Wash Arm Bearing Ring

Screwed on a new one. The real story is getting the part. I called about noon one day and the part was dropped off at my house by FedEx the next day. Unbelievable. And the lady I talked to found the part number etc that I needed in a few minutes. Great service at a fair price.

Removed spray arm thumb nut. Removed spray arm. replaced worn and broken earings and re-assembled in reverse order. Would have done the repair a lot sooner if I had known that PartsSelect was just a few miles up the highway.

Removed spray bar by removing the plastic finger thumb screw and replace as shown by you web page. Very simple.

Removed the lower spray arm assembly thumb screw and lifted off the spray arm assembly. The lower seal had disintigrated - couldn't even find any pieces in the filter. After reassembly with the new seal and bearing I turned the spray arm by hand to ensure it was not binding. There was still was, what I would consider, some excessive wobble. I fashioned a shim washer out of some plastic from a Folgers coffee can lid and installed it on the thumbscrew threaded shaft and tightened it all down finger tight - it works very well and now, and no wobble.
I relaced the upper spray arm seal while I was doing the job (both the upper and lower seals are the same part #). I figured it would go out on me eventually, so I might as well replace it while I was doing the lower arm work. Kept the old upper arm seal as an emergency replacement.

Cleaned the filter screen of all debris (it is amazing what collects there over time). Cleaned the stainless tub with some spray Greased Lightning, ran the rinse cycle, and then put a few tablespoons of citric acid crystals in the soap dispenser and ran the dishwasher on NORMAL WASH with temperature boost.
Looks new inside; cleans the dishes, glasses and utensils well (no water spotting); and is nice and quite (like when it was new).

Completely removed lower wash arm and replaced bearing ring and seal.

First I removed the nut holding down the lower washarm in place. I then lifted up the lower washarm where it's held in place by the nut. I replaced the two new parts: The lower sprayarm seal that seats underneath the lower washarm and the washarm bearing ring that seats on the top of the lower washarm just underneath the nut. A schematic parts list diagram can be downloaded on the KitchenAid website. The wobbling motion of the lower washarm still seems to have the same amount of play as it had before I replaced the two parts. The lower washarm itself is in fine shape including the nut. I even attempted several other different ways to install the seal and bearing ring, yet the washarm still wobbles when I manually spin it. I called KitchenAid to find out if wobbling of the lower washarm was normal. Unfortunately, the person I spoke to didn't seem to me to knowledgable enough in this area.

I put the bearing ring on the washer arm and then screwed on the retainer nut.
Easy to order the needed parts

The repair was simple except for removing the thread portion of the old retainer nut from the lower housing. I had to remove the lower housing and separate the male threads of the old plastic nut from the female threads in the lower housing. That took 25 minutes since I did not want to ruin the female threads. Once removed, the new parts went into place easily.

First I removed the plastic bolt that holds the wash arm in place This exposed the upper ring that was worn out . I then lifted the arm off which exposed the larger ring. I replaced that ring, and then I put the arm back on and replaced the upper ring. I put the plastic bolt back in place and the repair was complete.-- Really Easy plus the dishwasher gets the dishes clean now

Removed upper basket and installed the arm. New snap in didn't require phillips screwdriver as old one and new support had split to insert. Replacing upper spray spinner dropped screw down around pump. This caused misery unassembling lower covers to receive Stainless
Steel, so magnet won't help ended up with mirror and hemistat to reach through large screen figures. So make sure to put towel or something in the bottom to catch parts.

I ordered the parts from parts select and was pleasantly suprised at the diagnostic diagrams, the home install video, and the quality and pricing of the parts. I had ordered just the top bearing a few years ago and did not realized the bottom seal was bad also. I found the seal pushed down around the pump housing which caused excessive ware on the pump housing top and the top of the wash arm because the gap in the lower seal expanded over 1/4 inch causing the wear on the top of the wash are. This job is normally very easy. Unscrew the thumb screw on top, remove old bearing, pull off the wash arm, remove old seal. Then just put new seal on top of pump (check for any burrs and remove with a fine grit emory sand paper) put on the wash arm, insert top bearing and tighten finger nut tight. I had excessive wear (due to age of unit and lower seal not in proper position), so I had to construct a spacer to take up some of the slack. I could not find a nylon washer(and you need nylon) in the stores ready made and did not want rubber or metal washers due to the adverse effects these would have on the new bearing. I improvised. I purchased a pack of 10 nylon wall anchor washers from Menards (after they said no nylon washers were available:) I used 2 inch O.D. washers with 1/4 inch I.D. which was a perfect center hole and used a drill to enlarge center from 1/4 inch to 1 inch I.D. (to fit around the finger nut screw stem), and removed all burrs. Unscrewed top finger nut and placed under nut on top of seal and the 1/8 inch width took up the slack. Problem solved.

replaced door seal,lower door seal and wash arm bearing ring-now it leaked when it was running.put old door seal back in and no leaks. all it needed was the wash arm bearing, also I cleaned out the inside of the water level float,which lowered the water level in the bottom of the dishwasher.

When water started splashing under the door and onto the floor, I noticed that the spray arm was wobbling. The retainer nut was broken, so I ordered it as well as the spray arm bearing ring. After I put them on, it still wobbled and splashed water. That is when I studied the diagram on the web page and noticed that my wash arm bearing ring was broken. So, order all 3 of these parts and your dishwasher will be repaired with no effort at all.

Unscrewed wing nut by hand and remover wash arm. Seals slipped in with out force.

Washer arm at the bottom was loose and flopping around and making waves when the bottom was full of water . This caused the dishwasher to appear to leak.
For the Washer Arm Bearing Ring, First I removed the bottom drawer. Then I unscrewed the retaining screw with my fingers. and lifted off the wash arm. I then removed and replaced the Wash Arm Bearing Ring which looks like a top hat with the top cut out. The rim of the " hat " on the one I removed had completely worn away and looked like a 3/4 inch cylinder It took a couple. of minutes to figure out which part I really had to replace. I then put back the wash arm and tightened the screw back, replaced the drawer and everythig worked perfectly.

For the Spray Arm Feed Tube, I first unscrewed the one screw holding the old tube in place. The old part was orginally in two parts. The new part is only one piece. I placed the new part in its place, and replaced the screw.