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PartSelect Number PS3508101
This kit is used for front load washers and includes 2 dual-stage shock absorbers, 1 spare shock mounting pin and 4 locking nuts. These shock absorbers keep the washer from vigorous shaking during it's cycles.
This part works with the following brands: Frigidaire, Gibson, Kelvinator, Kenmore, Tappan & White-Westinghouse.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
removed front panel and used deep socket to remove pins that hold shocks. front left shock took most of the time because of hoses and a unit in the back that needed to be released to be able to remove the pin on the bottom. the right shock was a piece of cake to replace. used a hammer to pull the pins into place (i did not use it to tap on them ) . lots of bloddy fingers from sharp edges.
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Removed lower access panel. Removed top of washer. Attached spring and lifted tub into place. Removed and replaced both vibration/shock absorbers (most difficult part, not easily accessible).
I did my best to stretch the belt out and as I wrapped it around the pulley one hand was preventing the belt from slipping off and the other hand had the screwdriver to use as Leverage to stretch and slip the belt on the other side of the pulley. One thing that I saw but didn't try was to use zip ties to temporarily hold the belt in place so it didn't slip off that may have helped.
put in new shock absorbers one was broke but there is something wrong yet as it still shakes and makes the noise, think it is in the back between the two baskets have not had anyone that can take it apart yet for me,
Removed spring retainer straps from top of springs. Propped up tub with blocks and a wedge. Lifted out each spring and replaced. Re-attached spring retainer straps. Removed pins from shock absorbers (old/broken ones). These break due to moving washer w/out installing original foam blocks and support screws or due to age and fatigue. Pins have a retainer that must be depressed as you pull or push them out. may need to spin back and forth with pliers as you pull them. Bottom right pin won't come out w/out a hassle. Cut it in pieces with dykes and used spare pushed in from the FRONT (not the rear, as it was originally installed). Found leak was not fixed by getting the drum back up to proper height. Found bolt on tub had broken the bottom of the soap dispenser "tray". This is a 50.00 part. Made a patch from the bottom. Roughed up plastic and used silicone adhesive. After it had adhered filled from top with more silicone. Allowed 24 hrs to dry. Washer is as good as new.
The front lower access panel pops off with two Philips head screws. From there, the white pins holding the hold broken shock absorbers can be removed by pressing their locking tab down and pushing them free of the bushing.After pulling the old, broken items out, the new ones are reinstalled the same way: place the metal end towards the drum, push the white pin through the bushing (only one way is correct) and you're almost done. Reinstall the front panel and get back to having a quiet washing machine!
The instructions that came with the new shock absorbers were very detailed and walked me through the repair step by step. The new shock absorbers are much better quality than the old tube style shocks.
I replaced both shock absorbers that hold the drum on a front loading washer. They both snapped at the base and have since been replaced by a different style shock absorber. There are 2 pins that hold each part in place. I took 5 minutes to replace 3 pins and about an hour to replace the last one, which was in a very tight spot. After much sweating and swearing, I managed to get the pin back in. Was it worth it? ABSOLUTELY! Partsselect.com is a dream for straightforward repairs. This is the second repair I have done on this machine (which is less than 5 years old) and both repairs have cost less than $30.
If you have a broken shock (or two) there's a strong possibility that the failure caused, or was caused by, a failure of the "spider" that attaches the inner drum to the "drive shaft". If this is the case, the problem is likely terminal for your washer... unless you purchased a rip-off service contract. The parts will cost upwards of $250 and the bearings and seals that must be dealt with cry-out for a service tech and the associated labor cost. Between the poor engineering and lousy service, I will no longer be purchasing Sears appliances. I did *not* get my money's worth from this washer and Sears has not made good.
What was not mentioned in the instructions was that the right side pin can not be removed very easilly since there is a large metal box that is mounted directly behind the pin which keeps it from being removed without great effort and potential. I was able to remove the pin without destroying it but it would never go back in the same way because it is impossable to line up the schock, bushing and hole so I installed the pin from the front side and I will take my chances as to how long it lasts. machine seems to be running fine. Thanks
Removed front panel, used socket to compress lock tab on plastic pins holding shocks. Still taks a little effort to get them out. The one behind a plastic drain canister is a proble as there doesn't seem to be a good method for moving that canister. I think that's why the spare pin is provided.Sadly, my case was one of the lower percentage where the problem is in the rear bearing area. The shocks were, the top support springs were good but the rear of the washer drum was shot. Opted to replace with new washer rather than go through the much longer repair with the almost $300 in parts.
Removed front access panel, observed broken tub shock. Ordered replacement parts, included in the promptly delivered package are simple instructions. Excellent results, improved shock design, washer runs quieter.
I followed the great instructions provided on the site and had the old broken struts out in no time. The new ones went in without a hitch and the time it took me to unscrew and rescrew in the back of the machine was longer than the time it took me to replace the broken parts.
when I replaced the other one it was broken also but you wouldn't know it by just looking at it. The only problem being able to get the new one back on I put it on pushing from the front, I can only imagine the ttrouble I'll have get it out again I'll probable have to cut it out with somthing because it's right up against the circiut board housing. other wise not a bad job. But I think my age has somthing to do with it.Not much strength.
replaced as instructed.
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