Rear Drum Bearing Kit

Remove rear control panel cover and remove drum belt from pulleys. remove top cover by pushing in on the 2 hold down fasteners on the front with flat head srewdriver. remove front panel by removing the 2 screws and then pop it out by lifting up. disconnect the wires at the quick connect plugs and set the front aside. lift the drum up to pop it out of the bearing housing and move forward slightly to give youself good access to the wires for the heating element and disconnect the 2 wires. remove drum the reset of the way out and do your work. Replacing the heating pan and drum bearing is pretty obvious what to do. (just a few screws). remove thermal cutoff switch from old pan and install on new pan. reinstall in reverse. no need to label wires because it doesn't matter where the wires go an a switch (justs makes and breaks a circuit) and the heater doesn't matter as long as both wires are hooked up to complete the circuit. You can't mess up the quick connectors on the door. Only my heater failed but I also replaced the drum bearing as long as I had it all apart (only another ~$20). Take the time to clean out the dust from inside the dryer, it will help the blower motor run cleaner and cooler and last longer. I bought a belt also to have on hand for replacement. I didn't replace it since my old one was good and it is real quick to replace at a later time.

popped the top off dryer, removed the tub . took the screws out of the tub bearing, and put the new one on. replaced the rear bearing holder. filled with greese provided.replaced the heating element, and put the tub back in with the belt around the tub. replaced the lint screen. put the belt around the pulley and replaced the cover. popped the top down.good as new

Popped the topped using a putty knife to free two clips in front. Remove two screws now accessible on the front inside panel. Remove two wires to door switch. Remove rear access door, two screws. Remove belt from tensioner in rear and remember or take picture of how it goes. Lift barrel slightly and pivot front panel out of the way. Lift barrel free from ball socket in rear. Lift out from front panel area. R & R kit and put back in reverse order.

I followed the instructions on previous posts. The only problem I had was trying to remount the drum to the bearing unit which sits in the back of the driver. I just couldn't get the three holes lined up for the screws until I finally laid the dryer on its back, and then presto! - it went together in seconds.

This project probably took me longer than most people because I'm always looking things over and a little cautious in my work. I never realized how simple a dryer system is until I had dismantled this one. I spent $38 to fix my dryer rather than buy a new one. $10 of that was for the belt which I changed only because I was in there. Parts from partselect.com arrived 48 hours after ordering, and I used their basic shipping.

Found instructions, correct except for 2 screws at the bottom of the kickplate, which turned out to be 2 philips head screws at top holding control panel to case. Would advise using gloves when holding drum, because front and rear lips are very sharp. This is the second time drum guide and lower basket seal where replaced. First time was in 2006. Saved a bunch of money by doing repair myself. If I had to pay for service call and parts replacement I probability considered replacing unit rather than repair.

After pulling out and unplugging my machine I followed the procedure already worked out by others. I bought and replaced all the parts that were listed as involved with this problem, since I only wanted to do this once and the parts were pretty cheap. The only slightly hard part was reconnecting the drum to the bearing, this could be easier with a third hand.Everything went well and the dryer works fine.

Followed online video. All went smooth. Runs great!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The part arrived just in the nick of time as my wife and daughter had strung up rope all over the family room to dry clothes. My son helped me lower the dryer to floor level ( this is a stackable washer/dryer set) Removed the top and front of cabinet. Removed the belt and popped out the drum. Took this opportunity to clean the amazing amount of lint from the blower housing and discharge hose ( it is my opinion that the accumulation of lint and the subsequent rise in operating temperature is the main cause of this bearing failure) Removed and replaced the rear bearing and greased it. Reassembled the drum,installed the belt and reassembled the cabinet. the only tools used were a screwdriver and a nut driver....and of course a vacuum cleaner. The rebuild kit is very complete and is the only way to go. Thanks for your fast delivery time, one more clothes line in the family room and I wouldn't be able to watch T.V.

first and foremost, watching video on replacement/repair was key to success.furthermore, i ordered part one day and was at my doorstep the following day. the installation process took approximately half of an hour which included vaccuuming cabinet of lint.

Taking it apart was no problem other than having to remove solidified grease in order to remove bearing. Also I found it easier to remove belt by removing screws holding drum in place first. Putting it back together was more involved. Taping metal strip to back with scotch tape made putting in new bracket a breeze. Tipping dryer on its' back was the only way I could get the screw holes to line up when installing the drum. Removing the vent cover, and installing from the back, made re-installing the belt tensioner much easier.

This was for my Daughter's dryer. A helper really makes this quick and easy. First of all-UNPLUG the unit from the wall. I pried the top up with flat screwdriver. Laid the top back against wall. Removed the two wires from the door cut-off switch. Then removed the two screw attaching the front to the cabinet. Removed the small access panel on back of cabinet. Depressed the belt tensioner to release pressure on the leather drive belt. Went back to front, pushed the belt to the rear of cabinet, then lifted the back of drum to pop the bearing up and out of the plastic cup. I then tilted the drum forward and down and removed through front of cabinet. Reached inside the drum with Phillips screwdriver, removing the two screws to realease the bearing and BB bracket from back of drum. I attached the new bearing cup with BB to the back of cabinet, filling the cup with the high temp grease provided in the cup. Before installing the new bearing on the drum, I ran the new screws into and back out of the new bearing to cut the threads, making it easier to attach on the drum. I then put the drum back into the cabinet popping the bearing into the top of the plastic cup. Next I went to the back, put a bit of grease on the shaft that the tensioner bearing rides on. I re-set the belt on the tensioner, making sure the belt was back in the original position around the drum. I then re-attached the front cabinet centering the front of the drum on the felt. This felt supports the front of the drum. I manually gave the drum a few turns to make sure the drum was centered properly, and belt was mounted correctly. I then re-attached the two wires to the door switch. Slid the dryer into position, inserted the plug back into the outlet. Turmed it on, and now the dryer runs like new again. My Daughter is happy again. You will want to have a vac handy because it is unbelievable how much lint and dust are in the cabinet. I also took the filter bracket apart and cleaned it too.

Parts Select has my high praise! Everything from the ease of the on-line ordering system to the video on how to install the parts (very well done!!) to the quick deliver...all was very impressive. My wife thinks I'm pretty cool that I was able to pull this repair job off and I definitely will come back if I need another part! Thanks for helping this "weekend warrior" shine! Bruce.

Tip: After pre-taping the threads on the ball shaft, use painter’s tape to hold it in place while you attach the screws. Do the same with the bearing retainer. Don’t use tape that will leave a residue when you remove it or your clothes will smell like adhesive. Tip for stacker dryer: There is no need to remove the wires connected to the front panel. Swing the panel around to the side. Put a small bungee cord through the door opening and attach it firmly to the top of the dryer. Make sure the cord carries all the weight and that there is no strain on the wires.

Followed the video on partselect web page.

There are really good instructions with photos on line - search squeeky dryer. I would add that it is easier if you mount the new bearing assembly on the drum before placing the drum back in the dryer cabinet. I guess this is obvious but was not stated in the referenced instructions. The round bearing slotts fairly easily into the plastic pillow block mounted on the back of the cabinet. Just make sure the small ball bearing remains in the center groove - lots of greese will help this.