor is making the noise. I will look into replacing the motor next.

Many have already described the repair, and it was exactly as they have described. Remove the two screws inside the top of the opening which hold down the top of the dryer. Pull off the top, and look inside to remove the two small screws that attach the front of the dryer. As the front separates, the front comes out of the drum and the drum bearing will come into view. Pop out the drum bearing ~ there are no screws ~ it simply snaps in place. (I suggest removing the lightbulb first, or you'll be buying one of those also. )

Replace the new drum bearing and snap it into place. Then replace the four drum slides. Replacing the drum slides is a quick, one minute task. Mine were completely worn away ~ no wonder it was squealing so badly. Then reverse the process to put it all back together. Total job was maybe 15 minutes long. Easy as could be and saved a ton of money, I'm sure. Sounds like new now!

Piece of advice that I could not find anywhere prior to ordering ~ you need FOUR drum slides to replace them all. Not knowing, I originally only bought two, so I had to order two more and add them later. Also, I probably could have gotten away without replacing the drum bearing ~ the slides were all that was really worn.

Thanks for the quick turnaround on the orders and the advice on line. Easy, easy, easy!

The repair was done as follows:

1. Removed the door
2. Removed the two screws securing the top panel then removed the panel.
3. Removed the two screws securing the front panel then removed the panel.
4. Removed the screws securing the left side panel then removed side panel and the two leveling feet.
5. Tipped dryer over on its back (you will want to protect your floor, the four screws that attach the heater unit protrude through the back).
6. Disengaged the belt tensioner and removed the belt and the drum.
7. Removed the three Torx screws securing the drum bearing to the drum and discarded old bearing.
8. Removed the four screws securing the bearing retainer to the heater unit.
9. Removed the four screws securing the heater unit and two sensor wires.
10. Lifted heater unit just high enough to remove bearing retainer. Discarded bearing retainer.

The new drum bearing kit is supplied with self tapping screws. I installed the screws into the bearing parts to tap the holes and then removed them prior to assembly.

11. Installed new bearing retainer to back of heater unit using the supplied screws. Install the four screws by hand, finger tight.
12. Re-attached heater unit and tighten screws.
13. Re-attached sensor wires.
14. Tightened the four bearing retainer screws.
15. Attached new drum bearing to drum using the three supplied Torx screws. I used tape to hold everything together while installing the screws.
Tightened the Torxscrews.

Next I used a vacuum to remove all the lint from inside the dryer. I also used a small plastic putty knife to remove the caked on lint on the impeller blades.

16. Inserted drum bearing into bearing retainer.
17. Installed drum belt and belt tensioner.
18. Installed left side panel and feet.
19. Replaced the two grey and two white slide bearings on the front panel. They just slip onto a small post and slide into a slot.
20. Installed front panel. (Rotate drum to help with installation)
21. Installed top panel and door

PROBLEM SOLVED!

I ordered parts based off other peoples findings. I took the top and front off the Dryer. I found the drum bearing(really only a plastic bracket. The slide were completely worn and the drum was wearing into the plastic drum bearing. I popped the old drum bearing out and put the new on in. There are actually 2 sets of slides (4 total). I only bought 2. I reused two of the existing slides. I put the unit back together and it was a lot quieter. I need to order more of the slides. They are only a couple dollars a piece and take most of the beating. I should've but didn't get the pasking or gasket. it was broken. I think it'll be fine though.

First I had to remove the top by taking out the two screws inside the door. Then I removed the front by taking out the two screws holding it from the inside. I needed to remove the drum and to the the belt off, I removed the left side. It has several screws down the back, two on the bottom and two in the front. I removed the belt and drum. I took out the old sleeve bearing. Part of it was broken off into the hole it goes into. I then had to remove the plate that holds the heating element. Once that was done, I put the new bearing on and replaced the drum slides on the from section. Then I reversed the process to reassemble. Not too bad.