388034-1-S-Whirlpool-80040             -Agitator Directional Cogs
388034-1-S-Whirlpool-80040             -Agitator Directional Cogs http://www.partselect.com/Schematics/Whirlpool/MDKTWLBF.gif

Agitator Directional Cogs

PartSelect Number PS388034

These agitator directional cogs are commonly referred to as dog ears. They come four to a package and are usually used with direct drive washing machines.

This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.

This part fixes the following symptoms:

  • Will not agitate.
  • Noisy.
  • Pumps but will not spin.
  • Spins slowly.
  • Shakes and moves.
  • Not cleaning dishes properly.
  • Compare At

    $4.43
  • You Save

    $.74
  • Your Price

    $3.69
In Stock
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Videos For installing this part.

Related Parts Additional or alternate parts to consider.

Part PhotoPart DescriptionPriceAvailability

Agitator Repair Kit

Part Number 334650

The agitator kit is most commonly used if the top part of the agitator is not moving correctly but the bottom is. This kit now includes all pieces shown in photo plus the thrust spacer, inner cap seal and agitator bolt washer. May need agitator grease for repair.

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$12.68
In Stock

Thrust Spacer

Part Number 334562

This white thrust spacer is made of plastic and is also commonly referred to as a retainer ring. It is used in the agitator assembly of many direct drive washing machine models. This is the retaining ring for inside of agitator. May need agitator grease for repair.

Order within the next 5 hrs and your part ships today!
$2.40
In Stock

Agitator Bolt

Part Number 348478

This kit contains one screw with rubber gasket and threaded sealant. The screw head is 7/16".

$4.45
On Order

Installation Instructions Provided by PartSelect customers like you.

Average Repair Rating: 4.2 / 5.0, 236 reviews What's this?
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600 of 619 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Agitator Directional Cogs
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Screw drivers, Socket set
Customer: mike from Kent, WA

Washer wouldn't agitate

First pry off the cap of the agitator. Then using a socket remove the bolt that holds the plastic cup in place. Remove this cup by prying it loose from the two tabs that hold it in place. Once this cup is removed you can get to the broken cogs.
Slip the new cogs into the underside of the cup, and slide the cup back down in the agitator housing using the slots on the side for a guide. (You may want to remove the entire agitator and assemble everything upside down, then flip it all back over to mount, so the cogs don't fall out).
Tighten the bolt, snap the cap back in place on top of the agitator and your'e done. Easy repair.

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518 of 526 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: Less than 15 mins
Tools: Socket set
Customer: Craig from Polk City, FL

Washer not agitating

On top of the agitator is a flat cap that is held in place by the friction of an o-ring, there are no fasteners. I would imagine one could get under the lip with a small screwdriver or butter knife to pop it off but I chose simply using my fingernails so as to not disfigure the cap. Under the cap you will find the head of the only bolt that holds the assembly together it is a 7/16 head and because it is in a 4" deep well your will need a 6" extension for your ratchet. Once the bolt is out the top of the agitator, the assembly with the cogs removes by hand. Set the assembly upside down on the counter, slide the black plastic ring off, pull the cogs out with your fingertips, install the new cogs put a new black ring on and set the assembly back in the agitator. Reinstall bolt. As the bolt is down in a tube, you cannot set it in place with your fingers and it will fall out of the socket. To hold the bolt in the socket during positioning you can either put a gob of Vaseline on the bolt head to hold it in the socket or form a small piece of paper over the bolt head and set it into the socket, the friction of the paper will hold the bolt into the socket. Took me less then 10 minutes, good luck

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197 of 223 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Agitator Directional Cogs
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: Less than 15 mins
Tools: Socket set
Customer: dennis from new stanton, PA

Top half of agitator did not move during wash cycle

pull off softner dispenser, pop off agitator cap by inserting straight screw driver into small slot, remove bolt inside agitator with socket wrench and long extension, pull agitator straight up off shaft, place agitator on floor, with feet holding bottom half pull top half apart from bottom half by pulling straight up, note direction of old cogs remove and replace with new, reassemble

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88 of 95 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 1- 2 hours
Tools: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Customer: Greg from Hemet, CA

Gearcase oil leak

To replace gearcase seals, first disconnect the power cord. Turn off water supply and remove water inlet hoses at washer (safety first). You may want to have a bucket available to catch water that will drain out of the hot/cold and drain hoses. Next, remove top agitator cap, seal and (7/16”) bolt (see diagrams on PartSelect). This will allow the top agitator and cogs to be removed. Grab the bottom agitator and rock it back and forth until it can be removed.
Suggestion: now is a good time to remove and clean the old soap and junk from drain holes in the top agitator and any junk that may be under the lower agitator.
Lay the washer on its right side. You will now have access to the motor, pump, hoses clutch and gearcase. Place a couple of 2X4X(5?) blocks under the tub to support it. Remove the electrical connector from the motor (this is clipped into place) and the two wires that go to the capacitor on the motor.(TIP: don’t put your finger across these terminals, SHOCK HAZARD) Remove the hose clamps and hoses, the two screws (5/16”) on each strap that holds the motor in place, you may have to use a screw driver to pop the straps off the motor. Remove the motor and pump by pushing the tub to the left and move the motor and pump to the right to clear the coupling. If you have not replaced the drive coupling, now would be a good time to order and replace. With the motor out of the way, remove the three (½”) bolts holding the gearcase to the chassis and pull to remove gearcase and shaft. If you are only replacing the drive shaft seal, you do not need to open the gearcase case. Stand the gearcase so the input shaft is facing up, or what fluid is left in the gearcase will come out. One question I see a lot is how do you remove the seal. One, buy a real expensive tool that you will only use once, or take a screwdriver with about a ¼” blade, stick it between the shaft and the seal, gently leverage the seal out while going around the shaft. After the seal is removed, oil can be added thru the seal hole. Understand that different oils are designed for different applications. That said, I used 90 weight gear oil from the local auto parts store, you can add it thru the seal hole. To install the seal, lightly tape it into the seal cavity, then use a socket that is close to the diameter of the seal and gently drive it in.
If you have to replace the top case seal, it will require you to take the gearcase apart. The advantage of this is, if you have an older washer, you can clean out the contaminated oil and sludge and check for wear on the parts, and replace as needed from PartSelect. Here’s a suggestion: if you have a digital camera, take pictures, this will really help when you put things back together.
Now look at the diagram that is provide by PartSelect, remove the clutch, remove the bolts on the top cover, try to keep it level or you may have a mess on your hands. Lift the cover up over the shaft. I found the top case seal very stubborn to remove. Using a small screwdriver, get between the case and the seal and gently pry it out. Replace the seal, again, by using a socket and gently taping into place. There is also a seal at the top of the drive gear that you may want to replace to keep the oil from going up into the clutch. Now its time to clean all of the years of gunk out of the case and gears. When you are ready, fill the bottom half of the gearcase with oil, about half a quart. To seal the case, I used a ultra blue silicone gasket sealer in a tube from my local auto parts store or sealant can be purchased from PartSelect. I used it on the top half of the gearcase case. Slide the top case over the shaft and evenly tighten the bolts. Reinstall the clutch to the gearcase shaft and install into the washer. I found that the motor bearings needed to be lubed, so I used white lithium grease in an aerosol can. Reinstall motor and don’t forget to put the electrical plug back into the motor and the wires that go to the capacitor and pump h

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45 of 53 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Agitator Directional Cogs
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: Less than 15 mins
Tools: Screw drivers, Socket set
Customer: Michael from Murray, KY

Agitator was not working

Step 1) Take off top cap with a flat head screw driver.

2) unscrew bolt (may need extension as it may be deep in the agitator.)

3) Take upper agitator off.

4) remove clog retainer and clogs.

5) insert new clogs and re-assemble.

total time 10 to 15 min.

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