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PartSelect Number PS418807
If your dryer does not tumble, will not start, is noisy, or is leaving marks on your clothing, you may need to replace the drum support bearing. The drum is supported at the rear by a bearing, which attaches onto the inside of the rear panel of the cabinet. You will need to remove the dryer drum before completing this repair. Although replacing the drum support bearing is a fairly easy job, you will need tools to complete it. For this repair, you will need a putty knife, a Phillips screw driver, a 5/16 nut driver and maybe a small flat blade screw driver.
This part works with the following brands: Frigidaire, Gibson, Kelvinator, Kenmore, Tappan & White-Westinghouse.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
This OEM drum bearing bracket holds and supports the drum bearing in your clothes dryer. The bracket is located behind the dryer drum. Common symptoms that are linked to faulty or damaged drum bearing brackets include: the dryer will not start, will not tumble, or the dryer is making loud squeaking or grinding sounds. If there is an issue with the bearing bracket, it will need to be replaced. Replacing the bracket has been listed as a very easy to easy repair by many of our customers. Remember to disconnect the power to your dryer before beginning this repair.
This ball hitch provides support to the drum located at the back wall of the dryer. This allows the drum to spin. The bearing may have gone bad and you might notice that the ball is cut off. The ball hitch might need to be replaced if you notice that your dryer is extra noisy, is not tumbling properly, or will not start at all. The ball hitch is made of metal and measures 5 inches in diameter. This is an OEM part that is sourced directly from the manufacturer.
We followed the instructions for the drum glide replacement and changed the belt and drum support bearing piece, cleaned it out too. Works like a charm. Thanks for saving us a bundle.
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I was getting brown spots on my clothing since I bought this used dryer. Went to partselect.com Fine with me, but not my wife and daughter! Anyway, after ruling out rust, I ended up here and found Randy's story - without it, I'd be lost! Basically, the felt seal crushes over time, and clothing gets caught in the gap stuck against this nasty old brown felt and leaves a mark.Replacing the belt was a very good idea, though as mentioned, the drum support bearing is just a "nice to do" - not necessary, but it gives you the excuse to re-grease it (I used a thick Molly impregnated grease from my motorcycle).The only other advice I can give is that I used a chisel to scrape off the old felt - it came off in very little time, and I didn't end up needing to really do much cleaning of the drum afterwards. Just use a sharp one you're not afraid to dull - it'll be metal-on-metal contact.Using the spring-loaded clamps that you can get from the hardware store was also a huge help - it just needs to keep the upper glide stuck to the drum for the 30 minutes for the glue to cure - I used 6, but 3 would work. The bottom seal doesn't need them as the felt will tend to stick to the drum when the glue is applied.You might not NEED to replace the lower seal, but I'd suggest it. It's cheap enough, and this job is "not fun" enough that it only adds a few minutes total - good insurance that you do a complete job.You also might want to get some aluminum foil tape and re-tape your blower extension tube - mine was ripped off from moving from house to house over the years.
well, i started at the top and worked my way down. by taking the top off, it gave me more room to get the dryer tub out. took the two screw`s out of the vented plate on the back of the machine to undo the belt. this is a stackable washer-dryer combo, so next i took off the white plate on front between washer & dryer. took off the control panel, unpluged it, then took dryer door front off. then removed the two screw`s that hold that bracket on ,in the back of dryer, pulled the drum out & replaced the belt, but before replacing anything i took the shopvac to it , there was alot of lint in there.when replacing the Grounding Ball Clip & Grounding Ball, i took a one inch by two inch magnet and used it to hold the Grounding Ball & Clip in place so i could get the two screws started in the Drum Support Bearing & Bearing Bracket. after installing that i put the shaft in place & lined the dryer tub up with the 3 screw hole`s ,and boom, bang, pow...nothing to it. it`s easy...parts came very fast....Thx PartsSelect.com...i`ve told all my friend`s about PartsSelect
This is a combo washer/dryer. First, I replaced the Idler Arm pulley but the noise didn't stop - it was easy to replace with two screws holding a access panel door in the back of the unit. Next I had to take off the front of the dryer unit to access the drum bearing and replace the dryer belt. There were many screws and electrical connections to remove. After replacing the drum bearing, there was a plate on the back that had to be held while attaching the screws from the front. Since I was alone, I taped the plate in place to hold it while I attached the screws.
I followed others suggestions with numbered steps and listened to others suggestions about replacing other parts while in the dryer. I took the dryer apart and cleaned it out well. I used acetone to remove the glue from the felt and Drum Glide at the top of the Drum. It worked much better than Goo Gone. By doing the clean up and evaluation one day, I ordered all the parts that I saw were worn or difficult to get to. I replaced the Heating Element only because the old one was very brittle and to get to it again would be difficult. Also, I followed other's advice to photograph the parts before removing. It was easy to remember how things went if I had a photo to refer to. When the parts arrived it only took about 30 minutes to install them all because the glue removal, lint removal, and parts removal had been done another day. I should add that I am a 66 year old woman and found the job quite simple. Excellent web site. Thanks to others for the step-by-step instructions. Oh, to hold the Drum Glide and felt in place while the glue cured, clothes pins work great. I let the glue cure overnight to make sure that it was really secure.
Like many others, i was suffering the problem of rust marks on clothes, which ruins them for good. We have a Frigidaire Gallery dryer, gas, front loading stacked in top of the washer, which is about 7 or 8 years old. Turns out the top felt seal was worn out, allowing clothes to get stuck between the drum and the door where they would get the rust colored stain. I think this is fairly common. It also "ate" zippers and buttons. To open the dryer up, you first want to remove 2 screws at the bottom of the front panel, they are covered by little plastic plugs that pop out. Then, go in through the top- you have to pop the lid up from the front, and it swings up like a car hood. from the top, you have to reach in and undo a screw on each side that holds the front panel to the body of the dryer. it's a little tricky.After those four screws are removed, the front panel is held on by pressure clips, which you can reach from the top and squeeze so they 'let go'. As those release, the front panel will fall outward with the bottom still attached- there are two small pieces of metal at the bottom that the panel sits in. So you lift the panel straight up to get them off those two guides/hooks, and it's clear. Next you'll want to shop vac the heck out the whole dryer interior. Mine was caked with dust and lint. Step two is felt replacement. you have to use some muscle to tear the felt off the top of the door opening, which will leave a bunch of ripped felt stuck to the high temp glue. That's where the wire brush and the Goof Off come in. That stuff worked like a charm to remove every last bit of felt and glue. Once clean and dry, apply the glue that came with the felt guide, set the felt in place (with those plastic pieces facing up), and hold in place for a while. I used plastic clamps to hold the felt in place for about 30 minutes while the glue set. For good measure, i also replaced the dryer belt and the plastic ball joint that the drum sits in, but i don't think that was necessary. The belt may be a good idea, and to do that you remove the belt by popping it off the little plastic wheel under the drum first, then it'll be loose and you can remove the belt and put a new one on. (This is also a little tricky, take it one step at a time.) Then put it back together in reverse order and you'll be done with those rust marks. (Mine is working great)
First, I removed the top panel which is held on at the front by pressure clips. Second, I removed the entire front panel which entailed removing 2 screws and 2 wire couplings. Third, I removed the 3 screws on the inside center of the drum which turned out to be unnecessary. Fourth, I slid the drum forward in order to access the rear bearing. Lastly, I replaced the entire bearing assembly including the shaft, bracket, bearing, grounding ball and clip. Again, probably not needed but I had ordered the parts in advance in preparation for the worst.
I waded into this project without knowing what I was doing and as a result did much more work than was needed. What I should have done was 1) open access panel at lower left of back of dryer and rmove belt from pully 2) push screwdriver in against clips in seem at top front of dryer (where top meets face) and lift top up and off hinges at back 3) remove screws holding front of dryer to the sides of the dryer cabinet (about 1 foot down) and swing front down on hinges at bottom 4) lift dryer drum straight up out of the bracket at the back of the dryer 5) remove wires from the dryer element and heat sensor on the heater pan (about 4 and 1 o'clock respectively wires are on tight, may need plieres) 6) unscrew heater pan from back of dryer 7) remove heat sensor from old heater pan and put on new heater pan 8) screw new heater pan to back of dryer 9) replace wires to elements and sensor, you may want to "crimp" the connectors onto the tabs 10) replace dryer drum slipping back into back bracket, be sure that dryer belt is around drum as when you openned the dryer 11) lift up front so that drum fits around and is supported by flange molded into front 12) replace screws that attach front to dryer cabinet 13) replace top of dryer (put back on hinges at back and lower onto clips in front 14) put dryer belt back on pully and replace access plate.
First: Remove front and top coverSecond: remove electrical cover assblyThird: motor belt removedFourth: drum assbly and bearing shaft and bracket bearing replacedNow I need urgently (already ordered) the thermostat and glide drum
First I located the two clips holding the top of the machine on and opened the top of the dryer. I then disconnected the two wires on the door switch and removed the two screws holding the front panel on. After removing the front panel, I vacuumed all the loose lint and as far into the lint trap as possible. I then removed the back vent panel and released the drum belt from the pulley. I pulled the drum out of the support bearing. Then I removed two screws holding the drum support bearing, bracket, and grounding ball clip. I replaced the grounding ball and drum support bearing with new parts, (as the drum support bearing was damaged without the grounding ball). Then I reversed the order and put the dryer back together. Overall I felt the job was easy and I'm happy to be able to use a quiet machine again!!!
Took off front panel, removed drum and replaced parts listed. A bit tricky to keep small parts in place. However, masking tape helped. Best of all was the online diagram of how the parts were assembled. In addition, taking step by step phone pixs aided in replacing parts since there was some down time between diagnosis and installation.
From previous responses on this site. I just followed their lead. If I had not found these folks, and the responses, it would have been a nightmare. It looked like and I thought the dryer came apart from the back! But in reality it comes apart from the front!! Absolutely fantastic site and help. Fast shipping, I ordered on Wednesday before Labor Day, didn't expect the parts until the following Wednesday, but received the parts on Saturday morning, and had the dryer back running by Sunday AM. Never even ran out of clean clothes!!!!!
I removed the front access panel above the washer and removed the top dryer front panel. Then pulled out the drum and noticed the drum support ball stud had broken off, rather than order a new one, I welded it back on with a mig welder. I then replaced the drum support bearing and reinstalled the drum. I then installed the new belt before placing the front top panel in place. I removed the small vented panel on the back side to access the belt tensioner and fit the belt around the pulley and motor shaft. The whole job took less than an hour.
Rear plastic drum support bearing got worn making the shaft come in contact with the metal bearing bracket. That contact created a groove overtime and eventually snapped the shaft tip off.Cut power off. Remove all the screws from the front panel. (where the controls are) working from the bottom to the top. Insert putty knife between the dryer and the control panel and push down to release. Carefully disconnect the wire harness.You will find 2 screws at the bottom and 4 on top holding the dryer door. Remove and expose the drum. Remove the drive beltRemove the drum.You need a 5/16 nut drive to remove the bearing bracket and an extra set of hands to hold the support from the back.Re-install the parts. I used bearing grease to make it run smootherAttach the new shaft to the drum and reinstall the drum (its best done with help)Re install everything back again. And you are done
Customer responses / directions were great nothing to add - except no where does anyone mention "high temperature grease" for the Drum Support Bearing - only on the video is it mentioned numerous times. I honestly think it took longer to vacuum out all the lint then it did to do the repairs.
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