418807-1-S-Frigidaire-131825900         -Drum Support Bearing
418807-1-S-Frigidaire-131825900         -Drum Support Bearing 418807-2-S-Frigidaire-131825900         -Drum Support Bearing 418807-3-S-Frigidaire-131825900         -Drum Support Bearing http://www.partselect.com/Schematics/Frigidaire/Frigidaire_Thumb/6SLAUZTK.gif

Drum Support Bearing

PartSelect Number PS418807

This part attaches onto the inside of the rear panel of the cabinet.

This part works with the following brands: Frigidaire, Gibson, Kelvinator, Kenmore, Tappan & White-Westinghouse.

This part fixes the following symptoms:

  • Noisy.
  • Will not tumble.
  • Marks left on clothes.
  • Will Not Start.
  • Compare At

    $3.40
  • You Save

    $.57
  • Your Price

    $2.83
In Stock
Fast Shipping Get this part fast. Average delivery time via regular ground: 1.8 days.

Videos For installing this part.

Related Parts Additional or alternate parts to consider.

Part PhotoPart DescriptionPriceAvailability

Bearing Bracket

Part Number 418632

This part mounts on the inside of the rear cabinet.

$8.70
In Stock

Ball Hitch

Part Number 418736

You can get this part in a kit also.

$39.27
In Stock

Installation Instructions Provided by PartSelect customers like you.

Average Repair Rating: 2.9 / 5.0, 42 reviews What's this?
 

38 of 42 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyEasy

Time to do repair:1- 2 hours

ToolsPliers, Screw drivers, Socket set

CustomerRandy from Anchorage, AK

Burn/rust marks on clothes

Like many others, i was suffering the problem of rust marks on clothes, which ruins them for good.

We have a Frigidaire Gallery dryer, gas, front loading stacked in top of the washer, which is about 7 or 8 years old.

Turns out the top felt seal was worn out, allowing clothes to get stuck between the drum and the door where they would get the rust colored stain. I think this is fairly common. It also "ate" zippers and buttons.

To open the dryer up, you first want to remove 2 screws at the bottom of the front panel, they are covered by little plastic plugs that pop out. Then, go in through the top- you have to pop the lid up from the front, and it swings up like a car hood. from the top, you have to reach in and undo a screw on each side that holds the front panel to the body of the dryer. it's a little tricky.

After those four screws are removed, the front panel is held on by pressure clips, which you can reach from the top and squeeze so they 'let go'. As those release, the front panel will fall outward with the bottom still attached- there are two small pieces of metal at the bottom that the panel sits in. So you lift the panel straight up to get them off those two guides/hooks, and it's clear.

Next you'll want to shop vac the heck out the whole dryer interior. Mine was caked with dust and lint.

Step two is felt replacement. you have to use some muscle to tear the felt off the top of the door opening, which will leave a bunch of ripped felt stuck to the high temp glue. That's where the wire brush and the Goof Off come in. That stuff worked like a charm to remove every last bit of felt and glue.

Once clean and dry, apply the glue that came with the felt guide, set the felt in place (with those plastic pieces facing up), and hold in place for a while. I used plastic clamps to hold the felt in place for about 30 minutes while the glue set.

For good measure, i also replaced the dryer belt and the plastic ball joint that the drum sits in, but i don't think that was necessary. The belt may be a good idea, and to do that you remove the belt by popping it off the little plastic wheel under the drum first, then it'll be loose and you can remove the belt and put a new one on. (This is also a little tricky, take it one step at a time.)

Then put it back together in reverse order and you'll be done with those rust marks.

(Mine is working great)

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20 of 25 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyA Bit Difficult

Time to do repair:1- 2 hours

ToolsPliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set

CustomerGlenn from Fort Worth, TX

Dryer squealed loudly

First, I removed the top panel which is held on at the front by pressure clips. Second, I removed the entire front panel which entailed removing 2 screws and 2 wire couplings. Third, I removed the 3 screws on the inside center of the drum which turned out to be unnecessary. Fourth, I slid the drum forward in order to access the rear bearing. Lastly, I replaced the entire bearing assembly including the shaft, bracket, bearing, grounding ball and clip. Again, probably not needed but I had ordered the parts in advance in preparation for the worst.

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20 of 26 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyEasy

Time to do repair:30 - 60 mins

ToolsNutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers

CustomerDavid from Seattle, WA

Dryer wouldn't heat up

I waded into this project without knowing what I was doing and as a result did much more work than was needed. What I should have done was 1) open access panel at lower left of back of dryer and rmove belt from pully 2) push screwdriver in against clips in seem at top front of dryer (where top meets face) and lift top up and off hinges at back 3) remove screws holding front of dryer to the sides of the dryer cabinet (about 1 foot down) and swing front down on hinges at bottom 4) lift dryer drum straight up out of the bracket at the back of the dryer 5) remove wires from the dryer element and heat sensor on the heater pan (about 4 and 1 o'clock respectively wires are on tight, may need plieres) 6) unscrew heater pan from back of dryer 7) remove heat sensor from old heater pan and put on new heater pan 8) screw new heater pan to back of dryer 9) replace wires to elements and sensor, you may want to "crimp" the connectors onto the tabs 10) replace dryer drum slipping back into back bracket, be sure that dryer belt is around drum as when you openned the dryer 11) lift up front so that drum fits around and is supported by flange molded into front 12) replace screws that attach front to dryer cabinet 13) replace top of dryer (put back on hinges at back and lower onto clips in front 14) put dryer belt back on pully and replace access plate.

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13 of 18 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyReally Easy

Time to do repair:15 - 30 mins

ToolsNutdriver, Screw drivers

CustomerJason from Bellevue, IA

Dryer was missing the grounding ball and making a loud squeal

First I located the two clips holding the top of the machine on and opened the top of the dryer. I then disconnected the two wires on the door switch and removed the two screws holding the front panel on. After removing the front panel, I vacuumed all the loose lint and as far into the lint trap as possible. I then removed the back vent panel and released the drum belt from the pulley. I pulled the drum out of the support bearing. Then I removed two screws holding the drum support bearing, bracket, and grounding ball clip. I replaced the grounding ball and drum support bearing with new parts, (as the drum support bearing was damaged without the grounding ball). Then I reversed the order and put the dryer back together. Overall I felt the job was easy and I'm happy to be able to use a quiet machine again!!!

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13 of 23 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyA Bit Difficult

Time to do repair:More than 2 hours

ToolsPliers, Screw drivers, Socket set

CustomerIvan from Guaynabo, Puerto Rico, AL

Dryer wouldn't heat

First: Remove front and top cover
Second: remove electrical cover assbly
Third: motor belt removed
Fourth: drum assbly and bearing shaft and bracket bearing replaced
Now I need urgently (already ordered) the thermostat and glide drum

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