418119-1-S-Frigidaire-131553800         -Multi Rib Belt
418119-1-S-Frigidaire-131553800         -Multi Rib Belt 418119-2-S-Frigidaire-131553800         -Multi Rib Belt 418119-3-S-Frigidaire-131553800         -Multi Rib Belt http://www.partselect.com/Schematics/Frigidaire/Frigidaire_Thumb/PUFZUEGY.gif

Multi Rib Belt

PartSelect Number PS418119

This multi ribbed belt is flat and but has four ridges. This belt is 87-3/8 inches in length and is 1/4 inch wide.

This part works with the following brands: Frigidaire, Gibson, Kelvinator, Kenmore, Tappan & White-Westinghouse.

This part fixes the following symptoms:

  • Noisy.
  • Will not tumble.
  • Compare At

    $12.54
  • You Save

    $2.09
  • Your Price

    $10.45
In Stock
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Installation Instructions Provided by PartSelect customers like you.

Average Repair Rating: 2.8 / 5.0, 20 reviews What's this?
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504 of 509 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyReally Easy

Time to do repair:1- 2 hours

ToolsPliers, Screw drivers

CustomerMatthew from Portland, OR

Clothes getting scorch marks, drum noise

First and foremost, I read the repair reviews here at parts source and found that a) Other people had the same symptoms, b)following their repair tips made it super easy.
What I would add to previous reviews is to pull the front off or the little acces grill in back and check to see what kind of belt you have. According to the model #, It showed the wide flat belt when in fact I had the smaller ribbed belt. Glad I checked before ordering.
A few things that will make your life easier is once you have the old upper guide/seal removed, put down the glue then use several med sized plastic spring clamps to hold the seal in place while the glue sets up, (@ 20-30 min). Their cheap and you should have some around anyway. When replacing the seals I would go ahead and replace the belt too. It's cheap and if your machine is 5+ yrs old probably is worn. Total cost of repair was about $60 (inc shipping). Took about 1 hr 20 min total time. Most of that time was scrapping the old seal material/ glue off the dryer front. Actual disassembly and repair maybe 1/2 hour. Other little tip is the clips for the lid of dryer is to use a flat screwdriver and gently push straight in until it's compressed enough to release the lid, it will pop up when pushed in far enough. That one took me a while to figure out.
Thanks to Part Select for such a helpful site. My dryer is like new again.

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155 of 224 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyA Bit Difficult

Time to do repair:1- 2 hours

ToolsPliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set

CustomerDan from Portland, OR

Brown spots on clothing

I was getting brown spots on my clothing since I bought this used dryer. Went to partselect.com Fine with me, but not my wife and daughter! Anyway, after ruling out rust, I ended up here and found Randy's story - without it, I'd be lost! Basically, the felt seal crushes over time, and clothing gets caught in the gap stuck against this nasty old brown felt and leaves a mark.

Replacing the belt was a very good idea, though as mentioned, the drum support bearing is just a "nice to do" - not necessary, but it gives you the excuse to re-grease it (I used a thick Molly impregnated grease from my motorcycle).

The only other advice I can give is that I used a chisel to scrape off the old felt - it came off in very little time, and I didn't end up needing to really do much cleaning of the drum afterwards. Just use a sharp one you're not afraid to dull - it'll be metal-on-metal contact.

Using the spring-loaded clamps that you can get from the hardware store was also a huge help - it just needs to keep the upper glide stuck to the drum for the 30 minutes for the glue to cure - I used 6, but 3 would work. The bottom seal doesn't need them as the felt will tend to stick to the drum when the glue is applied.

You might not NEED to replace the lower seal, but I'd suggest it. It's cheap enough, and this job is "not fun" enough that it only adds a few minutes total - good insurance that you do a complete job.

You also might want to get some aluminum foil tape and re-tape your blower extension tube - mine was ripped off from moving from house to house over the years.

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38 of 42 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyEasy

Time to do repair:1- 2 hours

ToolsPliers, Screw drivers, Socket set

CustomerRandy from Anchorage, AK

Burn/rust marks on clothes

Like many others, i was suffering the problem of rust marks on clothes, which ruins them for good.

We have a Frigidaire Gallery dryer, gas, front loading stacked in top of the washer, which is about 7 or 8 years old.

Turns out the top felt seal was worn out, allowing clothes to get stuck between the drum and the door where they would get the rust colored stain. I think this is fairly common. It also "ate" zippers and buttons.

To open the dryer up, you first want to remove 2 screws at the bottom of the front panel, they are covered by little plastic plugs that pop out. Then, go in through the top- you have to pop the lid up from the front, and it swings up like a car hood. from the top, you have to reach in and undo a screw on each side that holds the front panel to the body of the dryer. it's a little tricky.

After those four screws are removed, the front panel is held on by pressure clips, which you can reach from the top and squeeze so they 'let go'. As those release, the front panel will fall outward with the bottom still attached- there are two small pieces of metal at the bottom that the panel sits in. So you lift the panel straight up to get them off those two guides/hooks, and it's clear.

Next you'll want to shop vac the heck out the whole dryer interior. Mine was caked with dust and lint.

Step two is felt replacement. you have to use some muscle to tear the felt off the top of the door opening, which will leave a bunch of ripped felt stuck to the high temp glue. That's where the wire brush and the Goof Off come in. That stuff worked like a charm to remove every last bit of felt and glue.

Once clean and dry, apply the glue that came with the felt guide, set the felt in place (with those plastic pieces facing up), and hold in place for a while. I used plastic clamps to hold the felt in place for about 30 minutes while the glue set.

For good measure, i also replaced the dryer belt and the plastic ball joint that the drum sits in, but i don't think that was necessary. The belt may be a good idea, and to do that you remove the belt by popping it off the little plastic wheel under the drum first, then it'll be loose and you can remove the belt and put a new one on. (This is also a little tricky, take it one step at a time.)

Then put it back together in reverse order and you'll be done with those rust marks.

(Mine is working great)

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16 of 16 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyA Bit Difficult

Time to do repair:More than 2 hours

ToolsPliers, Screw drivers, Socket set

CustomerKirby Grey from Beaufort, NC

Broken belt and bad idler pulley

I unplugged the power cord first of all. Then I pulled the dryer away from the wall so I could get behind it and take off the small vent cover that had two screws holding it. Then I reached in and grabbed the old, broken belt and pulled it out. I reached in and disconnected the idler pulley off of the metal stud that it slid onto and then disconnected the spring off of it. After receiving the new parts I took the new idler pulley and reattached the spring to it and then attached the metal housing to the metal stud where the slot was at. I went to the front of the dryer and took the screws out of the top of the door housing pried the door housing away from the top of the dryer about 8". Also I opened the door of the dryer where I took the new belt and put it around the dryer drum as far as I could get it towards the back. Then I went to the back of the dryer. I put my hand into the vent hole and grabbed ahold of the belt and pulled it all the way towards the back where the old belt used to ride on the dryer drum. Then I pulled all the slack and put the belt over on the pulley that was on the motor. After that I pulled the idler pulley back far enough to position the belt on the pulley and that caused tension on the belt. I then put the vent cover back in place on the back of the dryer and put the two screws in it to hold it. I went around to the front and closed the door on the dryer and put the front housing back into place. After that I put the screws into the top of the front housing. The job was complete so I plugged in the dryer to test it and everything worked fine.

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5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyEasy

Time to do repair:15 - 30 mins

ToolsScrew drivers

CustomerGreg from Nibley, UT

The dryer was squealing when running.

Based on all of the other posts, their explanations were right on, so I won't repeat it here. You could probably do this repair on your own, but it helps having someone to hold the drum while reattaching the screws. I replace the rear drum bearing assembly and the belt. I would recommend replacing the belt. I almost didn't, but I'm glad I did. Once I had it off, I could see the cracks in it.

When installing the new bearing, make sure that you pack it with the supplied grease. Be liberal with it. I used what left over grease I had to grease the idler puller bearings too.

The dryer works perfectly now, with no squealing. My experience with Parts Select was flawless. The shipping was extremely fast, and the parts were as described. Finding the correct parts was a snap thanks to their easy to use web site.

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