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PartSelect Number PS419402
The dryer thermal limiter, also known as a thermal fuse, blows the fuse to cut off power to the dryer when the dryer begins to overheat. Once the dryer reached 220 degrees Fahrenheit, the heat cuts out. If the thermal fuse is defective, damaged, or blown up then the dryer wont start, especially since it cannot be reset. It must be replaced if the following symptoms occur: the dryer overheats, takes too long to dry clothes, or there is not enough heat in the dryer. The tools needed for this repair are, a screwdriver, putty knife and needle-nose pliers. This part is manufactured for both gas and electric dryers.
This part works with the following brands: Frigidaire, Gibson, Kelvinator, Kenmore, Tappan & White-Westinghouse.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Unplugged Dryer.Opened top of Dryer, over the drum.Removed Thermal Limiter.Tested the Thermal Limiter - found it was open.Checked all vents and exhaust tube for lint build-up.Replaced Thermal Limiter.Closed top of dryer.Plugged Dryer back.Tested Dryer - it works.
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I found a electrical diagram and some common problems on some websites which led me to check the thermal limiters. There are two right up top near the back of the dryer - one mounted closer to the heating coils and one mounted directly to the sheet metal on the inside back of the dryer. Using an DMM on the "Ohms" setting, I checked each sensor to make sure that they were "closed" (near zero ohms). Sure enough, the sensor mounted on the back of the enclosure was open (high resistance) which prevented the dryer from starting. To confirm, I shorted the two leads going to the sensor together temporarily and wrapped them with electrical tape and then tested the dryer - it worked perfectly. The part from Part Select was ordered and shipped very quickly. Since the sheet metal screws holding the sensor on were difficult to access with the drum in place, I used small machine screws/nuts to fasten the sensor - this allowed me to tighten the nuts from the outside of the dryer, making it very easy to attach.
removed the screws, disconnected the wires. installed the new elements replaced the wires.
Installer unscrewed the screws on the upper panel, loosened the pulley holding the rubber drum cable, and pulled the drum up and out of the unit. With the rear heating element exposed, he unplugged the wire connections to the heating element, unscrewed the four screws holding the element to the rear panel and took the element out. Then he installed the new heating element by re-applying the four screws into the rear panel. He then replaced the thermal limiter which was directly at the right of the heating element by unplugging the wire connections to the thermal limiter and then unscrewing the thermal limiter from the rear panel. The process to install the new thermal limiter was the reverse process. He didn't install a new High Limit Thermostat because there was one attached to the new Heater. When all the new parts were installed, he reinstalled the drum by pushing the rear nub of the drum into the whole at the center of the heating plate. He then placed the rubber drum cable around the drum with the rough service facing the drum, placed the cable on the pulley and adjusted the tension of the cable with a screw driver. He then reinstalled the front panel by aligned the screw holes and reinserting and tightening the screws.
The first thing I did was cheked the electrical panel and breaker, then I checked the electrical cord, then I did check the motor on the bottom of the machine (that may be is the blower motor) looking for any indication of burned parts or broken, then I checked the on-off switch with a voltmeter looking for continuity and it was fine. Then I checked the timer switch and it was fine as well. Finally, I took the lid off the top of the dryer machine to check the thermostat and themal limiter fuse. The thermostat was fine but the thermal fuse was open. So after doing some research to understand how the fuse work I decided to place an order to get a new fuse. I installed it and the dryer started working again. After replacing the fuse I monitored the dryer machine while operating it and worked fine. Why the fuse was open or was damaged? It is the first time I have problems w/ the dryer. I checked the end of the conduct line that guide the air out and I noticed and have to clean the end of it because it was dirt. Because it was not completly clean, the dryer got overheated. It took me sometime to figure out the problem but I learned, save me money and the best part was that I do it myself : )
I looked at two Youtube videos, one by Repair Clinic and the other by Shawn C Farm on how to take apart a Frigidaire dryer, and with Part Select diagram as to where the parts were located within the dryer which I was going to replace, made the job easy. Youtube www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qg1W9RrxXLY Youtube www.youtube.com/watch?v=zc1sTUiYzzk
Unplung it, pop up the top and take it off, unplug the 2 plugs, take 2 screws out that hold the front door, take out the door. Get the belt loose from the back roller, pull out the entire drum. I changed all 3 thermostat, 2 in the back and 1 in the front, also change the rear bearing. Dryer works great now, no more squeeking and no more overheating it's like having a new dryer. I'm a woman and did it all by myself, save me a bunch of bucks!!!
1) Unplug the unit.2) Remove all screws from top of the unit except for the one in the center front that does not go through the outer casing. 3) Find the Thermal Limiter which is on the back wall near the top on the left side when looking from the front.4) Disconnect the two wires 5) Remove the two screws that mount the limiter to the back wall.6) Use an ohmeter to test if a current flows through the unit. If no current flows through (an open switch), then the unit will need to be replaced.7) Clean any lint that you can at this point.8) Use two screws to mount new Thermal Limiter9) Reconnect the two wires to the Limiter.10) Attach the top of the dryer case.
Unplugged the dryer from electrical socket. Vacuumed lint from dryer and exit hose. Removed top from dryer. Used pliers to remove the 2 wires from the thermal limiter. Used screwdriver to remove 2 screws that held the limiter in place.Installed the new limiter, connected the 2 wires, plugged in the dryer's electrical connection, turned on dryer, and resumed my "washday chores".
After reading about similar problems people have had with this make of dryer, I focused attention on the thermal limiter. I determined that it was the culprit by "jumping" it with a 6" piece of wire. Then I simply went on the site, ordered the part. It arrived a few days later and I pulled out the old one, screwed in the new one, and the dryer is good as new.
I don't think it would take others as long as it took me.I had to take the drum out to get to the limiter. And my dryer is in a builtin housing with limited space in front of the dryer - so lots of manuevers to get access. The limiter was very easy to find, thanks to diagrams on this site. The space between drum and limiter made it impossible to get to the limiter screws without removing drum. Found very helpful drum removal instructions on PartSelect here:http://www.partselect.com/PS1148434-Frigidaire-134503600-Dryer-Drum-Belt.htm?SourceCode=13&ModelNum=FSE748GFS0Great site - thank you.
I contacted a company to come out and diagnose the problem. They informed me that the thermal limiter is bad and needed to be replaced for $15 for the part and $85 labor. I found the part on this site for about $10, and did the repair myself. The dryer was mostly dismantled so I pulled the drum back, and replaced the part. The tricky part was the pulley system was, so make sure you see it before hand or find a diagram online. Once that was figured out, I set the drum back up, greased and tightened the pulley, reattached the front of the washer with connections, and closed the lid.
The hardest part was getting to the part and removing it and putting it back on. The schematics that you had on your website helped us locate where it needed to go and, hopefully, that will solve our problem.
Basically, i followed instructions on 1 video i seen, but was able to shorten repair by not removing drum, and was still able to access the thermal limiter switch to remove old one and install new one. Worked like a charm. Thanks Dan
I used the percentage scale on this website to try and determine the likely cause. After reading several sites, I couldn't make sense of the timer not working on just one type cycle. When I got the dryer drum off, I could plainly see that one of the heater coils was broken. They get heat stressed and break down over time and a hard shake probably finished this off. This unit is 5 plus years old. It was Saturday and I had no heater, so I actually found it at a local parts supplier. Also replaced the drum bearing and the bearing cup in the rear along with the heater. BTW, a new heater comes with a HIGH thermal switch attached to it so don't buy it extra. The bearing cone also comes with a new bushing in the pack. I DID use the Thermal Limiter that I order from the site because I was already in there. Everything works great now. I may have gotten most off my parts elsewhere but this site was the biggest help of them all. I will definitely be back here again.
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