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PartSelect Number PS470317
Front upper felt glide pad with 3 nylon glides - includes adhesive.
This part works with the following brands: Frigidaire, Gibson, Kelvinator, Kenmore, Tappan & White-Westinghouse.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
This part helps to keep the dryer running as quietly as possible.
The top popped off the dryer easily from the front top and it folds back. Screws on the inside top of the front panel came off easily. Small yellow plastic guide, again no problem. Remove 2 wires off the doors toggle safety switch.Front panel comes out and up. The Drum will slide out of the front panel resting on the exhaust blower.The Drum glide and the seal basket are on the front panel. They pull right off, clean the surface as well as you can, scraping device was used for old glue. Frigidaire high temp glue that was supplied, easily applied to the whole area that would receive the felt. Center the felt and begin adhering it to the glued area. Note, the "Seal Basket Lower" and "Drum Glide" have to be placed in a specific direction.While you have the unit apart take this time to clean out lint and such. Shop vac worked very well here.Also, Lubing the socket where the drum mounts is a good idea for it will eventually squeak, loudly! This involves removing the back silver grate and releasing the tension wheel near the back of the motor. Grab the drum and lift. Easily pops out and out the front. Axel grease or a Lithium grease can be used in the socket. Not to much now!Now you have access to heating element and motor. Vaccuum unit, lube tension wheel and reassemble. This was an easy job and helped me understand how this unit works and added to the longevity.
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After reading other posts on this page I learned that these symptoms are very common for older dryers when the felt bearings ("seals") are worn out. I replaced the top and bottom felt strips (the top one has plastic wear pads which had completely worn away on my machine). I also took the time to replace the rear plastic bearing and the belt (pretty cheap parts). In addition, after opening up the dryer I found that one of the wire pigtails connectors was black and melted from arcing (bad connection). I replaced the bad connectors with crip-on connectors from Radioshack ($2). Incidentally, I bought lifetime supply of high temp wheel bearing grease: one tub for $7... and used about a teaspoon, but hey, that's still cheap. The hardest part was cleaning off the old felt adhesive, I used nail polish remover to soften the old glue and scrapped of 80% with a screw driver... good enough! I held the new felt on with duct tape until the glue dried. I suggest watching the installation video for the rear bearing replacement I found on this website. It showed me where the screws are and the trick for lifting up the back of the tub using the belt to disengage the rear bearing. It was a snap.
I wish I had searched the problem down several years earlier...Finally got sick of stained clothes when a new set of cotton sheets got stained. My wife was on the verge of ordering me to get a new dryer. After spending 15 minutes googling (why didn't I do this years before..!?!) I found the answer. Old, worn drum glide!As with other reader stories, since I gotta take the thing apart to replace the drum glide, may as well replace the belt and lower glide.Read the other stories for detailed repair instructions. It's not hard, but it does take an extra pair of hands and some patience.Take the opportunity to clean the inside of the dryer (you have a lot of lint in there, I expect) to prevent fire. Also clean your duct vents. Better safe than sorry!
I look up on the internet on how to disassemble dryer to get to the parts needed. Took off top, found screws to take off front. Removed existing drum riding seal and lower seal. Used laquer thinner to remove excess glue. Cleaned throughly with soap and water. Reapplied new seals. At the same time removed drum and parts in the back of the dryer for ball bearing. great, expeditious help from your store. Thank you
Once the seals have worn out, clothes started to get hung up. This would essentially ruin the clothes that became stuck. To replace is pretty straight forward and the hardest part is removing the glue and residue from the previous seals. In Summary:1. Unplug the dryer2. Use the putty knife to open the top of the dryer, there are two spring clips to depress by placing the putty knife in the gap between the top of the dryer and the front panel. About four inches from either side...3. Remove the two screws that go from the side panels into the front, one screw on either side of the drum about 8 inches from the top, phillips head screws..4. The face will come off and the drum will drop a bit, no big deal.5. Disconnect the electrical connection in the top of the dryer. There is a harness connector at the top right of the dryer and one tie wrap holding it loosely .6. Remove the old seals... Not the general location of the top seal and mark the ends with a sharpy on the lip of the dryer face... This way you know where to reinstall the new seal. You have to glue it back on and won't get too many chances to glue it down.7. Let the work begin. Remove the old glue and residual seal material from the lip. I used a sander in some places, a razor blade in a holder in some, and a wire brush in a drill in others. The wire brush did the best job but wouldn't reach everywhere.8. After you've cleaned the lip off. Begin by putting some glue, liberally, around the location for the top seal with the plastic pieces on it. I used some spring clamps to hold it in place after gluing. You'll be turning the face over to put the bottom seal on and need it to be in place firmly. 9. Put some more glue on the lip and being placing the lower seal. Use a spring clamp every 12-18 inches to hold the seal and make good contact. I pulled my seal tight as I put it in place. Not too tight to compress but tight enough that I had 4 inches to cut off after I made it all the way around.10. Leave the clamps on the seal for 10 - 15 minutes. Longer if you can. Once you replace the front of the dryer, all those fumes are in the dryer and any clothes that you dry right away will smell like that if you don't let the glue cure. I didn't have a lot of time so I waited 15 minutes and replaced the dryer front, then I ran the dryer on low heat for one complete cycle to help the glue setup.11. Replacing the front is just reverse operation of removal. Be sure to pay attention to the tabs at the bottom of the front dryer panel. They are attached to the lower dryer panel and you need to lower the front panel over them so they'll hold it tightly. 12. You'll need to slightly lift the dryer drum to get it to line up with the new seals on the front panel. It may be a slightly tighter fit with the new seals, you'll know when you have it in correctly. Press the front panel back inward and replace the two screws you removed earlier. Reconnect the wiring harness and replace the tie wrap you cut. Put it back to similar tightness that it was when you cut it out earlier. 13. Lower the top panel and snap it back down into the front panel.14. Plug it back in and test it.There are steps I've overlooked I'm sure... Such as thoroughly cleaning the lint trap in the front panel while you have it removed... and vacuuming out the dryer itself with the front off. Not to mention examining the other wear items on the dryer such as the belt and roller assembly. Or the rear bearing and carrier. Did I mention Cleaning out the dryer? All that lint in the duct work hinders your dryers ability to operate effectively.Best of luck.
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