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PartSelect Number PS459829
This kit includes one bearing, one ball shaft, one ball bearing, one ball bearing retainer, a small tube of high temperature lubricant and installation screws.
This part works with the following brands: Frigidaire, Gibson, Kelvinator, Kenmore, Tappan & White-Westinghouse.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
First, I watched the how-to video and it gave very good instructions and a couple very good tips. I disassembled the dryer and took a little extra time cleaning all the dust that had accumulated. I then replaced the bearing and belt with no problems. This site and the video made it very easy to do and I will defenantly use it again.
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To tell the truth I got involved with other business and my wife did the repair. The tub did not come forward as described in the video. She had to use some force as the tub support ball had worn into the bearing. All said the job was simple and much thanks to the Tech video. Thanks.
Excellent!!! The parts fit perfectly, but most of all was the video that went through the repair step-by-step.A local repairman quoted $198 for parts and another $150 for labor. Got the parts here for less that $26!!!!The only issue (very minor) was the video called for a phillips head screwdriver to remove the front panel, and our dryer needed a squarehead driver. (If I was younger, I would have been able to see the problem).But, I highly recommend Partselect!!!!
I followed others instructions on this site to disassemble but felt confident since 2-3 years prior I had replaced the felt top/bottom guides around the drum and the drum belt. The video on this page is also helpful1) Pop the top with a putty knife2) Unscrew two screws that hold the front onto the dryer frame3) Lift front from two clips at bottom of dryer4) Release tension from belt (unscrew/remove rear access plate)4) Lift drum up and forward out of dryer5) Unscrew drum bearing 3x screws from inside of drum5) Remove the drum bearing holder6) Pre-thread the rear drum bearing!!! Very important. Thread by screwing a supplied screw slowly through the pre-drilled holes.7) Attach drum bearing8) Attach new rear holder/cup & ball bearing (ball bearing goes on outside of plastic cup)9) Use lots of supplied grease, espeiclly helpful that it acts as a temporary glue holding the ball bearing in place 10) Reverse steps to assembleI'm glad I bought the entire rear bearing kit as I found the bearing holder had completely worn through and partially melted the metal cup. The ball bearing was missing - gone!Also found that the power cord had partially melted, so I replaced that from the hardware store. Scary.
I followed the on line video which was a help. I already had the dryer apart before looking for the parts, since I did not know the problem before disassemby. The replacement bearing kit has one fault. The new screws are only Phillips head, the original ones were a combo Square Drive/Phillips. Fortunately I had saved the original hardware. The replacement Phillips head screws are IMPOSSIBLE to use to cut the threads in the new bearing plate. I had to use the old ones with a square drive bit and it was still difficult. Perhaps the holes in the plate need to be a few thousandths larger in diameter to make this easier. After cutting the threads the new screws worked OK, but still difficult to install them while reaching in the drum. Square drive or even hex head would definitely be better.
Took off front of dryer lifted up top removed drum. Replaced bearing and added grease. Slid new belt over drum lifted back of drum slipped into bearing housing.took little cover off back right corner put belt around pulleys. Reinslalled front panel. Tested machine working fine.
Go with the usual disassembly process (front clips, two Phillips screws, wiring, etc.) The only thing I would add to the process is that when you replace the bearing on the back of the drum, start the three screws into the holes on the disc BEFORE you try to install it throught the back of the drum. You are making your own threads, so run the screws in and out a few times, then place it on the back of the drum and insert the screws. Hope this helps...
i took apart the dryer and then took out the drum from the inside and then put the new bearing in and put everything back in
I disassembled the dryer as described in many of the other repair stories. One tip that I would like to share is to test the motor prior to assembly. I did this by removing the idler pulley and getting the drive belt clear of the motor pulley. Unfortunately I had already disassembled the top and front of the dryer so I had to jumper the door switch to test the motor. If you do it in this manner be very careful to ensure no wiring is shorted or going straight to ground. I found that my motor was shot and replaced it at the same time as doing the other repairs. I used a small magnet to hold the grounding ball in place while replacing the drum bearing, this worked very well and I was able to quickly assemble the parts without an "extra set of hands."
First, used a putty knife to open the top of the dryer. Second, unscrewed the front panel and removed it by pulling up and out. The drum drops down slightly after doing this. Third, open the back grating and disconnect the belt from the motor and idle pulley. Fourth, Pull the drum (with belt) out through the front opening. Jerk up HARD on the back of the drum to disconnect it from the bearing seat. Fifth, replace bearing parts and seat according to diagram. I found it very difficult to unscrew the bearing axle from the drum. Had to hold down the drum and press hard to get screws to turn without stripping. Finally, put back together in reverse, don't forget to put A LOT of grease in your new bearing seat before reconnecting.
We had the rear drum bearing replaced about three years ago. The company that serviced it was quick to take our money for the diagnosis but took over a month (and a threat to call the better business bureau) to actually make the repair. This time I decided to do it my self as I had successfully replaced the the drum drive belt two years ago. The dissassembly was challenging but the repair it's self very easy. I opted to use nuts and bolts to attach the bearing assembly rather than the supplied screws as they did not want to tighten. Reassmbly was a bit of a challenge regarding the drum drive belt but I had the entire repair done in less than an hour.
Removed top panel - disconnected harness from front panel- removed front panel- removed access door to belt tensioner on back panel - took belt off tensioner- removed drum removed upper felt with worn glide pads from front panel - removed most of old glue from panel (small file) and glued on new felt strip with glide pads - let sit to cure removed three phillips screws holding rear brg to the drum and removed brg - removed two phillips screws from rear panel holding plastic bracket, supporting bracket and back clip to the rear panel and replaced with new (use a drop of grease to hold the little ball brg in place during installation, make sure you don't loose it) install new brg to the drum (since they are self cutting screw difficult to install throught he drum, I "pre-cut" one of the threads then installed the rear brg to the drum, screw driver was of ratched type with a long extension - filled the plastic bracket with the grease - installed drum and front panel - tensioned the belt - installed top panel and access rear panel - done - I used the opprtunity to vaccum the interior of the dryer, lot of lint ----------------------------------------------------------------- there is a plastic guide on top of the heating elements which is burnt and should have been replaced but I could not find it in a catalogue. Anybody any idea? Also instructions for glide say to check the paint on the drum, what if it is damaged or gone?
I have a frigidaire dryer about 5 years old.I first removed the top cover being careful to watch how the wires to the controls are connected. It is best to snap photos with your digital camera so you can remember how to reconnect the wires. Pulling up on the drum, I lifted it out of the rear sleeve. Once out, you could easily see why it squealed. The metal bearing had groves on it where is made contact with the holder. The difficult part of this was getting the 3 screws that hold the bearing to the drum off. The phillips screw head was easily marred if you don't have the proper screw driver bit. I think a better screw head would make the job easier. After removal, the replacement was a snap. When everything was back together, the dryer sounded like new. The job took me about 2 hrs due to the hard part of removing the screws.
First I removed the top, custom on mine, as it was originally stacked. Then two screws inside near the top come out, and the front was pulled out at the top and lifted off the clips at the base. Best access to the belt tensioner is to remove the air intake panel on the back. With the belt off the tensioner and motor pulley, the drum can be lifted up and out through the front after removing three screws from the inside that hold the drum to the bearing assembly. The original screws are #2 square/phillips combo, better to reuse than the new phillips only ones if a square drive bit is used. Then the bearing assembly comes off by removing two screws from the back. For reassembly, there is a steel ball that goes in under the plate in the back. It sits in a hole in the plastic shell of the bearing assembly to help align it. I stuck it in place with grease from the bearing kit, and used my knee to hold the plate over it while holding the bearing assembly with one hand and starting the screws with the other. The basket seal and drum glide felt were peeled off. Repeated soaking with a citrus based goo remover, scraping with a putty knife, and a little scrubbing with an abrasive plastic pad got the old glue off. A rinse and quick wipe with acetone prepared the surface for the new adhesive. It only needed a minute to get tacky, before the new seal and glide were stuck on.
opened top .removed drum then replaced bearing kit.added a new belt .only made sense to do so.
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