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See part 22 in the diagram
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Rear Outer Tub Assembly

PartSelect Number PS418071

The seal and bearing are included and are not sold separately.

This part works with the following brands: Frigidaire, Gibson, Kelvinator, Kenmore, Tappan & White-Westinghouse.

This part fixes the following symptoms:

  • Noisy.
  • Compare At

    $420.85
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    $70.14
  • Your Price

    $350.71
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Installation Instructions Provided by PartSelect customers like you.

Average Repair Rating: 1.7 / 5.0, 7 reviews What's this?
1-5 of 7
 

106 of 127 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyDifficult

Time to do repair:More than 2 hours

ToolsNutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set

CustomerScott from Riverview, FL

Drum making loud noise

Turned out drum brackets were corroded, so drum and shell-rear/brg and gasket needed replacing

1. Disconnect power and water lines
2. Remove rear and top panels
3. Remove control knobs, Assembly, soap dispenser, and Assembly cons frame/trim
4. Remove all screws from control panel mounting bracket (panel-cont mtg wing bend), disconnect easy wires to get to so you can flip it on it's edge when the time comes - no need to remove completely
5. Disconnect hoses running to shell-rear/brg
6. Remove the motor (motor-Sole) and belt
7. Place foam pad and/or jack with pad on it underneath shell (it's gonna be very heavy when you remove it - two men or a jack required)
8. Lift and remove the two spring/sleeves that support the shell.
9. Remove two level-shocks below shell or at a minimum remove one of the pins on each
10. Remove Spring boot from bellow
11. Lower and remove entire shell
12. Remove the weight, upper back from the rear shell and the counterweights from the front shell (can leave front weights if you want to, but probably easier to work with without them on. Note: be careful, these all crack/chip very easily)
13. Remove the screws that hold the rear shell to the front shell
14. Remove the pulley screw and pulley (may take a little wiggling or tapping with rubber mallet to loosen)
15. Separate the rear shell from front shell.
16. Remove the drum from the rear shell (may also require some wiggkling/tapping with rubber mallet)

Note: I did this from memory, so probably missed some steps - just use your parts manual to ensure you know what you're looking at and it will help you through the process.

Good luck. I figure I saved about $700 to $1200 since the estimated repair costs were so high, I would have simply had to buy a new washer.

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41 of 50 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyA Bit Difficult

Time to do repair:More than 2 hours

ToolsNutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set

CustomerKevin from Gilman, IA

Drum noise when spinning,timer knob broke

First of all the timer knob was very easy. My wife changed it in about two minutes. Simply spin the old off and the new on. Replacing the shell with the tub bearing is much more involved. Remove the rear cover, lower front panel and top. Remove belt from motor and then the motor itself. I used my cordless drill with a socket adapter and extensions to reach the screws. Disconnect the wiring and take the motor out of the machine. Disconnect the bellow type hose on bottom and small hose from the soap dispenser on top front shell. Support the drum on two 2 by 4's or 6's. Remove the top pins of the shock absorbers and lean back out of the way. The tub is now hanging on the top springs and is still held in place with the front boot. The boot needs to be seperated fron the washer with a single blade razor. This was the second time I did this repair so my boot came loose easily. With one person lifting the front and one in the rear lift the shell unit to remove the top springs. The bracket that keep the springs in place need to be removed prior to this.
Slide the tub unit out the back of washer. I placed it front down by supporting it on 2 by 4's. Remove the large rear pulley. This was tough as moisture had rusted it together. Apply pressure evenly around the pulley with small bars as you tap the slightly loosen bolt that hold the pulley on. This should work the pulley free. Using my cordless drill I removed all the bolts holding the rear and front tubs together and reassembled following the reverse of this procedure. One problem I now have is that the shaft of the stainless steel tub is worn and I still have noise. Again, this is my second replacement of this bearing each about 4 years apart. I will not do the repair again as price of tub and rear shell are to expensive. I was very satisfied after my first repair and encourage you to try before purchasing new.

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29 of 37 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyA Bit Difficult

Time to do repair:More than 2 hours

ToolsNutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set

CustomerMike from Clear Lake, MN

Rear tube brackets broke, made a banging sound in final spin

My repair went well except I removed the rubber seal between the tube shell and front door, BIG MISTAKE! Next time I will leave the front half of the tube shell in tack in the washer and just remove the rear half of the shell. If it wasn't for having to reinstall the rubber seal between the tube shell and the front door, the whole project could have been down in under two hours.

Food for thought next time! :-)

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23 of 26 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

  • Rear Outer Tub Assembly

Level of DifficultyDifficult

Time to do repair:More than 2 hours

ToolsPliers, Screw drivers, Socket set

CustomerMihaela from DAVENPORT, IA

Bearing/whining noise loudest during spin cycle

I first removed the top and rear panels to expose the shell, then removed belt and motor. I used a 2 jaw pulley puller to remove rear pulley, there are 5 spokes in the pulley so the puller did not fit well but I managed to hook on the pulley and hit the puller with a hammer and it came off. A better way would have been using a 5 jaw puller and installing the bolt a few threads in the drum shaft to protect the threads. I removed the rear concrete counter weight then removed the lower shock absorber pins at the shell and placed shocks to the side, this left the shell hanging on the springs. I decided to split the shell in the machine to avoid removing the front half of the shell, so I removed 20 bolts holding the shell halves together [difficult] and propped the front half of the shell up on wood blocks to release weight on springs. I then removed springs because they hook into both halves of the shell. This freed the rear half of the shell with the drum. I took the rear shell/drum assembly and placed the shell on 2 saw horses with the drum shaft vertical and the drum hanging freely with cardboard on the floor beneath to catch the drum, then installed an old bolt in the drum shaft to protect the shaft and threads and hit the old bolt with a hammer driving the drum shaft from bearings. Do not hit the shaft directly with a hammer, it will dammage the shaft and the pulley will not go back on. I cleaned corrosion from shaft and seal area with very fine sand paper and lubricated same with oil. The drum shaft slid easily into the new bearings on the new shell and I reassembled the machine in reverse order. Thank you to the others who wrote about this repair. The information was very helpfull.
Jim Swanson

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17 of 18 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

  • Rear Outer Tub Assembly

Level of DifficultyA Bit Difficult

Time to do repair:More than 2 hours

ToolsPliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set

CustomerLester from Olympia, WA

Noisey sound getting louder during spin cycle

Please note that I went online first to get an idea of what was involved.
I removed the back panel using a cordless drill w/attachment for the screws. Then the top. The directions that I received online was very helpful, but I didn't remove the whole tub assembly. I don't recommend doing it my way, but it can be done without removing the front or the whole tub assembly. After the motor and the big pulley was removed, I removed the bottom "shocks". I then took out every one of the cap screws that hold the 2 halves together. When that was done the two halves were loose. I then supported the bottom and took out the two springs. The back half came out quite easily then. It is then necessary to use a mallet to remove the inner drum from the bearing and back half of the tub. I cleaned and inspected the "spider" which was fine except it had old soap in it. Then using a dremel tool with a plastic brush I cleaned/polished the shaft of the inner tub. The new rear shell fit perfectly. Supporting the bottom of the front half of the tub, I then placed the back half assembly (with the pulley replaced on the shaft) in proximity and started the cap screws. It is weird how the 2 halves don't want to stay in correct alignment, but it can be done. After I got most of the top screws in, I used a ratchet wrench to tighten them to almost where the 2 halves were touching. That helped with the alignment process. When all (Ibelieve there are around 17 screws) were started and the 2 halves were aligned, I then started at the top and tightened to a loose fit. The second time around I tightened to semi tight. At this time I could put the springs back on (greatly improves ability to reach the bottom screws). The third time around I put them all tight. Every thing went back on without a problem. I attached water and power to the unit and ran a cycle with the top off and checked for leaks. That's it.

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