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PartSelect Number PS460194
The front lower drum seal is used in the assembly of dryers. This seal helps keep your appliance running quietly. It allows the drum to smoothly rotate on the front panel. If you notice brown marks on your clothing, if the dry cycle is taking long, or if there are unusually loud noises, the seal might be worn down. If that is the case, you will need to replace the seal. This replacement part is made out of felt. The high temperature adhesive required to install this seal is sold separately. Before you begin any repair work, make sure the appliance has been unplugged.
This part works with the following brands: Frigidaire, Gibson, Kelvinator, Kenmore, Tappan & White-Westinghouse.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
The upper drum glide is attached to the front panel of your dryer, you can locate it by removing the top portion of your dryer. The drum glide allows the drum to rotate with ease and little sound. The front upper felt glide pad with three nylon glides also includes adhesive, essential for mounting accurately. For this project you will need a putty knife, Phillips screwdriver, and a wire brush. This repair is meant to fix issues such as an abnormal amount of noise or the dryer not tumbling as it should. Consider replacing your belt at the same time if you have a dryer more than 5 years old, as it is likely worn.
This high temperature adhesive is used for installing felt and rubber seals on dryers. The tube contains 1 ounce of product. This adhesive is made to withstand extremely hot temperatures. Before applying the adhesive, ensure that the area is completely clean from any debris and is dry. You may wish to use small clamps to hold the material in place while it dries. If the felt has come loose or broken apart, this may cause your dryer to make loud noise, indicating that new felt or rubber needs to be glued into place. Use gloves to apply glue.
First I removed the top, custom on mine, as it was originally stacked. Then two screws inside near the top come out, and the front was pulled out at the top and lifted off the clips at the base. Best access to the belt tensioner is to remove the air intake panel on the back. With the belt off the tensioner and motor pulley, the drum can be lifted up and out through the front after removing three screws from the inside that hold the drum to the bearing assembly. The original screws are #2 square/phillips combo, better to reuse than the new phillips only ones if a square drive bit is used. Then the bearing assembly comes off by removing two screws from the back. For reassembly, there is a steel ball that goes in under the plate in the back. It sits in a hole in the plastic shell of the bearing assembly to help align it. I stuck it in place with grease from the bearing kit, and used my knee to hold the plate over it while holding the bearing assembly with one hand and starting the screws with the other. The basket seal and drum glide felt were peeled off. Repeated soaking with a citrus based goo remover, scraping with a putty knife, and a little scrubbing with an abrasive plastic pad got the old glue off. A rinse and quick wipe with acetone prepared the surface for the new adhesive. It only needed a minute to get tacky, before the new seal and glide were stuck on.
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Pry top up, unfasten front side screws and pull front side away. Scrape off old felt liners and old glue from the front side drum rails. This was the hardest part of the job. I used a Citrus paint remover to help soften the old glue. Clean metal up with spay soap and water. Re-glue new liner in place. Re-assemble dryer.
Removed two screws from back of dryer, and then I used a screw driver to release clips in fron and removed top. Removed two screws from front and disconnected wiring harness. Removed old drum glide and basket seal, used a chisel to scrape sleal off. Installed new glide and seal and put it back together. I wish I would have replaced belt, bearing, and Idler wheel right away.
I used a putty knife to release the clips that hold the top in place. I then removed the screws that hold the front panel on. I pulled off the old drum glide and lower seal and scraped off the reside with a chisel. Acetone removed all the old adhesive very quickly. I applied the glue to both gaskets and applied to dryer. I used clothes pins to hold everything in place and waited overnight just to make sure everything was dry. I reassembled everything and its been working well ever since.
Reading these hints really helped me to find the right parts and do the replacement. I pulled the dryer out to allow room for the top to flip up and unplugged the power cord. I used the putty knife at the front to pop back the latches under the lid and used the chisel to prop the first latch while I poped the second latch. After raising the lid, I used the chisel to pry off the connectors from the door switch. I used a flashlight and phillips screwdriver to remove the 2 screws inside the front panel. The remaining latches popped free when I pulled the panel straight back; I lifted the panel to remove it from the lower tabs. I forgot to notice the orientation of the seals before removing (doh). I used the chisel to scrape most of the old seals off and an acetone cleaner to disolve the glue. This took about 30 minutes, and the solvent was cleaned and dried off before I glued the new seals on. I used clothes pins at each end of the seals to keep them from slipping off while the glue dried. When I replaced the front panel, the exhaust seal wanted to push up, so I leaned the panel out when inserting into the lower tabs. I replaced the phillips screws and plugged in the door switch and power cord.
I popped the dryer top off by lifting up on the front edge, then removed two screws that held the from pannel on, then pulled out on the top of the front pannel, and lifted the front pannel off the machine. the toughest part was scrapping the old felt glue residue off the rim. I used a single edged razor blade tool, and a 3/4 inch chissel. After that it's just applying the glue that came with the top slide, sticking on the felt, and clamping it for a few minutes. Reassemble and done. I will say that the instructions on the felt say that the painted surface on the dryer drum should be intact, and the paint on mine was worn off, and a bit rusted. I initially thought that the dryer was burning the tip of cloths, but I think the marks were rust marks. My hope is that the new felt will stop the cloths from getting into the drum slide: time will tell.
I took off the front of the dryer where the felt liner was located. Took off the old glide and scraped off the old glue with the razor blade. Took the tube of glue from the package and put glue where the old was and pressed the new felt on the dryer front. I then put it together and waited till morning to do a load of clothes. It works fine.
unpluged the dryer. Used butter knife to open the top. Used screw driver to take the front off. Two screws one in each corner. removed all wiring from the front. Moved front into better light. Used sharp knife to remove old felt and guide material. Cleaned the door well. Used glue provided in the repair kit. Placed felt and guide on door. Allowed to dry. reversed take off and ran dryer. Worked like a new one.
Lifted off the top of the dryer, unscrewed the front two screws and then removed the old Drum Glide and lower Seal Basket. Used some goo gone to remove all felt and glue. I first positioned the bottom seal in place and ensured it was in place and then glued the Drum Glide in place.It was much easier than I thought and not at all intimidating. Clips were a breeze to put in.
Dismantled top and and front of dryer. This made it much easier to move to the garage by myself. Vacummed out the dryer and cleaned with household cleaners. Removed old felt (top and bottom) Used Goof Off and a paint scrapper (razor knife) to remove the old glue. Used supplied glue and reinstalled. Piece of cake and good as new. One thing I would recommend over the other suggestions is the use of Goof Off or similar product. It makes the job much easier.
Open top of dryer using flat head screw driver. Remover wires off of front door safety switch. Remover 2 bolts holding on front panel . Then i removed bottom access dooor on the back side of the drier. Took belt off of drum. Then i removed drum by lifting up on the back of drum and pulling it out the front. I replaced drum support bearing. With the front panel off. i replaced the seal basket lower, and drum glide top. My drier was almost 10 years old. thats why i replaced the belt and drum support bearing. The drum support bearing was in bad shape. Now my drier is quite and doesnt mark up clothes with rusty marks.
This job is easier than you think and is basically the same procedure for most dryers. This dryer is actually made by Frigidaire. Wife priced a new dryer at Lowe's and the salesman actually told her if she has someone to do the work for free (which was me), then he would fix the old dryer and not buy a new one. This was the salesman at Lowe's saying this. Move dryer to an open area that has plenty of workroom. Remove small back panel (2 screws) and reach in and remove belt from pulley. Use a flat screwdriver or butterknife to push tabs in on both upper front corners of the dryer. Top will pop up and then lift up and gently pivot it backward where it is out of the way. Remove two top inside screws and wires from run button on front panel and the front panel will just fold down to the floor. Pull the drum upwards to pull the rear bearing out of the holder and the drum will come out through the front, not the top of the dryer. It will be a tight fit, but is not hard to remove. Before doing anything else, thoroughly clean everything you can put your hands on, including the blades of the blower wheel. I tested the thermostat switches and they were all okay, but the heating element was actually fried. You could see where it had burned. Unplug the wires from the element and thermostat and remove heating pan from the back and put in new heating element/pan the same way and attach wires. Remove the top and bottom felt gasket from the front panel and scrape as much felt off with a flat blade screwdriver as you can. Follow directions on tube of glue and then glue new felt gaskets on in the same spot as the old ones were. The glue needs to sit for a minute or two to get tacky and then the felt gaskets will hold. I pressed hard all around for a couple of minutes to make sure it was glued down. Put some grease, standard lithium grease will work fine, on the back ball bearing and holder, and slide drum in and make sure the back ball bearing is seated in holder. Slide new belt on drum and then lift front panel back off the floor and onto front of drum. Re-attach two front screws and the two wires for the run button inside the loading door. Go to the back panel and put some grease on the belt pulley shaft and re-attach belt. Close back panel. Go back to the top and rotate drum by hand to verify that it turns freely and there is nothing binding it. Swing top of dryer down and snap it shut on both top corners and you're done. I ran it empty for about 20mins to make sure the glue dried sufficiently and it was good to go. The parts for this at Sears were almost double the price that PartsSelect had them for. Thanks again to PartsSelect. I am recommending you to all of my friends who do their own repairs!
1. I removed the top of the dryer. It is hinged at the back and has two spring-loaded clips holding it under the front (as indicated in a previous repair story). I had to pry the top up with force as the clips did not release easily. After seeing how the clips held the top panel, I found if I used a flat bladed putty knife from the side and pushed in on the back of the clips, pushing forward, they would release very easily.2. unclipped the two electrical leads to the door mechanism.3. unscrewed the two screws on either side that held the front panel on and removed front panel.4. pulled away old felt seals and then used solvent to remove adhesive (this takes the most time). I used acetone but maybe Goo-gone is safer choice.5. applied adhesive all around surface as evenly and quickly as I could (used disposable latex glove to spread), not touching it once it started to dry. Then applied top felt-glide first pushing it firmly against front lip. 6. Bottom felt strip has a square edge on one side and beveled edge on the other. I assumed beveled edge allows it to slip in more closely under the lip of door and so put it on that way (instructions do not indicate which way so I could be wrong). Do not stretch felt while applying and it will meet flush with top glider felt ends.6. I let dry for 15 minutes before putting front panel back on, carefully lifting drum so it would slip on without disturbing felt.7. Replaced front panel screws, electrical clips and top panel. Waited an hour before using dryer.
1st, I checked to see if there was anything stopping the drum from turning, that would cause the motor to seize and burn. When that was not the issue, it was evident that the motor was burned out and needed replacement.2nd, I checked the partselect web site for the parts that would be required to replace the motor, belt, and felt drum guides since I was also getting brown rust stains on the clothes.3rd, after recognizing that all the parts were in stock and with helpful instructions, I proceeded to take the dryer apart.4th, unplugged the dryer, removed the cover by removing the 2 back fasteners with a phillips head screwdriver and popped the front of the top off. Remember to slide the grounding wire from the top to the base, found in the back of the top.5th, I removed the front panel and disconnected the wiring harness. Make sure to mark the connectors so you place it back together the right direction. I placed the front panel aside and also realized the felt strips were brown and the silicon guides were broken, meaning I needed to replace them.6th, I removed the small back panel near the floor and removed the belt from the idler pulleys and the motor drive shaft.7th, lifted the drum out of the dryer cabinet by lightly lifting up on the back of the drum to pop the bearing out of the casing on the back of the cabinet. I checked the belt and realized it was cracked and needed replacement. I also noted that the bearing was worn, dirty and needed replacement.8th, I then popped the spring off the back of the motor bearing, removed the fan housing by removing the 2 screws fastened to the bottom of the cabinet and disconnected the wiring hariness from the motor and the fan. Again, mark the connectors so you know which is up or front when you replace it.9th, I removed the nut from the fan, recognized the "remove arrow" and used a socket wrench to remove the fan from the motor shaft by turning counter clockwise. there is also a bushing between the fan housing and the motor, and once you get the housing out, you press in the snaps on the side and slide the piece out to release the motor.10th, I then ordered the parts and cleaned the entire inside of the cabinet, the idler pully's, the exhaust vent, etc. so it was as good as new!11th, I installed the motor in the fan housing and placed it back in its mount, connected the electric and the front panel and plugged in the cord and turned on the power to make sure the motor worked! Voila!12th, unplugged the electrical and then proceeded to re-install the fan housing, the drum bearing, pulled off the felt guides, used acetone to remove the adhesive and then added the new, placed the belt on the drum and lifted it back into the cabinet, fed the belt through the pulleys via the back door, connected the power and watched it run!13th, put the front panel and top back on, connected the vent to the outside and it was all done.
Had to remove front panel of the dryer. Four screws is all that held it on. Very simple to remove old part and glue on the new part. Longest part was to let the glue dry which i probely didnt have to.
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