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PartSelect Number PS373025
This flat style igniter comes with a wire harness connector. This part ignites the gas within the dryer. Bracket is NOT included.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
If everything else is working ( tumbler and timer ) except for the heating. Your first bet would be checking your flat style igniter. Mine was cracked, something that I wouldnt have seen unless I had taken it off. Because of the crack no current was being passing through, therefore the igniter wasnt heating to its amber color. Since there wasnt any current the gas valve was doing its job by not allowing any gas to blow out. Dont worry about turning the gas off just disconnect your elecrical outlet. Remove whole front dryer panel by taking 2 front bottom screws out (philip screw driver). Dont pull to hard because there are two wires connected to the panel and dryer that you will have to disconnect. When you get to the igniter disconnect wire plug and use your socket set to loosen the single srew on the igniter, gently wiggle it out by just handling the white ceramic part of the piece, and replace new one in. Just remember to be careful since the dark part of the igniter that heats up is real brittle.
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I noticed that the igniter would glow white hot for about 5 to 10 seconds, but would only ignite every once in a while. I decided that it was probably the gas valve that was bad. I removed the wires to the igniter and valve, and removed the two screws that secured the valve to the frame. I accidentally bumped the igniter as I removed the valve from the dryer - it broke! The igniter is extremely delicate, be careful not to touch it. When the new valve and igniter came in, I swapped some of the mounting hardware and installed the valve and igniter. I reattached the wires. The dryer fired up immediately - it was an easy fix.
This was the first time I ever attempted such a repair on an appliance, but it was fairly easy once I figured out how to take the front of the dryer off! I was almost certain that the igniter was the problem was it didn't glow like it did before. On this particular LP Gas dryer from Maytag there is a little service door on the front near the floor. It is almost impossible to get your arm in there plus still have room to shine light in! I took off the two screws at an angle down near the floor and the whole front came off. I used a mini socket wrench to disconnect the igniter. I didn't have to remove the screw as the part slips on over the screw, then you just tighten the screw, connect the cable and it worked perfectly! Thanks PartSelect! As for the lint filter...the original has been broken for probably close to 10 years. It was just a matter of slipping the new one in.
I am a seventy year old recent widow, I have never repaired any appliance before. This was the first time I had ever seen the inside mechanisms of a dryer. I read the reviews on your site and followed the instructions of other do-it-yourselfers. However I could not locate the screws to remove the front of dryer. I would like to know if this dryer can be accessed through back of dryer, for future references. This is a 20 year old dryer, very well made, and I am reluctant to give it up. I think the job would have been much quicker and easier if the dryer front could be opened, as I would have also liked to check the main burner, valve, and belts, etc. for wear and if all was working efficently, as well as do a thorough cleaning. I did locate the igniter part through small door on bottom of dryer, I loosened the screw on igniter, unplugged small plug on wire harness and removed part. Ordered new igniter part and it arrived within less than three days, excellent service, as I live on the west coast. I replaced new igniter, turned on the gas, plugged in electrical cord, checked gas valve connection on back of dryer to make sure it was secure, turned on dryer and presto, heat, works just like new so far. A $25 part sure beats a $200 service repair or the cost of a new dryer.The repair job required about 45 minutes total time, most of that time spent trying to remove front of dryer. If a seventy year old woman beginner can do this, it should be a snap for most anyone else.
To be more precise, the clothes weren't getting dry and there was some sort of vibration sound coming out of the dryer. I removed the front panel (by removing the 4 front screws (2 in the door and 2 on the opposite side). I then ran the dryer while inspecting the innards. I notice that the igniter was lighting but was failing to start the gas flame. I could smell a little gas during this period so I know that gas was available but was not getting released in the correct amount. This told me that the gas valve we malfunctioning. I remove the gas valve and broke the igniter (it's fragile so be careful). Some other contributer did the same thing :(I replace both the igniter and gas valve and presto... it was fixed. My wife was impressed and I looked good. I guess that's all that matters :)
Unplug the dryer and remove the front panel (two screws at bottom of the panel), being careful of the door switch wires attached to the front panel. Using an ohm meter, I checked the ignitor for continuity and found it was open (should be 50-100 ohms). Make sure to check the solenoids on the gas valve. When the igniter goes bad, it will usually burn out the valve 1 solenoid boost coil (the one with 3 terminals), which was the case with my dryer. The solenoid coils are held in by a bracket with two screws (series 01 dryer) and are easy to remove and replace. Be careful replacing the igniter as the heating element is VERY fragile. Take the time to vacuum out all of the accumulated lint and dust inside the dryer while the front panel is removed, including the lint trap and duct. New igniter and boost/hold solenoid fixed the problem.
The ignitor is easy to determine if it is defective. When you start the dryer and the ignitor does not glow , it is bad.The replacement involves unpluging the dryer, opening the control access door ,the removal of one screw, unplug the bad ignitor, plug in the new ignitor, reinstall the one retaining screw, plug the dryer back in, check for proper opperation of the ignitor, and close the close the control access door.Very easy
First I removed the front panel on the dryer. While the dyer was running, I noticed the igniter did not turn its normal amber color and ignite the gas supply. I then disconnected the wire to the igniter and removed the screw holding the igniter in place. Next I replaced the igniter, tightened the screw and reconnected the wire. Finally, I replaced the front panel. This is a relatively simple repair.
a lady from church couldn't get her dry to dry. older maytag gas dryer. built really good. took off the front panel, tested the different thermostats and found the one that was broken. replaced the igniterwhile I was at it. hooked up the exhaust and fired her up. Make sure all of the lint is vac'ed out of the system. thats what built up and cooked the thermostat.
My dryer stopped producing heat and everything else was working fine. I did some research on this site and others had the similar problem pointing to the ignitor going bad. I needed to determine which ignitor fit my dryer. What I learned is that some of the parts come with a series number and you need to know which one matches your serial number. My serial number started with 40 and I had a choice of buying the part for a series 10 or 60 series. In my case I needed to buy the 10 series since you either go with the same number as your serial number or lower, never higher. When the part came in I removed the dryer door by removing the 2 screws. I then removed the 2 screws on the opposite side of the door. Once the 4 screws were removed I was able to take the front cover off. The ignitor was on the right side and easy to get to. I unplugged the ignitor and used my socket set to remove the bolt. Once removed I vacuumed the lint in the dryer and installed the new ignitor carefully not touching the black area of the part. I put the front cover back on, put the door in place and put all 4 screws back in place. I started the dryer and it was fixed! This was an easy job to repair that saved me money.
First I unplugged the dryer. I shut off the gas line to the dryer. I opened the access door on the lower front of the dryer. I illuminated the interior of the dryer with a small flashlight that was mounted on two legs with magnets on the end to allow the light to be specifically directed. I took few digital pictures of the electrical connections to the dryer gas valve and the various sensors attached to the unit. I shut off the gas line valve to which the dryer gas valve was attached. I removed the two screws holding the dryer gas valve an lifted the unit out of the dryer. I vacuumed the inside of the dryer with an electric vacuum and also vacuumed the lint and dust off the gas valve I took out of the dryer. The flat style igniter was mounted on the front of the gas value. I removed two screws and took off the old flat style igniter. I reattached the new flat style igniter (carefully holding it by the ceramic mounting area to avoid breaking the igniter itself). I reinserted the gas valve into the dryer and reattached the two screws holding the gas valve into the dryer. I reattached the gas valve to the gas line in the dryer. I reattached the electrical connectors to the gas line and the sensors in the dryer. I turned the gas line in the house to the dryer back on. I plugged in the dryer and started it. No ignition.! I unplugged the dryer and reached in through the access door. I angled the flashlight to each of the sensors attached to the gas valve and the dryer electrical harness and pushed each one to make sure the electrical contacts were solid. When I checked the flame sensor ( a little box with a window mounted over a rectangle cut in the wall of the cylinder in which the flame burns when the gas is shooting out of the valve) the lower wire was unattached to the sensor. (Because the sensor sits on the side of the cylinder pointing towards the interior of the dryer its connections at the sensor was not visible. I bought a new flame sensor. I detached the old flame sensor from its connector, removed the screw mounting it to the cylinder and lifted it out of the tab holding it to the cylinder. I installed the new flame sensor by putting its tab in the slot for the tab in the cylinder and reattached the screw holding the flame sensor to the cylinder. I reconnected the electrical connection from the flame sensor to the dryer electrical harness. I plugged in the dryer. I turned the dryer on and got ignition of the dryer heater flame. Repair complete!
After taking one last look through the access port prior to ripping the back off the dryer in order to access the heat exchanger fuse, I noticed I had inadvertantly un-plugged the gas solenoid. I reapplied the plugs to the solenoid and, voila, I had flame. I am thankful to know I have a source in case I encounter other appliance problems, though. This one was a no-brainer but the next one might be more difficult. Thank you.
Thank you very much for your prompt service. This was so cool... On Monday night my wife told me the dryer was not heating. I did a basic diagnosis, checked the internet for parts and lowest price and found your site. I ordered the part I thought I may need and 2 days later the part arrived and the dryer is working again. Way to go, PartSelect!
Just unscrew the front of the dryer the Igniter kit is on the right side of dryer unscrew one bolt then replace with new Igniter kit very easy fix make sure to unplug dryer first that way you don't get a shock by touching exposed wires before putting front panel back on clean out any lint that may be in or around bottom of dryer.
shut off gas to dryer took apart the old and installed the new gas valve and glow coil.
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