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PartSelect Number PS418807
If your dryer does not tumble, will not start, is noisy, or is leaving marks on your clothing, you may need to replace the drum support bearing. The drum is supported at the rear by a bearing, which attaches onto the inside of the rear panel of the cabinet. You will need to remove the dryer drum before completing this repair. Although replacing the drum support bearing is a fairly easy job, you will need tools to complete it. For this repair, you will need a putty knife, a Phillips screw driver, a 5/16 nut driver and maybe a small flat blade screw driver.
This part works with the following brands: Frigidaire, Gibson, Kelvinator, Kenmore, Tappan & White-Westinghouse.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
This OEM drum bearing bracket holds and supports the drum bearing in your clothes dryer. The bracket is located behind the dryer drum. Common symptoms that are linked to faulty or damaged drum bearing brackets include: the dryer will not start, will not tumble, or the dryer is making loud squeaking or grinding sounds. If there is an issue with the bearing bracket, it will need to be replaced. Replacing the bracket has been listed as a very easy to easy repair by many of our customers. Remember to disconnect the power to your dryer before beginning this repair.
This ball hitch provides support to the drum located at the back wall of the dryer. This allows the drum to spin. The bearing may have gone bad and you might notice that the ball is cut off. The ball hitch might need to be replaced if you notice that your dryer is extra noisy, is not tumbling properly, or will not start at all. The ball hitch is made of metal and measures 5 inches in diameter. This is an OEM part that is sourced directly from the manufacturer.
I watched the video on the web site after selecting the part and it was pretty simple. Everything worked just like the video showed. Probably could have been done faster but I took time to vacuum the inside of the dryer out. Really liked the video.
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Excellent!!! The parts fit perfectly, but most of all was the video that went through the repair step-by-step.A local repairman quoted $198 for parts and another $150 for labor. Got the parts here for less that $26!!!!The only issue (very minor) was the video called for a phillips head screwdriver to remove the front panel, and our dryer needed a squarehead driver. (If I was younger, I would have been able to see the problem).But, I highly recommend Partselect!!!!
we removed the top of the dryer which was clipped on. then removed the front, including the door, being careful to unhook the electrical elements. then we removed the screws that attached the dryer drum to the back of the shaft. then we took the shaft out of the bracket. then we removed the plate from the back of the dryer that held the ball, the bearing and the bracket together. then we waited for parts and thanked God that the weather was fair so we could hang our clean clothes out!!! the parts came ahead of the rain so it was reverse order. then try the dryer!!!fantastic!! to qoute my kids "you rock"
Taking apart cleaning putting back together I don't have any h-t lube so ill be doing it again. Thanks for the part ill be calling again!
removed drum & replaced bearing, belt & shaft - reassembled
removed top and front panel on stackable dyer unit. 3 screws at back of the inside of the drum, and the drum was out. installed new bearing and belt and all was good.
Removed the top of the dryer above the dryer door by pulling the pop out plastic holds. I then removed the dryer plug in at the top inside dryer that controls the start when dryer door is closed. I thenremoved the screws that are located at the back of the dryer tub where the bearing is located. I then replaced the support bearing. I just replaced every thing I took off in reverse.
I removed the panel's that enclosed the drum, removed the drum and cleaned all the lint around the drum, heat panel, drive motor, and switch's.removed the old support bearing and grounding ball then applied grease into the new support hub and reinstalled the new hub and grounding ball and then reassembled the dryer. Runs like it was new.
Open top of dryer using flat head screw driver. Remover wires off of front door safety switch. Remover 2 bolts holding on front panel . Then i removed bottom access dooor on the back side of the drier. Took belt off of drum. Then i removed drum by lifting up on the back of drum and pulling it out the front. I replaced drum support bearing. With the front panel off. i replaced the seal basket lower, and drum glide top. My drier was almost 10 years old. thats why i replaced the belt and drum support bearing. The drum support bearing was in bad shape. Now my drier is quite and doesnt mark up clothes with rusty marks.
Taking off front of and top of dryer and panels on the back. Releasing the belt and taking out the tube un screwing the two pieces off the back of the machine putting new ones in and putting belt back around drum and setting drum in. Then holding drum while the front is put back on then attach top and a couple panels on the back.
removed top and front of machine. removed drum. replaced shaft, bearing bracket, and support bearing from inside. replaced grrounding ball and clip from outside. reassemble.this should be available as a kit, and should include high temp grease to put in bearing bracket
After reading other posts on this page I learned that these symptoms are very common for older dryers when the felt bearings ("seals") are worn out. I replaced the top and bottom felt strips (the top one has plastic wear pads which had completely worn away on my machine). I also took the time to replace the rear plastic bearing and the belt (pretty cheap parts). In addition, after opening up the dryer I found that one of the wire pigtails connectors was black and melted from arcing (bad connection). I replaced the bad connectors with crip-on connectors from Radioshack ($2). Incidentally, I bought lifetime supply of high temp wheel bearing grease: one tub for $7... and used about a teaspoon, but hey, that's still cheap. The hardest part was cleaning off the old felt adhesive, I used nail polish remover to soften the old glue and scrapped of 80% with a screw driver... good enough! I held the new felt on with duct tape until the glue dried. I suggest watching the installation video for the rear bearing replacement I found on this website. It showed me where the screws are and the trick for lifting up the back of the tub using the belt to disengage the rear bearing. It was a snap.
I look up on the internet on how to disassemble dryer to get to the parts needed. Took off top, found screws to take off front. Removed existing drum riding seal and lower seal. Used laquer thinner to remove excess glue. Cleaned throughly with soap and water. Reapplied new seals. At the same time removed drum and parts in the back of the dryer for ball bearing. great, expeditious help from your store. Thank you
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