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PartSelect Number PS358631
This part is a solenoid-operated switch located at the bottom of the refrigerator. When the water inlet valve is turned on, water is released from the supply line through the water valve and into the compact icemaker mold. The kit includes the mounting hardware and bracket plastic tubing fittings. The retaining nut must be cut off the plastic water line and gently pushed into the new valve. To remove, press down on the ring that the tube slides into. Refer to the installation instructions for further guidance. Please note: the manufacturer has redesigned this part and it can appear different than the original. It has a new quick connection.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
The ice maker had been slowly dying and one day just stopped making ice. No water was getting to the trays. I read that this could be caused by a failure of the valve, even though the continuity test indicated that the solenoid was okay.I ordered the part Friday afternoon. It was delivered Saturday. I did the repair in 10 minutes.I pulled the fridge away from the wall.I unplugged the fridge. I closed the water supply valve.I unscrewed the two mounting screws using a flat head screwdriver.I pulled the old valve out from refrigerator.Using an adjustable wrench I detached the water supply from the valve. I detached the hose leading to the ice maker from the valve.I pulled the electrical connectors from the connectors on the valve.I attached the hoses to the new valve, attached the electrical connector, screwed the new valve in its place, opened the water supply, plugged the fridge back in, checked for leaks, and waited for a few hours. My ice maker is working better than it has in at least two years.
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Turned off water supply and unplugged appliance. Removed lower panel on back of refrigerator with 1/4 " nutdriver. Then removed supply line, and line to icemaker. removed valve from back panel and replaced with new valve. wrapped water connections with teflon tape, turned on supply line, checked for leaks, everything o.k..Replaced back panel and in 45 minutes had first drop of ice. Job requires moderate mechanical ability and minimum tools. Saved a PANT load of money by doing it myself. VERY satisfied with Partselect.com
I was not sure what was causing the problem, I thought at first it was low water pressure causing the hollow ice cubes. After some trial and error testing I figured a likely cause could be the water valve in the ice maker itself. I replaced that part rather easily using the existing fasteners in about 15 or 20 minutes. The ice maker has been working flawlessly since the repair.
Confirmed that the solenoid controlled water valve (Part # PS358631) between the water source and the back of ice maker was defective. I did this by removing the valve and plastic hose from the back of the refrigerator and pointed the end that went into the icemaker towards the sink. I applied 110 volts to the valve and noted that no water was getting through. Replacing the valve was a snap.
Removed two screws holding valve, removed two 1/4" water lines. disconnected wire clip from old valve. Installed new valve, connecting water and electrical with ease. Absolutely Simple!
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires...) Then I put the new valve in, put the cover back on the refridgerator and was done. total time 15 minutes. My wife says I'm the man.
Removed old valve first, found part # on it.Entered part # into search box on computer.It came up with the right replacement part the first time!!!Ordered part, it came in sooner than I thought it would.I attached the supply line, pushed in the plastic outlet hose, connected the power line, and attached it to the refrigerator frame. We had a full container of ice the next morning.It couldn't of had been easier.
Ice make was still working but no water coming in to make ice . Pulled refrigerator back and found water valve at bottom of refrig close to the floor. I disconnected water line and electric plug - went to whirlpool web site - no help at all to confusing - found partselect and compaired picture of old valve with picture of new valve . When I got it in mail it took 30 min to install - working fine now hint - mark top of electric plug so you install correctly
First pull out frig and unplug. Shut off water valve. I just had to remove two screws to disconnect unit from bottom rear corner of frig. Pull element out just a few inches and disconnect the plug that feeds it electric. Disconnect water hose and reattach to new unit. Reconnect electric plug and reinstall in back of frig, securing with two screws. I have an older appliance, so I had to jury rig a bit when reattaching new unit by drilling two new holes for mounting. Also, I had to buy a new water hose because the old part would not accept the standard female end of the hose to connect to. Home Depot has the standard icemaker hoses with two female ends. These two glitches would probably not apply to a newer appliance, but anyway, it's cranking out the ice just fine now! Sure I saved alot of money, even with the extra $10 investment for the hose.
I used this part on a little, under-counter U-line ice maker that is the best little ice maker in the world. The single solenoid part from U-line cost more than twice as much as the generic GE one I ordered from you. It arrived in only 2 days and I was able to just remove the inlet and outlet line from the old solenoid and unscrew the bracket to remove it. I used the included bracket and one screw affix the new one to the ice maker, then just pushed on the inlet and outlet lines, tightened them on, plugged it back in and In about 20 minutes from start to finish, it was back in business, cranking out ice really quick as it was before. Could not imagine summertime in Texas without my U-line,,,Thank you!!!
Turn off the water source and unplug freezer. Remove copper tube and then remove valve from back of refrigerator. Disconnect plastic tube and power connection. Mark power connection plug top with a "T", this reminder helps with the new valve. Plug power and plastic tube into new valve and screw assembly back into refrigerator. Using a wrench, connect copper tube into valve. Restore water source and plug back in in freezer. Within a couple hours, ice production was back. Like the other repair stories (that helped me), this job was very easy.
This was very easy and pretty fast to do and its working great...all for $40 bucks ! you can do this...trust me!
Replaced the water valve. I knew that the ice maker was working by watching the movement. It was not getting water to it, s I figured it was the electric water valve and sure enough, that fixed the problem.
Replaced the valve and cleaned all the coils at the same time. The ice maker is spewing out ice. Wife is happy again.
Ordered new single outlet water valve, received in less than two days. Removed old one, and the repair pretty much feel in place. Instructions were there as a backup. ........ Just curious if the connection from the water source to the valve outlet connection could b a quick connect just the like the water line going directly to the ice maker. Gregg in PA.
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