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PartSelect Number PS459829
This kit includes one bearing, one ball shaft, one ball bearing, one ball bearing retainer, a small tube of high temperature lubricant and installation screws.
This part works with the following brands: Frigidaire, Gibson, Kelvinator, Kenmore, Tappan & White-Westinghouse.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
I first diagnosed the problem using a Google search. Amazing how many hits I got and after reading a few was pretty certain what the cause was and what parts I probably needed to make the repair.Some of the articles I read had links or mentioned PartSelect, so I searched for my model # and found the parts I would probably need. Knowing that I could probably get the parts I needed I disassembled the dryer (pretty easy really) and removed the old suspect part. It was devoid of lubricant and the bearing and ball showed some wear so I ordered the Bearing Assembly suggested by PartSelect (the illustrations looked just like my old parts). I left the dryer disassembled while I waited for the part, figuring it would take a week or so to arrive.Much to my surprise, the part arrived three days later and after cleaning the dryer innards of all collected lint I put it all back together in 30 minutes.So for a little research, a $30 part, and about an hour of my time, I have a clean and quiet operating dryer. I see no reason I can't get another 10 or so years out of it.I consider myself a reasonably handy guy but had never worked on a dryer before. I'll be unlikely to ever call a repairman without first doing some investigation and seeing if the parts are available. With the internet and PartSelect I think I could take on a lot of other repairs I'm not familiar with. Thanks for a great outcome this time around.Kevin
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popped the top off dryer, removed the tub . took the screws out of the tub bearing, and put the new one on. replaced the rear bearing holder. filled with greese provided.replaced the heating element, and put the tub back in with the belt around the tub. replaced the lint screen. put the belt around the pulley and replaced the cover. popped the top down.good as new
Popped the topped using a putty knife to free two clips in front. Remove two screws now accessible on the front inside panel. Remove two wires to door switch. Remove rear access door, two screws. Remove belt from tensioner in rear and remember or take picture of how it goes. Lift barrel slightly and pivot front panel out of the way. Lift barrel free from ball socket in rear. Lift out from front panel area. R & R kit and put back in reverse order.
My dad and I followed the video instructions and it was easy! No more ear piercing noise! I did find that once we took the front of the dryer off there was a lot of lint! Never thought to clean the front of the dryer out!The video was a great way to see exactly what you needed to do, just follow what they say and you will have no problems!
I followed the instructions on previous posts. The only problem I had was trying to remount the drum to the bearing unit which sits in the back of the driver. I just couldn't get the three holes lined up for the screws until I finally laid the dryer on its back, and then presto! - it went together in seconds.This project probably took me longer than most people because I'm always looking things over and a little cautious in my work. I never realized how simple a dryer system is until I had dismantled this one. I spent $38 to fix my dryer rather than buy a new one. $10 of that was for the belt which I changed only because I was in there. Parts from partselect.com arrived 48 hours after ordering, and I used their basic shipping.
Washer & dryer are stacked so I had to remove 2 screws connecting dryer to washer and lower dryer to floor. Used scraper blade to release the lid, removed 2 screws and disconnected wire harness to remove front panel. Used chisel to remove seals and "Goof-Off" to dissolve glue residue - it worked great! Carefully cleaned surface, applied glue to seals and clamped to panel. While waiting for glue to set, I removed the drum to replace the bearing assembly (which was in pretty good shape) and vacuumed out the dryer which had a heavy coating of lint (it hadn't been serviced in 10 years). Put everything back together only to find that something was clanging around when the dryer operated (fortunately, I ran the dryer before reinstalling it). Removed the vanes (by removing screw from outside the drum) and found several coins that were causing the problem. All in all, it was a fairly easy project, though using an effective glue solvent, such as Goof-Off was the key to an easy project.
After pulling out and unplugging my machine I followed the procedure already worked out by others. I bought and replaced all the parts that were listed as involved with this problem, since I only wanted to do this once and the parts were pretty cheap. The only slightly hard part was reconnecting the drum to the bearing, this could be easier with a third hand.Everything went well and the dryer works fine.
Followed online video. All went smooth. Runs great!!!!!!!!!!!!!
The part arrived just in the nick of time as my wife and daughter had strung up rope all over the family room to dry clothes. My son helped me lower the dryer to floor level ( this is a stackable washer/dryer set) Removed the top and front of cabinet. Removed the belt and popped out the drum. Took this opportunity to clean the amazing amount of lint from the blower housing and discharge hose ( it is my opinion that the accumulation of lint and the subsequent rise in operating temperature is the main cause of this bearing failure) Removed and replaced the rear bearing and greased it. Reassembled the drum,installed the belt and reassembled the cabinet. the only tools used were a screwdriver and a nut driver....and of course a vacuum cleaner. The rebuild kit is very complete and is the only way to go. Thanks for your fast delivery time, one more clothes line in the family room and I wouldn't be able to watch T.V.
first and foremost, watching video on replacement/repair was key to success.furthermore, i ordered part one day and was at my doorstep the following day. the installation process took approximately half of an hour which included vaccuuming cabinet of lint.
Taking it apart was no problem other than having to remove solidified grease in order to remove bearing. Also I found it easier to remove belt by removing screws holding drum in place first. Putting it back together was more involved. Taping metal strip to back with scotch tape made putting in new bracket a breeze. Tipping dryer on its' back was the only way I could get the screw holes to line up when installing the drum. Removing the vent cover, and installing from the back, made re-installing the belt tensioner much easier.
This was for my Daughter's dryer. A helper really makes this quick and easy. First of all-UNPLUG the unit from the wall. I pried the top up with flat screwdriver. Laid the top back against wall. Removed the two wires from the door cut-off switch. Then removed the two screw attaching the front to the cabinet. Removed the small access panel on back of cabinet. Depressed the belt tensioner to release pressure on the leather drive belt. Went back to front, pushed the belt to the rear of cabinet, then lifted the back of drum to pop the bearing up and out of the plastic cup. I then tilted the drum forward and down and removed through front of cabinet. Reached inside the drum with Phillips screwdriver, removing the two screws to realease the bearing and BB bracket from back of drum. I attached the new bearing cup with BB to the back of cabinet, filling the cup with the high temp grease provided in the cup. Before installing the new bearing on the drum, I ran the new screws into and back out of the new bearing to cut the threads, making it easier to attach on the drum. I then put the drum back into the cabinet popping the bearing into the top of the plastic cup. Next I went to the back, put a bit of grease on the shaft that the tensioner bearing rides on. I re-set the belt on the tensioner, making sure the belt was back in the original position around the drum. I then re-attached the front cabinet centering the front of the drum on the felt. This felt supports the front of the drum. I manually gave the drum a few turns to make sure the drum was centered properly, and belt was mounted correctly. I then re-attached the two wires to the door switch. Slid the dryer into position, inserted the plug back into the outlet. Turmed it on, and now the dryer runs like new again. My Daughter is happy again. You will want to have a vac handy because it is unbelievable how much lint and dust are in the cabinet. I also took the filter bracket apart and cleaned it too.
Tip: After pre-taping the threads on the ball shaft, use painter’s tape to hold it in place while you attach the screws. Do the same with the bearing retainer. Don’t use tape that will leave a residue when you remove it or your clothes will smell like adhesive. Tip for stacker dryer: There is no need to remove the wires connected to the front panel. Swing the panel around to the side. Put a small bungee cord through the door opening and attach it firmly to the top of the dryer. Make sure the cord carries all the weight and that there is no strain on the wires.
Followed the video on partselect web page.
There are really good instructions with photos on line - search squeeky dryer. I would add that it is easier if you mount the new bearing assembly on the drum before placing the drum back in the dryer cabinet. I guess this is obvious but was not stated in the referenced instructions. The round bearing slotts fairly easily into the plastic pillow block mounted on the back of the cabinet. Just make sure the small ball bearing remains in the center groove - lots of greese will help this.
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