Shock Absorber Kit

removed 2 screws and removed top access cover. removed 2 screws and removed front access cover. removed 4 retaining pins (one with nammer and punch because it was stuck) connected lower ends of new shocks with plastic pins, extended each shock to slip fit and connected upper ends to wash tub mounts. Reinstalled panels. I wish I could say that it all went well from there but......when the shocks broke, apparently the hit the motor took was enough to cause an electronic failure of the speed cycle control chip. Now Im waiting for that part.

Remove power
Remove water connections
Pull out washer to have sufficient room to access the back and the top.
Removed the top panel (4 screws at top- back)
Removed the back panel (a lot of screws)
Removed small metal retainer strip on top edge over broken spring
Removed broken spring, hung top of new one.
Pulled up tub to as I stretched out the spring to mount spring to tub
From the back, unplug and remove 2 crews holding the electronic motor control unit from lower left

For both shocks:
This was the most "difficult" part - locate the 2 plastic retainer pins holding the shock, locate the tooth (or tab) holding the pin in place and push the tab in (I had to use some leverage - its stiff plastic covered in grease - a spare screwdriver handle helps to push the tab down).

After pins are removed, shock just pulls out (weight of the tub handled by the suspension springs).

Replace with new shocks (1 pack has a pair), replace pins.

Reinstall motor control unit.

Reassemble frame. reattach water supply lines.

I had to plug in the washer, activate a cycle, then unplug/plug in the washer again.

It helps to have a screwdriver attachment for a variable speed drill to handle all of the screws.

All told - about 45 minutes, most of this spent on removing the pins.

Take off the back, one of the shock absorbers was broken, it was very obvious. Looked up part at partselect.com, very easy, ordered part, it came in 2 days, the repair took another 15 minutes. There were directions inside the repair part to tell you a trick to get the old one off. It worked like a charm. Why spend $200-300 or more on a repair on a $500 washer when you can do the entire job for about $30 and get it back working in 2 days!! No brainer.

Pulled off front panel and found broken shocks. Ordered from Parts Select and replaced within 15 minutes. It was a little tricky replacing as they came out due to poor access from the rear. Make sure to regrease palstic pins and she is running like new.

Once I figured out that the shocks were broken it was very easy to fix. Remove back panel first. Then remove the control box on bottom left corner to gain access to the left shock. Pinch the locking mechanism on the plastic locker bolts and remove the four bolts from both shocks. Replace with new shocks and replace control box and back panel. It probably took more time moving the washer to where I could work on it then it did to fix it. Works like new.

Vibration/Shock: remove front cover, to remove the shocks depress the tab on the locking pins and push out. Install new shocks and pin in reverse order.

Pump: Disconect power, remove front cover, slowly remove clamp from discharge side of pump and use a sponge or rag to collect water. About one pint will remain in the upper hose. Remove the upper hose after draining. Unplug the power supply to the pump and remove two screws securing the pump to the floor of the washer. Install the new pump and conect wire and hoses.

The illustarated parts break down on the Part select web site was an awesome resource. It identified the exact part that was damaged by part number and comprehensive drawing. The part was ordered utilizing the drawings and on my doorstep within two working days, regular ground shipping. The securing pins were removed from the damaged shock absorber by driving them out with a screw driver (used in place of a drift punch) and a rubber mallet. The new shock absorber was placed in position and the securing pins were installed easily by hand and were securely in place when an auditable click was heard from the securing pin when fully engaged. The shock absorber kit came with an additional securing pin in case one of the original pins were damaged. The replacement part was of superior quality to the original.

disconnected fm water supply and electrical ckt
move washer fm beneath dryer (stacking config.)
removed back, found 2 broken shocks (round type) and 1 broken spring (left looking from back). checked online for parts and found your site. ordered and waited a few days.

back on task, removed controls (lower left corner) to reach pins, removed front lower panel, removed pins and broken remains of both shocks. removed broken spring. left remaining spring to keep tub suspended.

back on task when parts arrived. installed shocks --note that it was not clear that there are 2 shocks in each package (so i order 2 pkgs and now have 2 extra shocks --for next time it breaks away ;-)

crafted a 'hanger' with 10ga wire and 2x4 to permit tub to be supported and/or suspended without unduly stressing new components. attached both shocks being careful to follow instructions about alternating direction and orientation in relation to plastic bushing on the shock mounting points. removed remaining spring and used short length of 10ga wire to pull spring into position and lock.

re-assembled back and front cover... re-attached control circuit. moved closer to water and electrical supply and tested through 2 cycles --no problems found.

put back into position and leveled and locked.

works fine now.

First of all unplug your washer from the power supply and turn off the hot and cold water supply. I removed the front lower panel of the washing machine with a philips head screwdriver. Next I removed the plastic pins holding the right side shock obsorber. This was a little difficult because the upper pin is in a tight location and there's not much room to push the pin out. I just used the flat end of a screwdriver and slid it in place. The pins take some effort to push out, mainly because you have to hold the little tab on the pin down while you push it out. The replacement shock seems to be better constructed. I just put a little Vaseline on the new pins to help them slide through the metal sleeves on the ends of the shock. You also have to pay attention to which way the sleeves go into the shock so you don't push them out when you install the shock.

Replacing the pump was pretty easy. The pump is right there in front fastened to the bottom plate with two philips head screws. Have some towels ready, because if there's water in the drum or hoses it's coming out when you remove the hoses. Take a pair of pliers, or channel locks and open the hose clamp on the big inlet line, coming from the drum and slide it back so you can remove the hose. Then do the same for the outlet hose on the left side of the pump. It's easier to do this before you take the pump off the bottom plate. Once the hoses are off, remove the pump with a philips head screwdriver. While you have the pump out of the way, feel around inside the square reservior at the bottm of the big inlet hose to make sure there's nothing in there that might get stuck in the pump. A large bobby pin had made it's way into my pump and damaged it. It had fallen back down in that reservior, so at first I couldn't understand why the pump wasn't working, til I found it in there. Insatllation of the new pump is just reverse of disassembly. After that turn your water supply back on and plug in power. You might want to cycle the machine before you put the front cover back on to check for leaks. Good luck!

Removed the the two screws holding access panel on the bottom front. Shocks use two plastic retaining pins on each shock. Used a screwdriver to push down on the locking tab on the plastic retaining pin ant pushed out. One of the pins is behind the water pump and a bit harder to access. I used a socket with an extension to push it out. installed new shocks with old pins and was back in business. Shocks go in a certain way so be sure to look at the instructions that come with the replacement shocks. Note: the replacment shocks that came don't look anything like the originals. Originals looked more like an automotive shock. Also as both shocks were broken, I ordered two, not knowing that they come two to a package. When you order that is not clear. So now I have an extra set, which might not be bad to have on hand. Kit also comes with an extra pin in case you break one.

I followed the instalation instructions provided with new parts. Getting the mounting pins out was relatively easy However, the shock on the right, behind the pump, was a bit more difficult to remove than the one on the left. I took the rubber drain off the pump in order to get at the pin behind the pump. The new replacement shocks came with the plastic bushings inserted in the shocks in alternate directions. The original pins were all inserted into the bracket / shocks from the rear so when I installed the new shocks I reinserted one bushing on each shock so they we both oriented in the same direction. The instruction says to be sure the mounting pin is pressed from the side with the busing collar. It seemed strange the shocks came that way, with no mention of switching them. The most difficult part on the installation was pushing the pins back through the bracket and shock since there was no easy way to push the pins in from the rear. I used a large channel locks on the left side, but the right side was more difficult with all of the obstructions. I finally was able to push in place with my bare hands but was very difficult. Sorry to say the new shocks did not cure the vibration at all. I was very careful to make sure the machine is level. I'm not sure if there is a cure other than replacing the machine.

-Unplug machine and remove all water connections
-Remove back panel with power phillips screwdriver
-Removed some rectangular circuit box in the way of getting to one shock absorber (3 screws)
-Remove old shock absorbers with 1/2 inch socket (suggested in accompanying directions)- this took 2 minutes
-inserted new shocks as directed...this was the most difficult part, but used a hammer to bang into place.
-reinsert and screw down circuit box (or whatever it was)
-reattach back panel
-reestablish water hose connections
-plugged in and was in business
-had ordered a washer/dryer set for $1700 (at my parent's urging) and now can tell Sears to go pound sand!

The repair itself was simple; it was the original design of the washer itself that made it time-consuming, because of the tight spaces involved. Basically, all you have to do is remove 2 plastic pins, take out the broken part, make sure you have the new part facing the right way, and put the 2 plastic pins back in. Should take 2 minutes if there are not other machine parts in the way!

Had to replace one Spring on top of the tub and both shock absorbers. Anyone with even a limited amount of mechanical ability could handle this repair. Save yourself about $300 in repair cost and replace these items yourself. Spring and Shocks absorber kit cost less than $60 with shipping.

Just look at the diagram that comes with the parts, it's a piece of cake. The most difficult part is replacing the spring, she is stiff. You will need to take the top of the machine off, which is super easy, and remove the metal keeper on top of the frame rail. Get someone to help you as you will need to lift the tub and slip the spring over the frame rail.

The shocks are the easiest part of the repair, and should take less than five mins. to replace.

As others have mentioned, it was pretty straight forward although a bit finicky to get into the tight spots to press out the pins. The little piece of 1x4 block helped press the pins back in. For the right side shock, I had to undo the large rubber hose at the bottom of the drum and also had to remove the sheet metal shield in the back to allow clearance for the pin to come out. There's only 2 screws holding it in so again, not too hard to do.