383724-1-S-Whirlpool-691366            -Idler Pulley Assembly
383724-1-S-Whirlpool-691366            -Idler Pulley Assembly 383724-2-S-Whirlpool-691366            -Idler Pulley Assembly 383724-3-S-Whirlpool-691366            -Idler Pulley Assembly http://www.partselect.com/Schematics/Whirlpool/Whirlpool_Thumb/DHKQOZSM.gif

Idler Pulley Assembly

PartSelect Number PS383724

This part provides the tension required for a multi-ribbed belt. It also serves to help the belt to rotate the drum. This arm is what attaches to the idler pulley wheel.

This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.

This part fixes the following symptoms:

  • Will not tumble.
  • Noisy.
  • Will Not Start.
  • Takes too long to dry.
  • Compare At

    $11.82
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    $1.97
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    $9.85
In Stock
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Videos For installing this part.

Related Parts Additional or alternate parts to consider.

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Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4"

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This dryer drum belt has four ridges, three grooves and is 1/4" wide.

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Drum Support Rollers

Part Number 347627

These two drum support rollers are no longer available for individual sale. Available in a package of two and it is recommended that you replace both rollers at once. These two rollers come with four tri-rings and one palnut.

$12.32
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Maintenance Kit

Part Number 373087

NOTE: This kit is for 29" wide dryers built 1965 or later. Please verify model # before ordering as may not work for all models. This kit comes with one multi-rib belt, two drum support rollers, one idler pulley, four tri-rings, and one clip. This part can be used with both gas and electric dryers.

$31.46
In Stock

Installation Instructions Provided by PartSelect customers like you.

Average Repair Rating: 3.3 / 5.0, 52 reviews What's this?
1-5 of 52
 

668 of 707 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyEasy

Time to do repair:30 - 60 mins

ToolsScrew drivers, Socket set

CustomerRay from Denton, TX

Dryer tub belt broke

Removed the two screws that attatch the lent channel to the top of the dryer, then lifted the top of the dryer by pushing in on the two locking tabs located at the front , left and right , corners of the dryer top with a small flat head screw driver. The top of the dryer will fold back out of the way. At this point I removed the two 1/4 inch screws that are located on the inside of the dryer front left and right corners that hold the front panel/door to the two side panels. Now I was able to lift the front panel up and set it to the side. The bottom of the front panel that contains the dryer door that I just removed was held on the bottom by two clips that slide into slots on the front panel and did not require any removal to disconnect the bottom of the front panel, just pull up on the front panel. Since the tub was held in place by floating on a seal at the back of the dryer and a seal on the front panel , which I just removed the tub is now free floating except for the two alignment roller wheels at the bottom of the tub. It is easier if you lay the dryer on its back at this point with front of the tub pointing up. I pulled the tub out and cleaned the years of built up lent and removed all the pieces of the old , destroyed, belt. Note, the belt tentioner is located at the front of the motor which on the bottom right hand side. If your belt is broke like mine the tensioner may/will fall to the back of the dryer when you tilt it back, but do not worry. Once the dryer was cleaned up I put the tub back in place , still on its back and made sure the two alignment rollers were in place and rolled freely when the tub was turned by hand. Another note, my original belt tensioner did not have a rolling wheel that the belt rode on , but was a semi-circle smooth surface that the belt remained in constant friction with when the dyer was running, so I made sure the replacement tensioner I ordered with my new belt did have a rolling wheel that the belt would ride on, which I believe will reduce wear and extend the belt life. The new belt came with a diagram of the belt and tensioner routing which was helpful. Note: do not take the tensioner wheel off/apart when trying to route the belt. Follow the instructions routing diagram. The tensioner is held in palce by inserting the bottom back half into the slot in the bottom floor of the dryer making sure it is aligned with the belt pully on the shaft of the dryer motor. The dryer is still on its back side. Now, it was easier for me to route the belt around the center of the tub, following the marks from the original belt, and hold in in place in a few spots with masking tape and then route it thru the tensioner and onto the front pully of the motor. Make sure you have the grooves of the belt against the tub and the grooves are aligned with the pully on the motor. Now you can remove the masking tape that was holding the belt around the tub and spin the tub by hand watching the belt making sure it is not in a bind and is traveling around the motor pully , tensioner and tub freely. Make sure the tub is still sealed on the back side wall. As you turn the tub by hand you can adjust the belt by hand so that is following the original marks around the tub left by the orignal belt. Also double check the two alingment rollers and make sure they are spinning and on track. Now put the front panel with the door on by sliding it onto the two clips that are one the bottom at each side and put the two screws in that hold the front panel to the two side panels. Now stand the dryer back up and spin the tub by hand again making sure it has a good seal on the back side and on the front panel. Pull the top back down and put the two screws in that hold the lent channle to the top. I am not sure when the belt started failing on my dryer, but was amazed at how quiet it runs now. Guess I was use to the extra noise made by a dryer that was about to die. This was a cheap and easy repair and glad I did it myself.

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79 of 83 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyEasy

Time to do repair:30 - 60 mins

ToolsNutdriver, Socket set

CustomerCHRISTOPHER from MOUNT AIRY, MD

Squeaky dryer

My wife had been complaing about excessive noise from our 25 year old dryer so after DISCONNECTING the dryer from the wall outlet I popped the top panel loose @ the front with a screw driver @ each front corner @ took a look. No cause was visible so I removed the rear cover & still nothing so I laid the dryer on it's back to remove the front cover. First the 2 wires to the door switch were disconnected then the 2 screws @ the top corners that hold the front panel to the side panels were removed. The front panel then slid up & lifted off exposing the front of the drum, belt & support pulleys. Upon inspection I found the bottom support pulley sleeve bearing to have worn out. Both pulleys were replaced because they only come as a pair now along with the tensioner pulley (idler pulley), the belt & the rear lip seal on the drum since it had a 4" section missing from the edge @ one point (all of these were the original components). Replacing the rear drum seal took the most time because the old adhesive had to be removed. I did this first so the glue could set while I installed the new pulleys & belt. By the time they were installed, the glue had set enough & I could continue the re-assembly.
We now have a 25 year old dryer that sounds like it's new & @ a fraction of the cost

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47 of 54 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyEasy

Time to do repair:1- 2 hours

ToolsScrew drivers, Socket set

CustomerEdward from Andover, NJ

Dryer was sqeaking loudly when running

I Looked on internet sites for this type of problem.
Most sites said the support rollers could cause this.
I found your site PartSelect and with help of your diagrams of the machine ordered the parts I thought were needed plus other parts that might cause the problem.
With machine torn down I replaced the rollers.
I had also ordered the main drive belt and idler assembly with the rollers and these also needed replacement. It is a good idea to order other suspect parts when doing this type of repair since you can return the parts not needed.
Your return policy is great.

Edward Brennan

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21 of 26 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyReally Easy

Time to do repair:15 - 30 mins

ToolsNutdriver, Screw drivers

CustomerJames from West Haven, CT

Busted belt & pulley

I bought a belt from a store in my area- What a mistake...I found this site and read all the stories on how easy it was and how PartSelect.com had the parts in stock and had easy instructions...I put the idler pulley in place, put the belt in place (all from instructions included) and put the dryer back together (which was easy). I actually did it alone. I would recommend this company to anyone in need of their parts and help!

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14 of 21 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyEasy

Time to do repair:30 - 60 mins

ToolsNutdriver, Screw drivers

CustomerChristopher from bellerose, NY

Motor would not turn

1) Removed top of dryer
2) removed belt and drum
3) removed front of dryer
4) popped clips holding down motor
5) unscrewed rear fan from motor (by exposing and holding fan)
6) changed motor
7) changed support rollers and idler pully
8) reassemled dryer

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