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PartSelect Number PS388034
Agitator directional cogs, otherwise known as dog ears, come in a package of four and are generally found in washers where the motor is connected directly to the washer. The agitator is what causes the thrusting motion in your washer. If you have noticed that your washer is not draining properly, is making unfamiliar noises, shaking, or is simply not washing properly, it could be due to faulty agitator directional cogs. They can be found by simply removing the softener dispenser and then removing the agitator cap. For this repair, you will need a 1/4 or a 3/8ths socket set, and needle nose pliers.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
The agitator is designed to spin the clothes during a wash cycle. If your washing machine will not agitate, spin, or shakes and/or is noisy, you may need to purchase the agitator repair kit. The agitator kit is most commonly used if the top part of the agitator is not moving correctly but the bottom is. This kit now includes all pieces shown in the photo plus the thrust spacer, inner cap seal, and washer. You may need agitator grease for this repair. As with any major appliance repair, be sure to disconnect power to the washing machine before beginning the job.
This is a genuine OEM thrust spacer for your washer, and is also commonly known as a retainer ring. The spacer is about 2.5 inches in diameter, is made of plastic, and is white in color. It is used in the agitator assembly of many direct drive washing machine models. The spacer is fitted between the agitator and the agitator auger to support it as it moves. This part is sold individually. Although it is not included in this part, you should have some dual-action agitator grease for the repair as well.
This kit contains one screw with rubber gasket and threaded sealant. The screw head is 7/16".
First I went to this site and read what everyone had to say on leaking pumps. After finding the model number, I looked at the parts list, and found what parts I thought I would need. First I shut off the water and unpluged the washer Replacing the water pump was very easy after reading what other people had done. I pulled the washer out from the wall about 18 inches and tilted back on a 45 degree angle. The pump was now in plain sight and helt in with two slide clamps. Using a pair of plyers I remover both clamps from both hoses on the pump. By pushing to the outside of the pump I was able to remove both of the slide clamps. This allows the pump to be lifted out and off the motor shaft. As my washer had just started leaking " about one week" the pump slid off the shaft easy. There was no rust on shaft. Pump shaft has a slot in it so the pump can only go on one way. By reversing the way I removed the pump I was able to slide the new pump back onto the shaft and slide the slip clamps back over the pump. Replacing both hoses and both clamps. Now pump was in place. I pulled the washer away from the wall and slid back into place. That took care of the pump. For the top side I removed the top part of the agitator by pulling up and removing the part that holds the softner. Under this was a piece of plastic that I was able to lift out. Under that was a 12MM bolt with a rubber washer. Using a scoket set I removed the bolt and washer. Lifting up on the agitator it came right out. Pulling on each end of the agitator I was able to pull it apart. Inside was a large plastic washer and agitator directional cogs all in one piece. This piece just lifts up and off. I replaced the old piece with the new on and slid the two agitator back togeather. Setting the agitator back into the washer and put the 12mm bold and rubber washer back on. Then I put the plastic back on and set the top softer cup back in place. Snapping in the bleach dispenser was very easy, just shap into place. Pluging the washer back in, and turning back on the water I ran the washer with no clothes in it so I could check for leaks and make sure everthing was working. Repairing both parts took about 30 minutes and now the washer is like new.
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I pulled the cap and took a socket wrench turned the stud agit off and removed the upper agitator. Than I assembled the new agitator with the new clogs put the agaiator back on and tightened the stud agit. Replaced new cap and done! Easy job!! Everything is working like new again. This whirlpool washer is 14 years old and still going strong!
unscrewed a bolt, pulled top agitator out and replaced parts and reinstalled.
Watched how to video and couldnt have been easier. Both repairs made in less than hour. Also doing work myself saved me a "load" of money by not having to call repair man.
Used your exploded view of the area to determine the problem-found the broken part and reassembled following the drawing. I felt like a pro after a test and kept my wife happy. [only lost a few days waiting for the parts which arrived as expected]
The coupling, made of plastic and rubber, on our Whirlpool washer gave out. Done the same repair nine years ago and knew what to do. Here is a short summery:1. unscrew the 2 screws that hold the control panel on top of the machine in place2. unscrew the screws that connect the housing with the back panel3. pop the 2 clips under the control panel to release the back panel4. with the back panel loose disconnect everythingthat is pushed, screwed or clamped on and take the back panel off (don't worry about remembering where things go, everything can go only one way together again)5. slightly lift the housing of the washer in the back to remove, that gives you access to the coupling in front of the machine6. I personally like to put the washer on its back and do the repair that way. However, if you want toleave it standing that is gets you there too.7. take the screws out of the brackets that hold the pump (the thing with the two hoses attached to it)in place and snap off the brackets; lift up the pump and put aside8. you can now remove the broken coupling 9. check for any fragments and clean off what needs to be cleaned 10. replace the coupling 11. reverse the order of steps 1 to 7; make sure that the all electrical connections and hoses are connected! 12. test
Removed agitator per diagram and determined what real problem was, and simply replaced parts. Timer was a no brainer...it didn't work and the replacement is a single unit repair item.
Remove dispenser and barrier cap by hand to access cam assembly. Unbolted agitator assembly and pulled up firmly.Able to access and replace cams. Before pulling out note how assembled and make sure to put back exactly the same. Singe person using this machine for 8 years. Poor design or quality of cams to fail so soon. Family of 5 would have been through this in a few years. For only 15 dollars definitely worthwhile repair. Parts arrived in days.
I removed the cover for the softener dispenser on the top of the agitator. Then reached in and removed the cover of the nut and washer which was very sticky and sealed with an o-ring. This took a bit of pressure. Then used a socket wrench with an extension to loosen the bolt and took the whole agitator out of the machine. Then I set the agitator on the floor and with a fine 12 inch long screw driver released the catches while turning and pulling the agitatior with my other hand and holding the lower agitatior on the floor with my feet. I then turned the upper part over and removed the cogs and holding mechanism. Then I reversed the process after replacing the cogs with the new part. 25 minutes total.
Looking at the Whirlpool web page for this model number it was easy to order 1. agitator directional cogs; 2. Inner cap seal and 3. washer for agitator bolt; After you remove agitator cap barrier you see agitator bolt that you need to remove (it's a little tricky) and the rest you do by intuition. I am not an repairman but looking at the whirlpool web for this model it was incredibly easy. Before repair the agitator upper part was not moving at all. Professional repair estimation was $100.
Very simple. Remove the fabric softener dispenser. Then remove the nut that is inside the agitator (requires a couple of extensions for your socket set). Remove the agitator by pulling up. I replaced the 'dog ears' or agitator and the upper agitator. It is easy to see where everything needs to go after you take it apart. The upper agitator had plastic gears that were stripped and wouldn't have worked by only replacing the directional cogs. Its easy, nothing to worry about.
I had given up on repairing the machine and placed order for a $650 washer. After returning to home from this shoping, I wanted to know possible problems with the current machine and came across a story on your web site attached to the Coupling parts description. It described the repair details. Encouraged I placed order for this $15 parts and repaired in an hour, saved the replacement machine cost. Thanks a lot
Half inch extension. Removed plastic set piece. Remove agitator cap. Remove ring remove worn cogs. Replaced new cogs Replace lock ring, back together. 10 minutes
There are 4 tabs that come from the main agitator body through the center & lock into the centerpiece that holds the directional cogs. They have a tab similar to a cable tie that can only be put on once. They need to be clipped before it will dissassemble & reassembly is difficult because they need to be timed to reattach the round center cog plate. Maybe cut off 2 of them & taper the other 2 them for easier reassembly.
I simply removed the bolt from the inside of the agitator and pull the whole the straight up. It came aloose pretty easily. I took the old clothes mover off and put the new one on. On the inside of the mover the dog ears and spacer easily comes out. I removed the spacer and replaced the dogs ears. I put everything back together the way it was when I took it apart. It works as good as it did when I first got it.
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