Upper Spray Arm Mount

PartSelect Number PS393037

This part is used to mount the spray arm to the upper dish rack.

This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.

This part fixes the following symptoms:

  • Not cleaning dishes properly.
  • Leaking.
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    $7.88
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    $1.31
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    $6.57
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Related Parts Additional or alternate parts to consider.

Part PhotoPart DescriptionPriceAvailability

Upper Spray Arm Mount

Part Number 734018

**Please note: This is a redesigned part. The top mounting clip and screw are no longer needed.

Order within the next 32 mins and your part ships today!
$6.06
In Stock

Installation Instructions Provided by PartSelect customers like you.

Average Repair Rating: 3.8 / 5.0, 16 reviews What's this?
1-5 of 16
 

14 of 17 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyA Bit Difficult

Time to do repair:1- 2 hours

ToolsScrew drivers

CustomerWesley from Lake Elmo, MN

Dishwasher not cleaning well... then leaking

This gets a little lengthy... but it explains where Cascade Dishwashing Powder came up with its brand name - it's been a cascade project.
I started by replacing the Middle Wash Arm Tube as the old tube developed leaks. As others have stated this is a new design but directly replaceable and easy to do.
This didn't solve the cleaning issue so reading the experiences of others on this site realized I also had broken parts in the Upper Spray Arm Assembly and the Upper Wash assembly. I replaced these and the dishes were suddenly much, much cleaner. These were very easily replaced.
I did find that I did not need the Mount for the upper spray arm (PS402277) as a redesign of the Upper Spray Arm Mounting bracket no longer required it - the bracket simply clipped in -the diagram was out of date.
Everything seemed to go well for about 3 loads when the dishwasher started leaking heavily out of the bottom of the door. I then noticed that the lower Wash Arm Bearing Ring and the Seal, Lower Spray Arm had disintegrated so I replaced those but this didn't affect the leaking. Someone had stated that if the lower wash arm assembly had too much 'wobble' that it cause 'waves' that would leak out the front door... mine had some wobble so I added a nylon washer from Ace Hardware that reduced wobble but still leaked.
I then replaced the Door Seal Kit - this was by far the most difficult part as the door needed to be removed and it was somewhat difficult - and it seemed apparent after we had removed the door that these parts weren't the problem but we replaced them anyway.
Also, someone else had noted that they had to attach the door seal (this is NOT the gasket that goes around the door opening) with a sealant - I had the same problem; the original seal fit tightly with friction but the new replacement required an adhesive - I used silicone. Still leaked.
From here on I can't guaratee any useful information: I took the strainer screen out of the bottom of the dishwasher and found one slightly loose screw holding what I believe is the 'pump outlet' according to the diagram. I had also read that the water fill is controlled not by the float at the bottom of the washer but by the electronics and it was suggested that I disconnect the DW from the power to 'reset' the timer, this I did and hit the 'Cancel' cycle a couple of times to make sure that all programs were cancelled. Whether any of this made a difference I have no idea - except that the dishwasher suddenly stopped leaking and hasn't leaked a drop for at least 20 washes. So I don't know, for sure, why it leaked or how I fixed it, but it's working and washing great now - except the tines on the lower rack are beginning to rust out and breaking off. The rack is pretty expensive but so far I've saved a lot of money and my family thinks I'm a dishwasher genius.

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6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyReally Easy

Time to do repair:15 - 30 mins

ToolsScrew drivers

CustomerElizabeth from Olathe, KS

The spray arm snapped off from the mounting bracket.

First of all, we were very impressed with the ease of finding the parts, the ordering, and the velocity in which the parts were shipped. We received them the next day. I had to remove one of the screws from the old kit, since the new one only came with one. I looked at the diagram on the website of the assembly, and also remembered what the assembly looked like before I took it apart. The first time I tried it, I could not get the spray arm to spin without hitting the dishwasher rack. Since I had ran out of time, I had to wait until the next day. Once I started, I realized that I had the mounting bracket on backwards. Once I turned it around, I tightened the screws, and it was done within 5 minutes.

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5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyReally Easy

Time to do repair:Less than 15 mins

ToolsScrew drivers

CustomerTimothy from Merritt Island, FL

Had a broken part

The parts I ordered came in right on time and were easily replaced. Thanks.

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5 of 8 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyEasy

Time to do repair:15 - 30 mins

ToolsScrew drivers

Customerpaul from wrentham, MA

Dishwasher arm would not turn

we removed the cracked pieces and attached the new spray arm. it took some time because the new arm looked different than the old,but we did it.... I was the one to order the parts needed i had never done this before my husband said it was broken and we needed to buy a new dishwasher ( he was less than thrilled about that) so i decided to do this myself and find the parts. my husband was very surprised that i did it.... AND SO WAS I... IF I CAN DO IT YOU CAN DO IT!

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3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyA Bit Difficult

Time to do repair:1- 2 hours

ToolsScrew drivers

CustomerGeorge from Wayside, NJ

The upper rotor mount broke off.

I screwed the rack mount to the spindle using
the extra screw I ordered. I removed the upper dishrack's front stops and slid the rack
out. I clamped the mount to the dishrack. I screwed the rotor to the spindle with the screw that came with the rotor kit. I slipped the feed tube mount over the end of the tube and clamped it on the dishrack. I replaced the rack in the slides and replaced the front stops.

I had a hard time driving the screws. The slots are crossed but do not seem to be standard Phillips. The screws were hard to drive into the holes in the hard plastic. Before I could drive the mount screw all the way, the slot was too stripped to use.

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