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PartSelect Number PS423801
This defrost timer will cycle for thirty minutes after every eight hours of run time.
This part works with the following brands: Frigidaire, Gibson, Kelvinator, Kenmore, Tappan & White-Westinghouse.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Fridge is a side by side. The freezer is pretty narrow for a guy with wide shoulders. Pulled plug.Had to remove bottom drawers then used nut driver to remove screws closest to back wall in drawer runners. Once the back screws were removed the runners could be swung up or down out of way so back cover could be removed.Once back cover was removed thermostat was located attached to top pipe going into coil using a spring clamp.Cut the wires just outside the crimp connectors going into thermostat. Released the spring clamp buy squeezing botton together.Removed old badly corroded thermostat.I wish I had attached the crimp connectors to the new thermostat wires before mounting it. Reaching way in the back, while turning shoulders verticly and trying to get the wire connectors set from both sides was awkward and uncomfortable...The biggest PIA of the whole task.Once connected I let the fridge (thermostat) cool for 10 min. Turned the dial defrost timer to get it into defrost mode. Stupidly touched the heating element to see if it was getting warm...it was very hot. Coils steamed...every looked like it was working. Unplugged, put back cover back on and retattached drawer mounts.Plugged back in and everying is working great!
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My freezer would freeze up and not allow cold air to refrigerator side. First I took off bottom face plate, located the timer on left side bottom, removed the two screws and unpluged the timer. Replaced the timer with new one. Second I removed all food from freezer. Took of back of freezer wall with nut driver. Located the thermostat which was very easy to remove. Just one clip holding thermostat. Unplugged the two wires from the old thermostat and plugged in new wires. Thanks to Partselect.com, the parts were an exact match. Very easy to do. Saved my tons of money. Freezer and refer works like new.
First i killed the power and water supply to fridge. Then i removed all the racks in freezer and the 1/4" screws for rack supports with nut driver. Next i removed the evaporator cover 1/4" screws to gain access. Then i removed the the 1/4" screw that holds the evaporator at the bottom and moved the evaporator outward to remove the heater element. Then i installed new heater element from the bottom of the evaporator making sure it was in the center of the evap coils.Next i replaced the defrost thermostat cutting the old wires. Then stripped and crimpped the new thermostat in place making sure of the same installed postion as removed.Next i replaced the defrost timer located at the bottom left using philips head screw driver.Next i replaced the water filter by turning it counterclockwise to remove. Then restored power and water supply. Next i tested the heater element by turning the dial on the defrost timer clockwise until it clicked and watched the element glow.Then waited for the deforst thermostat to shut off the heater. Finally i checked the evaporator drain iin the back of fridge for blockage and cleaned out completely.Repairs successful fridge good as new.
First - I asked a person familiar in ref/freezer repair for assistance. This was the hardest issue - trying to find someone to offer "free" advise. He stated that when this problem occurs it is usually one of two things: 1) The defrost timer (underneath Refrigerator - Attached w/2 screws and plug-n connector) not functioning or 2) The defrost sensor (clipped-on to the coolant line (2-press-on wires) above the main coolant coil in in rear of freezer section behind panel secured w/5 1/4" hex-head screws) not properly sensing need for defrosting. The Tech. also stated that the defrost/heat coil, which surrounds the large coolant coil in the back of the freezer hardly ever goes bad unless it is the glass/clear type coil which often crack. (Mine was the black filament type element like found in an electric oven). I check the element with an ohm meter - 27 ohms of resistance which indicated it was okay). I replaced both defrost timer & defrost sensor at the same time and that fixed the problem. Parts ordered were an exact match to originals (dispite model number changes/upgrades) and everything went very well. NOTE: It is good to have the part numbers off of each original item and know what they are called before placing your order. All fixed for less than $50.00. A service call alone would be more than this. Took about 2 hours to do, due to having to defost the iced-up freezer coil w/a hair blower. Don't use sharp objects to chip away ice, let the blower do the work - Patience and a couple of towels to absorb water is important here. Hope this helps the other do-it-yourselfers.
This was extremely easy. Took off the control box (housing that covers the light bulb, has the temp control dial on it) and easily replaced the defrost timer. Then, emptied freezer, took off cover at the back of the freezer. Disconnected old defrost thermostat, attached new one, reattached back cover, melted accumulated ice, put stuff back in. Started up. Been running great ever since. No more ice accumulation in freezer. Temp stays constant. Great service from PartSelect, saved lots of money. This job is easy on this fridge, go for it!
Ice build up to back of freezer. Fridge way too warm for preserving food/drinks. Unplugged fridge and de-thaw freezer with a hair dryer. Removed and replaced defrost timer in the fridge area which simply unscrews and plugs in. The video supplied by PartSelect worked well for this.The Defrost Thermostat required a bit more work as it is accessed through the freezer compartment. I had to remove two screws to get the back cover that houses the fan removed. Then you cut the wires from the old Thermostat and remove it before splicing in the new Defrost Thermostat using the supplied crimps and matching the wire colors. It is useful to have a good wire stripper/crimper ready to make the job simple (I bought a pro one for $28 at Home Depot but they can be found cheaper). Also, there is a bit of heat shrink material included to protect the wires from moisture so a heat-gun will do the trick or Good quality electricians tape will also cut it. I then sparked it up and it works as new. :)
My freezer was frozen but my refrigerated side was not cooling, the temp was actually around 60-degrees. After inspecting i noticed no air was flowing through the vent from freezer side to fridge side. I removed everything from freezer and took the back wall panel off inside freezer section and immedietely noticed alot of ice on coils etc. After researching i found the defrost timer was not working and thus allowing frost and ice to build up on coils and block air flow. My defrost timer was located on the front bottom left behind kick panel, using a phillips screwdriver i removed 2 screws and then disconnected wire harness to the defrost timer. Then i inserted new defrost timer and connected wire harness and then put the 2 screws back in. My fridge is now working great and the ice build-up is gone and i am getting good air flow .. temps on fridge side are now between 32-34degrees. This was an easy project and saved me alot of money doing myself
THERMOSTAT--First I removed the fours crews that hold the back of freezer (inside freezer) in place. I then pulled the thermostat out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Plugged in the new one and put back in place. Replaced freezer back and installed the four screws that holds it in.(iIf your freezer has a ice maker just loosen the 2 screws that hold it and lift the ice maker up off the screws DEFROST TIMER--- removed one screw inside fridge by light bulb that holds in the timer and setting knob, then took out the two screws that held in the timer unplugged the old timer and replaced with the new one put back in the two screws that holds the timer in then replaced the one screw that holds the unit in place
First, I replaced the defrost timer, really easy, 4 screws popped the cover of the electronic area (top of refrigerator compartment) took it out and plugged in the new time. Unit still would not defrost, so replaced the thermostat as well. Bit harder, removed ice maker, 2 screws, back plate from freezer, 4 screws. Thermostat was clamped to a copper tube- the original had one of the wires hanging out of it- cut the wires and crimped the new wires on, shrunk the plastic tube with blow dryer over the wires (taped them for good measure) and so far so good. Learned most of this through these tips, so keep reading if this isn't your problem, just save myself $1000 on a new refrifgerator...
First, unplug the refrigerator since you're working with live wires.Remove the 4 Philips sheet metal screws holding the plastic housing that holds the temperature control to the top of the refrigerator compartment. Pull the housing down then out since there is a tube on the housing where the water flows out the back of the refrigerator during the defrost cycle.Remove the 2 Philips screws holding the defrost timer on the plastic housing. Pull the connectors off the old timer and attach them in exactly the same positions on the new defrost timer.Attach the new defrost timer to the plastic housing with the 2 screws.Reinstall the plastic housing, making sure the water tube is inserted into the back of the refrigerator wall.Plug the refrigerator back in and you're done.
verifed temp cntrol by putting element in ice bath removed box and replaced both time and control
i removed the 4 screws holding cover. removed two screws holding timer. unplugged timer. plugged in new one. reassembled.
Used exploded parts view to locate part. Removed old part and replaced with new defrost timer. Piece of cake.
remove all freezer items and remove back panel covering the coils - about 8-10 nuts using a nut driver. The coils in my refridgerator were covered with a heavy frost - thermostat was also frozen over. Manually turn the defrost timer so the fan turns off to observe if the heating element is working (defrost timer is on the bottom front of the refrigerator on the left side). My heating element did work so I decided to replace the thermostat and defrost timer. Unplug the refrigerator. Disconnect 2 wires connecting the thermostat and unhook. Replacing with new thermostat - red and white wires that have male/female connectors and hook onto coil as before. Note that two parts with similar names were offered by PartsSelect and you really couldn't tell which was the right one - I got both but returning the unused one was very easy but cost a couple of bucks in shipping. Next, take out two screws and the bracket that holds the defrost timer in place and unplug it. Plug in the new one and screw it back in. Reinstall the back panel - throw out all that stuff in the freezer that you've had in there for 10 years and turn it back on - very simple and it worked perfectly. Very good experience with returning parts - excellent customer service.
At top of refrigerator compartment, took out screws to cover (where temp control is) and to the right took out 2 screws to remove defrost timer and installed in reverse order. In freezer compartment, unscrewed back of freezer wall and took off completely. Removed old freezer thermostat, the body of freezer thermostat snapped onto coil and wire plugged in. Let run for 24 hrs, then made adjustments to temps, so far temps are back in normal range.
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